
(ilass.TTj60 
Book ^ W'O 

(X>PirKJGHT DEPOSIT 






THE BOYCMFTSMAN 



THE BOY 
CMFcTSMAN 

Practical andProfitable Ideas 
for a Bqyi Leisure Hour^ 

BY 

ANeelyHall 

A\^tli more tlian fotirlitinire J ill-iistr a- 
lions ty the aiitlior andNorma-nPH all 




BOSTON 

LEEANDSHEPARD 



LiSRARY of OONSRESsf 

mH 1 1905 I 
Jouyriiirii uiiry | 



L 



CQ^Y e/ 



Copyright, 1905, by Lothrop, Lee & Shepard Company. 

Published, August, 1905, 



A!/ rights reserved. 



The Boy Craftsman. 



Nortooali ^xt<i><& 

J. S. Gushing & Co. — Berwick & Smith Co. 

Norwood, Mass., U.S.A. 



Cdorh bard — play bard 

— Theodore Roosevelt. 



NOTE TO THE READER 

The boy of to-day is ever on the lookout for new ideas which 
can be adopted for his work and recreation, schemes which are 
practical and which are thoroughly up-to-date. They must be 
helpful in suggesting ways of earning money, as well as enter- 
taining, for what boy of the present day does not feel the need 
of such suggestions to aid him in raising the funds necessary 
to carry on his work ? 

In none of the books pubhshed on boy's handicraft has the 
question entered into consideration as to how he is to obtain 
the means with which to buy such materials and apparatus as 
the work requires. A boy should not expect to draw upon his 
father's purse for everything his fancy desires. It is important 
that he learn to earn his spending money, for in doing so he 
becomes independent and more careful as to how he invests 
it. Having had the experience of working, the average boy 
learns to so appreciate the value of hard-earned money that 
it is pretty certain he will spend it only for something with 
which he can earn more or which will prove useful to him in 
his work and play. 

'* The Boy Craftsman" has been undertaken with a view of 
helping boys with their problems of earning money, as well as 
furnishing recreative and entertaining work, and to this end the 
first portion has been devoted to suggestions for the carrying 
on of a number of small business enterprises, and the second 



iv NOTE TO THE READER 

and third parts to outdoor and indoor pastimes for all seasons 
of the year. 

In '' Profitable Pastimes " a boy will find work that will make 
easy the matter of earning money with which to buy such 
materials as he needs to carry out the suggestions offered in 
the book, while the practical knowledge acquired and the 
handiness developed in pursuing the several lines of work is 
certain to be helpful to him in later years. 

The tools and apparatus used are such as a boy of average 
ability can procure with a little husthng, and can be purchased 
singly, or two or three at a time, as his money permits. The 
materials at hand can be used in thousands of different ways, 
and in preparing the chapters this has been taken into con- 
sideration, these odds and ends being utilized whenever it has 
been possible to do so. 

Carpenter work is something with which every boy must 
familiarize himself to a certain extent in order to do anything 
in the line of construction, so the fitting up of a workshop and 
the proper handling of tools have been described in the first 
two chapters, in view of making it a simple matter to perform 
the work embodied in the rest of the book. 

Technical terms and phrases have been eliminated from the 
text as far as possible, and where it has been deemed necessary 
to include them, to describe certain operations for which a boy 
should know the proper terms or expressions, they have gen- 
erally been explained in the first chapter in which they occur. 
To simplify the matter of referring to the definitions of these, 
they have been arranged alphabetically in Chapter XXIX. 

Some of the material contained in this book was originally 
written by the author in the form of magazine articles for TJie 
American Boy and TJie Boys' World, and thanks are due the 



NOTE TO THE READER v 

publishers, The Sprague Publishing Company and The David 
C. Cook Publishing Company, for permission to reprint it. 
This material has been revised and enlarged upon, and is 
presented with new and additional illustrations. 

The author is always glad to hear from his young readers, 
and to be of assistance to them in answering any questions 
they wish to ask regarding their work. 

A. N. H. 

Chicago, Illinois, 
May 31, 1905. 



CONT^ 


i>E N T S 


WPHAbL '-<_— ^ 1/-/-—^ 


^ 



PART I 

PROFITABLE PASTIMES 
CHAPTER I 

PAGE 

A Boy's Workshop 3 

Value of a Knowledge of Carpenter Work — Location of Shop 

— A Solid Work-bench — The Vise — Bench-stops — Carpenter's 
Horses — A Bench-hook — A Mitre-box — A Sand-paper Block — 
A Strop — A Plumb — Purchasing Tools — Tool-cabinets — Racks 
for Tools — A Carpenter's Carrying-box — A Nail-box — Receptacles 
for Supplies — Workshop Clothes — Care of Oily Rags and Waste. 

CHAPTER H 

The Proper Handling of Tools 20 

Care of Tools — The Cross-cut Saw and Rip-saw — Sawing — 
The Back-saw, Compass-saw, and Gig-saw — Kerfs — The Jack- 
plane, Fore-plane, and Smoothing-plane — Planing — Testing Work 

— The Firmer-chisel — Paring — The Framing-chisel — Chamfering 
and Bevelling — The Gouge — The Draw-knife — Boring — An 
Automatic-drill — Hatchet and Hammer — Driving Nails — With- 
drawing Nails — Toe-nailing — Blind-nailing — Clinching — The 
Nail-set — Nails — Screw-driver for Bit-stock — Screws — The 
Countersink. 



CONTENTS 



Sharpening Tools 37 

Grinding Cliisels, Gouges, Draw-knives, Knives and Hatchets — 
The Washita Oil-stone — Whetting — Stropping — Sharpening 
Saws. 

Laying out Work 42 

Use of the Try-square — Gauging with Rule and Pencil — A 
Marking-gauge — A Mitred Try-square — The Bevel — To Divide 
a Board. 

CHAPTER HI 

The Boy about the House 47 

Opportunities for Work — Outfit for Jobbing — The Hinge-lock 

— Clothes-line Reel — A Broom and Dust-pan Rack — The Fly- 
killer — An Ash-sifter — A Bread-board — A Plate-rack 

CHAPTER IV 

Suggestions for a Boy's Room 57 

Simple and Inexpensive Furnishings — What the Room should 
Contain — A Cosey-corner — Pennants — Small Posters — Picture- 
frames — A Writing-desk — Another Style of Desk — An Ink-stand 
and Pen-tray — A Couch — A Window-seat — A Curio-cabinet — 
Book-shelves — A Blacking-case — A Towel-rack. 

CHAPTER V 

How TO MAKE A DOLL-HOUSE 7I 

Store Doll-houses — Profit from making Doll-houses — The Mate- 
rials Required — The Base — The Floors — Partitions and Walls 

— Stairways — Balustrades — Front and Rear Steps — The Gambrel 
Roof — The Gable-ends — The Doors and Windows — Outside 
Trimmings — Casters — The Chimneys — A Mantel and Fire-place 

— Andirons — The Interior Woodwork — Painting the House. 

CHAPTER VI 

Another Doll-house and a Stable 91 

Packing-cases and Other Material — The Floor Plans — The Par- 
titions and Walls — The Elevator-shaft — The Windows —The 
Roof — The Chimney — An Elevator — The Gable-ends — The 
Stairway — A Balustrade — Other Details. 



CONTENTS ix 



How TO MAKE THE STABLE lOO 

Dimensions of Stable — The First Story — The Roof — The 
Gable-ends — The Stall Partitions and Feed-troughs — Windows 

— Ladder to Hay-loft — Feed-hoist — The Drop-front — A Stable 
Door — Painting. 

CHAPTER VII 

Furnishing the Doll-house 105 

The Walls and Ceiling — Hardwood Floors — Carpets and Rugs 

— Window-shades and Curtains — Portieres — Pictures — A Cosey- 
corner — Buying Furnishings. 

CHAPTER VIII 

Doll-furniture ^°9 

Metal Furniture — Miniature Mission Furniture — Material — 
Drawing the Patterns — The Chairs — The Settee — Tables — A 
Side-board— A Mirror — The Grandfather's Clock — Kitchen Fur- 
niture—The Beds — The Dresser — A Wash-stand — Finishing. 

Other Cigar-box Furniture 122 

A Folding-bed — The Dresser — A Wardrobe. 



126 



CHAPTER IX 

A Boy's Printing-shop 

Location of Printing-shop — Equipment — Selection of Type — 
Type-cases — A Rack for Type-cases — A Composing-stick — A 
Composing-rule — Justifying — A Home-made Galley — " Pieing " 

— Proofs — The Imposing-stone — The Chase — Furniture — 
Locking-up a Form— Distribution — The Tympan — Overlaying — 
Underlaying — Gauge-pins — Inking the Press — Care of Rollers 

— Neatness — Receptacles for Materials — Care of Waste Paper 
and Oily Rags. 

CHAPTER X 

Amateur Journalism ^ • .142 

A Collection of Amateur Papers — Amateur Press Associations — 
Some Methods of Printing Papers — Examples of Amateur Papers 

— The Character of a Paper — Naming — The Frequency of Publi- 
cation—The Size of Page — A Stereotyped Heading — The Choice 
of Type — A Cover— Binding— Advertisements — The Advertisers' 
Dummy — Second-class Matter. 



CONTENTS 



CHAPTER XI 

PAGE 

A Boy's Dark-room 153 

Profit in Photography — The Necessary Equipment — The Bed- 
room as a Dark-room — The Bath-room as a Dark-room — Another 
Scheme for a Dark-room — A Work-table — Running Water — A 
Water-tank — A Sink — A Washing-box — A Drying-rack — An- 
other Scheme for a Drying-rack — A Cabinet — A Ruby-Hght — A 
Home-made Lantern — A Plate-lifter — Classifying and Preserving 
Negatives — Manila Envelopes — A Negative-case. 

CHAPTER XII 

A Winter Enterprise 169 

An Opportunity for Making Money — A Snow Plough — A 
Scraper — A Snow Shovel. 



PART II 

OUTDOOR PASTIMES 

CHAPTER XIII 

A Back-yard Club-house 175 

How Some Boys Built a Club-house — A Mysterious Letter — 
Drawing the Plan of a Club-house — The Material — Fishing Studs 

— Staking out the Building — The Studs — Boarding up the Sides 

— The Roof — The Floor — A Window-sash — A Batten Door — 
Wooden Latch — Calking up Cracks. 

CHAPTER XIV 

How TO BUILD A LOG-CABIN 1 86 

The Pioneer Cabin — The Cabin of To-day — Selection of a Site 
^Design and Size — The Material — Staking out the Cabin — The 
Lock-joint — The Sills — Construction of Roof — Ridge Boards — 
A Log Chimney and Fire-place — Calking — A Mud Floor — The 
Windows — The Cabin Door — Wooden Hinges — Wooden Latch 

— The Latch-string — A Mantel-shelf — Provision Cupboard — 
Rustic Seats — Bunks — A Camp-table — A Few Pointers about 
Camping — Utensils — Other Necessities — Provisions. 



CONTENTS xi 



CHAPTER XV 

PAGE 

How TO BUILD A CANVAS CaNOE 201 

Canoeing as a Sport — Popularity of Canvas Canoes— Materials 

— The Bow and Stern Pieces — The Keelson — The Mould — Put- 
ting the Framework Together — The Gunwales — The Ribbands 

— The Deck Beams — The Ridge Pieces — The Deck Braces — 
The Cock-pit — The Canvas Covering — The Deck — Painting — 
The Cock-pit Coaming — The Keel — The Bilge-keels — Outside 
Gunwales — A Seat — How to mend Punctures — A Single Paddle. 



CHAPTER XVI 

Home-made Traps 218 

Trapping as a Pastime — The City Boy and his Country Cousin 

— The Figure-four Trap — A Box Trap — The Dead Fall — The 
Sieve Trap — The Coop Trap — A Rabbit Snare — A Twitch-up — 
The Professional Trapper — Wolves and Coyotes — Story of a 
Trapped Indian. 

CHAPTER XVII 

Toy Guns, Targets, and Bows and Arrows 229 

Ancient War Engines — New Idea for a Cross-bow — Shingle 
Arrows — A Toy Pistol — Cardboard Bullets — A Shot-gun — An 
Elastic Sling — A Boy's Barrel-hoop Target — A Simpler Target — 
How Points are Scored — The Bow and Arrow — Length of Bow 
— The Bow-string — The Arrow-shafts — Preparing Arrow-heads — 
Feathering — A Quiver — Proper Position for Shooting with Bow 

— The Indian's Bow — How his Arrows were made and Feathered 

— The Preparation of his Arrow-heads. 



CHAPTER XVIII 

An Outdoor Gymnasium . . . . . . " . • • 243 

Location for Gymnasium — A Horizontal Bar — Tumbling Mat 
— Parallel Bars — The Punching-bag Platform — A Pair of Jump 
Standards — A Vaulting Pole — A Spring-board — Hurdles — A 
Running Track — Method of Starting for Short Sprints — Mark for 
Broad Jumping— An Athletic Club — Athletic Meets. 



xii CONTENTS 

CHAPTER XIX 

PAGE 

A Back-yard Circus 255 

The Ancient Roman Circus — The Circus of To-day — How Sev- 
eral Boys gave a Circus — Preparing the Yard for a Circus — Mak- 
ing the Ring — Good Circus Seats — A Tent — Decorating the Tent 

— A Ticket Office — A Turnstile — The Side Show — Cages for 
Side Show — Animated Animals — The Elephant — The Giraffe — 
The Two-legged Wild Horse — The Wild Man of Borneo — A 
Monkey's Make-up — The Ring Master — The Clown's Suit — The 
Attendants — Ideas for a Performance — A Slapper — Looping the 
Hoop on a Giraffe — A Chariot — Parades — The Advertising Signs. 

CHAPTER XX 

Suggestions for Fourth of July 272 

The First Fourth of July Celebration — Pyrotechnics Costly and 
Dangerous to Make — The Making of Harmless and Inexpensive 
Fireworks — A Fire-cracker Cannon — To fire the Cannon — A 
Fire-cracker Mortar — Mimic Battles with Paper Soldiers — Another 
Toy Cannon — To fire the Cannon — Firing Fireworks from Kites 

— Firing a Pack of Fire-crackers from a Kite — Shooting Nigger- 
chasers — Japanese Lanterns hung from Kite-strings — A Shooting- 
torch — A Final Set-piece. 

CHAPTER XXI 

Halloween 281 

Ancient Superstitions and Origin of Halloween — A Magazine 
Bean-blower — A New Style of Tick-tack — A Clockwork Tick- 
tack — The Goblin-man — The Disappearing Rope. 

CHAPTER XXII 

A Back-yard Toboggan-slide 291 

One Advantage of a Small Slide — Location — Length — The 
Platform — Framework — Railing around Platform — A Ladder — 
Making a Swift Slide — A Home-made Sled — The Runners — 
Reenforcing the Runners. 



CONTENTS 

PART III 

INDOOR PASTIMES 

CHAPTER XXIII 
A Miniature Theatre 

An Interesting Entertainment — A Picture-frame Proscenium — 
The Stage Framework — The Gridiron — The Stage Floor— The 
Drop-curtain — Lighting the Theatre — The Footlights — Flood- 
lights — Colored Lights — Spotlights — Admission Tickets and 
Programmes. 

CHAPTER XXIV 
Scenery, Properties, and Mechanical Effects .... 
Materials for Scenery— An Ocean Scene — Additional Waves — 
Frames for Drops — A Mid-ocean Scene — A Seashore Scene — A 
Field Scene — The Trees — A Blockhouse Scene — Pine Boughs 
for Trees and Shrubbery — Moss for Mounds and Hills — Rustic 
Bridges — A Pond or Lake — A Street Scene — An Interior — A 
War Drama — Paper Soldiers- Scheme for Marching Soldiers — 
Separate Standards — A Jointed Figure — Stage Properties — 
Tents — An Indian Teepee — Battleships — Trains and Wagons 
— Mechanical Effects — Thunder — Rain — Wind — Lightning— 
The Roar of Cannon. 

CHAPTER XXV 

Making a Toy Railway 

The Trolley-line — Supports for Trolley-line — Power for Operat- 
ing Railway — Tracks -The Cars - A Gondola Car — A Street 
Car— Other Cars — Operation of Railway — A Station. 

CHAPTER XXVI 

Clockwork Automobiles 

Procuring a Set of Clockworks — An Automobile Touring-car — 
The Frame — Preparation of Clockworks — The Belt — Testing the 
Machine- The Cardboard Sides- Wheels -Mud-guards- Lamps 
— The Steering-wheel — A Horn — The Brake — The Chauffeur — 



Xlll 



303 



311 



331 



343 



xiv CONTENTS 

PAGE 

Painting the Machine — An Automobile Delivery Wagon — The 
Cardboard Sides — The Wheels — Other Portions — Painting the 
Wagon — A Clockwork Railway. 

CHAPTER XXVII 

Work to do with a Knife 356 

How Boots were Marked in a Penitentiary — A Home-made 
Fountain Pen — The Magic Pin-wheel — To Operate the Pin-wheel 
— A Wooden Chain and Rattle — The Chain — The Rattle — 
Finishing the Chain and Rattle. 

CHAPTER XXVIII 

Cork Toys 363 

Materials Required — Cork Animals — A Pig — A Horse — The 
Elephant — The Giraffe — A Porcupine — Other Animals — The 
Korka-bird — A Duck — Canoes — Small Sail-boats — Cork Furni- 
ture—A Chair — The Sofa — A Small Tabouret — A Toy Log- 
cabin. 

CHAPTER XXIX 
Definitions of Terms and Phrases 371 

Index 385 



LIST OF HALF-TONE ILLUSTRATIONS 

(In addition to more than four hundred text illustrations.) 

PART I 
A Boy's Workshop Frontispiece 



OPPOSITE PAGE 



Treatment of a Boy's Room 58 

Fig. 64. — A Colonial Doll-house 78 

Fig. 96. — Another Style of Doll-house ) 
Fig. 97. — Interior View of Doll-house \ 

An Amateur's Outfit 128 

A Group of Amateur Papers . . . . . . . .142 

Fig. 168. — A Handy Dark-room 

Fig. 172. — A Washing-box and Drying-rack 

PART II 



[ 154 



In Camp for the Summer 175 

A Boys' Log-cabin 188 

Two Simple Cabins 198 

Caught at Last 226 

The Back-yard Circus 268 

PART III 

A Miniature Theatre 303 

I^ig- 330- — A Field Scene ) ^ 

f^ig- 338- — A Blockhouse Scene f 

^H- 339 — A Street Scene 320 

f^'g- 375- — The Car completed ) 

V. •••••• 344 

Fig. 376. — The Framework j 

XV 




BANKING 
H0UR5 

lO A>t TO 3 p >£ 





PART I 



Profit aMe 
Pa6i:imevS 




CHAPTER I 

A BOY'S WORKSHOP 




Carpenter work should be encouraged in a boy from 
the time he first becomes interested in it, for besides 
being something with which to keep him busy, the ex- 
perience gained by its practice will be useful to him all 
his life, no matter what branch of industry he may follow 
later on. 

When a boy has learned the proper care and use of 
tools, and is able to turn out neatly executed work, he 
will find the occupation a profitable one, there being an 
unlimited number of things he can make in his shop. 

Doll-houses for girl relatives, toys for brothers and 
cousins, and articles for the household, such as are 
described in following chapters, are a few of the many 
things he can construct. Many of these are salable 
articles, besides being suitable for birthday and Christ- 
mas gifts, and should bring a neat sum of money to the 
young carpenter. 

A knowledge of carpenter work also develops in a 
boy a handiness for devising and putting together articles 
and apparatus for his own use. 

3 



PROFITABLE PASTIMES 



A boy should really have a shop where he can keep 
his tools and unfinished work with no danger of them 
being disturbed, and where he need not be afraid of 
littering the floor with shavings or of making too much 
noise. 

The Workshop may be fitted up by the boy himself, 
and a suitable place can probably be found in the base- 
ment, barn, or woodshed. Here a corner large enough 
to contain a work-bench, carpenter's horses, 
and tool-cabinets, besides plenty of room to 
work in, should be partitioned off, and a 
window that will admit a good supply of 
light made in one side of the room, if one 
has not already been provided. 

A Solid Work-bench, six feet long, thirty 
inches wide, and thirty-two inches high, 

should be con- 
structed beneath 
the window. It is 
a good idea to 
build this on to the 
wall if possible, as 
it is easier to make 
a solid bench by 
doing so, and the 
firmer it is, the 
better. 

First cut a two- 



■Wiodov^ 



i 



! 



i'X4." C-oee^aJeoe 



-2'X4" 



mratmsmmms 



m 



Fig. I. — End View of Work-bench. 



A BOY'S WORKSHOP 




by-four four feet long, and spike it to the wall below the 
window, twenty-eight inches above the floor. Then saw 
two pieces of two-by-four, twenty-eight inches long, for 
the legs, and two pieces, thirty inches long, for cross- 
pieces. Spike the crosspieces on to the legs and on to 
the piece nailed to the wall, as shown in F'ig. i. Cut 
three ten-inch planks, six feet long, and spike them to 
the crosspieces so that they project twelve inches over 
the ends, but are flush with the framework in front. 
Then cut a ten-inch board, six feet long, for an apron, 
and, after cutting 
the ends as shown 
in Fig. 4, nail it 
across the front of 
the bench. 

For fifty cents 
a fifteen-inch iron 
or wooden bench- 
screw, similar to 
those in Figs. 2 
and 3, can be purchased at a hardware store, and the 
rest of 

The Vise is simple to make. Figures i, 4, and 5 
show the details for this. 

Take a board thirty inches long by six inches wide 
for the jaw, and bore a hole a little larger than the screw, 
six inches from one end. Bore another hole the same 
size through the apron and table-leg, six inches below the 



Fig 



Iron Bench-screw. 




Fig. 3. — Wooden Bench-screw. 



6 PROFITABLE PASTIMES 

bench-top (see A in Figs. 4 and 5). The portion of 
the iron screw marked B in Fig. 2 should be set into the 
hole bored in the bench-leg and screwed at E (Fig. i), 
while the portion D is to be screwed to the jaw. If a 



I O" Apron. 
A'-^(^-^ /ioles for Bench 3crew 



tin 

J 

I 

X 

CM 



O' 



nortlse 




Fig. 4. 



Fig. 5. 



Details of Bench-vise. 



wooden screw is used, the portion C in the drawing 
(Fig. 3) is nailed to the inside of the bench-leg. 

In order to guide the bottom of the jaw, an arrange- 
ment similar to F in Fig. 5 should be made. Make a 
mortise two inches long by one inch wide near the 



A BOY'S WORKSHOP 7 

bottom of the bench-leg and cut a strip of wood fifteen 
inches long to fit loosely in it. Then shut the vise and 
mark upon the inside of the jaw the place where the 
mortise comes in the leg. Nail one end of the fifteen- 
inch strip to the jaw at this point, being careful to get 
it in such a position that the other end will slide into 
the mortise. Bore several holes in the strip and cut 
a peg to fit in them. The jaw can now be kept parallel 
with the side of the bench by adjusting the peg, which 
is very necessary in order to have the vise grip a piece 
of work squarely. 

When you have a long board to work upon, it cannot 
be held steady by the vise alone. One end should be 
placed in the vise and the other rested upon a peg stuck 
in a hole bored in the side of the bench. For boards 
of different lengths, several holes should be bored, as 
shown in the illustration of the finished bench (see 
frontispiece), and a movable peg cut to fit in them. 

A Bench-stop of some sort fastened to the top of 
the bench will be found useful to push work against 
while planing it, when it is not convenient to use the 
vise. Figures 6, 7, and 8 show the forms of stops most 
commonly used by carpenters. Of these the metal stop 
shown in Fig. 6 is the most satisfactory, as it can be 
adjusted to different heights. It costs but little and is 
easily put in place. A mortise is made in the top of 
the bench to receive the lower portion of the stop, and 
the plate A is set flush with the bench-top and held in 



PROFITABLE PASTIMES 



place with screws driven into the holes in the corners. 
The centre of this plate {B) is detached from the rest 
and mounted upon a small post, which can be adjusted 



■Bird5_ 
Plouvh" 
Cut 




Fig. 7. 



Fig. 8. 



Some Forms of Bench-stops. 



to the desired height by giving the screw at C a few 
turns with the screw-driver. The teeth in the edge of 
B help to hold the work in position. 

One of the simplest forms of stops is shown in Fig. 7. 
It consists of two screws placed in the top of the 
bench, which can be raised or lowered with the screw- 
driver to the height you desire. 

The stop shown in Fig. 8 is made out of a block of 
wood with a " bird's mouth " cut in one side. It should 
be nailed to one end of the bench in such a position that 
the end of the work can be placed in the " bird's mouth." 

While most of your work will be done on the bench, 
and a good portion of sawing done with the wood in 
the vise, large pieces, especially long boards, are gener- 
ally sawn while placed across horses. 



A BOY'S WORKSHOP 




Fig. 9. 



Two Carpenter's Horses will be required. A good 

scheme for these is shown in Fig. 9. The top is made 

out of a piece of two-by-four with bevelled mortises cut 

in two sides of each 

end as in Fig. 10. 

These mortises are 

made to receive the 

legs, and the angle 

of the bevel will 

of course determine 

the angle at which 

the legs will spread. 

Cut the legs out of four-inch boards, and bevel the 

lower ends to make them set solidly upon the floor. 

Nail the legs firmly in place 
and brace them with two 
boards cut and fitted in place, 
as in the illustration. When 
^iG. 10. the pieces have been nailed 

together, plane off the tops of the legs to make them 

flush with the top of the horse, and trim the lower ends 

if they require it until the horse is solid. 

Boring, paring, and nailing on the bench will soon 

make the surface uneven, unless something is placed 

beneath the work during such operations. You should 

therefore make and use 

A Bench-hook, such as shown in Fig. 11. A good 

size is ten by twelve inches, but it may be made 




lO 



PROFITABLE PASTIMES 



larger or smaller if desired. Nail a strip along one 
edge of the under face and another strip along the 

opposite edge of 
the upper face. The 
latter strip should 




Fig. II. — A Bench-hook. 



have three kerfs cut 
in it as shown in 
the drawing, one at 
right angles and the 
other two at forty-five degrees. These may be laid off 
with a try-square, as shown in Figs. 38 and 39 (Chapter II), 
or with the bevel, as shown in Fig. 42. Be careful to 
keep the saw on the line and in a perfectly perpendicular 
position in making 
these kerfs. The 
upper strip on the 
bench-hook serves 
the purpose of a 




stop, and the kerfs 
make it possible 
to use the bench- 
hook for mitring 
with the back-saw. 
Further description 
of the uses of this 
handy article will be found in the following chapter. 

You will need 

A Mitre-box for cutting mitres in large work, and 



Fig. 12. — A Mitre-box. 



A BOY'S WORKSHOP 



II 



this may be made as shown in Fig. 12. Cut two 
pieces of seven-eighths inch maple, or other hard wood, 
twenty inches long by six inches wide, and one piece 
twenty inches long by four inches wide. Nail the six-inch 
pieces to the edges of the four-inch piece as shown in the 
drawing, after which you are ready to cut the mitres. 
These should be laid out similar to those on the bench- 
hook, by means of the mitred try-square or the bevel. 
With the blade of the try-square or bevel extending across 
the top edges of the side-pieces, mark off forty-five degree 
lines at A and B, and a ninety degree line at C, after 
which square the lines down both inner and outer face of 
the side-pieces. When the lines have been accurately 
drawn, it is a simple matter to make the kerfs, if you 
have had any practice in sawing and can keep to a line. 

No matter how skilful a carpenter is with his tools, 
he generally depends upon his mitre-box in making 
mitres, for not only accu- 
racy is obtained by its use, 
but time is also saved. In 
usinor one be careful not 
to let the saw cut into the 
sides of the kerfs, or the 
box will soon be rendered 
useless for making accu- 
rate mitres. 

Before putting the finish upon a piece of work, the 
wood should be thoroughly sand-papered. In many 




Fig. 13. — Sand-paper Block. 



12 PROFITABLE PASTIMES 

cases certain portions cannot be reached by the hand, 
and so 

A Sand-paper Block similar to Fig. 13 should be made. 
Cut a block of wood five inches long, two and one- 
half inches wide, and seven-eighths of an inch thick. 
Then place it in the vise, and bevel one end and round 
the other as shown in the drawing. An inch and one- 
half from each end cut " rabbets " one inch wide across 
the block, and make two blocks to fit them. When 
this has been done, cut a strip of sand-paper two and 
one-half inches wide and stretch it around the block, 
holding it in place by driving the small blocks into 
the rabbets. You will find this sand-paper block very 
handy, as some portion of it can be got into almost 
every corner you will ever have occasion to sand-paper. 
The paper may be quickly replaced with a fresh piece 
when worn out. 

A Strop for putting keen edges on tools may be made 
out of a block of wood, with a piece of shoe-leather, 
or section of an old razor-strop, glued to one side 
of it. 

A Plumb, similar to Fig. 14, is a handy article to have 
for outdoor work, such as erecting posts in perpendicular 
positions. You will have need of it in putting up such 
buildings as the back-yard club-house, the log-cabin, and 
the erection of apparatus for the outdoor gymnasium, 
the construction of which will be found in following 
chapters. 



A BOY'S WORKSHOP 13 

It consists of a stick, the sides of which have been 
planed up true and parallel, with a notch in one end 
and a cord with a weight attached fastened to 
the other end. The notch should be cut in the 
exact centre of the end of the stick, and the nail 
placed in the other end directly in line with the 
centre of the notch. An iron nut, or some such 
weight, should be attached to the lower end of 
the cord. 

By placing this stick at the side of an object, 
you can determine whether or not it is plumb 
by the position of the string, which should hang 
in the centre of the notch when the object is 
plumb. The length of the stick may be made 
to suit the size of the work it is to be used 
upon. Four or five feet is a good length for ,. 
ordinary outside work. 

In purchasing Tools for your workshop it is not ^^^' ^'^' 
advisable to buy them in chests, for they are almost always 
made of cheap material, and poor tools are of no use to 
the boy who intends to do good work. It is a much 
better plan to buy a few tools at a time, getting a good 
quality of steel, and to gradually increase your outfit as 
your money permits. Then if you really want a chest 
you can make it yourself. A hatchet, hammer, saw, 
plane, chisel, jack-knife, bit and bit-stock, screw-driver, 
and square are the principal tools you will require, 
and need be all you have to start out with. Others 



14 



PROFITABLE PASTIMES 



may be got as you have need of them, and may be 
selected from the following list, which includes probably 
all the tools a boy would ever have occasion to use. 

LIST OF TOOLS FROM WHICH TO MAKE YOUR SELECTIONS 



I 14-inch Jack-plane. 




Draw-knife. 


I 18-inch Fore-plane. 




Jack-knife. 


I 9-inch Smoothing- plane. 




Hatchet. 


I 2 2 -inch Rip-saw. 




Hammer. 


I 20-inch Cross-cut saw. 




Tack Hammer. 


I 12-inch Back-saw. 




Mallet. 


T 12-inch Compass-saw. 




Nail-sets (large and small) 


I Gig- or Bracket-saw. 




Hand Screw-driver. 


I Ratchet Brace. 




Wood Rasp. 


5 Anger-bits, ^-inch, f -inch, |^-inch, 




Metal File. 


|-inch, and i-inch. 




Pair Cutting Nippers. 


I Expansive-bit. 




Pair Pincers. 


Several Gimlet Bits. 




Grind- stone. 


I Screw-driver Bit. 




Oil-stone and oil-can. 


I Counter-sink. 




Strop. 


I Brad-awl. 




2-foot Folding Rule. 


2 Hand Gimlets. 




Large Steel Square. 


I Automatic-drill. 




7-inch Try-square. 


4 Chisels, ^-inch, i-inch, |-inch, 




Bevel. 


and i-inch. 




Marking-gauge. 


2 Gouges, |-inch and J-inch. 




Compass. 



The proper care and handling of these tools is fully 
described and illustrated in the following chapter. 
These directions should be carefully read before you 
attempt to use the tools, especially the edge tools. 

A Cabinet will be found much better for an outfit 
of tools than a tool-chest, as it can be more easily got 



A BOY'S WORKSHOP 



15 



at than a chest, where it is necessary to lift several 
trays before you can reach a tool which has been put 
in the bottom. 

The cabinet shown in Fig. 15 is made out of a box 
about three feet long, two feet wide, and nine inches 




Fig. 15. — Tool-cabinet. 

deep. Make a door from the box-cover, fastening the 
boards together by means of two battens placed at the 
top and bottom (see illustration). Nail a cleat on 



i6 



PROFITABLE PASTIMES 



each side of the cabinet six inches from the bottom, 
and make a shelf to fit upon them. 

Racks for Bits and Chisels should be made similar to 
Fig. 1 6, and fastened side by side to the inside of 
the cabinet. 

Cut a strip of wood about the size of the battens, 
and make two slots in it, one for the end of the saw to 

fit in and the other 



for the blade of the 
try-square (see Fig. 
15). This strip is 
fastened to the 
cabinet door a few 
inches above the 
bottom batten. 




Fig. 16. — Bit and Chisel Racks. 



Hang up the other tools on brass hooks. 

After completing the cabinet, paint it inside and out, 
and fasten either a hook or lock to the door. 

When this cabinet becomes too small for your in- 
crease in tools, you can keep those you use the most 
in it, and make 

Another Cabinet for the special and less used tools. 
Either screw the cabinets to the wall or support them 
upon brackets. 

Racks may be made for any tools you wish to hang 
on the wall. A piece of grooved siding nailed above 
the bench will do nicely for the large square. 

When you do outside work you will want something 



A BOY'S WORKSHOP 



17 



in which to carry such tools as will be required to com- 
plete the job. 

A Carpenter s Carrying-box should be made. Such a box 
is shown in Fig. 17. The box should be about twenty- 
seven inches long, to accommodate the saws, and it 
would be well to make the width eight inches and the 




Fig. 17. — A Carpenters Carrying-box. 

height sixteen inches. First prepare the end-pieces, 
making them six by sixteen inches and rounding the 
tops with the compass-saw, as shown in the illustration. 
Then cut a board twenty-five inches long by six inches 
wide for the bottom and nail the end-pieces to the 
ends of it. Make the side-pieces twenty-seven by eight 
inches, and nail them to the end-pieces and to the 
edges of the bottom board. The handle consists of a 
broom-stick fitted into holes bored near the tops of the 
end-pieces. 

This box should be used for tools only, and not have 



i8 



PROFITABLE PASTIMES 



nails, screws, and bolts mixed up with them, for these 
supplies should be kept in a special 

Nail-box, with compartments for the different sizes of 
nails, screws, hooks, screw-eyes, hinges, etc. One of the 
best kinds of boxes for this purpose is a knife-box such 
as can be bought for ten or fifteen cents. This is divided 
in two and has a handle attached (see Fig. i8). The 
two compartments should be sub-divided into smaller 
boxes, either with pieces of cigar-boxes, or with pieces of 




Fig. 1 8. — Nail-box. 



tin bent at the ends and fastened to the sides of the 
box, as shown in the illustration. 

Supplies of nails, brads, etc., should be kept in cans 
and cigar-boxes of different sizes, and it is a good idea 
to letter these receptacles that you may be able to put 
your hands upon what you want without having to hunt 
for it. 

Shelves will be handy to keep paint-cans and these 
boxes on. 

Workshop Clothes. — Old clothes should be worn in the 
shop, as carpenter work is rather hard upon them, espe- 



A BOY'S WORKSHOP 19 

cially the trousers. Better than these is a pair of over- 
alls and perhaps a jumper. They are easy to work in 
and wear better than anything else. 

A Fev> Hooks should be placed on the wall for hats 
and coats, and for your working clothes, if you chano-e 
them in the shop before and after work. 

To prevent your tools from being carried off, and 
your work from being disturbed, it is advisable to have 
a lock upon the door and keep your shop locked up 
when you are away. 

To avoid danger of fire, keep combustible articles, 
such as oily waste and rags, in covered tin cans, and do 
not allow shavings and rubbish to accumulate. 



if 






ft 


fc 


1 


CHAPTER II 

THE PROPER HANDLING OF 
TOOLS 


ffi 













Before using a tool be sure you understand the 
proper handling of it, for there is probably nothing more 
easily injured than an edge tool in a sharpened condi- 
tion. An inexperienced person is very apt to dull or 
nick a tool by striking its edge against nails or by using 
it for purposes other than what it was made for. For 
this reason a carpenter is very apt to refuse a boy, or 
any amateur for that matter, the use of his tools, and he 
is right in doing so. Just imagine the amount of work 
it makes for him to put the tools in shape after they 
have been returned in all sorts of conditions. A little 
rubbing on the oil-stone, with an occasional grinding, is 
all his tools require when he is using them, but to re- 
move nicks made by his young friends wastes too much 
of his valuable time. 

A good rule to observe, boys, is never to lend tools to 
any of your friends, for though they may be as careful in 
handling them as you are, the chances are they will not 
be. You had better be a little " grouchy " in this respect, 
than to have tools which are unfit to do good work with. 



THE PROPER HANDLING OF TOOLS 21 

The following directions, together with the illustra- 
tions, should make the handling of your tools perfectly 
clear, and you will find among these a number of 
hints as to the care of tools that should be carefully 
adhered to in order that you may keep them in good 
condition. 

Saws. — A boy can get along with two saws, a cross- 
cut saw for general use and a compass-saw for finer 
work, such as circular sawing, and cutting thin wood 
where a large saw would be too coarse and apt to split 
the work. But you will often have need of a rip-saw, 
back-saw, and bracket-saw. They were therefore in- 
cluded in the list of tools on page 14, and you can add 
them to your outfit as your money permits. 

The Cross-cut Saw is, of course, intended for cutting 
across the grain, while the rip-saw is for cutting with the 
grain, or ripping. The former saw can be used for rip- 
sawing, but the operation is much slower, and when you 
have much of it to do, as in ripping a six-foot board, for 
instance, you will find the w^ork tedious. 

The Rip-saw is not fit for cross-cutting, as it leaves the 
cut fibres in a very rough condition. 

The difference in these two saws lies in the shape of 
their teeth. This can be seen by picking them up and 
examining their cutting edges. You will find the teeth 
are bent out of line, the first to the right side and the 
next to the left. This is known as the " set " of the 
teeth, and the quality of your work will depend largely 



22 



PROFITABLE PASTIMES 




Edge- of Saw 
Fig. 19. — Teeth of Cross-cut Saw. 



upon the care with which the teeth have been sharpened 
and set. At first you may confuse these two saws, but 
if you will notice that the teeth of the cross-cut saw 

come to sharp points 
and are bevelled on 
the sides, while those 
of the rip-saw are 
not sharpened on the 
sides, and instead of 
being pointed on the 
ends are chisel-shaped (see Figs. 19 and 20), you will 
have little trouble in distinguishing them. 

Sawing. — Small pieces may be sawn while held in the 
vise, but, as a rule, large work is placed across a couple 
of horses. It is generally the most convenient way. 
Grasp the saw in 

,1 •111 1 1 -i-=^ handle ~ EodofBLQde-^ 

the right hand, and 

take the position 

shown in Fig. 21, 

with the left knee 

upon the work to 

hold it in place, 

and the left hand 

at the edge of the board. The thumb should be 

pressed against the saw-blade to guide it until the cut 

has been well started, as shown in Fig. 22. Without 

the aid of the thumb the saw is liable to slip off the 

mark and make an ugly cut in the wood. First use 




■znsL 



U'/I'ling 



' ■■.iiiiima- 



MSjp 



Edge-of-3aw. 
Fig. 20. — Teeth of Rip Saw. 



THE PROPER HANDLING OF TOOLS 23 

a few short strokes until the saw has started to cut. 
Then use a long, steady stroke, putting all of the 




Fig. 21. — Position for Sawing. 

pressure upon the down stroke. Be careful to keep 
the saw to the line and in a perpendicular position, 
so that the cut will be square on all sides. If it starts 



24 



PROFITABLE PASTIMES 



to run away from the line, a slight twist of the blade 
will return it. 

When a board has been sawn nearly in two, remove 

the weight of your knee from it, and hold the board 

with the left hand to prevent it from splitting off. 

Fig. 23 shows the correct position for using 

The Back-saw, which is intended for more delicate 

work than the larger saw, such as can be sawn on the 

bench-hook or in 
the mitre-box. It 
makes a finer cut, 
its teeth being 
smaller and more 
closely set. 
The blades of 
The Compass- and 
Gig-saws are small 
and narrow, the 
former being used 
for circular cutting, 
as the name would imply, while the latter is employed 
in cutting very thin wood and in making delicate 
curves. The blades of these saws, especially the latter, 
are easily broken, and must be handled with care. The 
teeth are arranged so as to cut with and against the 
grain. 

The slot made by removing the fibre of the wood in 
sawing is known as 




Fig. 23. — Position for using the Back-saw. 



THE PROPER HANDLING OF TOOLS 



25 



A Kerf. The term is used a good deal in carpenter 
work, so it is well to know its meaning. 

The carpenter of to-day is generally supplied with all 
manner of planes, — rabbeting-planes, beading-planes, 
circular-planes, ploughs, etc., — besides the more com- 
monly used jack-plane, fore-plane, and smoothing-plane. 
Each of these planes has a special form of work to do, 
but ordinarily a boy will have occasion to use but the last 
three named, and many get along with but a jack- and 
a smoothing-plane. 

The Jack-plane is the plane you will first need to 
remove the rough surface of undressed lumber, and also 
to reduce quickly the thickness of wood. The cutting 
edge of the blade is ground so as to gouge the wood, 
removing thick shavings, but leaving ridges and hollows 
which must afterward be removed by a fore-plane or 
smoothing-plane. There is one trouble in using the 
smoothing-plane for this operation, however, and that 
lies in the danger of it following the hollows formed 
by the jack-plane, making a smooth but uneven surface. 

The Fore-plane, on the other hand, has a long enough 
stock to prevent the blade from cutting the lower 
portions until the high portions have been removed. 
Although a fore-plane can be used alone for smoothing 
large work, it is more convenient to finish up with 

The Smoothing-plane. 

The Stanley iron plane, shown in Fig. 24, is a great 
improvement over the old-style wooden ones, and is the 



26 



PROFITABLE PASTIMES 




Plane-iron. 
Plane-iron Cap. 
Wedge or Clamp 
Adjusting Screw. 
Adjusting Lever, 
Stock. 



most popular plane used to-day. It is more easily han- 
dled, as its iron is quickly put in place and adjusted. 
The illustration gives the names of the various parts. 
The cap {B) is screwed to the plane-iron {A\ and both 

are held in the stock 
{F) by means of the 
clamp on the end of 
the wedge (C). The 
thumb -screw {D) 
regulates the de- 
grees of fineness of 

Fig. 24. -Stanley Iron Plane. ^1^^ plane-iron, while 

the lever {E\ which moves from side to side, straightens 
the position of the iron. The base of the stock is 
known as the sole, or face. 

The Bailey plane is somewhat similar to the Stanley, 
the upper portion being of iron with screw adjustment, 
but the base being of wood. Its cost is much less than 
that of the entire iron plane, and you will probably find 
it as satisfactory if you do not care to spend the additional 
amount for the Stanley plane. 

For Planing, take the position shown in Fig. 25, with 
the left foot a little in advance of the right, the right 
hand grasping the handle of the plane and the left hold- 
ing the knob on the fore part of the stock. Use a long, 
steady sweep, and bear with equal pressure from the be- 
ginning of a stroke to the end, to avoid the hollows that 
are so easily made by taking shavings of different thick- 



THE PROPER HANDLING OF TOOLS 



27 



nesses. Do not drag the plane-iron over the work in 
returning it for another stroke, as it will dull its edge. 

You will often come across wood with a crooked 
grain, which runs diagonally through the piece, terminat- 
ing at the surface. 
There is a right 
way and a wrong 
way in planing this, 
just as there are 
two ways of strok- 
ing a cat's back, 
one smoothing the 
surface, while the 
other roughens it. 
When you find a 
piece of wood with 
this kind of uncer- 
tain grain, you will 
probably have to 
change the direc- 
tion of your plan- 
ing a number of 
times before finishing the surface, in order to plane with 
the grain. 

In planing end-wood, you will have trouble in prevent- 
ing the corners of the piece from splitting off unless it 
is placed in the vise in front of another block of wood, 
the planing being done toward the block. Or one 




Fig. 25. — Take this Position for Planing. 



28 PROFITABLE PASTIMES 

corner may be chamfered with the chisel, as shown in 
Fig. 29. 

Testing Work. — It is necessary to test work frequently 
while planing, in order to locate the high places and 
avoid taking off too much on the low places. This may 
be done by squinting one eye and holding the board on 
a level with the other eye, so that you can look down the 
length of it as in sighting a gun. The uneven places 
show up very plainly in this way. 

Work is also tested by means of the try-square. 
Place the handle of the square against the edge of the 
work with the blade of the square extending across the 
planed surface, and move it the length of the board. 
Any irregularities in the surface will show themselves 
as the blade passes over them. In planing up a block of 
wood, plane up one side and, after proving it to be true, 
use it for the " tried edge," testing the other sides with 
the handle of the square pressed against its surface. 

There are a number of forms of 

Chisels, but the only two classes you will probably ever 
be in need of are the firmer- and framing-chisels. The 
former are intended for hand use only, while the latter 
are used for heavier work, such as mortising, where it 
becomes necessary to use the mallet. 

In Using a Firmer-chisel, the work should be placed in 
the vise or be otherwise held in position, that both hands 
may be kept upon the tool, the right hand grasping the 
upper end of the handle and doing the pushing, while 



THE PROPER HANDLING OF TOOLS 



29 




Fig. 26. 



the left hand holds the lower part of the handle and acts 
as a guide in working it. 

Paring with the chisel consists in trimming a piece of 
wood to a given line. It is an operation very often 
resorted to in finishing the end of a piece of work in- 
stead of planing, and in trimming up a curved edge such 
as is shown in Fig. 26. Here the line -^^ represents the 
line of the finished 
end of a piece of 
work. The board is 
first placed in a vise 
and the wood re- 
moved to about one- 
quarter inch of AB 
with a compass-saw, 
following the curve of 
the line as nearly as 
possible. Then lay 
the piece upon the bench-hook (Fig. 11, Chap. I), and 
pare to the line with the chisel, as shown in F'ig. 26. 

The chisel is often used to pare down the surface of 
a piece of work to a given line, as shown in Fig. 27. 

The Framing-chisel should be held in the left hand, 
and the blows dealt upon the handle with the mallet in 
the right hand. In handling the framing-chisel the 
bevel of the blade should be toward the work, which is 
just the opposite from that shown in Figs. 26 and 27. 
Unless this is done the chisel will not cut down squarely 




Fig. 27. 

Figs. 26 and 27. 



Parine. 



30 



PROFITABLE PASTIMES 




Fig. 28. 



but will cut in under, as it cannot be guided as easily 
as the firmer-chisel can, with both hands to hold it. 

Chamfering and Bevelling are somewhat similar opera- 
tions. They consist in cutting the edges of a piece of 

wood, as shown in Figs. 28 
and 29. 

The corner of a block of 
wood is very often cham- 
, fered, when planing end- 

wood, to prevent the wood 
from splintering. It can only be done, of course, before 
the adjoining side has been planed up, that a square 
corner can be obtained again when the work is finished. 

The Gouge is a chisel with a curved section, its use 
being for cutting grooves and curvatures in a piece of 
work where the 
chisel cannot be 
employed. 

A Draw-knife is 
very handy for 
quickly reducing 
the size of material 
and in rounding 
sticks. The blade is drawn toward you instead of being 
pushed as in the case of a plane or chisel. 

Boring. — Probably the only trouble you will have with 
the bit and bit-stock will be in holding the brace in a 
perfectly vertical position so as to bore a straight hole. 




Fig. 29. — Chamfering. 



THE PROPER HANDLING OF TOOLS 31 

The centre of the hole should first be located upon 
the work. Then, after selecting the right size of bit and 
securing it in the clutches of the bit-stock, grasp the 
handle of the stock with the right hand and place the 
left hand on the top knob. Set the point of the bit 
against the work and bore steadily until the point ap- 
pears upon the opposite side. The bit should then be 
withdrawn and the rest of the hole bored from the other 
side. This prevents the fibre around the hole from 
splintering off, as it is likely to do when a hole is bored 
all the way through from one side. To bore a hole in 
a piece of work held in the vise, clamp a waste piece of 
wood in the vise with it, and bore straight through the 
work into the waste piece. 

When boring hard wood or using large bits increased 
pressure is necessary to operate the brace and at the same 
time steady the bit. This can be obtained by allowing 
the chest to bear upon the top knob. 

Holes two inches or more in diameter do not require 
a bit that size, for smaller holes can be bored and these 
trimmed to the required opening with a chisel or with 
the keyhole-saw. Whatever style of bit-stock you buy, 
get one with a fair length of arm, as a good leverage 
cannot be obtained with a short one. 

An Automatic-drill is a handy tool to have in the shop, 
although not a necessity. You have probably seen car- 
penters use it in drilling holes in hard wood, before driv- 
ing in finishing nails or screws. It beats the awl and 



32 PROFITABLE PASTIMES 

gimlet for speed, and is a tool which can be used in 
places where neither of these could be operated. The 
handle of the tool contains a number of sizes of drills. 

This tool must be used with care, as the drills snap 
off very easily when the tool is handled roughly or 
twisted from side to side while boring a hole. 

The Hatchet is an indispensable tool, for it can be used 
for a good deal of your rough work, such as splitting and 
paring. It requires practice to handle one successfully, 
however. A misplaced blow will sometimes ruin your 
work, either by cutting into it or striking grain which 
runs off into the portion to be finished. With straight 
grained wood it is not so difficult to pare to a line with 
the hatchet. The wood should be removed to within 
less than an eighth of an inch of the line, as the work 
must be dressed up afterward with the plane. 
^ It is well to have 

A Hammer with a fairly heavy head for large work, and 
a lighter one with which to drive small nails. 

Driving Nails. — The nail should first be held in position 
with the thumb and first two fingers, and given a few 
light raps with the hammer to start it. Then remove 
the fingers, and drive the nail home with steady blows, 
being careful to hit the head squarely so it will not bend. 

Although a bent nail can be driven home with the 
proper stroke, it is generally easier and quicker to 
withdraw it and either hammer it out straight or use 
another. 



THE PROPER HANDLING OF TOOLS 



33 



A pair of pincers are handy for 

Withdrawing Nails, especially nails whose heads are 
too small to be gripped with a claw hammer; but for 



removing 



large nails a 




Fig. 30. — Withdrawing Nails. 



stronger leverage is neces- 
sary. This can be obtained 

as shown in Fig. 30. The 

head of the nail is gripped 

in the claw of the hammer 

and a block of wood placed 

beneath the head. The 

handle of the hammer is 

then pulled toward you, as 

shown in the illustration. 

The block, besides increas- 
ing the leverage, prevents 

the hammer-head from injuring the surface of your 
work, and makes it possible to with- 
draw the nail in a fairly straight 
condition. 

Toe-nailing consists in driving nails 
diagonally into a piece of wood. It 
is used in fastening the ends of 
uprights, as shown in Fig. 31, where 
the nails cannot be driven in any 
other way, and also where there is 
danger of a board springing. You 

will often find it convenient to use this form of nailinor 




Fig. 31. — loe-nailing. 




34 PROFITABLE PASTIMES 

when the nails are too long to be driven straight into 

the work. 

Blind-nailing is a form of toe-nailing used on tongue 

and grooved boards in which the heads of the nails are 

concealed below the surface, as shown in Fig. 32. 

Clinching. — When nails come through a piece of wood 

their ends should be clinched. This is done by having 
some one hold a hard surface, such 
as the head or blade of a hatchet, 
against the under side of the work, 
or by laying the hatchet down and 
resting the work upon it, while you 

Fig. 32. — Blind-nailing. , . . .. _^, . . , .. 

drive the nail. 1 he point of the nail 
will bend over when it strikes the hard surface and sink 
into the wood. This is the best method to use in fasten- 
ing boards together with battens, in rough work, as the 
clinched nails act as rivets, preventing any possibility 
of the boards pulling apart. 

Do not drive the head of a nail into a finished surface 
with the hammer, as you are likely to mar the wood in 
doing so. Leave this — the " setting " of the nails — 
until the piece of work has been put together. Then go 
over it and drive the heads below the surface with 

The Nail-set, holding the tool as shown in Fig. 2>3' 
The holes made by the heads should be filled up with 
putty before the finish is put upon the wood. 

Before driving nails into hard wood, holes should be 
made with the brad-awl or drill, to prevent them from 



THE PROPER HANDLING OF TOOLS 



35 



splitting the wood, and to make it easier to drive them 
in without bending. The holes should be a trifle smaller 
than the nails. Always drill a hole before driving a nail 
into thin wood or near the edge of a piece. 

A nail can be driven more easily if its point is rubbed 
over a piece of soap. This is something you should 
remember to do 
when nailing hard 
wood. 

Nails. — Iron, gal- 
vanized-iron, wire, 
and copper nails are 
manufactured, but of 
these the wire nail is 
the most commonly 
used for all kinds of 
work, it being more 
easily handled, not 
so liable to snap off, 
and there being less 
danger of splitting your work with it than with the 
iron nails. 

You will notice the iron nails have two smooth sides 
and two rough ones. In using these it is necessary to 
drive them with the smooth sides parallel with the grain, 
otherwise they are sure to split the work. 

Nails are classified according to their shape and 
gauge. The only kinds you will probably ever have 




Fig. 33. — Setting Nails. 



2>^ 



PROFITABLE PASTIMES 



occasion to use are the Common, or nail for all ordinary 
work ; the Finishing-nail, with the small head used on 
finish work; and the Brad, or small-sized finishing-nail. 
You can buy these by calling for the length you require, 
but it is more businesslike to use the standard terms by 
which all carpenters know them. 

The following table gives these terms, together with 
the length in inches : — 



2-Penny Nails (i inch long), 
(i^ inches long 



3 


(( 




(H 


4 


a 




(4 


5 


i( 




(If 


6 


(( 




(2 


7 


(( 




(4 


8 


(( 




(4 


9 


(I 




(2| 



lo-Penny Nails (3 inches long" 



(3i " 


I \ 


(3i " 


i( \ 


(4 " 


i \ 


(4| " 


I \ 


(5 " 


( \ 


isi " 


( \ 


(6 " " ). 


inches (20c 


to 



12 
16 
20 

30 
40 

50 
60 



All nails longer than three and a hali 
6od inclusive) are known as spikes. 

It is desirable to have 

A Screw-driver which will set in the clutches of your 
bit-stock, besides the ordinary kind, for it is more quickly 
operated, and screws can be driven in hard wood easier 
on account of the greater amount of leverage you get 
with it. 

Holes should be drilled in hard wood before driving 
screws into it. 

Screws are made with round and flat heads. The 
round-headed screw is a finishing screw, and its head 
is left exposed on the surface of the wood ; but the flat- 



THE PROPER HANDLING OF TOOLS 37 

headed screw should be countersunk, that is, sunk below 
the surface. To do this you must drill a hole before 
driving in the screw with 

The Countersink, which is a drill made to fit in the 
bit-stock, and bores a hole the shape and depth of the 
screw-head. 

Sharpening Tools 

Be sure you understand the process of sharpening tools 
before you undertake to use the oil- and grind-stones. 

All tools are not sharpened alike, and you will need to 
know the different ways in order to get their cutting edges 
the right shape to serve their different purposes. 

Grinding is the most difficult part of the work, and most 
boys have trouble with it. One fault lies in using the 
grind-stone too frequently, grinding the edge of a tool 
when it requires only a little rubbing upon the oil- 
stone to put it in shape, and thus wearing down the tool 
unnecessarily. Again, by not keeping the stone suffi- 
ciently wet, the heat produced by the friction takes 
the temper out of the steel, making it soft and useless 
until retempered. 

If you have a stone with a crank arrangement, it will 
be necessary to have some one turn it while you control 
the tool. The stone should be turned toward the grinder 
and the tools held upward so the stone grinds against the 
edge instead of from it. Move the tools sidew^ays across 
the stone so as to wear it down evenly and help prevent 



38 



PROFITABLE PASTIMES 



the formation of ridges in the stone, which are very easily 

produced. 

Figure 34 shows the position to take in grinding 
Chisels. Hold the handle of the tool in the right hand 

and rest the palm of the left hand upon its blade. Then 

lower the edge upon the stone until the bevel strikes it 




Fig. 34. — Grinding the Chisel. 

flatly, and bear down upon the blade with your left hand. 
Continue the grinding until the bright line of the dull 
edge has disappeared and an invisible edge has been 
obtained. Stop when this point is reached or the edge 
will become feathery and break off, necessitating regrind- 
ing. Grind upon the bevelled edge only, and hold the tool 
in the same relative position, to prevent the bevel from 
becoming rounded. The angle of the bevel should be 



THE PROPER HANDLING OF TOOLS 39 

about twenty-five degrees. To keep this angle the same, 
it is desirable to have a rest, consisting of a board nailed 
to the frame of the stone, upon which to support the 
handle of the chisel. 

Gouges and Draw-knives are ground similarly, the 
former being rocked from side to side, in order to 
grind the curved bevel uniformly. 

Plane-irons are held with both hands, as shown in 
Fig. 35, and ground the same, except that the corners 




Fig. 35. — Grinding the Plane-iron. 

of the smoothing- and fore-plane irons are slightly 
rounded, while the edge of the jack-plane iron is a 
little higher at the corners than in the centre, to give 
it the qualities for removing thick shavings. It is more 
difficult to keep the line between the bevel and upper 
part of the iron straight than in grinding chisels, on 
account of the wider blade. 



40 



PROFITABLE PASTIMES 



Knives and Hatchets are ground upon both sides of the 
blade. 

Of course, the edge of a tool is left in a very rough 
condition by the grind-stone, and must be rubbed up 
on an oil-stone before it is fit to cut with. 

There are many makes of whetstones, many good 
ones and many worthless ones. Above all things, don't 




Produced By 
Grindstone 

Fig. 37. 



buy a cheap one, for it will be impossible to obtain keen 
edges upon it. 

One of the best stones upon the market is 
The Washita Oil-stone, a Kansas stone of medium hard- 
ness, free from grit and lumps, and of good quality 
through and through. 



THE PROPER HANDLING OF TOOLS 41 

In rubbing up a plane-iron, grasp the end between the 
thumb and fingers of the right hand and place the palm 
of the left hand across the iron to bring the necessary 
pressure upon it (see Fig. 36). 

Instead of holding the blade on the stone at the angle 
of the bevel, tip it to an angle of about thirty-five degrees, 
or ten degrees more than that of the bevel. With it held 
in this position, rub it back and forth upon the stone 
with a rotary motion, making a second narrow bevel 
along the edge of the tool (see Fig. 2)7)- ^^ careful 
to keep the blade in the same position, to prevent the 
bevels from becoming rounded. By exerting a steady 
upward pressure against the end of the tool with the 
right hand, and an equal downward pressure in the 
centre of the blade with the left hand, this is easily 
accomplished. 

The rough edge which appears on the back of the 
blade is removed by rubbing the flat side of the iron 
over the stone a few times. Care must be taken to keep 
the iron perfectly flat or a bevel will be formed. 

A Strop, consisting of a piece of leather fastened to a 
block of wood as described in the foregoing chapter, 
should be used after the oil-stone, to put a fine edge 
upon the tool. The tool is stropped in the same way 
as a razor is done. 

Saws require sharpening but once in a great while if 
proper care is taken of them. When they do become 
dull, or need to be set, it is advisable for you to pay an 



42 



PROFITABLE PASTIMES 



experienced person to do the work rather than attempt 

it yourself. 

Laying out Work 

A two-foot carpenter's folding-rule should generally 
be used in laying off measurements and a sharp-pointed 

pencil or brad-awl to locate the 
points. To connect the points it 
is necessary to have a straight- 
edge — a steel framing-square (Fig. 
42) for large boards and a small 
try-square (Fig. 38) for smaller 
pieces — and a pencil or knife. 

A pencil may be used in con- 
necting points upon rough work, 
but for greater accuracy a knife 
should be used, as it makes a 
thinner and cleaner-cut line. In 
making knife lines, the square 
must be held very firmly, to pre- 
vent it from slipping and allowing the knife to run 
out of its course. 

To draw lines across a board at right angles to one 
edge (which should be the straight or " tried edge " of 
the board) with the steel-square, place one arm of the 
square parallel with the tried edge and mark along the 
other arm. To perform the same operation with the try- 
square, place the handle against the tried edge, as shown 
in Fig. 38. 




THE PROPER HANDLING OF TOOLS 



43 



Oftentimes it becomes necessary to draw a line paral- 
lel to the tried edge. This may be done roughly with 
the rule and pencil, as shown in Fig. 40. Grasp the rule 
in the left hand, with the first finger touching the tried 
edge of the board, and hold the pencil point against the 
end of the rule with the right hand. Keeping this posi- 




FiG. 40. — Gauging with Rule and Pencil. 

tion, with a steady hold on the rule and pencil, move 
your hands along the board. The result will be a line 
parallel to the tried edge. 

At first you may have trouble in making a straight 
line, but with practice you will be able to hold the rule 
and pencil steadily. 

For particular work, where it is necessary to get a 
perfectly straight and parallel line, 

A Marking-gauge should be used. This is nothing 



44 



PROFITABLE PASTIMES 



more than the above principles combined in a tool. It 
consists of a graduated shaft, or rule, with a small needle 
or spur in one end, which slides through a mortise made 
in a block of wood known as the head. 

To operate the gauge, set the adjustable head at the 
required division on the shaft, and then grasp the head 
and shaft with the fingers of the right hand, as shown in 




Fig. 41. — Using the Marking-gauge. 



Fig. 41. Place the outer face of the head against the 
tried edge of your work, and then, pressing the spur into 
the wood, move the gauge along the board, at the same 
time keeping the face of the head firmly against the 
edge of the board. The gauge is much more conven- 
ient than the other method of drawing parallel lines, for 
you can repeat the measurement as often as you wish, 



THE PROPER HANDLING OF TOOLS 



45 



iriiiiiiiriiiiiiiriiiiiiii'iiii 



steel-square, as 
in Fig. 42, with 



having once adjusted the head, without having to lay 
it off again. 

A Try-square with a mitred handle costs but little 
more than the ordinary make, and is much handier, in- 
asmuch as it can be employed in making mitres, by 
placing the bevelled end against the side of the work 
instead of the straight side (see Figs. 38 and 39). 

The Bevel is in reality a try-square which can be ad- 
justed to any desired angle. To set it at an angle of 

forty-five degrees, place it 
on the 
shown 

the handle against the 
inner edge of one arm of the square and the 
blade resting on both arms. Move the blade 
until it strikes equal distances on the arms 
(this is shown at four inches in the drawing) 
and tighten the screw while it is in this 
position. Other angles may be drawn out 
upon a piece of wood and the bevel adjusted 
to them so these angles can be laid off upon 
other pieces. You will find the bevel handy for repro- 
ducing angles. However, if you are supplied with a 
mitred try-square you can easily dispense with it for 
ordinary work. 

There will be times when you wish 
To Divide a Board into a number of equal parts, which 
may be found to be fractions of an inch that cannot be 




Fig. 42. 



46 



PROFITABLE PASTIMES 



easily laid off with the rule in the ordinary way. It 
can be accomplished with a pair of compasses, but until 
you become practised in their use, it will take some little 
time in setting them, dividing, resetting, and redividing, 
until the exact divisor is obtained. A much quicker 
method is that performed with the rule, as shown in 

Fig. 43. 

Suppose you wish to divide a board four and three- 
quarters inches long into five equal parts. Place your 




Fig. 43. — Dividing a Board Equally. 



rule across the board, as shown in the illustration, one 
end at one edge and the " five-inch " division at the op- 
posite edge. Mark off the five divisions and then square 
the lines across the board at these points with the try- 
square. This will give you the required five equal parts. 
In the same way longer boards may be divided up by 
using two- and three-inch divisions on the rule instead 
of one-inch, and smaller pieces by using half- and quarter- 
inch divisions. 




CHAPTER III 

THE BOY ABOUT THE HOUSE 




There are generally repairs of some kind to be made 
about the house — such as mending screens, renewing 
window-ropes, repairing wooden walks, patching fences, 
etc. — which a boy can do, besides many ingenious arti- 
cles for the house which he can make in his workshop. 
Ideas for labor-saving devices which cannot be bought 
upon the market present themselves now and then, and 
if there is a boy in the neighborhood to carry them out, 
the housekeeper will be only too glad to pay him for 
doing the work. 

For general jobbing you will require a carpenter's 
carrying-box (Fig. 17, Chap. I) in which to carry your 
tools, and a nail-box (Fig. 18) for nails, screws, hinges, 
and such hardware as you will need upon the job. With 
these you will have a complete outfit. 

A few suggestions as to what you can do and what 
you can make are described and illustrated in this chap- 
ter, and should give you plenty of material to work upon 
when you open up your carpenter-shop. Besides these 
ideas, you will find most of the articles in the following 

47 



48. 



PROFITABLE PASTIMES 



ScT-ew Minge to 
Upper Sash- 
•Like-tbis- 



chapter suitable for the house and pieces of furniture 
for which it will be easy to secure orders. 

The Hinge-lock, in Fig. 44, is one of the most service- 
able window-locks that can be had, for it can be so placed 
as to allow the window to be opened a few inches for 
ventilation, and at the same time prevent further opening. 
The hinge is screwed to the upper sash-frame several 
inches above the centre sash-bar, according to the dis- 
tance the window is to be 
opened (see illustration). 

It will be seen that when 
the hinge is opened, as in 
the drawing, neither sash 
can be opened past the 
hinge ; but when the hinge 
is folded flat it will not 
interfere with the opening 
of either sash. 

This lock would prob- 
ably be more extensively 
used if people knew how 
simple and satisfactory it is. As the hinges cost but 
a few cents a pair, and are put on very quickly, a boy 
should realize a fair sum of money in a short time 
supplying these locks. 

A Clothes-line Reel, such as shown in Fig. 45, is an 
article no housekeeper should be without. Its use does 
away with twisted, tangled, and knotted clothes-lines. 



Fig. 44. — The Hinge Window Lock. 



THE BOY ABOUT THE HOUSE 



49 



As they require but little material, and the cost of that 
amounts to almost nothing, the manufacture of these 



C 



CD 



m 



D 




Fig. 45. — A Clothes-line Reel. 

time-saving devices, for the neighbors, should prove 
profitable. 

The reel consists of two strips of wood sixteen inches 



50 



PROFITABLE PASTIMES 



long by three inches wide for the sides, and two pieces 
of broom-handles sixteen inches long for the horizontal 
rods (see Fig. 45). Five inches from each end of the 
side-pieces, bore a hole the size of the broom-handle. 

With the pieces thus prepared it is a simple matter 
to fit them together, as in the illustration, placing the 




Fig. 46. — Broom and Dust-pan Rack. 

broom-handles in the holes bored for them, and fasten- 
ing them so the side-pieces are nine inches apart and a 
handle five inches long projects on either side. It is 
probably needless to say that the ends of the broom- 
sticks are held in the hands when operating the reel. 
A Broom and Dust-pan Rack is a handy article for the 



THE BOY ABOUT THE HOUSE 51 

kitchen or broom-closet, and can be made as shown In 
Fig. 46. 

A rack to hold a large and small broom, dust-pan, and 
brush, should measure three feet long, three inches wide, 
and be made out of a seven-eighths-inch board. Bevel 
the edges and place four brass hooks in the front, as 
shown In the drawing, from which to hang the broom, 
dust-pan, etc. 

Brooms should always be dampened and put away, 
handle down, according to the advice of an old broom- 
maker, who claims that by so doing the straws are kept 
from becoming brittle and the broom lasts much longer. 




'^UtjLry^nd of stick 
Fig. 47. — a Fly-killer. 

The brooms should therefore have screw-eyes placed in 
the handle, just above the tin binding, to hang upon the 
hooks, as shown in the illustration. 

The rack should be screwed to the wall. 

Fly-papers and poisons are deadly enemies to the 
house-fly, but none are as effectual or as quick acting as 

The Fly-killer, shown in Fig. 47. This simple device 
consists of a piece of screen-wire, about four by five 
inches, stuck into a slot made in the end of a stick, and 
fastened in place with tacks driven through the end of 
the handle and clinched upon the under side. 



PROFITABLE PASTIMES 

If possible, cut the wire with a selvage along the front 
edge, and trim the roughness from the other edges to 

prevent scratching. 

The fly-killer is hung up by a screw-eye placed m the 

end of the handle. 




Fig. 48. — An Ash-sifter. 



With the fly-killer a person can strike at a %_with 
almost a certainty of killing it. As the scree-v^e .s 
not easily seen by the fly, and the mesh allows the arr to 
pass through, there is nothing to alarm him. 



THE BOY ABOUT THE HOUSE 



53 



These little things are quickly made, and when you 
show your customer how effective they are, you will find 
no trouble in disposing of them. 

An Ash-sifter that is dust-proof and very satisfactory 
is shown in Fig. 48. It is made out of a packing-case 
about three feet long, eighteen inches wide, and twenty- 
four inches deep. 

Set the box upon two-by-four stilts in the shed or 
yard (braced as shown in the illustration), in such a 
position that the bottom of the box w^ill be on a level 
with the top of the alley ash-box. Then cut an opening 
through the shed wall and end of the box, as shown at 
AB, for the removal of ashes. Two strips are nailed 
to the sides of the box (seven inches below the top) for 
tracks for the sifter to run upon, and below this, at C, a 
board slide is placed to dump the ashes, which shake 
through the sifter, out of the opening in the end of the 
box into the ash-box. Nail one half of the cover to the 
top of the box and hinge the other half to it. 




Fig. 49. — The Sifter. 



Make the sifter eighteen inches square by six inches 
deep, using six-inch boards for the frame and one-third 
or one-half inch wire-mesh for the bottom (see Fig. 49). 



54 



PROFITABLE PASTIMES 



Fasten four trunk-casters, such as are shown in Fig. 50, 
to the bottom of the frame, and fit a broom-stick in one 
ft ^-^ fi side for a handle. A slot must be cut in 
^^^^^ the end of the box for the handle to fit in. 

Fig. 50. A Bread-board may be made out of a 

Trunk-caster, geven-eighths inch maple board about ten by 

eighteen inches, with the surface planed perfectly smooth 

and the edges bevelled or rounded. A hole should be 

bored near one edge, so it may be hung up in the pantry. 

The dining-room is not complete without 

A Plate-rack for the display of pretty pieces of china. 
Figures 51 and 52 
show the details 
for the construc- 
tion of a rack of 
three shelves, and 
in size three feet 
long and two feet 
ten inches high. 
Although the de- 
sign is very simple 
in outline, it is 
such as will make 
a pleasing piece 
of furniture when 
neatly carried out. 

Prepare the two side-pieces the shape and size shown 
in Fig. 52, and cut the shelves two feet ten inches long 




THE BOY ABOUT THE HOUSE 



55 



by the widths given in the drawing (Fig. 52). One 
groove should be made in shelf A and two in shelves B 
and C, for the edges of plates to stand in. These 
grooves are cut with a chisel, and should be made V- 
shaped as shown. Narrow strips of wood may be nailed 
along the shelves as substitutes for the grooves if you 
wish, but the work required to plane up the strips will 
amount to about as much, 



K-4H 



w:mM 



and they do not present 
as neat an appearance. 

Having cut out the 
shelves and side-pieces, 
you are ready to put the 
rack together. For this 
purpose you should use 
finishing-nails so their 
heads will not make very 
large holes in the surface 
of the wood. Fasten the 
bottom shelf (C) between 

the side-pieces seven inches above the bottom, the 
middle shelf {B) ten inches above that, and the top 
shelf {A) nine inches above the middle shelf. The 
inner edofes of the shelves should be fastened flush 
with the edges of the sides. In the bottom shelf place 
a row of brass hooks for cups to hang upon. 

It is necessary to fasten three strips two inches wide 
between the sides in the back of the rack (as shown in 



Fig. 



J 



56 PROFITABLE PASTIMES 

the drawing) for the tops of the plates to rest against. 
Two holes should be bored in the top strip, by which 
to hang the rack on nails or hooks fastened in the 
wall. 

After completing the carpenter-work, finish the rack 
with a stain which will harmonize with the color scheme 
of the room in which it is to hang. 




CHAPTER IV 



SUGGESTIONS FOR A BOY'S 
ROOM 




It is far better for a boy to spend his evenings in the 
house than out upon the street. He need not be with- 
out his friends there, for if he has an attractive room, 
with books to read, games to play, and puzzles to solve, 
the boys of the neighborhood will soon find it out and be 
only too glad to have a chance to visit him, knowing they 
will be sure of finding plenty of things to interest them. 

The simpler the furnishings of a boy's room are the 
better. Plain and substantial furniture which will stand 
perhaps a little rougher usage than that in other rooms 
of the house, and handy places for storing away his traps, 
are what are needed. 

The room should be his den where he can keep what 
he pleases, and arrange the fittings to suit his individual 
tastes. Shelves for his books and magazines, a cabinet 
for various collections, boxes for miscellaneous articles, 
and a desk at which he can study and keep his accounts, 
are a few of the things the room should contain. These 
pieces can easily be constructed in the workshop, by 
following the directions given in this chapter. 

57 



58 PROFITABLE PASTIMES 

On the opposite page is shown a scheme for a boy's 
room suggestive of his sports, games, and handicraft, 
and while everything is simple and inexpensive in the 
furnishings, it makes a room that will strike the fancy 
of the average boy. 

Nothing appears more attractive than 

A Cosey-corner, such as shown in the illustration, and 
it is a simple matter to fit one up. A home-made couch, 
box, or seat of some sort should be constructed to set in 
the corner, a shelf fastened to one wall a foot or more 
above it, and several shelves hung on the adjoining wall, 
as shown in the drawing. 

Purchase several yards of a dark shade of green 
denim, and enclose the corner with three strips (see 
illustration). The upper strip is stretched across the 
corner at the ceiling, and the other two attached to its 
ends and allowed to hang to the floor. It is a good idea 
to make also a dado of the same material within the corner 
from the baseboard to the under side of the shelves. 

Pennants representative of the various colleges can be 
made out of cheese-cloth, and a string of these hung 
across the corner at the ceiling will produce a pretty 
effect. 

The walls of the room may be brightened with 

Small Posters, which it is an easy matter to obtain 
nowadays, and small pictures mounted upon colored 
mats and fastened behind glass by means of passe- 
partout paper are always attractive. 



SUGGESTIONS FOR A BOY'S ROOM 



59 



Picture-frames can be made out of narrow mouldine, 
the corners of which have been mitred in the mitre-box 
to make them join neatly. 

A frame which has proven satisfactory for small 
posters and pictures not requiring glass is one made 
out of common laths. The ends of the laths are not 
mitred as is usually the case in making frames, but are 
fastened together with what is known as a *' butt-joint " ; 
that is, the ends of each piece are set against the ends 
of the adjoining pieces. The simplest way of fastening 
them together is 
by means of small 
strips of wood 
nailed across the 
corners on the 
back of the frame. 

Although this 
frame might be 
expected to have 
a clumsy appear- 
ance, it has not, 
and when thor- 




FiG. 53. — A Writing-desk. 



oughly sand-papered and finished with a dull green stain 
is very pretty. 

The Writing-desk shown in Fig. 53 is constructed out 
of a box, and makes a pretty piece of furniture when 
completed. 

Procure a box as free from defects as possible, and with 



6o 



PROFITABLE PASTIMES 



fairly wide boards, so there will be but few cracks. The 
cover should be in not more than two pieces, as it 
forms the drop-front of the desk, and it would be difficult 
to fasten more together. The boards must be fastened 
with " dowels " and cleats on the edges, as shown in 

Fig. 54, as cleats upon 
the inside of the drop 
would be in the way. 

Dowelling consists 
in boring holes along 



the edge of each board 
and fitting pegs in 
them. Of course the 
holes must be bored in 
exactly the same rela- 
tive positions in each 
piece so that the end 
and sides of the boards 
wnll be flush with each other when the pegs have 
been put in place. To get the holes correctly bored, 
place the boards together in the vise with two edges 
flush and uppermost, and square lines six inches apart 
across the edges, after which locate the centres of the 
holes on these lines. Be careful to bore the holes 
straight, and make them a little longer than the pegs. 
Cut the pegs out of hard wood and make them large 
enough to fit tightly in the holes. 

The pegs as well as the two edges of the boards 




Fig. 54. 



SUGGESTIONS FOR A BOY'S ROOM 6i 

should be smeared with glue before being put together. 
Then, after driving in the dowels, clamp the pieces 
together and lay them aside until the glue has thor- 
oughly dried. In order to make a neat joint between 
the two boards, it is very necessary to have the two 
edges planed perfectly true and square. 

While the boards of the drop-front are drying, you 
can prepare the inside of the box. A boy's desk should 
be supplied with plenty of pigeon-holes and drawers. 
They are as necessary as pockets are in his clothes. 
Split-up cigar-boxes may be used for these divisions, 
and, by making the upper ones of the right size, cigar- 
boxes may be fitted in them for drawers. The paper 
should be removed from the boxes as described in 
Chapter VIII. Fasten small silk-spools to the front of 
the drawers for knobs. 

When the dowelled pieces have dried, nail a small 
moulding around the two end edges and one side edge, 
mitring the ends so as to fit together as shown at A 
(Fig. 54). 

The drop-front should be hinged to the box with two 
hinges placed on the inside, as shown in Fig. 53, and 
brass chains attached to screw-eyes screwed into it and 
the inside of the box. 

For the top of the box, purchase a moulding a little 
larger than that used around the edges of the drop-front 
and mitre it at the corners, as shown in the illustration. 

Before putting any finish upon the desk, sand-paper 



62 



PROFITABLE PASTIMES 



the wood, set the nails with a nail-set, and fill all holes 
and cracks with putty. A couple of coats of white 
enamel applied to the outside will produce a very pretty 
effect, and the inside may be finished with linseed oil, 
which makes a beautiful finish for the cigar-boxes. 

The desk should be supported on two iron brackets 
(enamelled to match the desk), screwed to the wall and 
under side of the desk. 
In Fig. 55 will be found 

Another Style of Desk, which, though not as simple to 
make, may be preferred to the first design. 

Cut two boards fifteen inches long by twelve inches 
wide for the sides, and taper each from twelve inches at 

one end to eight 
inches at the other 
end. Cut a board 
twelve by thirty 
inches for the bot- 
tom and another 
eight by thirty for 
the top, and nail 
them to the end 

Fig. 55. - Another Style of Desk. ^ ^j^^^^^ ^f ^^^ ^^j^|^ 

saw the boards for the back and drop-front. Dowel 
and glue the drop-front boards together, nail a mould- 
ing around three edges, and hinge the piece to the desk, 
as in the case of the other design. 

Partition off the inside of the desk as shown in the 




SUGGESTIONS FOR A BOY'S ROOM 



^3 



illustration, and nail a moulding around the top. Finish 
the wood in the manner described for the other desk. 

An Ink-stand and Pen-tray, suitable for your desk, can 
be made out of a cigar-box, as shown in Fig. 56. Slope 
the edges with your jack-knife and cut several notches 
in them for pens 
and pencils to fit in. 
The wood should 
then be sand- 
papered and oiled. 

A Couch for the 




Fig. 56. 



Ink-stand and Pen-tray. 

cosey-corner of your room can be made out of two boxes 
about three feet long, two feet wide, and eighteen inches 
deep. 

Remove one side of each box and nail the covers on, 
after which place the two boxes end to end and fasten 




Fig. 57. — A Couch. 

them together with strips nailed across them at A, B, 
and C (Fig. 57). An incline about eighteen inches long 
should be fastened to one end, as shown in the drawing. 



64 



PROFITABLE PASTIMES 



The inside of the boxes may be partitioned off and used 
for storing away magazines and pamphlets. 

For the covering of the couch procure several yards of 
cretonne, some cotton batting or an old quilt to pad the 
top, a box of upholstering-tacks, and several dozen brass- 




A Window-seat. 



headed tacks. After spreading the padding over the couch, 
cut a piece of cretonne large enough to cover it and tack 
it to the edge of the boxes, using the upholstering-tacks 
for the purpose. Make a valance of the same material, 
gathering the cretonne so as to form a heading at the 
top, and tack it around the box. Then place the brass 
tacks along the top of the valance about two inches apart. 



SUGGESTIONS FOR A BOY'S ROOM 



65 



If a couch is too large for your room you can make 
A Window-seat, such as is shown in Fig. 58. Cut the 

arms the shape shown in the illustration and fasten them 

to the ends of the box. 

Batten the boards forming 

the box-cover on the under 

side. Then tack cretonne 

on to the cover, arms, and 

outside of the box, placing 

padding underneath the 

cretonne to make it soft, 

and line the inside of the 

box with some dainty col- 
ored goods. When this 

has been done, hinge the 

cover to the box with large 

fancy brass hinges. 

The appearance of the 

seat will be greatly im- 
proved by placing brass |||ffP'^^^^°'"~^3^-^^^l.. 

tacks along the edges of ^^ 




Fig. 59. — A Curio-cabinet. 



the arms and seat, about 

two inches apart. The 

inside of the box will make a handy receptacle for 

clothes and linen. 

For those interested in making collections of stamps, 
coins, stones, insects, etc., 

A Curio-cabinet, similar to Fig. 59, wall make it possible 



66 PROFITABLE PASTIMES 

to keep all specimens arranged in order, each set of curios 
occupying a shelf by itself. 

Such a cabinet should be made of bass or whitewood, 
as these can generally be obtained in greater widths, are 
cheaper, and less defective than other material. If you 
make your cabinet five feet high, two feet wide (inside 
measurement), and twelve inches deep, purchase twelve- 
inch boards, as these make it possible to have the sides 
in one piece and the back in two, a great advantage, as 
there will then be but one crack, and that up through 
the centre of the back. 

After cutting the side-pieces the correct length, finish 
their edges as in the drawing. Then cut nine boards 
two feet long for the shelves, which are to be placed six 
inches apart. 

Commencing at the top of each side-piece, lay off the 
thickness of a shelf, which will be about seven-eighths 
of an inch, and square the lines across the boards ; then 
lay off the next shelf six inches below, and so on down 
to the bottom. Cut along these lines to a depth of 
three-eighths of an inch with a saw, and remove the 
wood between with a chisel. When all the grooves 
have been cut, slip the shelves into them one by one, 
and nail them to the side-pieces. After fastening the 
shelves, cut the two twelve-inch boards for the back and 
nail them in place. 

While it is customary to put sash-doors on cabinets, 
this will be too difiicult a job for you to attempt. A 



SUGGESTIONS FOR A BOY'S ROOM 67 

very pretty and inexpensive door may be made as in the 
illustration. Make a frame out of two-inch strips to fit 
the opening, and stretch some green denim over it, tack- 
ing it to the inside of the frame. The ends of the strips 
forming the frame should be mitred and either nailed 
together or fastened with dowels and glue, as described 
in the construction of the desk (see Fig. 54). Hinge 
the frame to the cabinet. 

To finish the cabinet, rub it down with sand-paper, 
set the nails with a nail-set, and putty up all holes, after 
which stain the wood green, a shade darker than the 
denim panel in the front. 

Although the shelves may be simply stained, they will 
be much nicer for holding curios if covered w4th felt. 

It might be well to suggest that you number each 
curio, and make a catalogue of these, together with the 
names and any data you have concerning them. The 
catalogue may be hung on a hook upon the inside of 
the door, where it can always be found. 

A pretty set of 
■ Book-shelves to hang upon the wall can be made 
with three boards twenty-four inches long by eight 
inches wide, four dozen spools all of the same size, and 
two pieces of rope about four feet long and small 
enough to fit in the holes of the spools. By saving 
the empty spools from your mother's work-basket, and 
having your friends save their spools for you, it will 
not be very long until you have the required number. 



68 



PROFITABLE PASTIMES 



Spools upon which number thirty-six cotton thread 
comes are of the best length. 

Bore holes in the four corners of each board. Then, 
beeinnino- with the board which is to form the bottom 

shelf, pass the ropes 
down through the 
holes on one side, 
across under the 
shelf, and up 
through the holes 
on the opposite 
side. String six 
spools on each rope 
and put the ropes 
through the holes 
in the next shelf ; 
then string six more 
spools on each rope 
and run the ropes 
throuo'h the next 
or top shelf. Tie 
the ropes together 
about a foot above 
the top shelf, fring- 
ing the ends to form tassels. Figure 60 shows the 
shelves completed. 

A Blacking-case made similar to Fig. 61 is a handy 
article for a boy to have in his room. As the friction 




Fig. 60. — Spool Book-shelves. 



SUGGESTIONS FOR A BOY'S ROOM 



69 



from a rag rubbed over the shoe produces a finer polisli 
than a brush when polishing paste is used, the 1)().\ is i)i()- 
vided with an arrangement by which a rag can be rul^bed 
over the shoe without much effort (see illustration). 

Procure a box about the size of a soap or cracker- 
box, and fasten a board in it for a foot-rest, as shown at A 
in the drawing. On each 
side of this place a piece 
of a broom-handle a little 
shorter than the inside 
width of the box, and pivot 
them at the ends with wire 
nails driven through the 
sides of the box, as shown 
in the illustration. Gimlet 
holes should be made in 
the sides of the box so the 
nails will fit loosely in them. 
Procure a strip of canton- 
flannel twenty-four inches 
long by six inches wide, 
and, after sewing two brass rings to each end, pass the 
cloth under the rollers and over the foot-rest, as shown 
in the illustration. 

The lower part of the box will hold your boxes of 
blacking and the brushes. To have access to this, a 
board should be removed from the side of the box and 
hinged as at B and C in the illustration. Place a button- 




FiG. 61. — A Blackino;-case. 



70 



PROFITABLE PASTIMES 



catch just above it to keep it shut. Fasten together the 
boards forming the box-cover with battens, and hinge 
them to the end of the box. The outside of the case 
will be improved greatly if covered with denim. 

After applying the paste to the shoe, the foot should 
be slipped under the cloth which passes over the foot- 
rest. Two fingers of each hand should then be placed 
in the rings and the cloth pulled back and forth over 
the rollers until the shoe is polished. 

A Towel-rack, such as is shown in Fig. 62, is made 
in four pieces, — a board about eighteen inches long for 

the back, two arms six 
inches long, and a piece 
of broom-handle eigh- 
teen inches long. After 
cutting out the arms 
the shape shown in 
Fig. 63, bore a hole 
large enough for a broom-handle to fit in in each. Bevel 
the edges of the eighteen-inch board, and then nail it to 
the arms, driving the nails through this 
piece into the arms. Fit the piece of 

broom-handle into the holes bored for ^ 

them, and trim off the ends so that about ^^^- ^3- 
one inch projects beyond the face of each arm. 

Sand-paper the wood, and either paint or varnish it. 
Attach screw-eyes to the top of the back board and 
hang the rack by these to hooks placed in the wall. 




Fig. 62. — A Towel-rack. 




-Mri 


4 




A 





m 


CHAPTER V 
HOW TO MAKE A DOLL-HOUSE 


%i 


M. 


pj 



The average store doll-house is made of thin wood, 
which is full of defects and likely to warp, besides 
being put together in such a flimsy manner as to soon 
fall apart. The majority of these are imported houses, 
designed and planned in foreign styles, the exteriors 
being covered with clumsy ornament and gaudily painted, 
while the interiors are very poorly planned and propor- 
tioned. Americanized doll-houses are seldom seen in 
the market, and the few there are will generally be 
found very expensive. 

There is probably nothing more interesting for a boy 
to make than a doll-house. It is like building your own 
house on a small scale, the details and proportions hav- 
ing to be just as carefully worked out to make a good- 
appearing house. Try the construction of a house for 
one of your girl relatives and see how much she will 
appreciate it. Then having completed one and learned 
the many little tricks there are in doing this work, you 
will find it quicker and easier to turn out others to sell. 
Neatly made houses are always salable, and it should 

71 



72 PROFITABLE PASTIMES 

be an easy matter for you to make arrangements with a 
toy dealer in your town, to place some of your work in 
his store to sell on commission. 

The doll-house designed and detailed in this chapter 
is easily constructed and 

The Materials Required do not amount to very much. 
Boards ten inches wide and one-half inch thick are pref- 
erable for the general construction, with a few four-inch 
boards one inch thick for the base and a few other 
details. Basswood probably will be found the easiest 
wood to work with, as it is soft, straight-grained, and 
free from knots. Packing-cases may be used to advan- 
tage when they are of the right size, but they are gen- 
erally made of a cheap grade of pine, full of knots and 
other defects that make it difficult to do a good job. 

Cigar-boxes make the nicest material for the interior 
finish, and a number of all sizes should be procured for 
this purpose. Prepare the boxes for use as described in 
Chapter VIII. 

Fourpenny nails should be purchased for the rough 
carpenter work, and brads and glue for attaching finish- 
ing-strips and all light wood. Paints and other material 
are specified as required. 

As shown on the plans (Figs. 65, 66, and 67), the 
house described in this chapter is of three floors, con- 
taining nine rooms, and is in size, thirty inches wide, 
twenty inches deep, and three feet high. 

The Base, or false basement, should be made first. It 



^ -r' H 












A 




















h-3^ 




\H 3~-^ Z-M 




riG.lO. TMlRD-rLOOE 

Hg. 67 • Tmird- Floor -PLArs Paetitiom 

Figs. 65-70. — Plans of Doll-house and Patterns for the Partitions. 

73 



74 PROFITABLE PASTIMES 

consists of two four-by-one inch boards thirty inches 
long and two twenty inches long, with the ends mitred 
and fastened together in the form of a frame. Upon 
this 

Lay the First Floor, allowing but one-half inch of the 
boards to bear on the frame on all sides. Then lay off 
the first-floor plan (Fig. 65) upon this floor with a pencil 
and square, locating the partitions by means of the 
dimensions given on the plan. 

Make the Partitions A, B, and C, the shape and size 
shown in Fig. 68, and nail them to the places marked 
out for them on the floor. 

The Stairs from first to second floors (Fig. 71) should 
now be constructed as described later under the head 
of " Stairways," as it would be difficult to set them in 
place after the walls are up. 

Make the Front and Rear Walls twenty-nine inches 
wide and twenty inches high, and nail them to the edges 
of the floor. The outside surface of the walls should 
now be in line with the base. Leave the cutting of the 
windows until the rest of the house has been put 
together. The walls may be prevented from spreading 
by means of temporary braces nailed across the tops. 

Lay the Second Floor, cutting a three by ten inch stair 
opening in the place indicated on the plan (Fig. 66), and 
fasten the boards to the front and rear walls. Draw 
upon this the second-floor plan, and 

Cut Out Partitions D, E, F, and G, as shown in Fig. 69. 



■OPE r^ir^O iPH Tn.RD Fl.OO« 3*7 




SiOtS Cut in 

Eage of Floor 
for -Tops o/. 
Stringers CO Fu^n 



RearWaLL 



3 '<'0 0'='£ri'r-'G l rn SECOiND FLOOR 




^Floor- Made of Cigar Boxes 



Fig. 71. — Details of Inside Stairs. 
75 



76 PROFITABLE PASTIMES 

After nailing these partitions to the places marked 
out for them, and building in the stairs, 

Lay the Third Floor (Fig. 67), cutting a three by seven 
inch stair opening, and fastening the boards in place as 
you did those of the second floor. 

Stairways. — While each stairway should be built 
before the floor above is laid, in order that the work can 
more easily be done, they have been left for description 
here, that they might be spoken of in a general way. 
In Figs. 71, 72, 73, 74, and 75 will be found complete 
details for these. 

The first things to prepare are 

The Stair Stringers, or supports for the steps (treads and 
risers). Cut from a piece of cardboard what is known as 

The Pitch-board, the pattern by which to lay out the 
steps (Fig. 73). Then draw a line lengthwise upon a 
thin strip of wood {AB in Fig. 72), and lay off the pitch- 
board on this as shown in Fig. 72 — sixteen times for 
the first to second story stairs and fifteen times for the 
second to third story stairs. Draw the line DE parallel 
to AB, and the lines CD and ^/^as shown. Then cut 
out the stringer along the lines CDEF, being careful 
in doing so not to split off the corners. Prepare two 
stringers for each flight of stairs. 

The Treads and Risers should be cut as shown in 
Fig. 74, and the 

Newel-posts and Hand-rails as shown in Fig. 75. 
Make a small groove in the bottom of the hand-rail 



HOW TO MAKE A DOLL-HOUSE 



77 



as shown in the drawing. Toothpicks are of just the 



right size for 



The Balusters. — As brads are hkely to spht the thin 
cigar-box wood, the staircases should be put together 
with glue. First fasten the stringers in place, cutting 



.Second Floor 



FirstrFLooK 



D E 

First- TO -SecoKid Storv Strimgers to be. Laid out Like This 

■Second Floor- 

'^-c? 



TThird Floor- 




Groove- 



Se; COMD -TO ■ "Third Story Strimgers 

Fig. 12 



Hand Rail 



^Cap £' Square 
Q'Thick- 

^riewel Post Made- 
of Three -Strips 
J x-^-GLued Together 



FiG.7 5 

Balustrade 

Delt-ails. 




Tooth -PICK 
Bai-usters. 



PIG 73 
PiTCM- Board- 



y 

/ 
/ 
/ ... „ ,.. 



/,<^7?isers 3g xg 



\\\\\\\\\\'j 



Fig. 74 

Treads ArsDRiSEiRs- 



Figs. 72-75. — Details of Inside Stairs. 



a slot in the edge of the floors for the tops to set in, as 
shown in Fig. 71. Then glue on the treads and risers, 
and cut the bottom of the newel-post to fit over the 
second step. The lower end of the toothpick balusters 
are set into slits cut with a knife in the treads, and the 
upper ends fit in the groove cut in the hand-rail. 



78 



PROFITABLE PASTIMES 



The Balustrades around the stair openings on the 
second and third floors are made in the same way 
(see Fig. 71). As finished floors are to be laid in the 
halls, as described later, it will be well at this point to 
fasten a strip from a cigar-box around the stair openings, 
upon which to fasten the newels and in which to stick 
the ends of the balusters. 

The drawings give every detail and measurement 
necessary for the making of these stairs, and everything 



n a tform Z-k" x 4 j' 
, / 5 



— 2- 



'Balu^trade 
1 " SNude 



Strinpers, 
Treads-and 
Risers Sarne-as 
forJnside Stams, 
except length o f- 
Treads and Risers 




Fig. 76. — The Front Steps. 



will work out correctly if the directions are closely 
followed. 

The Front Steps are made as shown in Fig. 76. Cut 
out two balustrades the shape and size shown in the 
drawing. Then prepare two stringers of five steps, 
cutting them exactly the same as for the other stairs, 



HOW TO MAKE A DOLL-HOUSE 



79 



and glue them to the inner faces of the balustrades. 
The treads and risers are the same as for the other 
stairs, except that they are four inches in length. Cut 
the top platform two and one-half inches wide. 

The Rear Steps may be built similar to the front, or 
may be made simpler by leaving off the risers and 
balustrade. 

The Ends of the House should measure twenty inches 
square. Fasten the boards together with battens at top 
and bottom, and hinge 
them to the rear wall 
(see plans and Fig. 64). 
Small hooks on the 
ends of the house will 
make it possible to 
fasten them shut. 

The roof is what is 
known as 

The Gambrel or Oc- 
tagonal Roof, and con- 
sists of two eight and 
two nine inch boards 




Fig. ']']. — Make Gable-ends like This. 



thirty-four inches long. Before fastening these in place, 
it will be necessary to make 

The Gable-ends, w^hich are cut out as shown in Fig. "]"]. 
Make the partition between the nursery and ball-room 
{H) in the same way, with a door cut in it, as shown 
in Fig. 70. 



So PROFITABLE PASTIMES 

Fasten the partition and gable-ends in place, after 
which nail the roof boards B and C (Fig. 70) to the top, 
allowing them to project over each gable. The lower 
boards A and D should be hinged to these, so they 
may be raised to get at the upper story. The edges of 
the boards must be bevelled in order to make perfect 
joints. 

When the work has proceeded thus far, cut 
The Door and Window Openings in the places indicated 
upon the plans and Fig. 64, first boring holes in the four 
corners of each window and door space ; and then con- 
necting them with a compass-saw. With the exception 
of the front and rear door, and the windows in the base- 
ment and gable-ends, make all openings three by five 
inches, and two inches above the floor. The casement 
window openings in the gable-ends are to be four by 
five inches and extend to the floor. Cut three-by- 
seven-inch openings for the doors, and make the base- 
ment window openings two by three inches. 

Figs. 78, 79, 80, 81, and 82 show the construction of 
The Dormer Windows. These are made from cigar- 
boxes. For the three dormers, you will require six 
pieces the shape of A for the sides, three of B for the 
gable-ends, and six of C for the roof (see Figs. 80, 
81, and 82). With the different parts cut out, it is a 
simple matter to fasten them together on the roof, by 
means of glue and small brads. The glass is bound to 
the ends of the side-pieces at JJ and £ with strips of 



/ "■ 




/ o 




/ o 




/ ? 




/ 


C\] 


/ ^ 


03 


/ " < 


d 


/ '- 


L 


/ z 




/ o 





r 



^ o 






V) d) L 



Tl 






f- .S --j 




I^n^ INI 






8i 



82 PROFITABLE PASTIMES 

linen, as shown in Figs. y8 and 79, and the gable-end 
sets on the top edge. The dormers should be placed 
directly over the lower windows and in line with the 
front wall (see Fig. 79). 

Old four-by-five camera plates may be used for 

The Window Glass, by cutting them down to the 
required dimensions — three by five inches for the first 
and second stories, and two by three inches for the 
dormer and basement windows. Four-by-five plates are 
the right size for the casement windows. 

As the basement is to represent stone, there will be 
no finish around the openings, and the glass will have 
to be held in place with cigar-box strips on the inside 
and putty on the outside, as shown in Figs. 83 and 84. 

The glass should be fastened in the first and second 
story windows by means of putty and strips of cigar- 
boxes (see Figs. 85, 86, and 8y). We will make the 
inside and outside trim the same to simplify matters; 
so cut two sets of strips for each window, making them 
the shape and size shown in Figs. 85 and Sy, Fasten 
the outside strips in place first, then slip the ends of the 
glass into the centre of the wall and nail on the inside 
strips. Fill in the spaces between the glass and strips 
with putty to hold the glass firmly in place. 

The Casement Windows (Fig. 88) are made similarly, 
with the addition of a quarter of an inch strip of a 
cigar-box glued up the centre of the glass, to give the 
appearance of double windows hinged to swing in. 



per St 



Glass- 3 xs' 
- Show-By Dotted Linel^\^ 

First-sUp Sill Din 
Place Then rest 
ends of A and-B on 
Sill. Set Cap C on- 
jznds of A and B 






6f*f — 



.-^r-i 



-^3^"^ 



riG 85 

WiMDOw Trim 
First amd Secomd Story 



■' — ^Puttif D Pi/ffy-~4 



T^ 



Fig 86 



^f -i 



''^Oi^tside of 
PLAri OF WirSDOWS Wmdow 






--^'^. 



Fig. 87 WirHDow Silus 













1 






Wood 
strip 



























Door- J" » 7- 


' nnob 


Oiled Panel. 


2-x5i" 



Tig 89 Fromt Door 











^ — ''^'-. 


Wall. 


-1. 


FIG 90 


J 


VJALl. 


11- 




-J| 



Plan of door 



Fig 91 






Door Sill 



strip. 



riG 83 

Daseme/nt Windows 



?-Po«y Fig. 8 4. 



Fig. 88 Casement Windows Pla/^ 

Figs. 83-91. — Details of Windows. 

83 



84 PROFITABLE PASTIMES 

Narrow strips of paper glued to the glass, as shown 
in Figs, j^, ^:^, 85, and ^d>, will produce the effect of 

Divided Glass and upper and lower sash. 

The Door Trim (Figs. 89, 90, and 91) is put in place 
the same as the window trim, but instead of placing the 
door in the centre of the wall, it should be set flush with 
the inside trim (see K, Z, and Mm plan, Fig. 90), and 
is hinged by means of a linen strip glued to the edge of 
the door y]/and strip L. The door-jambs are cased with 
strips / and /. 

The rear door may be made simpler than this by using 
a plain strip for a cap. 

Make the Door out of a piece of cigar-box. 

The drawings give all the necessary measurements for 
door and window strips, and you will find it a simple 
matter to cut them out with a sharp knife. 

After putting the trim upon all of the windows and 
the doors, cut a number of strips of wood an eighth 
of an inch thick and half an inch wide for 

Outside Trimmings, and nail them to each corner of 
the house, around the edges of each gable-end, and 
around the top of the basement. Purchase some narrow 
moulding for the cornice and nail it to the edges of the 
roof boards, being careful to make neat mitres at the 
corners. 

The house can more easily be moved about if mounted 
upon 

Casters. To put these on, cut four pieces of two- 



HOW TO MAKE A DOLL-HOUSE 



85 



by-four about three inches long, fasten a caster to each, 
and nail one block inside each corner of the foundation 
frame. 

The exterior of the house is now complete with the 
exception of 

The Chimneys. These should be made up of four 
pieces, two of which should have bird's-mouth cuts 
made in the end, as shown 
in Fig. 92, to make the 
chimney fit over the top 
ridge of the roof. The 
side edges of the pieces 
should be mitred and fitted 
together. Nail a strip of ^"x^" 
wood, half an inch wide, 
around the tops of the 
chimneys for caps. You 
will find it easier to 

Paint the Chimneys be- 
fore fastening them to the 
roof. Make the brickwork 
red and the caps white, 
and with a small brush 
and ruler stripe off the 
mortar joints. When the 
paint has thoroughly dried, nail the chimneys on to the 
ridge of the roof in line with the front windows (see 
illustration of completed house). 




Bird's Mouth Cut-- 
TO PixHiDGE OF Roof- 
Fig. 92. — Construction of Chimneys. 



86 



PROFITABLE PASTIMES 



You will want 

A Mantel and Fire-place in the living-room of the 
house, and it had better be built in at this point. 
Figure 93 shows about the simplest form of mantel 
you can make, and one that presents a very neat appear- 
ance. It is made out of cigar-box strips painted to 




Fig. 93. — The Living-room Mantel. 

represent brick, with stone hearth and mantel-shelf. It 
measures seven inches wide, four and five-eighths inches 
from the base to the top of the shelf, and has a fire-place 
opening four inches wide and two and one-half inches 
high. 

Figure 94 shows the patterns for the cutting of the 
various pieces required to make up the mantel. A, 



HOW TO MAKE A DOLL-HOUSE 



87 



the front piece, has an opening cut in it for the fire- 
place, as shown in the drawing. Cut two strips similar 
to B for the ends of the mantel, one the size of C for the 
back of the fire-place, two of D for the sides of the fire- 




i- 



— 4-"— 



I 



i 



B 



X 





Fig. 94. — Construction of Mantel. 



88 PROFITABLE PASTIMES 

place, and one of E for the mantel-shelf. These pieces, 
with the exception of E, should be painted red, and 
striped off, when dry, with white paint to represent 
brick. It will be much easier to do the painting before 
fastening the pieces in their proper places. First divide 
the length and breadth of the pieces into about the 
number of spaces shown in Fig. 93 with a lead pencil. 
Then with a small brush, and straight-edge for a guide, 
trace over the pencil lines with white lead. Be careful 
in striping the brick to get the courses the same upon 
each piece so they will correspond when the pieces are 
put together. 

The Hearth is made out of a strip seven inches long 
by two inches wide. Upon this the mantel should be 
put together with the pieces prepared. Figure 93 shows 
the location of each piece, and with the aid of glue and 
some small brads it will be a simple matter to complete 
the mantel. The edges of the strips had best be mitred 
to make neat joints. Paint the hearth and mantel-shelf 
white. 

The mantel should be fastened to the centre of par- 
tition B in the living-room (see plan. Fig. 65). 

Andirons should, of course, accompany the fire-place. 
These may be made as shown in Fig. 95. They consist 
of two pieces of cigar-boxes cut the shape of A and B 
{A an inch and one-half by an inch and one-quarter, and 
B an inch and one-half long), with the end of B glued 
in a slot cut in the lower part of A. The feet and the 



HOW TO MAKE A DOLL-HOUSE 



89 



top of A and the foot of B are small brass-headed 
upholstering-tacks driven into the wood, which give the 
andirons a trim appearance. Paint the strips black. 

Set the andirons upon the 
hearth with the ends project- 
ing into the fire-place, and pile 
several nicely shaped twigs 
upon them for logs. 

The Interior Woodwork re- 
mains to be put on. Cigar- 
boxes make excellent imitation 
hardwood floors, for the halls, 
the ball-room, and nursery. 
Select as large pieces as pos- 
sible, and fit them on the 
floors with close joints. Nail 
them down with small brads. 

Make the door casings from 
the same material, cutting the strips the shape and size 
of those used for the outside doors (Fig. 89). It is not 
advisable to hang inside doors, as they are easily broken 
off, and seldom work satisfactorily. 

A chair-rail should be made in the dining-room of 
quarter-inch strips fastened to the walls three inches 
above the floor. 

Make baseboards in each room out of three-quarter 
inch strips, and picture mouldings out of strips an eighth 
of an inch wide. 




Fig. 95. — Andiron. 



90 PROFITABLE PASTIMES 

After completing the carpenter work of the house, 

Set all Nail-heads with your nail-set, putty these holes 
and all others resulting from cracks and defects, and 
sand-paper the rough surfaces. If the woodwork is to 
be finished in its natural color, by varnishing or oiling 
its surface, color the putty to match the wood. 

Paint the House a cream color, with white trimmings 
and a green roof, using yellow-ochre and white lead 
(mixed) for the walls ; white lead for the trimmings, bal- 
ustrade of front steps, chimney-caps, and striping of 
brickwork ; dark olive green for the roof, and treads and 
risers of the front steps ; and lamp-black for striping the 
stonework of the basement. The painting of the chim- 
neys and fire-place has been described. 

Paint the front door on both sides with white enamel 
or white lead, with the exception of a panel in the centre, 
which should be oiled as shown in Fig. 89. This will 
give the appearance of a white enamelled door with a 
mahogany panel set in it. 




CHAPTER VI 

ANOTHER DOLL-HOUSE AND 
STABLE 




Photographs of another style of doll-house are shown 
in Figs. 96 and 97. This house was built by the author 
for a little relative some ten years ago, and is still in 
perfect condition, as the photographs show. 

Packing-cases were used for its construction, with 
cut-up cigar-boxes for window-casings, door-jambs, fin- 
ished floors, etc., and small mouldings for the outside 
trimmings. 

The inside arrangement and the general construction 
of the house is so nearly like the design in the preced- 
ing chapter, that most of the details and the mode of 
construction may be followed in building it. If boxes 
are used, the dimensions will have to be figured out to 
suit, unless the boxes are pulled apart and the boards 
cut to the sizes shown in the illustrations of this chapter. 

The Floor Plans, which will be found in Figs. 98, 99, 
and 100, give the sizes of the rooms, and the patterns 
for the making of 

The Partitions are shown in Figs. 10 1 and 102. In 
cutting out the second-floor partitions (Fig. 102), mitre 

91 



92 PROFITABLE PASTIMES 

one edge of E and F to allow for the bedroom door 
opening, shown upon the plan, and mitre the edges of 
G to fit between them above the door. The mitring 
is shown in the drawings (Fig. 102). 

Besides cutting a stair opening in the second floor, 
make an opening three by five inches in the second 
and third floors for 

The Elevator-shaft. Care must be taken to have these 
openings exactly over one another. Make the opening 
in the second floor six by eight inches in the place indi- 
cated upon the plan. This will allow for the elevator 
shaft and stairway. No stairway has been built to the 
third story, as the elevator serves the purpose, and one 
would take up too much of the ball-room space. 

The Side Walls should measure nineteen inches wide 
by twenty-four inches high, and the other two walls thirty 
inches wide by twenty-four inches high. That portion of 

The Rear Wall enclosing the kitchen and bath-room 
is hinged to open (see Fig. 98), and 

The Front Wall is made in two sections, each hinged 
to a strip of wood an inch and one-half wide nailed to 
the two edges of the house, as shown in Fig. 96. 

The Windows are four by five inches, so four-by-five 
camera plates can be used for the glass. 

The Roof had best be made in two sections, each meas- 
uring twenty-eight inches long by twenty-four inches 
wide. Fasten the boards together with battens on the 
under side and, after mitring the upper edge of each, 



LivirsiG' 
Room 



D 



Kn-CME:M 



Haul 



Room 



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TT 



Fi G 98 riRST • rtJoo^ Pla/n 




4"-+- 4" 4- 5" -4- A-" -4 — 5"—i- A-"-i- A"-J 

Fig. 99. Second Floor PLArs 



Ume of roof 




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101 i 



First Flook PAETixior^s 

19" — 




Pig. 102. 
Seicomd 
Floor 
Par-tjtioins 

Fig 100 Tmii^d ri^ooR PlaK 

Figs. 98-102. — Plans of Doll-house and Patterns for Partitions. 

93 



94 



PROFITABLE PASTIMES 



nail them to the house so that the ridge is fifteen inches 
above the third floor. Then nail a board nineteen inches 
long by ten inches wide in the peak of the roof {D in 
Fig. 104), and a narrow strip three inches from each side 

wall {K and L in Fig. 100). 
These cut off the triangular 
shape of the ball-room and give 
it a better appearance. 

The Chimney is made the same 
as those for the other house, with 
the exception of the cap, which 
is built up of strips of cigar-boxes 
to represent corbelled brick (see 
Fig. 103). These strips should 
be three-sixteenths of an inch 
wide, and fastened in place by 
means of small brads. 

An Elevator is something which 
is found in but few doll-houses. 
It was built in this house, think- 
ing it might please the young 
mistress, and proved such a suc- 
cess that the scheme has been 
worked out carefully in Figs. 
104, 105, 106, 107, and 108, that you may include it in 
the house you build. 

The cutting of the elevator-shaft has already been 
described. For material, procure two small pulleys, such 




Fig. 103. 



Fig. 105. 





tiaU 



Fig. 107. 




ouble Potoi'ed' 
Tack, 



Fig. 108. 




Fig. 104. — Front View of Elevator-shaft 
and Stairs. 



Figs. 



[04- 1 08. — Details of the Elevator. 
95 



96 PROFITABLE PASTIMES 

as are shown in Fig. io6, four feet of brass chain, six 
feet of No. 12 wire, half a dozen double-pointed tacks or 
very small screw-eyes, a short piece of lead pipe, and a 
cigar-box. Make 

The Car out of the cigar-box, cutting it down to two 
and one-quarter inches wide, three and three-quarters 
inches deep, and seven inches high (see Fig. 107). 
Place two of the double-pointed tacks or screw-eyes in 
each side of the car for the guide-wires to run through 
and another in the centre of the top from which to attach 
the brass chain. 

The Guide-wires are made of very heavy wire that will 
not easily bend. Cut two of a length to reach from the 
first floor to the ball-room ceiling, and after running them 
through the tacks in the sides of the car, stick their ends 
into small holes bored at E, F, G, and H (Fig. 104). 
The upper holes should be bored through the ball-room 
ceiling, while the lower ones need be bored but part way 
through the first floor. Care must be taken to have 
these holes in the correct position, so the elevator will 
run up and down upon the wires without striking the 
sides of the shaft. The easiest way of fastening the wires 
in place is to run the upper ends through the holes, 
until the lower ends can be set into their sockets, and 
then drive two double-pointed tacks over the top of each 
wire, as shown at E and i^in Fig. 104. 

Now run the elevator up to the top of the shaft, and 
mark upon the ceiling where the screw-eye in the top of 



ANOTHER DOLL-HOUSE AND A STABLE 97 

the car strikes. At this point bore a hole through the 
ceiHng and two inches back of it bore another hole, 
through which to run the weight-chain. When this has 
been done, cut a short block of wood to fit the peak of 
the roof and 

Screw the Pulleys to it two inches apart (Fig. 105). 
Fit the block in the peak of the roof, centring the front 
pulley over the top of the car as nearly as possible, and 
drive a couple of nails through the roof boards into it to 
hold it in place temporarily. Then 

Attach the Chain to the tack in the top of the car, slip 
a piece of lead pipe about an inch long over the chain, 
allowing it to set on the top of the car to make the latter 
heavier (Fig. 107), and run the chain up through the first 
hole in the ceiling, over the pulleys, and down through 
the second hole. To the end of the chain attach a piece 
of lead pipe for 

The Elevator-weight (see Fig. 108). — This should be 
just heavy enough to make a perfect balance between 
it and the car, which can be obtained by whittling off 
the end of the pipe until the weight of the two is the 
same. Make the chain of sufficient length so the weight 
will rest upon the first floor when the car is at the third 
floor. You can now tell whether or not the pulleys are 
in the right positions. When they have been adjusted 
properly, nail the block firmly in place. 

The Gable-ends. — The front gable-end consists of four 
pieces {A, B, C, and D, in Fig. 109), the dimensions for 



98 



PROFITABLE PASTIMES 



the cutting of which are given in the illustration. After 
preparing these, nail A, B, and Cin their proper positions 
in the gable of the roof, and trim the edges of D, if they 
need be, to fit between. To prevent the movable section 
from pushing in too far, it will be necessary to nail a 

7 




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'spring yTH] D nJ 


Catch 


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i 



22" 



Fig. 109. — The Front Gable-end. 



narrow strip of wood to the roof and third floor just 
inside of it. The rear gable is made in one piece, and 
is fastened in place permanently. 

The movable gable and all hinged portions should 
have 

Spring-catches with which to shut up and lock the 
house (see the illustrations). 

The Stairway is shown in Fig. 104, and the details for 
its construction will be found in Figs, no, in, 112, 113. 
This stairway is made in two parts, with a platform 
between. Cut a block of wood the shape and size shown 
in Fig. no for the platform, with notches at A and B 
for the tops of the lower stringers to fit in. Then 



ANOTHER DOLL-HOUSE AND A STABLE 



99 



Prepare Two String- 
ers of thirteen risers 
similar to Fig. 1 1 1 
and two stringers of 
five risers similar to 
Fig. 1 1 2, laying them 
off as described in 
the preceding chapter 
by means of a pitch- 
board similar to Fig. 
113. After cutting 
out these pieces, fas- 
ten the tops of the 
lower stringers in the 
notches A and B in 
the platform, and nail 
the platform in its 
proper position in the 
corner of the hall. 
When this has been 
done, nail the bottoms 
of the upper stringers 
^E in Fig. 112) to the 
sides of the platform 
at C and D, and set 
the tops in notches 
cut in the edge of the 
second floor. 



3"- 



r\G.\\o. 

Stair -Platform 

3" S<?UARE. 






■^Notches- 
forStrlngers- 



B |C 

HA 




PJTCH -BoATeD 





Fig. 112. 
Opfei2 
Stri/ngers 
Figs. 110-113. — Details of Stairs. 



lOO 



PROFITABLE PASTIMES 



The Treads and Risers are made the same as in Fig. 74 
(Chap. V), except that the depth of the risers is in- 
creased to five-eighths of an inch. Cut another platform 
from a cigar-box to fit over the rough one. 

Build a Balustrade up the side of the stairs and around 
the elevator enclosures, using the scheme shown in 
Chapter V (Figs. 71 and 75). 

All Other Details not mentioned here will be the same 
as described in Chapter V, including the painting and 
finishing of the house. 

How TO MAKE THE StABLE 

The stable shown in Figs. 114 and 115, and in the 
background of Fig. 96, will go nicely with the house 
described in this or the preceding chapter. Its con- 




m 


1 


i 



Fig. 114. — Exterior of Stable. 



ANOTHER DOLL-HOUSE AND A STABLE loi 

struction is very simple. The dimensions are twenty- 
four inches wide, twelve inches deep, and twenty-two 
inches high, and the barn contains five stalls on the 
ground floor and a hay-loft above. 




Fig. 115. — Interior of Stable. 

To build the stable according to the drawings, a box 
ten by twelve by twenty-four inches should be procured 
for 

The First Story. — If you have a box of different pro- 
portions it will be a simple matter to make such altera- 
tions in the details as it will require. 

The Roof is made in two sections, each fifteen by eigh- 
teen inches, and is fastened to the top of the box so that 
the peak is twenty-two inches above the bottom. 



102 



PROFITABLE PASTIMES 



The Gable-end is made in four pieces, as shown in Fig. 
1 1 6, A, B, and C, to be nailed in place, and D to be 




Fig. 1 1 6. — Front Gable-end. 

movable as in the case of the doll-house. Make a three- 
by-five-inch window in the centre of D, and fasten the 

glass in place with 
strips cut as de- 
scribed in Chapter 
V. Strips should 
be nailed to the 
roof just inside of 
the movable sec- 
tion to prevent the 
latter from setting 
in too far, and a spring catch fastened to C and D as 
shown, to hold the movable section in place. 

Figure 117 gives the patterns and measurements for 
The Stall Partitions, four of which should be cut out 
and fastened to the floor of the stable four inches apart, or 
so they will divide the inside width into five equal stalls. 




Fig. 117. — Stall Partitions. 



ANOTHER DOLL-HOUSE AND A STABLE 



103 



The Feed-troughs are made out of two strips of cigar- 
boxes fitted between the stalls, as shown in Figs. 1 1 5 and 
117, and are fastened in 



place by means of brads 
and glue. Above the 
stalls cut 

Small Windows an inch 
and one-half square in the 
rear wall. These are the 
ventilating windows for 
the stalls, and may be left 
open. 

Figure 1 1 8 shows the 
construction of 

A Ladder to the hay- 
loft. This is made out 
of two sticks twelve 
inches long, with strips 
of cigar-boxes two inches 
long glued to them half 
an inch apart, as shown 
in the drawing. Cut away 
a section of the hay-loft 
floor two inches square 




Fig. 118. 



Ladder to Hay-loft. 

and stick the end of the ladder up through the open- 
ing, fastening the uprights to the edge of the floor (see 
Fig. 118). 

A stick about three inches long, with a very small 



104 PROFITABLE PASTIMES 

pulley attached near the end, should be fastened in the 
peak of the roof for a 

Feed-hoist (see Fig. 114). 

The first story has 

A Drop-front, as shown in Figs. 114 and 115. This 
is made from the box-cover. Fasten the boards together 
with battens placed upon the inside, and hinge it to the 
bottom of the stable. Nail two cleats to the under side 
of the floor (see Fig. 114) to lift it off the ground, just 
enough to allow the front to drop without springing its 
hinges. 

When the front is down it forms an incline upon 
which to run the horses into the stable. For this reason 
it is not advisable to cut an opening in it, but merely 

Represent a Stable Door on the outside (see Fig. 114). 
This is done with paint and a fine brush. First paint 
a green panel in the centre of the front, and then mark 
oE a couple of panels within this space with black paint, 
and stripe them diagonally to represent beaded-boards. 

With strips of wood half an inch wide make 

A Simple Trim around the door, the sides of the stable, 
and around the gable, as shown in the illustration. 

When the cai-penter work has been finished. 

Paint the Inside of the stable white, and the outside 
the same colors as used for the doll-houses (see descrip- 
tion on page 90, Chap. V). 




CHAPTER VII 

FURNISHING THE DOLL-HOUSE 




With the carpenter work of a doll-house completed, 
the finishing of the inside, — wall papering and painting, 
— and the selection of furniture for the various rooms, 
remain to be done. This requires as much care as the 
building of the house, and while any boy can do the 
work, the help of a sister will perhaps simplify matters 
and give to the rooms a daintier appearance. 

The Walls and Ceiling of the kitchen and bath-room 
should be painted with white lead or white enamel. For 
the other rooms select paper having a small design, such 
as is to be found on most ceiling papers. If you have 
ever watched the paper-hanger at work, you have noticed 
he puts on the ceiling first, allowing the paper to run 
down the walls a little way all around instead of trim- 
ming it off. Then he hangs the wall paper, and if there 
is no border to cover the joints of the ceiling and wall 
papers he carries the wall paper up to the ceiling. Use 
flour paste to stick on the paper, and a cloth or photo- 
graph-print roller to smooth out the wrinkles. The din- 
ing-room should have a wainscot of dark paper below 

105 



io6 PROFITABLE PASTIMES 

the chair-rail, and a paper with Httle or no figure upon it 
above. 

All Hardwood Floors, the stairs, door and window casings, 
baseboards, and picture mouldings should be varnished 
thoroughly or given several coats of boiled linseed-oil. 

All floors, with the exception of the kitchen, bath-' 
room, and hardwood floors, should be fitted with 

Carpets. — If you do not happen to have suitable 
scraps on hand, they can be procured at almost any fur- 
nishing store where they make up carpets. Select pieces 
with as small patterns as possible. The floors of the bath- 
room and kitchen should be covered with oilcloth. 

Rugs for the hardwood floors may be made out of 
scraps of carpet. 

Window-shades may be made for each window out of 
linen, and tacked to the top casing so that the bottom 
of the curtain reaches just above the centre of the 
opening. Each window should also have 

Lace Curtains made out of scraps of lace. They 
should either be tacked above the windows or hung 
upon poles made out of No. 12 wire, cut in lengths 
to fit the windows. Screw small brass hooks into the 
top window-casings for the poles -to hang upon. 

Handsome Portieres for the doorways can be made with 
beads and with the small hollow straws sold for use in 
kindergartens. For the 

Bead Portieres, cut threads as long as the height of the 
door and string the beads upon them, alternating the 



FURNISHING THE DOLL-HOUSE 107 

colors in such a way as to produce patterns. Then tie 
the strings together to a piece of wire the width of 
the doorway, and fasten the wire in the opening. The 

Straw Portieres are made similarly. 

From magazine illustrations you can select 

Suitable Pictures for each room, but if you are handy 
with brush and pencil you may prefer to make the 
pictures yourself. These may be mounted upon card- 
board and have their edges bound with passe-partout 
paper to give the effect of frames, or frames may be cut 
out of cardboard and pasted to them. Hang the pictures 
to the picture moulding with thread. 

A Cosey-corner may be fitted up in the ball-room by 
fastening a strip of a cigar-box in one corner an inch 
and one-half above the floor for the seat, and hanging 
draperies on each side of it. Pillows may be made for it 
out of scraps of silk stuffed with cotton. 

A doll-house properly proportioned in every detail, 
including the selection of its furniture, is pleasing to 
look at, and is to be desired much more than some 
of the specimens to be found in the stores. These very 
often have parlor chairs larger than the mantel, beds 
that either fill two-thirds of the bedroom space or are 
so small they are hidden from view by the chairs, and 
other furniture accordingly, all having been selected 
without any thought as to size or fitness. 

Care must be taken, in buying the furniture, to have 
the pieces suitable to the rooms. It will no doubt 



io8 PROFITABLE PASTIMES 

require more time than to purchase the first sets you 
come across, but when you have completed the selec- 
tions, the result will be a much better appearing doll- 
house. 

By carefully searching the toy-shops you are almost 
certain of finding what you want for the various rooms, 
as about everything imaginable in furniture has been 
manufactured. Porcelain bath-tubs, wash-basins with 
real faucets and running water, gilt furniture, chande- 
liers, and such articles are tempting to buy. But it is 
rather expensive to fit up a house in this way, for, 
though each piece may not amount to very much, they 
count up very quickly. 

The suggestions for the making of cigar-box furniture 
in the following chapter, and the cork furniture in 
Chapter XXVIII, should give you plenty of material 
for furniture and save you the expense of buying this 
part of the furnishings for your house. 




CHAPTER VIII 

DOLL-FURNITURE 




The metal furniture which you can buy is very pretty 
when it is new, but this new appearance does not last 
long after it has come into a youngster's possession, for 
the pieces are very slender and delicate, and thus easily 
broken. 

Wooden furniture is the most durable kind, and plain 
and simple pieces will generally outlast the fancy ones. 
The designs illustrated in this chapter make very sub- 
stantial pieces, as there are no spindle legs or fancy 
arms to break off. They follow the lines of the mission 
furniture, that simple style used in the early American 
mission schools, and which is to-day being extensively 
made in handsome pieces for the furnishings of modern 
homes. You will find the 

Miniature Mission Furniture, illustrated and described 
in this chapter, simple to make and something which is 
easy to sell, for there is nothing like it at present upon 
the market. 

Cigar-boxes furnish the nicest material for making 

109 



no PROFITABLE PASTIMES 

this furniture, and the various parts can be cut to the 
right shape and size with 

A Gig- or Scroll-saw. Procure small brads and glue 
with which to fasten the pieces together. 

To prepare the Cigar-boxes for use, place them in a 
tub of boiling water and let them remain there until the 
paper labels readily pull off. Do not use a knife in 
removing the paper, as it is liable to roughen the 
wood. The paper will come off by allowing it to soak 
long enough. When the boxes are clean, set them in 
the sun to dr}', after binding the covers to the backs 
to prevent them from warping. Pull the boxes apart 
when they are thoroughly dry, and throw out such 
pieces as have printing upon them, for these would spoil 
the appearance of the furniture if used. 

In order to simplify the matter of cutting the parts 
that make the furniture, the cun^ed pieces have been 
drawn out carefully on page iii,so they can be laid 
off upon the strips of cigar-boxes without any trouble, 
by the process of 

Enlarging by Squares. — These drawings are shown 
one-quarter of their full size (half their width and half 
their height). To enlarge them procure a piece of 
cardboard nine by thirteen inches, or a little larger 
than twice the size of the drawing each way, and divide 
it into squares just twice the size of those on page iii. 
That will make sixteen squares in the width of the card- 
board and twenty-four in the length, each half an inch 



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Figs, i 19-126. — Patterns for Furniture. 



112 PROFITABLE PASTIMES 

square. In order to get the squares spaced equally, it 
is best to lay off the points first with a ruler along the 
top, bottom, and two sides of the sheet of cardboard, 
and then connect the points with the ruler and a sharp 
lead-pencil. Then number the squares as in the illus- 
tration, using the figures along the sides and letters 
across the top and bottom of the sheet. 

With the sheet of cardboard thus prepared it is a 
simple matter to 

Reproduce the Drawings of Figs. 119 to 126 by locating 
the points of the curves and corners of the pieces, as 
shown in the illustrations, in corresponding positions 
in the squares on your cardboard sheet. The curves 
may be drawn in by eye, after locating them with 
reference to their surrounding squares, but the surest 
way of enlarging them accurately is by laying off the 
points where the curve strikes each horizontal and 
vertical line in the illustration, upon the enlarged draw- 
ing. These points can then be connected with a curved 
line. 

Make all of the lines heavy so they can be distin- 
guished from your guide lines, and after carefully going 
over the drawing, comparing it with that on page in 
to see that no mistake has been made in locating the 
points in enlarging, cut the various pieces apart. These 
give you 

The Patterns with which to mark out the pieces on the 
wood. 



DOLL-FURNITURE 



113 



We will first note the construction of 

The Chairs shown in Figs. 127 and 128. These are 
four and one-half inches high, two inches wide, and an 
inch and one-half deep. Cut the back for the chair 
in Fig. 127 four and three-eighths inches high and an 
inch and three-quarters wide, the sides by the pattern 
in Fig. 119, and the seat an inch and one-quarter by 




Fig. 127. 



Chairs. 




Fig. 12 



an inch and three-quarters. With the pieces cut out, 
fasten them together with brads and glue, placing the 
seat between the arms and back so that it is an inch 
and one-half above the base. 

Cut the back for the other chair (Fig. 128) four and 
one-half inches high by two inches wide, the seat an 
inch and a quarter by an inch and three-quarters, and 



114 



PROFITABLE PASTIMES 




the sides an inch and 
three-eighths wide by two 
and one-half high. To get 
the curve in the bottom 
edge of the side-pieces, use 
the pattern in Fig. 119. 

The Settee (Fig. 129) 
should have its sides cut 
by the pattern of Fig. 1 20. 
Make the back-piece three 
and three-quarters inches 
wide and three and one- 
quarter inches high, and 
the seat three and three- 
quarters inches by an inch 
and one-half. Fasten the seat against the back an inch 
and one-half above the 
base. 

Tables for the living-room, 
dining-room, bedroom, ball- 
room, and nursery of a doll- 
house may be patterned 
after the designs of Figs. 
1 30 and 131. These should 
be two and one-half inches 
high to be of proper pro- 
portion for the chairs. 

The pieces necessary to fig. 130. — a Table. 



Fig. 129. — a Settee. 




DOLI^FURNITURE 



115 



make Fig. 130 are a top two inches square, two sides 
an inch and one-half wide by two and one-half inches 
high, and a shelf an inch and one-quarter square. Fasten 
the pieces together as in the illustration, placing the 
shelf between the side-pieces an inch from the bottom. 
The other design (Fig. '131) will do nicely for 
A Dining-room Table, or table for the centre of the 
living-room. The top of this should be five inches 
long and three inches 
wide. Cut the side- 
pieces by the pattern 
in Fig. 121 and, after 
fastening them to the 
under side of the table- 
top four inches apart, 
brace them with a 
strip three and three- 
quarters inches long 
by half an inch wide, as shown in Fig. 131. 

A Side-board similar to Fig. 132 should be made for 
the dining-room. The pattern for the side pieces is 
shown in Fig. 122. After sawing these out, cut a piece 
seven inches long by three inches wide for the back and 
fasten the side-pieces to the edges of it. The location 
of the shelves can be obtained best by referring to 
Fig. 132 and the pattern in Fig. 122. Cut the bottom 
shelf {A in Fig. 132) three inches long by an inch 
and one-quarter wide and fasten it to the side-pieces 




Fig. 131. — Another Design. 



ii6 



PROFITABLE PASTIMES 



half an Inch above the base (line 24 on pattern, Fig. 122). 

Make shelf B three by one inches and place it at line 22. 

C should be three and three-quarters inches long by an 

inch and one-half wide, with a 
small notch cut near each end 
with your knife, to make it fit 
over the side-pieces (see illus- 
tration). Cut shelf D three 
inches long by half an inch 
wide, fastening it in place at 
line No. 17, ^ three inches 
long by seven-sixteenths of an 
inch wide, fastening it at line 
No. 15, and F three inches 
long by three-eighths of an 
inch wide, fastening it at line 
No. 13. The top shelf (G) is 
three and three-quarters inches 
long and half an inch wide 
and is fastened to the tops 
of the side-pieces as shown in 
the drawing. 

The lower portion of the 
side-board is enclosed with 




Fig. 132. — A Side-board. 



two doors two inches high by an inch and one-half wide. 
Small pieces of cloth may be used for hinges, but it is 
better to use pins, running them through the shelf above 
and below i^A and C, Fig. 132) into the doors. Stick 



DOLL-FURNITURE 



117 



the pins near the edge of the doors and see that they 
are straight, so the doors will open easily. A small 
mirror attached to the back between shelves C and D 
will complete this piece of furniture. 

A Mirror in a frame should be made for the living- 
room of the doll-house. A neat and suitable design for 
one of these will be seen in Fig. 133. 
For its construction cut two sides by 
means of the pattern in Fig. 123, a 
piece five inches long by three inches 
wide for the back, and a strip three 
inches long by three-eighths of an 
inch wide for a shelf. Fasten the 
sides to the edges of the back-piece, 
and the shelf between the sides 
about three-quarters of an inch above 
the base. Now procure a mirror 
such as you can buy in a toy-shop 
for five or ten cents (or a piece of a 
broken mirror cut down to the right ^'''- ^33- -A Mirror, 
size will do very nicely), and attach it to the centre of 
the back. 

The Grandfather's Clock (Fig. 134) makes an effective 
piece of furniture for the hall or living-room, and is easily 
made. Figure 124 shows the pattern for the front of this 
clock. The back is made the same, with the omission 
of the square opening cut in the front frame for the 
clock-face. Cut a block of wood two by two by three- 




ii8 



PROFITABLE PASTIMES 



quarters inches to fit between the frames at the top. 
After nailing the pieces together, procure a face from 
a toy watch, and fasten it in the opening made for it in 

the front frame. A button sus- 
pended by means of a piece of 
thread from a tack placed in 
the bottom of the block forms 
the pendulum. 

It will be unnecessary to give 
any suggestions for 

Kitchen Furniture, such as 
chairs and tables, for these can 
also be made out of cigar-box 
wood along the same schemes 
illustrated in this chapter, with 
perhaps a few modifications 
which will make them simpler. 
Now for the making of some 
pieces of bedroom furniture. 
You will find in Figs. 135 and 
136 two designs that are easily 
carried out, one or both of 
which may be used for 

The Beds of a doll-house. 
To make Fig. 135, cut the head 
and foot by means of the pat- 
tern in Fig. 125, and cut the two 
sides by means of the pattern 




Fig. 134. 
A Grandfather's Clock. 



DOLI^FURNITURE 



119 



In Fig. 126. After preparing these pieces and fastening 
them together as shown in the illustration (Fig. 135), 




Fig. 135. — A Bed. 

cut a few strips a quarter of an inch wide for slats 
and fasten them between the sides of the bed. It is 




Fig. 136. — Another Design. 



I20 



PROFITABLE PASTIMES 



advisable to fasten these in place to prevent them from 
being lost. 

The side-pieces for the other bed (Fig. 136) are cut 
out with the same pattern (Fig. 126). Make the head- 

and foot-pieces three by four and 
one-half inches, cutting a piece 
two by an inch and one-quarter 
out of the top of each as shown 
in the drawing (Fig. 136), and 
using the pattern of the other 
bed for cutting the curve in the 
bottom edge. Nail the pieces 
together in their proper places, 
after which cut some slats and 
fasten them in the bottom. 

The Dresser (Fig. 137) is made 
somewhat similar to the side- 
board. Cut the sides by the 
same pattern (Fig. 122) and fasten 
them to the edges of the back- 
piece, which should be six and 
one-half inches high by three 
inches wide. Cut shelf A three 
by one and one-quarter inches, 
B and C three by one and one- 
eighth, D three by one and three-sixteenths, and E 
and F one-half by one and one-quarter inches. Fasten 
shelf A between the sides at line No. 24 (see Fig. 122), 




Fig. 137. — A Dresser. 



DOLL-FURNITURE 



121 



B at line No. 23, Cat line No. 22, Z^ at line No. 21, and 
notch the ends of E and /^ to fit over the side-pieces 
at line No. 20. 

Drawers to fit the lower shelves of the dresser may be 
made out of small strips of cigar-boxes or pieces of card- 
board, glued together. A small mirror fastened in the 
position shown in the drawing w^ill 
complete the work upon this piece 
of furniture. 

A Wash-stand can be made for 
the bath-room and each of the bed- 
rooms similar to Fig. 138. The 
sides for this should be five inches 
high by an inch and one-quarter 
wide, and the shelves one by three 
inches. Fasten the lower shelf 
three-quarters of an inch above the 
base, and the top shelf at a height 
of two and one-half inches. When 
the stand has been put together, 
fit a round stick, about an eighth of an inch in diameter, 
in holes made in the sides with a gimlet (see illustration). 
This forms the towel-rack. Hang a small drapery over 
the lower portion of the stand. 

Finishing. — When the pieces of furniture have been 
completed, they should be rubbed dow^n with emery- 
paper to remove the rough edges, and also any rough 
places that may have been caused by soaking the boxes 




Fig. 138.— a Wash-stand. 



122 



PROFITABLE PASTIMES 



in water. Then give the wood several coats of Hnseed- 
oil. This makes a beautiful finish for this kind of wood. 
If desired, the bedroom furniture may be painted with 
white enamel. The little hearts may be painted upon 
the pieces as shown in the illustration, with a small 
brush and red paint, or may be cut out of red paper and 
glued to the wood. 

Other Cigar-box Furniture 

In Figs. 139 and 142 will be found some pieces of 
furniture that are simpler to make than that just 

described, and although 
they may not be so 
pretty, they present a 
very good appearance 
when neatly made. 

The author con- 
structed many pieces of 
this furniture when a 
boy, and found them 
suitable as presents, be- 
sides being something 
that was always easy to 
sell. 

The cost of making a 

set amounts to but a few 

cents, cigar-boxes being 

Fig. 139. — A DoiPs Folding-bed. the principal material. 




DOLL-FURNITURE 



123 



They are also very quickly made, as the boxes require 



but little cutting. 



For the construction of 

A Folding-bed, such as is shown in Figs. 139 and 140, 
select two cigar-boxes, one of which will fit inside the 




Fig. 141. — Foot. 




Fig. 140. — Folding-bed (open). 

other. The smaller box should be a little shorter than 
the inside opening of the larger box. After removing 
the paper from each, place the smaller box inside the 



124 



PROFITABLE PASTIMES 



larger one, as shown in Fig. 139, so that the bottom of 
the inner box is flush with the edge of the outer box. 
Then drive a brad through both boxes on each side, 
about three-quarters of an inch from the end as shown 
at A (Fig. 139). These brads should run through the 
outer box into the bottom of the inner box, and should 
be driven in carefully so as not to split the wood. The 
inner box should now fold down as shown in Fig. 140, 

moving upon the brad pivots. 
Purchase a five or ten cent 
mirror and fasten it to the 
front of the bed, after which 
cut two wooden feet similar 
to Fig. 141 and glue the pegs 
on the ends of these in gimlet 
holes made above the mirror. 
Finish the wood the same as 
described for the other cigar- 
box furniture. 

The Dresser shown in Fig. 
142 is made out of a box 
the same size as the larger 
one used for the folding-bed. 
Saw the sides of the box in half, crosswise, and remove 
the upper half and the end-piece. Then nail the end 
across the tops of the remaining halves of the sides. 
When this has been done, divide up the lower portion 
of the box into compartments as shown in the drawing 




Fig. 142. — Dresser completed. 



DOLL-FURNITURE 



125 



(Fig. 143). This should have a small drapery hung 
over it. The upper portion of the dresser should have 
a mirror attached to it, and 
some lace draped over the 
top and sides will add greatly 
to its appearance. 

All you will have to do in 
making 

A Wardrobe will be to fasten 
some small hooks inside of 
a cigar-box, attach the cover 
with a strip of linen — the 
same way it was attached 
before you soaked it off — 
and hang a mirror on the 
front. 

These pieces of furniture 
were designed for separate sets, and would not do for 
doll-houses the size of those in the preceding chapters, 
unless the boxes were cut down to smaller proportions. 



^B" 




Fig. 143. — A DolPs Dresser. 



m i 


Slk 




m 


i H^ 




\\^C^ ^ 




1 


CHAPTER IX 
A BOY'S PRINTING-SHOP 


1 



Since the manufacture of printing-presses in small 
sizes, printing has become so popular among boys that 
it is now hard to find a neighborhood in which there is 
not a press. 

Printing is one of the best methods of mastering 
spelling and punctuation, and is thus a great help to 
a boy in his studies, besides being a pleasant occupation 
at which he can earn money. 

If you cannot afford a large press, be satisfied with 
a small one for the time being at least. Get to work, 
learn to print neatly and accurately, and when your 
friends find your work is of good quality, they will 
gladly patronize you. Your profits should soon net 
you enough with which to buy a larger press and 
increase your equipment. 

After securing a press, it will be necessary to find a 
place in which to keep and use it, where there will be 
a good light to work by and where things are not likely 
to be disturbed. If you have a workshop, you may 
be able to make room in it for your outfit. 

126 




127 



128 PROFITABLE PASTIMES 

When the author became the proud owner of a 
machine, he found it convenient to keep it in his room 
with his type-cases and material beneath the press-stand. 
But in the course of several years the printing-shop re- 
quired more space than the room afforded, and a new 
office had to be secured. This was found in the wood- 
shed, where a corner was partitioned off, a double sashed 
window placed in the wall, and the interior fitted up 
with a case-rack, imposing-table, stock-stand, and all the 
necessities for an enlargement of business. Figure 144 
shows the arrangement of our shop a few years later, 
when it again became necessary to increase our floor 
space by adding a " mezzanine " story above, extending 
to the roof of the shed. This half-story was reached 
by means of a ladder, as shown in the drawing. 

The principal equipment of a boy's shop should con- 
sist of a number of cases in which to keep the fonts of 
type ; a rack in which these cases can be kept and at 
which the typesetting can be done ; a work-bench, one 
end of which may be used for an imposing-table and the 
other for the press to stand upon ; and two cabinets, one 
for stock and the other for ink, tools, and general supplies. 
The other materials required are : a composing-stick, 
composing-rule, pair of tweezers, galley, leads, rules, fur- 
niture, mitre-box, imposing-stone, quoins, shooting-stick, 
mallet, planer, hand-roller, and gauge-pins, besides a can 
of ink, an oil-can, a bottle of machine-oil for washing roll- 
ers, benzine for cleaning type, and a good supply of rags. 




An Amateur's Outfit. 



A BOY'S PRINTING-SHOP 129 

Small presses are usually accompanied by a few fonts 
of type, which are sufficient for printing small business- 
cards, etc., but are of so few letters as to make an ordi- 
nary job of printing impossible. With an increase of 
capital. 

Type should be the first addition to your outfit. In 
making selections bear in mind the amount of money you 
have to spend, and buy only styles which will go together 
nicely and which can be used for the greatest variety 
of work. If possible, secure the advice of a printer in 
purchasing, as by his experience he can tell what you 
will most require better than you. You can probably 
obtain a specimen type-book from the type foundry in 
your city from which to make your selections. 

Type-cases divided into small compartments for the 
various letters and characters, which can be bought for 
seventy-five cents or a dollar, provide the only satisfac- 
tory means of keeping fonts. It is advisable to spend 
the money for these neatly made boxes rather than 
attempt to make them, for the work will amount to more 
than what you can buy them for. 

Figures 145 and 146 show the upper and lower news- 
cases with the systems of " laying " generally employed 
in printing establishments. It will be seen that by this 
method the principal letters are grouped in the cen- 
tral portions of the case where they are easily reached, 
while the less important letters are scattered around the 
sides. The central boxes of the lower case are also 



130 



PROFITABLE PASTIMES 



made larger than the others, " e " being allotted the 
largest box as it is used more than any other letter in 
the alphabet. 

As the lettering of the spaces and quads in Fig. 145 
may be confusing to the beginner, it is perhaps well to 

SCHEME FOR LAYING CASES. 



BF 


BEEE 


1—1 


nn 


nnn 


Finni 


W- 






• 






nr^n 


cL 












*rr 


B[ 


m 


- 


h 





™ 


im 


Of- 


^^ 


^■" 


l» 


■"■ 


—in 


Ulv'.. 


|eL 




LJ 


w 




• n 


□lid 



cniCLioiCiiniE 

EEECECirT] 






Fig. 145. — Lower Case. 



Fig. 146. — Uppercase. 



explain that these are based upon the " m " quads which 
present a square end, the " 2m " and " 3m " quads being 
two and three "m" quads in width, and an "n" quad 
one-half an " m." Likewise spaces are known by the 
fraction they represent of an " m " quad, viz. " 3m," 

" 4m," " 5m," and " 8m " 
(more commonly known 
as hair-space). 

The upper and lower 
cases provide for about 
every character included 
in a complete font of type. For smaller fonts you will 
find the Yankee job-case very convenient, the letters 
being arranged the same in the lower portion, and the 
capitals being placed in the upper boxes (see Fig. 147). 




Fig. 147. — The Yankee Job-case. 



A BOY'S PRINTING-SHOP 



131 



It will be unnecessary to have 

A Rack for the Type-cases until you have added several 
styles of type to your outfit. Then you will find a rack 
such as is shown in Fig. 148 
one of the best methods of 
keeping the type away from 
the dust and at the same time 
in an accessible place. 

This rack should be four 
feet in height, the width of 
a type-case, and twenty-eight 
inches deep, which is large 
enough for twelve cases. It 
is best made out of four-inch 
boards. 

Cut the uprights A and E 
three feet six inches long, and 
B and F ioMX feet long. The 

top-pieces C and G should be ^^^- 148. -A Type-case Rack. 

cut similar to Fig. 149. First lay out these pieces on 
four-inch boards, using the dimensions given on the 
drawing and being careful to get both pieces the same. 





Fig. 149. 



132 



PROFITABLE PASTIMES 



Having properly marked the pieces, they remain to be 
cut out with the rip and cross-cut saws. Cut the bottom- 
pieces D and H twenty-eight inches long, and prepare 
twenty-two inch-strips of the same length for cleats. 

One of the most particular points to be looked after in 
making a rack of this kind is the attaching of the cleats, 
for unless they are perfectly hori- 
zontal and those on one side are 
on a level with those on the other 
side, the cases will not slide in satis- 
factorily and will be continually caus- 
ing trouble. Plenty of space should 
also be left between the cleats to 
prevent the cases from sticking by 
the cleats swelling or warping. 

In order to get the cleats in the 
right position, the heights should be 
laid off on the uprights as shown in 
Fig. 150 and lines squared across 
them. You will then have the same 
heights on each upright. 

Having prepared the pieces above 
described, we are ready to put them 
Lay uprights A and B upon the ground, 
twenty inches apart, and with the lower ends on a line 
with one another. Then fasten board D to them as 
shown in Fig. 151, the upper edge being even with the 
first divisions on the upright. Drive but one nail in 





) 
















c 


B 


-^ 































Fig. 150. 



together, 



A BOY'S PRINTING-SHOP 



133 



each end of D until the other end of the frame is 
fastened together. Strip C should be placed as shown 
in Fig. 151, so that the upper edge of one end is even 
with the top of upright A, and the upper edge of the 
other end three inches above the top of upright B. 
This gives the proper pitch to the top of the rack. 
Then, after measuring the 
distance between uprights A 
and B to see that it is no 
more or less than twenty- 
inches, nail C firmly to them, 
after which drive several more 
nails into the ends of D, 

When this has been done, 
fasten the cleats in place, so 
that the top of each is even 
with the line squared across 
the uprights. This completes 
the frame. The opposite 
frame is made similarly. 

When both frames have 
been made, they should be ^^^' ^^^" 

fastened together by means of the crosspieces shown in 
Fig. 148. Measure the width of your cases, w^hich varies 
somewhat with different makes, and set the frames about 
half an inch farther apart than this width. Then cut 
the boards /, /, K, and L the correct length and nail 
them to the places shown upon the drawing. Strips 



" ^ '' 0" J 


- 


3" 










1 












1 












1 












A 1 


3 










1 












1 












1 












1 












1 












1 






■ 




1 






; ° 







134 



PROFITABLE PASTIMES 



M and N should be fitted between C and G to help 
support the top. 

The top of the rack is made to hold two cases at a 
time, the lower case on the front part and the upper case 
back of it. 

Cases should be kept out of the dust as much as 
possible, as dirt accumulates in the boxes very quickly, 
and is hard to clean out. It is therefore a good plan to 
tack cloth or heavy wrapping-paper to the back, sides, 
and below the top of the rack, and provide a curtain 
to hang over the front when the cases are not in use. 
When the boxes do become dirty, the dust should be 
removed by means of a pair of bellows. 
In composing, or setting type, 

A Composing-stick is necessary. This should be held 
in the left hand, as shown in Fig. 152, while the right 

hand picks up the 
type one by one and 
drops them into the 
stick, where the left 
thumb shoves them 
into place. It will 

Fig. 152. — How to Hold the Composing-stick, j^^ g^^^ |^ looking 

at the illustration that the type are set upside down and 
read from left to right. This may seem awkward at 
first, but with practice you will soon become accustomed 
to reading the letters in this position. 

A Composing-rule, similar to Fig. 153, should be cut out 




A BOY'S PRINTING-SHOP 



135 



Fig. 153. — A Composing-rule. 



of a piece of brass rule. In typesetting, the rule is first 
placed in the stick, and the type then placed against it 

When a line has been set and there still remains a 
space too small for another word, it is necessary to either 
place wider spaces between the words to fill out the 
line, or reduce the space 
sufficiently to make it pos- 
sible to add the word. 
This operation, which is 
known as 

Justifying, should be performed after each line has 
been set. Then place a lead against the type, lift out 
the composing-rule from behind the first line, and place 
it in front of the lead preparatory to setting a new line. 
After composing a stick full of type, it should be 
emptied into 

A Galley. Figure 154 shows a galley made of half- 
inch stuff. Cut the pieces as shown, and fasten them 

together so the bottom- 
piece is tilted sufficient to 
keep the lines from 

" Pieing " — or falling out 
of line — without tying 
them together. Emptying 
a stick may prove difficult 
at first, but if the lines have been properly justified and 
are gripped at the ends with the thumb and first finger 
of each hand, there is but little danger of making pie. 




Fig. 154. — A Home-made Galley. 



136 PROFITABLE PASTIMES 

The beginner will, however, doubtless pie his type 
a number of times, until by experience he learns the 
proper handling of it. 

Proofs are struck while the type is in the galley, by 
running an ink-roller over the matter, then placing a 
damp sheet of paper on the type and running a dry 
hand-roller over the paper. The print thus obtained 
is known as the " first proof." It should be fully cor- 
rected by means of proof-reader's marks, which can be 
found in the appendix of any dictionary, after which the 
corrections should be made in the type and a second 
proof struck off. 

When the matter has been fully corrected, it should 
be placed upon 

The Imposing-stone — a piece of marble or other flat 
stone set upon the work table. After properly leading 
the type, 

The Chase — an iron frame cast to hold the type for 
printing — should be placed over it. The space between 
the type and chase should then be filled out with 

Furniture. — Metal furniture consists of hollow metal 
blocks of various sizes, while wooden furniture comes 
in strips of different widths, which may be cut up into 
the lengths required. Use a mitre-box similar to the 
one described in Chapter I in cutting the wooden 
furniture. 

Locking-up a Form. — The type is locked-up by means 
of iron wedges known as " quoins." There are two 



A BOY'S PRINTING-SHOP 



137 



forms of these, those driven together by means of a 
"shooting-stick" and mallet, as shown in Fig. 155, and 
those locked by means 
of an iron key, such as 
is shown in Fig. 156. 
The latter kind is 
probably the most 
comm.only used to-day. 
Before locking ^ the 
form, the type should 
be levelled with a 
planer, which is noth- 
ing more than a block 
of hardwood with a 
smooth, even surface. 
The planer should be 

set upon the type and ^^^- i55--Locking-up a Form. 

given a few light raps on the top with the hammer, 
until the face of the type is even. Then lock the form 

securely, being careful to have 
as equal pressure as possible 
on all sides, to prevent the type 
from springing. The form is 
then ready for the press. 

Distribution consists in re- 
placing the types in their 
respective boxes after the form has been printed, and 
is no longer desired. The matter should first be thor- 





Key and Quoins. 



138 PROFITABLE PASTIMES 

oughly washed, then unlocked. The distributer lifts out 
several lines of the type, holding them in his left hand, 
with the nicks uppermost and the letters facing him. 
One or more words are picked from the top line with 
the right hand, and each letter is dropped into its box, 
after which several more words are picked up and 
similarly distributed. 

A few pointers in regard to presswork may be helpful 
to the beginner. 

The Tympan, or metal bed upon which the paper to be 
printed is placed, should be padded well with paper to 
make a firm impression, the number of sheets required 
depending upon the character of the form. These 
sheets are held in place by means of the iron clamps 
which slip over the ends of the tympan (see Fig. 160). 

The first print struck off probably will be imperfect, 
that is, some portions will be lighter than others, due 
to uneven impression. This is overcome by what is 
known as 

Overlaying the form. Make several impressions, in- 
cluding one on the top tympan-sheet. Then cut out the 
light portions of a print and paste them directly over 
the corresponding printing on the tympan-sheet (see Fig. 
160). Thin tissue-paper will be found good for building 
up portions requiring but little increase in pressure. 

Underlaying consists in pasting strips of paper to the 
back of type or cuts which print unevenly, to make the 
low portions higher. 



A BOY'S PRINTING-SHOP 



139 



When the form prints satisfactorily, you must prepare 
the marginal lines before running off the job. The 
margins can easily be marked off upon the tympan-sheet, 
as you have the impression upon it for a guide (see 
Fig. 160). When this has been done, 

Gauge-pins of some sort should be stuck into the 
tympan-sheet along the marginal lines as guides for plac- 
ing the paper in the 
press for printing. 
Two forms of these 
pins, which can be 
bought for twenty- 
five or thirty cents a pair, are shown in Fig. 157. These 
pins must be so placed that there will be no danger of 
them mashing the type. 

There are several forms of home-made gauges which 
may be used, three of which are shown in Figs. 158, 159, 





Gauge-plowith- 
Spring-tongue • 



Brass • Gauge-pio. 

Fig. 157. — Two Forms of Gauge-pins. 



(D 








mmim 







Fig. 158. 



J ^ 



Fig. 161. 




Fig. 160. 

Figs. 158-161, 



Fig. 159. 

Home-made Gauges. 



and 161. The first (Fig. 158) consists of an ordinary 
pin bent into the shape shown. The second (Fig. 159) 
is made out of a strip of cardboard scored and bent as 



I40 PROFITABLE PASTIMES 

in the drawing. It must be pasted in place and held 
in position until dry, to prevent it from slipping (see 
Fig. 1 60). The third form of home-made gauge-pin 
consists of a quad (Fig. 161), or thin piece of furniture, 
pasted to the tympan-sheet. 

In Inking the Press be careful to spread the ink evenly 
over the disk, and apply just enough to make a clear, 
clean copy. Too much ink will clog the type and 
produce a smeared print. 

Ink should not be left upon the form after the latter 
has been removed from the press, but should be washed 
off immediately with benzine. The disk and rollers 
should also be washed after use, as the ink will not be 
good when hard and will become dirty. 

The Life of a Roller is greatly increased by using 
machine-oil rather than benzine for washing it. Ben- 
zine is too drying for the composition of a roller (which 
is glue and molasses) and takes the elasticity out of it, 
causing it to crack. Keep the rollers in a cool place 
in the summer and not in too cold a place in the winter, 
for extremes in temperature also affect the composition. 

Neatness is absolutely necessary in printing, and to 
secure this you must keep your hands clean so as not 
to finger-mark your prints. Care must be taken in 
throwing off printed sheets to see that they do not 
fall upon freshly printed ones if these are wet enough 
to mark them. 

Materials should be put away in their proper places 



A BOY'S PRINTING-SHOP 141 

after use. Do not throw type, leads, and furniture 
carelessly about, as they are likely to be lost or broken 
by doing so. Cigar-boxes make handy receptacles for 
pied type, until you have an opportunity to sort out 
and distribute it. These are useful also for keeping 
leads, furniture, and rules in, and a cabinet similar to 
that described in Chapter I (Fig. 15), or the curio- 
cabinet described in Chapter IV (Fig. 59), should be 
made to hold them. 

The young printer should see to it that 

Proofs and Scraps of Paper are thrown into a waste 
basket and not scattered about, as they accumulate 
rapidly, and not only make a shop look very untidy, but 
increase the danger of fire. 

Oily Rags should be kept in a covered tin can, for 
they are liable to ignite spontaneously when exposed 
to the air ; and of course oils, gasoline, and benzine 
should be handled away from fire and corked up after 
use. 




CHAPTER X 

AMATEUR JOURNALISM 




Amateur journalism is by no means a new pastime, 
but probably at no time in its long history has it been 
thought as much of as at present. 

It would be a difficult matter to even roughly estimate 
the number of papers which have been issued in the 
amateur world. Mr. Edwin Hadley Smith of New 
York City has the largest collection now in existence. 
This at present consists of 22,600 amateur papers, 500 
amateur books, 800 photographs of amateur journalists, 
800 professional clippings, and 2,500 miscellaneous 
printed relics dating as far back as 1845. The collec- 
tion, which is the result of many years' work, is sorted 
and catalogued, and will soon be placed in one of our 
large libraries, where the public may inspect the work 
that has been turned out by amateurs for the past 
half century. 

It is said Benjamin Franklin published an amateur 
paper in 1723, when a lad of seventeen years; and in 
tracing the history of amateur journalism down to the 
present time, a person would be surprised to find what 

142 



THE GOLDEN 



STATE ffhc llnlional gimatmn*. 




y^rv^m'^cs. ._^ 



MTt-n ^^^\ln 



•^«E BLUE PEIVQL... 



THK INI AND AMATEUR. _ , ^^NR 

Tilt HOBO, y,l,i« lHiv5tin-u Auiatrui> 



TH 



' f! 



j Tilt PfcNNANr 



THE ILLINOIS AMAVEDR. 



fj THE RANDOM AMA7 EL 



The Dr-eamer ^ 




^^1^' CLARIS 
^^ OPIMONS 



i 



r'7^"^ i 



mot 



SANS GENE MWINALIA 



3Nv- .f,s . - 

"' p.- 

THE PERIPATETIC if 

ADVANCE. 

The Qiiarteriy Review. 

e fi^ Eag! 



HON 



The^ Metrop ole. 
TRINITY 



The ShilULih. 



IBE SE^Ri H-Lir,Hl 



(The IJcdoer 



fHfc rRANSCtJiPi. J[!^ American A matour. 




A Giioup OF Amateur Papers. 



AMATEUR JOURNALISM 



143 



a large number of the most successful statesmen, writers, 
and scientific men this country has had were amateur 
journalists in their younger days. 

There are at present in the neighborhood of two 
hundred amateur papers published in the United States. 
A few of these papers, representative of amateurs from 
all parts of the country, have been grouped together and 
reproduced opposite page 

i42,andseveralothersare C HEMISTRY NEW5. 
shown in Figs. 162, 163, ED)TOR\AX- 

164, 165, and 166. It is ^" 

to be regretted that lack ^o^* <^ /w-^rvub "U/vwju 1^ 

of space forbids a larger G<f^^Xo^>^ uo-U^V oJ^^^Jionji^ 
display of these papers, f*^ '"'^^^ c^aA^-^ Cw ul^^a^oU^ 
many of which are quite t^ IfW^' Jtt U:> AUT'\iji^ 
unique and reflect credit "ttx^ o^XjOvyvju uAJiJL a-wvo cowt*. 



upon their publishers. 

During the centennial 
at Philadelphia in 1876, 
the National Amateur 
Press Association was 
formed for the purpose 
of spreading amateur 
journalism and bringing amateurs into closer relations 
with one another. The United Amateur Press Associa- 
tion was formed in 1897, and, while it is a younger 
organization than the National Amateur Press Associa- 
tion, has a large membership of amateurs. 



Fig. 162. — A School Paper. 
32 pages. Size 2{" x 2|". 



144 PROFITABLE PASTIMES 

Every boy aspirant to the field of journalism should 
join one of these associations as soon as he has the 
proper credential — a copy of his own paper, or an orig- 
inal article of his published in an amateur paper. By 
becoming a member and getting acquainted with other 
amateurs through exchange of papers, a boy is greatly 
benefited. He has a chance to see what other ama- 
teurs are doing, finds out through the other papers what 
the members think of his work, and learns through 
these friendly criticisms wherein he can improve his 
publication. He also has a chance to enter his writ- 
ings for the prizes awarded annually by the associa- 
tions for the best poems, sketches, essays, histories, and 
editorials. 

A great number of the members of these two associa- 
tions are interested in smaller organizations, among 
which are the Interstate Association — consisting of the 
members of the East — and the Western. Again, a 
large number of amateurs have formed state organi- 
zations, and in large cities, where there are enough 
members to do so, local clubs have been formed. The 
city clubs hold frequent meetings, at which it is cus- 
tomary for the members to take part in literary pro- 
grammes. The state and other organizations generally 
hold semi-annual meetings, and the National Amateur 
Press Association and the United Amateur Press Asso- 
ciation meet annually in some city chosen the pre- 
ceding year, and at this convention elect their officers, 



AMATEUR JOURNALISM 145 

make awards of prizes for the year, and have a general 
good time. 

The boy who is owner of a printing-press is almost 
certain to get the publishing fever and commence the 
publishing of a small paper. If his press is too small 
for such an undertaking, it will of course be necessary 
for him to do such job printing as he can get to do 
until he has earned sufficient money to buy a larger 
press and such materials as he will need in publishing 
a paper. 

But it is not always the boy who has had a taste of 
printing who becomes interested in amateur journalism. 
There are few boys nowadays who pass through their 
school life without devoting some of their time to this 
interesting and instructive work. A paper started by 
one boy is generally followed by several more, and in 

I this way the number of amateur papers sent out in a 

] town very rapidly increases. 

Nothing daunts the ambitious boy. If he has not a 
press, and there are no prospects of him earning one 

, for some time, he will not allow this to interfere with 

\ his plans. It only means he must devise some other 
way of printing. Many boys have already proven that 
a press is not an absolute necessity, by issuing papers 
printed with rubber type, written by pen and on type- 
writers, and printed by the mimeograph and such dupli- 
cating machines. These are all more or less tiresome 
operations, but ways in which the boy determined to 



146 PROFITABLE PASTIMES 

publish a paper may start. A few examples of papers 
printed by these methods are shown in Figs. 162, 163, 
and 164. 

It might be interesting to know a little something 
about how these papers were run. The one shown in 
Fig. 162 was lettered by hand, and while only one copy 
of an issue was made, and that passed about in the 

school at which the publish- 
fo'ii: ers attended, there was a 



L k z z h:cb school dailt. 

701. I. Cfclcago Bov., 7, 1904. Mo 2 

For Lake High Athletic*. 1 1 1 r 1 ' ^ 

y,...!^^eSLrci:f:':t ?.vs:i?fr:it^rs?i2o^i?;; ^rV"' Sfood deal of work required 

IntereBtlns. It eeecs thot there are nore toll men In thla <-? ■■■ 

year'o claee than In class heretofore In the Unlverolty. . 

Some very fUie strength tests hove been made. The average iT\ CTf^T 1 'f' 1 IT^ 
lirilng strength of the back Is 300 iba. and that of the HJ iiC L IL UIJ * 
lees between 500 and 600 lbs. One man lifted 7S0 lbs. with *-' *■ 

hlfi lege. The average lung capacity Is 240 cu. In. Twenty 
student: have ever 300, and one man has 360 cu. In. This 
iB, however, an uouacal number of cases of unequal should- 
«ra and crooked aplnea. This deformity 1» , It seems, be- 
coDlng more and more prevalent In the Dnlverslty. It la du« 
to Incorrect habits of sitting and standing, especlaily dur- 
ing the growing age. If taken In hand early, such defects 
may be easily corrected, but If long neglected they are al- 
most Impossible to cure. 



The Dewey School la about to give an entertainment 
which according to the report of the puplla, will be very 
good. 



The French claea Is the owner of two young men who »re ' ^ 

kind enough to give the rest a good laugh oocaslonally. 
One, of them deolareo very decldedly-or aa decidedly as he 
can In French-that he does not like the other. But the 
second Is of a kind and forgiving spirit, and when asKed 
about his attitude, ha returns good for evil by liking 
first one. But perhaps It was not only this ) 
aplrlt of his that makes hla answer thus, for 
heard the French teacher say that she would not 11 
first youn< man If he did not say he liked the other. And 
we're also afraid the other speaker did not understand the 
French, or he would not have persisted In disliking the oth- 
er, and thus forfeiting the Instructor&a regarda. 



Has Klso Tolman ever read the story of Ulyasest Ack 
her; perhaps she will answer you as gravely as aha did a 
Preahniaa vho asked her this qussllon. 



The paper shown in Fig. 
163 is also a school paper, 
published at the Lake High 
School, Chicago. The copy 
for this was first written off 
hi^iust on a wax sheet by means 

Ike the J 

of a typewriter, and this 
sheet placed on the cylin- 
' der of a machine known 

Fig. 163. — Another School Paper. i ^j i 

as a " neostyle, the cylm- 
der then being revolved and the papers printed from 
the wax sheet. 

The paper shown in Fig. 164 was the writer's first 
attempt in the publishing line, and was indeed a sorry 
specimen of typography. A box of rubber type, a four 
line holder, and ink-pad constituted the printing outfit. 
The paper was a twelve-paged two-column affair, requir- 



AMATEUR JOURNALISM 

THE MIMOE. 



147 



Vol.1. 



Chicago June 1894 



No. 2. 



MY PETS. 

Chapter 2. 
Her kitten grew up to be 



ED HER 'Tabby." 



STAIRS TO OUR BED -ROOM AND 

scratch at our door until 

it was opened. 

Then she would jump into 



VERY PRETTY, AND WE NAM -OUR BED AND CUDDLE UP TO 



GO TO SLEEP, BUT OUT SHE 



She kept her- self so nicecame again when we did, 
and clean that we let hefand when we sat down on 
come into the house whenthe floor to put our shoes 



EVER SHE WANTED TO. 

She SOON grew as fond 

OF MY BROTHER AND I, AS 

WE WERE OF HER, AND EVERY 

MOF^NING BEFORE WE WERE 

OUT Of bed she came to 

THE KITCHEN DOOR AND 
CRIED UNTIL THE GIRL LEI 
HER COME IN, AND THEN 
WOULD RUN RIGHT UP 



ON SHE WOULD CATCH THE 
BUTTON- HOOK AND TRY TO 
PULL IT AWAY AND LOOK AT 
US AS MUCH AS TO SAY 
* 'don't GET DRESSED, oust 

play with me. " 

One day she got very sick 

AND WE did every- thing 
WEC^ULD FOR HER, BUT 
SHE BEGAN TO SUFFER SO 



Fig. 164. — Printed with Rubber Type. 

ing six Impressions of four lines each to the column. 
The column ruling was done with a pen, and, after print- 



148 



PROFITABLE PASTIMES 



ing the copies, each had to be gone over and retouched 
with pen and ink. It was a long and tedious job, and 
so wearing upon the type that they were practically use- 
less by the time the second issue had been printed. 
But by this time the publishers became owners of a 

press with which they were 



GRATZ PARK NEWS 



Editoi^ln-Chief; — Brownell Berrymart, 
Associate Editors:— Irving and Ed Mc> 
Clure« Goodloe McDoweili Fred 
Leonard, Russell des Cognets, Lu- 
cien Fishback, Roger Williams, Ed- 
die Morgan and Jas Wm Craig. 

SATURDAY. FEBRUARY. 14, 1?03. 

GEORGE WASHINGTON. 
His father said: "Who cut my cherry 

tree?" 
f, with my little hatchet, see'." 
Wait till I take off my shoe. 
You'll see what I'll' do for you." 
But Georgie wouldn't tell a lie. 
So he deserved a piece of pie. 

JAMES WILLIAM CRAIG. 

TOWN TALK. 

Did you send your girl a valentine. 

The Trust Company is thinking of 
building a sky scraper. 

The candy at the Gleaners' valentine 
party was iine 



able to turn out more satis- 
factory work. 

The first thing for a boy 
to consider is 

The Character of his 
paper — whether it shall 
contain news of the ath- 
letic field, the school, or the 
neighborhood, entirely, or 
be devoted to amateur jour- 
nalism entirely, or be made 
up of a little of each. 

The schoolroom presents 
so much of interest to those 
in and out of it, that papers 
managed and edited by 
several pupils, with the articles written by the different 
classes, are generally successful. Athletic news is always 
interesting to boys, and to have at least a portion of 
your paper given up to this subject might be a good plan. 
The paper shown in Fig. 165 is an example of a small 
paper, the size of the sheet being three by four and one- 



(Courtesy of Strand Magazine.) 

Fig. 165. 



sm 



AMATEUR JOURNALISM 149 

half inches. It was published a few years ago by six 
boys living in Lexington, Kentucky. The staff, the 
oldest of whom was but ten years of age, consisted of 
the editor-in-chief, who attended to the general manage- 
ment, editing, and printing of the paper, and five other 
boys, known as the associate editors, who gathered the 
news and did the hustling. This paper contained mostly 
neighborhood news, and had a 
large local circulation. 3[^|t^ J^cdg^r 

The paper shown in Fig. 166 
consists of twelve pages printed 
upon a press with a form capac- 
ity four by six inches, and is 
given up entirely to the publica- 
tion of original stories and poems. 

Some boys who do not own 
presses have the printing done 
by professionals, but simply to 
edit a paper gives them but half 

the pleasure and experience derived from executing all 
the work themselves, — editing, printing, binding, mail- 
ing, etc. 

In Naming a paper be sure to select a suitable title for 
it, a name with a meaning, such as will denote the char- 
acter of the publication, being desirable. 

The Frequency of Publication will depend largely upon 
the size of sheet, number of pages, the amount of time 
that can be devoted to the work, and the facilities for 



VOL. 2. 


MARCH & APRIL, 1896. NO. 2. 




A WEEK'S DIARY 


WMFLE VISITING AT TWIN LAKES WIS.. JULY 1896. 




B, A. N..I, M.ll. 




CHAPTEH 3. 




The Ar„..l. 


T>.. pl>c 


-her. we were go. »e lo c-p w„ oh ih. .op o 


a h.ll Ihll ro 


e Irom the lake .0 -e cirr.ed s.ch .. ihe a'ih«.h( 






whtrc the su 


n would hot get It them ahd Iheh o^ught up tha 










th« g'ouno 


hd hammered the st.kes down oh ohe SKle. and 


while Rossr. 






kei down on the other s.de. Then we la<d the 


b.g-iisdow 


on the 6'oond On the Inside of the lent and were 






cows IhJl w 






ed to be .n too much ol a hurry to go w,lh the res 






"'"'"• •" 


d ....bout to it.ck them dow„ hill ..M« RoH 




Fig. 1 66. 



I50 PROFITABLE PASTIMES 

printing. Whether weekly, monthly, semi-monthly — 
twice a month, bi-monthly — once in two months, or 
quarterly, try to place each issue in the hands of sub- 
scribers as nearly on time as possible. 

The Size of Page will depend largely upon your press. 
However, a small sheet is most desirable for an amateur 
paper. 

The first page should be headed with the name of the 
paper set up in rather large type. You will find 

A Stereotyped Heading cheaper to buy than a font of 
large type, and easier to handle on account of its being 
in a solid block. Below the heading should appear the 
volume number, date, and number of issue, on one line, 
followed by the title of the article and body of type. 

The Choice of Type may be made by examining the 
sheets shown opposite page 142 and in Figs. 165 and 
166, many of which are good specimens of typography. 
These should also help you to formulate your ideas as 
to the style of your paper. 

The second page should be headed with the page 
number and name of paper — or title of story — in 
small caps, this line to be separated from the body of 
type by means of a pica brass rule. 

Great care should be used in publishing a paper to 
have the proof thoroughly corrected before the form is 
printed, for typographical errors spoil the appearance of 
the paper and are always disgusting to the reader. Also 
see to it that the marginal lines correspond on each 



I 



AMATEUR JOURNALISM 151 

sheet, and try to get uniform impressions throughout 
the paper. 

A Cover is desirable for a small paper, as it adds to its 
appearance and size. If you have one, set it up in some- 
what the same style as those shown opposite page 142. 
The cover sheets should be cut a little larger than the 
inside sheets, so they will cover the latter when they are 
bound together. 

With the printing of an issue completed, the sheets 
are ready for 

Binding. — They may be fastened together by means 
of wire staples, paste, or thread. 

Figure 167 shows a scheme of stitching much employed 
in printing-offices and which is simple for an amateur to 
do. The sheets are first 
folded inside one another, 
as in the drawing. Then, 
starting at A with a needle 
and thread, run the needle 



throueh the sheets 



•£> 



carry 




the thread underneath the 

sheets from A to B, from 

B to C above, from C to ^ beneath, and up through the 

sheets at A. Then tie the two ends of D and E in 

a hard knot, with the portion of the thread marked F 

between them. 

The cover may be bound with the rest of the sheets, 
or pasted to them after the sheets have been stitched. 



152 PROFITABLE PASTIMES 

Few amateurs bother with 

Advertisements, probably because it is hard to find 
merchants who have confidence in results from maga- 
zines with small circulations ; but with cheap rates you 
should be able to secure enough ads. to more than 
defray the expenses of publishing a paper. 

Before soliciting these, cut a sheet of paper the size of 
a page and divide it into small spaces with a pencil and 
ruler, making what is known as 

The Advertisers' Dummy. — Show this to your prospec- 
tive advertisers and let them pick out the space they 
wish, charging so much per inch, the rate varying accord- 
ing to the position the ad. will occupy. 

With at least four regular issues a year, and not less 
than fifty per cent of the circulation paid subscriptions, 
you will be able to enter your paper in the post-of^ce of 
your city as 

Second-class Matter, which makes it possible for you to 
mail your papers to out-of-town subscribers at the rate 
of one cent per pound. 

To secure these privileges write to the third assistant 
postmaster-general of your city for an entry blank, together 
with full particulars concerning second-class matter. 
Return the application with a copy of your paper; and 
when it has been passed upon, the postmaster will issue 
you a certificate entitling you to these rates and author- 
izing you to print upon your paper " Entered at the post- 
of^ce at (name of town) as second-class matter." 




CHAPTER XI 

A BOY'S DARK-ROOM 




There is no reason why an industrious boy cannot do 
a profitable business with a camera, when he has learned 
to operate it successfully, does careful and neat work, 
and charges a reasonable price for his pictures. The 
many monthly photographic competitions in the maga- 
zines should be a great help in showing where his faults 
lie, and when he has overcome these he should be able 
to make considerable money from the cash prizes 
offered. 

An amateur should master as much of the work as 
possible. One of the most interesting parts is missed 
if you pay a professional to develop your plates, and you 
never know where your faults have been made in taking 
the pictures, by not seeing the manner in which the 
image appears on the negative during the development. 
Even though you spoil one or two plates in your first 
attempts at developing, your results on the whole will 
probably be as good as those obtained by a professional, 
who is very often careless with amateurs' work. 

No discussion of photography has been included in 

153 



154 PROFITABLE PASTIMES 

this book, as a complete treatise would be too lengthy, 
and a condensed description impractical. There are a 
number of excellent publications which describe the 
subject in detail, making it so clear that a boy cannot 
help but understand the principles with a little study. 
Few of these books, however, dwell upon the equipment 
of the dark-room, and none give a fellow any ideas for 
the making of his apparatus, generally an important 
item to a boy. 

The Necessary Equipment for a dark-room is not large, 
about all you require besides your chemicals being a 
ruby lantern, printing frame, three trays, — one for de- 
veloping, another for fixing, and a third for toning, — 
a two-inch camel's-hair brush for dusting plates, a drying- 
rack, glass graduate, funnel, set of scales, bottles for 
solutions, and a cabinet in which to keep your apparatus 
and supplies. 

A Dark-room is not a necessity, although it is a great 
convenience, especially if you are doing much work. 
With the shades pulled down, you will find that your 
bedroom serves the purpose very well in the evening, 
and many boys do their work in this way. 

Figure i68 illustrates how developing is carried on in 
a bedroom of an old-style house, where the wash-stands 
are set in recesses in the wall. Here a shelf made up 
of several boards fastened together with battens is set 
upon the marble slabs around the basin. In this shelf 
an opening four by six inches is made as shown in 



I! 




A BOY'S DARK-ROOM 155 

Fig. 170, the edges of the opening being rabbeted to 
receive a five-by-seven camera plate. This arrangement 
is very complete, for the developing is performed on the 
shelf, the fixing on the stand below, and the washing in 
the basin, while light from the lantern is projected 
through the glass in the shelf, making it light under- 
neath. 

This scheme can be used for any wash-stand, by nail- 
ing the shelf to two pieces of board twelve inches long 
by the width of the shelf, these pieces being set firmly 
upon the wash-stand. 

Some boys use 

The Bath-room for their dark-room, darkening the 
window and shutting out any rays of light that may 
come through the key-hole and cracks about the door. 
This works splendidly, there being running water at 
hand and the tub in which to wash the negatives. The 
work-table is made out of several boards battened to- 
gether, and should be set across the edges of the tub. 

Figure 169 shows 

Another Scheme — a dark-room fitted up in a closet, 
or by partitioning off a corner of the attic or cellar. In 
the latter case the inside of the partition should be cov- 
ered with black paper or cloth to prevent light from 
entering cracks in the boards. The room should be 
provided with 

A Work-table about three feet high. This should be 
built against the wall and strongly braced, as shown 



156 PROFITABLE PASTIMES 

in the sketch (Fig. 169). Fasten a shelf to the wall 
about nine inches below the table, and under this make 
a rack with three divisions in it for trays. The rack 
should be fastened to the braces, as shown in the 
drawing. 

Running Water is a great convenience in a dark-room, 
as it saves the bother of having to carry water in pails, 
or transferring your plates to a tub or wash-basin for the 
final bath after development. 

If it is impossible to locate your dark-room where it 
will be supplied with running water, the best scheme is 

A Water-tank with hose attachment. This is shown 
in Fig. 169. To carry it out, procure from your grocer 
a " half-barrel," such as is used for the shipment of salt 
mackerel, etc., and, after thoroughly cleaning it, bore 
a hole in the side about two inches from the bottom. 
Buy at a drug-store several feet of rubber tubing, a 
rubber stopper with a hole cut in the centre, two pinch- 
stops, a six-inch piece of glass tubing bent at right 
angles, and a small glass funnel. Slip one end of the 
bent piece of glass tubing into the rubber stopper, and 
stick the latter in the hole made in the barrel. Then 
slip a short piece of the rubber tubing over the glass 
tubing, and place one of the pinch-stops on it to be 
used in regulating the supply of water from the tank 
(see Fig. 171). Set the barrel on one end of the table, 
and run the rubber tubing through a hole cut for it 
in the work-table. 



A BOY'S DARK-ROOM 



157 




Fig. 169. — A Well-equipped Dark-room. 

It Is advisable to filter the water used from the 
barrel, that you may be sure it is free from dirt, so an 



158 PROFITABLE PASTIMES 

arrangement similar to that shown in Fig. 171 should 
be fastened below the work-table. It consists of a glass 
funnel set in a hole bored in a block of wood (see A in 
Fig. 171), which is suspended from the bottom of the 
work-table by means of a stick {B), one end of which is 
nailed to block A and the other end to the work-table. 
Keep a piece of filter-paper in the funnel. The rubber 
tubing should be cut just long enough to reach the 
funnel, and the bottom of this filter should come within 
an inch or two of the sink, which will be set in the shelf 
below. 

You will find an iron drip-pan about as cheap 

A Sink as can be had, considering that one twelve by 
seventeen inches will cost you just fifty cents — twenty- 
five cents for the pan and an equal amount to pay a 
tinsmith for soldering a three-eighths inch pipe in a 
hole cut in the bottom for a drain. Either fasten the 
sink on the shelf, boring a hole for the pipe to fit in, 
or set it in an opening cut in the shelf, as shown in 
the drawing, supporting it by the rim around its top. 
Slip a piece of rubber tubing over the lower end of the 
drain pipe and to this attach the second pinch-stop as 
a regulator for emptying the sink (see Fig. 169). 

As the water supply would be insufficient to wash 
the plates thoroughly after taking them from the 
h}^o bath, it should be used for rinsing only, and 

A Washing-box, after the scheme of Fig. 172, made to 
hold the negatives while washing them. This box will 



A BOY'S DARK-ROOxM 



159 



stand on the shelf beside the sink until you are through 
developing. The rack is made up of strips of wood 
fastened together with wire brads. Figure 173 clearly 
shows its construction. Strips A, B, C, and D should 
be placed three and three-quarters inches apart for four- 
by-iive plates, and kerfs should be cut in their edges as 




Fig. 173. — A Washing-rack. 

shown. A and D are mounted upon short stilts, and 
B and C are nailed to the uprights supporting the 
handle. The plates rest upon strips nailed across the 
bottom pieces. 

This tray was made to hold two dozen plates, but 
may be made smaller if you wish. 

The box should be just large enough for the tray 



i6o 



PROFITABLE PASTIMES 



to fit in. Fill all the cracks and joints with white- 
lead and give the box several coats of paint to make it 
perfectly water tight. Then make a hole in the side 
near the bottom to let the water out, and procure a cork 
to fit it (Fig. 174). 

Before developing, cork up the washing-box, fill it 




Fig. 1 74. — The Washing-box. 



with water, and set it in one end of the sink where the 
plates can be set in it after being taken from the fixing 
bath. When you are through developing, place the box 
and plates in the wash-basin or the bath-tub ; remove 
the cork from the box and allow the water to run in 
at the top and out through the hole near the bottom. 
When the negatives have been thoroughly washed, the 
tray can be removed from the washing-box and used as 



i 



A BOY'S DARK-ROOM 



i6i 



A Drying-rack. 

Another scheme for a drying-rack easily made is 
shown in Fi^. 175. For the construction, two pieces 
of wood twelve inches long by four inches wide will be 
needed (A and B in Fig. 175), also two blocks (Cand V) 
four inches square. Mitre one edge of A and B, and 
cut a right-angled bird's-mouth in C and D to receive 
A and B, With the pieces prepared, fasten them 




Fig. 175. — A Negative-rack. 



together as in the illustration. Then procure some cor- 
rugated straw-board, such as is used for packing glass- 
ware, etc., cut two pieces four by twelve inches, and 
tack them to A and B in such a way that the corruga- 
tions on one strip coincide with those on the other. 
For a simple rack this cannot be surpassed. 
For chemicals, supplies, and apparatus, make 
A Cabinet similar to the one described for tools in 



t62 profitable pastimes 

Chapter I, or the curio-cabinet in Chapter V. This 
makes it possible to keep everything in order and in 
places where they can easily be reached. Such a cabi- 
net is shown on the wall in Fig. 169. 

The best scheme for a dark-room 

Ruby-light is shown in Fig. 169. This is practicable, 
however, only when you build the dark-room itself and 
can cut a window in the partition. It makes it possible 
to have your source of light outside of the room, and 
does away with the heat caused by having a lamp within, 
where you are working. 

First, cut a ten-by-twelve-inch window opening in 
the partition on a level with the top of the work-table. 
Then make a frame a little larger than this opening and 
either set a piece of ruby or orange glass in it, or paste 
a sheet of ruby or orange paper over it. Build a track 
above and below the opening for the frame to slide in, 
doing the work neatly, so there will be no possibility of 
light leaking through. 

The light, which may be a candle or lamp, should stand 
upon a shelf supported upon a bracket outside of the 
window. It is convenient to have the window slide, as 
it enables you to open it and have white light to work 
by when a ruby light is not necessary. 

This window furnishes light for developing, which 
will be done upon the table, but none for the shelf below, 
where the sink is located and where the fixing tray 
should be kept (that there will be no danger of getting 



A BOY'S DARK-ROOM 



163 




Powder-\an. 



hypo into the developer). In order to have light for 
this shelf, you had better follow the scheme shown in 
Fig. 170. Cut an opening four by six inches in the 
work-table directly in front of the window, and make 
a half-inch rabbet around its 
upper edge to receive a five- 
by-seven camera plate (see 
Fig. 170). 

If it is not possible to have 
outside light for the dark 
room, 

A Home-made Lantern, such 
as is illustrated in Fig. 176, 
will be found very satisfactory. 
It is made out of a wooden box 
about ten by ten by twelve 
inches. Cut two openings 
six inches square in two sides 
of the box and cover one with 
one sheet and the other with 
two sheets of orange or red 
paper, spreading paste over 
the entire surface of the paper 
to make it stretch tightly over 
the openings as it dries. The orange and red wrappers 
of some makes of printing papers and developing pow- 
ders can be used for the covering of these openings. 

For a chimney, procure a long slender baking-powder 




Fig. 176. — A Home-made Dark- 
room Lantern. 



164 



PROFITABLE PASTIMES 



can, remove the cover and bottom, and insert it in a hole 

cut for it in the top of the box. Then an arrangement 

must be made, as shown in Fig. 176, to prevent light 

from emitting from the top of the can. This consists of 

a tomato-can placed over the baking-powder can, bottom 

side up, with its edge fastened in kerfs cut in the ends of 

four wooden stilts (see illustration). Drive the stilts firmly 

into holes bored for them in the top of the box. The 

edge of the 

tomato-can 

should now 

be about an 

inch and one- 

half above 

the box, and 

its bottom an 

inch or more 

above the 

bakins^-pow- 
FiG. 177- , ^ ^ 

der can. 

Below the chimney attach a wooden stilt to the bottom 
of the lantern, and tack a can cover to the top of it, as shown 
in the drawing. This forms a cup holder for the candle, 
which not only catches the drippings, but also makes the 
lantern fire-proof should the candle burn down to the end 
before you notice it. Bore a number of holes in the bottom 
of the box, and nail two strips to the under side, as shown. 

The lamp is now completed with the exception of the 




A BOY'S DARK-ROOM 165 

door, which should be made in three pieces, with the 
edges cut and bevelled as shown in Figs. 176 and 177. 
Nail strips A and C to the back of the box, and slip B 
between them. A screw-eye near the bottom of B will 
serve as a lift in opening the lantern. As the edges of 
the strips are cut on a slant and bevelled, a joint which 
cannot possibly leak light is obtained when B is slipped 
into place. All cracks in the box should be carefully 
filled with white lead. 

In offering this lamp to his boy readers, the writer 
knows they will find it most satisfactory and a solution 
to the problem of making a perfect dark-lantern. The 
air admitted through the holes in the bottom of the box 
carries the heat and smoke straight into the chimney, and 
out through the space between the tin cans, making it 
impossible for the flame to ignite the wood. 

If you use 

A Plate-lifter you will find an old tooth-brush handle 
tapered at the end by means of a file one of the best 
that can be had. 

It is well to have some scheme for 

Classifying and Preserving Negatives. — To keep them in 
their original boxes is not a good idea, as there is always 
danger of scratching them and no satisfactory way of 
keeping track of their description, date of exposure, 
etc. 

Manila Envelopes, wath a printed form to be filled out, 
on the outside, are invaluable holders, as they not only 



i66 



PROFITABLE PASTIMES 



make it possible to file away negatives in alphabetical 
order, but preserve them from dust, scratches, etc. 

The four-by-five size can be bought for about twenty- 
five cents a hundred from a dealer in photograph sup- 
plies ; but you can get them much cheaper by going to 
a paper house and asking for their four-by-five coin-cut 
manila envelope, which sells in half-thousand lots at 
about one dollar per thousand. If the quantity is more 
than you will need, you can probably dispose of a por- 
tion of them to your boy friends. With a printing-press 
or rubber type, the following form should be printed 




Fig. 178. — A Negative-case. 

upon the outside, with a rule or space to the right in 
which to place the descriptions: — 



NO. 

DESCRIPTION 
DATE 
REMARKS 



A BOY'S DARK-ROOM 167 

A Wooden Case to hold the envelopes is desirable, and 
such a one may be made similar to Fig. 178. For four- 
by-five negatives the inside of the box should measure 
twelve inches long, five and one-quarter inches wide, and 
three inches deep. It will hold about six dozen negatives. 

Very light wood, about three-eighths of an inch thick, 
should be used for the construction of this case. Cut 
two pieces twelve and three-quarters by three and three- 
eighths inches for the sides, two pieces six by three and 
three-eighths for the ends, and one piece twelve by five 
and one-quarter for the bottom. In cutting the side- and 
end-pieces, mitre the edges of each so they will make 
neat corners. The mitre-box should be used for this 
purpose. Nail the pieces together with small finishing 
nails, after which fasten the bottom-piece between them, 
driving the nails through the side-pieces into it. The 
cover is made of a board twelve and three-quarters 
inches long by six inches wide, with a rim made 
of four inch-and-one-quarter strips nailed around its 
edge, as shown in the illustration. Two of the strips 
should be twelve and three-quarters inches long, and the 
other two six inches long. Their ends should be mitred 
and fitted together as the sides of the box were done, 
and the top should be nailed to their top edges. This 
cover fits over the plates, which project an inch above 
the sides. Hinge it to the back of the box, and attach 
a hook to the front. 

If you do not keep your plates in envelopes, the sides 



1 68 PROFITABLE PASTIMES 

of the box should be Hned with corrugated straw-board 
to separate them. This may be tacked or glued to the 
wood. 

By rubbing down the outside with emery-paper, oil- 
ing, shellacking, or varnishing the wood, a very pretty 
case will be obtained. 

You will find it a simple matter to pick out a negative 
by having them filed in the order of their exposure, and 
catalogued alphabetically in a note-book. 




CHAPTER XII 

A WINTER ENTERPRISE 




Boys who keep their eyes open for opportunities to 
make money are not long in finding that the coming 
of snow means money in their pockets if they are wiUing 
to do a little hustling. 

A number of years ago a few boys undertook the job 
of keeping the walks of their neighborhood free from 
snow, and constructed 

A Snow Plough with which to do their work. The 
plough proved so satisfactory that others were made, 
and before long every boy in the neighborhood had 
enlisted in the company. 

By several boys joining forces in this way, and mak- 
ing contracts with property owners to keep their walks 
and steps free from snow, a good deal of ground can 
be covered in a short space of time, and a neat sum of 
money realized during the season. The work can be 
done before and after school, and be so divided that 
while several are ploughing the walks the others are 
cleaning the steps. 

169 



lyo 



PROFITABLE PASTIMES 



A plough such as is illustrated in Fig. 1 79 is made in 
two sections, four feet long by two feet wide. After 
battening the boards togetl)er at A and B, as shown in 
the drawing, fasten th^ "^*Cti6ns in pmce, "with two ends 
together and the other two ends two feet apart. Nail 
them firmly together at the angle and brace them at 




Fig. 179. — A Snow Plough. 



the open end with strips, as shown at C and D in the 
illustration. 

The bottom edge of the plough should be covered 
with tin, to prevent it from wearing or becoming broken. 
Bore a hole an inch in diameter in each section at B, 
and fasten a broom-handle in them from which to attach 
the rope tugs. This being done the plough is ready 
for use. 

A Scraper is about the best appliance that can be had for 
cleaning snow from the steps, especially when the snow 



A WINTER ENTERPRISE 



171 



has turned to slush. For the making of one of these, 
prepare a seven-eighths inch board sixteen inches long 
by four inches wide. Bevel the lower edge and nail 
a two inch strip below the top, as at A in Fig. 180. 
Bore a hole through both thicknesses of wood at B 
and fit a broom-handle in it, bracing the handle with a 




Hole- 
Wire -Stiffeoer- 



FiG. 180. — A Scraper. 



piece of wire run from a small hole bored in the handle 
at C to the ends of the scraper. 

Figure 181 shows a scheme for 

A Snow Shovel that is easy to make, and one which 
will stand a good deal of wear. For this, secure two 
barrel staves, cut them in two, and plane up the curved 
edges until they are straight. Then taking three of these 
pieces, lay them side by side and nail a two-by-two inch 
strip across the top edges, as shown at y^, to bind them 
together. The bevelled ends of the staves should be 
placed at the lower end of the shovel and bound in place 
by a strip of galvanized iron bent over the edges and 



172 



PROFITABLE PASTIMES 



tacked to the staves (see B in drawing). Another iron 
strip should be nailed across the staves at C, to fasten 
them more securely together. Clinch the nails upon 
the under side of the shovel and drive their ends well 
into the wood. Procure a broom-stick for the handle 
and place it in a bevelled slot cut at D (Fig. 182), 



Fig. 182 




Fig. 181.— An Easily Made Snow Shovel. 

fastening down the end with iron pipe-straps, as shown 
in Fig. 181. 

With the addition of brooms to the plough, scrapers, 
and shovels, your outfit will be complete and ready for 
business. 





PART II 

O-u-tdooi? 
PavS timers 




In Camp fok the Summer. 



< 




CHAPTER XIII 

A BACK-YARD CLUB-HOUSE 




T-T^ 



For many years there stood in a city back-yard a 
shanty in which the boys of the neighborhood gathered 

I after school and during vacation, to hold their club- 
meetings. Many a pleasant hour was spent within the 

: walls of this little building, and it had to be enlarged 
year after year to hold the ever-increasing number of 
members. 

Ij If, during the week of school preceding the summer 
vacation, the boys were seen making plans and talking 
seriously about something evidently in connection with 
the house, it might well be imagined that the annual 
alterations were about to begin. At the close of 
school the neighbors were made aware of it by the 

! appearance of half a dozen boys upon the roof of the 
shanty, who, with hammers and hatchets in their hands, 
were easily recognized as the wrecking crew. 

Perhaps the roof was to be raised a foot or given a 
different pitch, a window changed here or a door placed 
there, a side extended or a partition built through the 
centre ; but no matter whether the alterations bettered 

175 



176 OUTDOOR PASTIMES 

the building or not, they gave the owners a chance to 
use their ingenuity in working out their schemes, and 
practice in carpenter work. 

The boys' greatest difficulty was found in obtaining 
large enough material with which to build. The wood- 
shed was the lumber-yard, and as this contained only 
a few old boards, several packing-cases, and kindling- 
wood, a great deal of splicing was required and many 
pounds of nails were necessary to fasten the many small 
pieces in place. 

After remodelling the club-house one year, the mem- 
bers in way of a joke placed a " For Rent " sign upon 
the door, and were greatly surprised to receive the 
following mysterious letter: — 

Mister Agent : i sea u hev a house Fur rent what u want 
furit im a wider with 12 children six pigs 5 children a mule 
three dogs 7 cats and ten ducks i hop the house is big enuff 
it dont matter bout the children but i wont crowd the pigs. 
i soppose will paint outside an in and put awnins at the frunt 
winders i'd like terry cotty shades and a stun sidewalk iF 
u'll put a piassie on and reduce the rent till after wurlds 
Fair i'll take it what you want furit please let me know soon 
iF u dont find me hum im like to be at mis whatnots if u 
dont know the way to her house just ask mis jones next door 
but one to me she'll tell u Good by. 

Mary Jane Johnstone. 

The letter was answered immediately and sent to the 
general delivery but was returned from the Dead Letter 
Office, and no trace of the large family could be found. 




177 



178 OUTDOOR PASTIMES 

Knowing that many boys who would like to build 
themselves a club-house have not the money in their 
treasury with wdiich to buy new lumber, this chapter 
will describe the manner in which a rough-and-ready 
house may be built. It will not be attempted to show 
the correct methods of putting up a framework, such as 
would be built if the right-sized lumber were obtainable, 
but the simplest way in which boys can make use of the 
material at hand. 

Draw the Plan of the building upon a piece of paper, 
and before commencing work figure out exactly what 
material will be required. If you haven't enough lum- 
ber you will find it a great deal easier to alter the plans 
at first than when the work is half completed. It is best 
first to place in one pile all 

The Material you can find ; then, after drawing the 
plans, sort out the boards according to their lengths. 
Use the short 'boards whenever possible, so that the long 
pieces may be kept for places requiring long boards. 
Several two-by-fours should be secured for the frame- 
w^ork. If you do not happen to have these, you can 
easily get what you want at some alteration job or where 
some frame structure is being torn down. Short two-by- 
fours may be spliced, or, more correctly speaking, " fished." 
This is very often resorted to in building when studding 
of a sufficient length cannot be procured. Figure 183 
shows the method of 

Fishing Studs. — Two fish-plates, A and B, are nailed 



A BACK-YARD CLUB-HOUSE 



179 



^K 



to the sides of the studs, covering the joints, while the 
face OD remains on a level to receive the siding. 

By building the club-house in a corner of the yard, 
against the fence, house, or barn, it is necessary to build 
but two walls. Less material is required, and 
a much firmer structure obtained by doing 
this. 

Stake out the length and width of the house 
upon the ground, and sink a stone or a couple 
of bricks at the corner to support the corner 
post. Then cut two two-by-fours the length 
of the greatest inside height of the house. 
Set one upon the corner stone, bracing it 
temporarily with boards run from it to the 
fence, and spike the other to the fence on a 
line with the corner post (see A and B in 
Fig. 184). Cut the end-plate C the correct 
length and spike it to A and B, after which 
cut a two-by-four the length of the shortest inside height, 
and spike it to the fence rails at D. Nail the boards 
E, F, G, H, and / to the places shown in Fig. 184. 

The Studs should be placed from two to three feet 
apart, according to the length of boards used for siding, 
and additional studding should be set in where it is 
necessary. Fasten the ends of the studs to the boards 
E, F, G, H, and /. Studding should be placed around 
the window and door openings, as shown in the illus- 
tration. 



Fig. 



A BACK-YARD CLUB-HOUSE i8i 

After completing the framework, 

Board up the Sides, fitting the boards around openings 
and corners as neatly as possible. 

The Roof is a very important factor in a building of 
any kind, and care should be taken to make it of water- 
proof material, for a leaky roof will not only ruin the 
interior but make it damp and thus unhealthy. Tar- 
paper will be found a good roofing material, inexpen- 
sive, and easily put on. First cover the roof with 
boards placed about one inch apart. Then cut the tar- 
paper into lengths equal to the width of the roof. Com- 
mencing at the lower edge of the roof 
tack one strip in place. Lap a second 
strip two inches over the first, a third 
two inches over the second, and so on 
until the entire roof is covered. Figure ^^' ^ ^' 

185 shows a tin cap and nail made especially for this 
kind of work. The cap is punched to fit over the 
nail, and prevents water from running into the hole 
made by the latter. It will be unnecessary to coat the 
paper with tar, as there is sufiicient in its preparation 
to keep it water proof a long time — probably longer 
than the house itself will be allowed to stand. 

The Floor should not be laid directly upon the ground, 
but be supported upon four-inch sleepers set as shown 
in Fig. 186, with cinders rammed in between them. 
The bed of cinders should not be more than three inches 
thick, so there will be an inch of air space between them 




OUTDOOR PASTIMES 




and the floor. This will help to keep the floor free 
from dampness. Four-inch boards stood on edge will 
do very well for the sleepers. 

You can probably make a bargain with a carpenter 
for 

A Window-sash. — They very often have a number 
taken from old buildings, which they will gladly sell 

for a small sum. 
There are two ways 
in which you can 
easily fasten the 
sash in place, either 
with hinges so it 
will swing in, as 
shown in Figs. 187 
and 188, or in tracks, to slide as described for the dark- 
room window in Chapter XI and illustrated in Fig. 169. 
If the window is made in the front of the building, as 
shown in the sketch of the finished club-house, the sash 
will necessarily have to be hinged, as there would not be 
room for it to slide sideways. We will therefore hinge it 
to swing in as shown in Figs. 187 and 188. The studding 
which was placed around the window opening when you 
erected the framework of the house forms a frame for 
the sash to set in. The window-sill is made out of a 
seven-eighths-inch board cut the width of the opening, 
and should be nailed to the bottom piece of the frame 
so it pitches slightly outwards and its edges project a 



. c l TO d e rs ^^^>^ "^-^^^^U- 5 1 e e pe n 
Fig. 186. — Construction of Floor. 



A BACK-YARD CLUB-HOUSE 



183 



little beyond the wall inside and out (see Fig. i 
The pitch of the sill can be obtained by blocking the 
inner edge with a very thin strip of wood, as shown in 
the section drawing. The sash should fit the frame with 
but enough space around it to allow it to open freely. 
Place the sash in the opening with its inside surface on 



^/ 



^^ 



Z'xaT 



-Minges. 



Button 



Cord 



^ 



SiU. 
1^ Strip 



Fig. 188. — Section 
throuofh Window. 



WLnnc?v\Z 




Spring Catch 



Fig. 187. — Inside of Window. 



a line with the inside face of the two-by-four frame, as 
shown in Fig. 188, and nail a seven-eighths-inch win- 
dow-stop around the frame outside of the sash to keep 
the rain and wind from entering. 

By hinging the sash to the top of the frame as shown 
in the illustration, it can be swung up out of the way 
when opened. A spring-catch should be screwed to 



1 84 



OUTDOOR PASTIMES 



the bottom rail of the sash with the latch-pocket counter- 
sunk in the window-sill, and from the knob of the catch 
a cord should be attached and run through a screw-eye 
placed in the wall near the ceiling. The sash can now 
be opened by pulling the cord, and may be held open 
by looping the end of the cord over a nail. Wooden 
buttons should be screwed to the 
inside edge of the jambs for addi- 
tional locks (see Fig. 187). 

A sill should be set in the bottom 
of the door frame, and a seven-eighths 
inch stop nailed to the top and to 
the jambs in the same way as you 
finished the window opening. 

Make a Batten Door, fastening the 
boards together on the inside with 
battens as shown in Fig. 189, with 
the nails driven through from the 
outside face and clinched upon the 
battens. Hinge the door to the in- 
A Batten Door, gj^^ facc of the jamb with strap- 
hinges, and either buy an iron latch for it or make the 
old-fashioned 

Wooden Latch described and illustrated in the following 
chapter. 

With the carpenter work of the house completed, 
Calk up the Cracks, of which there will doubtless be 
a great number, unless matched boards have been used 




Fig. 189. 



A BACK-YARD CLUB-HOUSE 185 

for the walls. This may be done by rolling pieces of 
newspapers into wads and wedging them into the cracks 
with a pointed stick. Several thicknesses of wrapping- 
paper tacked over the inside walls will help to prevent 
the wind from entering, and will also make a good foun- 
dation for wall-paper should it be placed upon the walls. 

Earth should be banked up around the outside of 
the house to keep away the water. Vines trained over 
the outside will help to hide the roughness of the boards. 

The club-house interior may be fitted up with furni- 
ture such as is -described in Chapter IV, "Suggestions 
for a Boy's Room." 





CHAPTER XIV 

HOW TO BUILD A LOG-CABIN 




The log-cabin marks what might be called the begin- 
ning of American architecture, for it was the first form 
of building built by white men upon American soil. 
The introduction of saw-mills was very slow, and lumber 
so scarce that cabins were the best shelter the colonists 
could build to withstand the cold winters and the merci- 
less attacks of Indians. With the building of saw-mills, 
the cabin gradually gave way to the frame building, 
which could be more quickly built, and which was, of 
course, a more comfortable lodging. But this change 
first took place up and down the large rivers, where the 
mills were located, and did not extend into the interior 
until some time later, owing to the difficulty of hauling 
lumber to great distances from the mills. 

To-day the log-cabin is still to be found in the timber 
regions and among the mountains, but mostly for tem- 
porary residences, such as summer homes, camps, and 
play-houses. 

You boys who spend the summer in the woods should 
not miss the opportunity of building yourselves a small 

i86 



n 



-f^ 





187 



1 88 OUTDOOR PASTIMES 

cabin. Several boys can join forces, and in this way 
make the work easier and quicker to perform. 

Select a Site on high ground, as near to your source 
of timber as possible, and then decide upon 

The Design and Size to build it, which wall be deter- 
mined largely by the size and amount of timber you can 
procure. A plan for a cabin simple in construction is 
shown in Fig. 190, and while the details have been 
carefully worked out in this chapter for a cabin of this 
size, you will find it a simple matter to make such alter- 
ations as you wish. For the building of more pre- 
tentious cabins, the writer would refer his readers to 
" Log Cabins and Cottages " as the most practical book 
published upon this subject. In this volume its author, 
Mr. William S. Wicks, has not only written upon the 
construction and treatment of cabins, but also brought 
together a number of sketches showing a great variety 
of clever designs that have been built in different sec- 
tions of the country. In carrying out the details of 
construction for the cabin described in this chapter, the 
writer has made use of a number of ideas from this 
book, through the courtesy of Mr. Wicks and his 
publishers. 

Of course the most of 

The Material for the cabin will be secured near at 
hand, but for a good roof, and the finishing of the door 
and window openings, a few boards should be taken 
along, together with several pounds of nails. 



HOW TO BUILD A LOG-CABIN 189 

While It is customary to lay up the walls of a cabin 
and then cut the door and window openings, you will 
find it a very much simpler matter to leave the spaces 
for them when laying up the logs, as it greatly decreases 
the number of long logs required to build the cabin. 
As the inside dimensions of the cabin shown in the plan 
of Fig. 190 are ten by twelve feet, the full-length logs — 
that is, those above and below the window and door 
openings — should be thirteen feet long for the ends 
of the cabin and fifteen feet for the front and rear walls. 

To start the Cabin, stake out its length and breadth 
upon the ground, clear the space of all trees and brush, 
and make the ground as nearly level as possible. Yoli 
will find it unnecessary to have a 
foundation for a cabin of this size, 
as it will not settle to amount to 
anything. 

Probably the most simple way 
of joining the logs together is 
what is known as 

The Lock- joint. — As shown in 

Fig. 191, a notch is cut in the logs ^^^- ^9i-The Lock-joint. 

twelve inches from each end, so the surfaces of the logs 
will be brought together when the ends are fitted over 
one another, as shown in the drawing. 

Select two fifteen-foot logs for 

The Sills, and set them an inch or so into the ground, 
parallel to each other and ten feet apart. Then after 




I90 OUTDOOR PASTIMES 

cutting the notches in two thirteen-foot logs, fit them 
over the sills twelve inches from the ends. The opening 
for the fire-place must be left in one end of the cabin, 
so mark out upon the end log the width of this opening, 
which should be five feet, and cut out this section of it. 
Then cut two boards three feet long, the height of the 
fire-place opening, and nail them to the ends of the log 
just cut. These boards form the jambs of the opening. 
Locate a three-foot door opening in the centre of the 
front sill-log, and saw along these lines to within two 
inches of the ground, cutting out the piece between. 
The remaining two-inch piece will form the door-sill. 
Two pieces of board six feet six inches long, the height 
of the door opening, should now be cut for the door- 
jambs and nailed to the ends of the sill-log in the door 
opening. 

After testing the jambs with a plumb, such as is shown 
in Fig. 14, Chapter I, to see that they are perpendicular, 
continue laying the side and end logs alternately. Fit 
the logs between the jambs and nail the latter to their 
ends, being careful not to get them out of plumb in 
doing so. Above the fire-place the logs will, of course, 
be of full length, and at a height of four feet four inches 
the windows will start. Locate the window openings 
twenty-six inches wide upon the logs laid at this height, 
the one opposite the fire-place in the centre of the wall, 
and the others twelve inches from the corners. Cut the 
jambs twenty-six inches long, and, after setting them in 



HOW TO BUILD A LOG-CABIN 



191 



place, continue laying up the logs, fitting the shorter 
lengths between the jambs as before. 

When the desired height of the walls has been 
reached, which need not be more than seven feet, you 
will be ready 

To construct the Roof. — There are several w^ays of 
doing this, but as simple as any is that shown in Fig. 192, 




Fig. 192. — Interior of Cabin. 

and in the illustration of the finished cabin. In laying 
this form of roof the end logs are placed one above the 
other, but each tier of front and rear logs is set in a 



192 OUTDOOR PASTIMES 

little farther than the preceding pair, until they finally 
meet at the peak of the roof. The roofs of cabins are 
generally thatched or covered with bark, shingles, or 
boards. The thatched roof is the most artistic, and will 
last from ten to fifteen years when properly made ; but 
unless the straw is put on very thickly and closely 
woven, it is likely to leak. If you use shingles and 
expose each four and one-half inches to the weather, you 
will require about seven quarter-thousand bunches for a 
roof of this size. 

Boards will make the most simple and inexpensive 
covering. They should be put on as shown in the draw- 
ing of the completed cabin, and in Fig. 192. A layer of 
boards is first nailed across the roof-supports four inches 
apart, and other boards then lapped over these spaces 
and nailed in place. The roof boards should project a 
few inches over the side walls and gable-ends of the 
cabin. When all of the boards have been put in place, 
it will be necessary to finish off the ridge with 

Ridge Boards, to prevent water from leaking through 
the roof at that point. As shown in Fig. 192, these con- 
sist of two boards nailed along the ridge, and the edge 
of one nailed to the edge of the other. 

It is not advisable to build 

A Log Chimney and Fire-place with the intention of 
using it, for unless the work is very carefully done and 
kept in repair, there is always danger of setting fire to 
the cabin. But, nevertheless, it should be built, as it 



HOW TO BUILD A LOG-CABIN 193 

belongs to a cabin and adds greatly to its picturesque 
appearance. 

With large logs build up the chimney to a height of 
five feet, or two feet above the fire-place opening, in the 
same manner as you did the cabin walls, fitting the ends 
against the logs of the main structure. When this has 
been done sink a number of stones in front of the fire- 
place for a hearth, as shown in Figs. 190 and 192, and 
also line the bottom of the fire-place with them. Then 
mix up some clay and line the back, sides, and jambs of 
the fire-place with it from ten to twelve inches thick, 
packing the clay until it becomes solid. The upper 
part of the chimney should be made of smaller logs and 
sticks, and the inside of the flue lined with clay as the 
work proceeds. The exterior of the chimney will be 
seen in the illustration of the finished cabin. 

When the construction of the cabin has been com- 
pleted, 

Calk all the Spaces between the logs with clay and 
moss, to keep out the weather, using a pointed stick for 
this operation; and grade the ground up to a point just 
below the line of the door-sill all around the cabin, so 
that no surface-water will run within. 

The finishing of the interior of the cabin now remains 
to be done. By omitting a wooden floor the cost of 
material will be reduced considerably, and there is really 
nothing objectionable to 

A Mud Floor if it has been properly prepared. The 



194 



OUTDOOR PASTIMES 



earth should be thoroughly dried out and packed down 
until hard and compact, and slightly banked up around 
the walls. 

The sills and heads of 

The Window Openings and the head of the door open- 
ing should be cased with boards the width of the jambs. 
If you can secure sash for the windows, hinge them to 

the inside edges of the jambs as 

shown in Fig. 190, and nail a 

seven -eighths-inch window-stop 

around the jambs outside of them, 

to prevent the wind and rain from 

getting in around the sash (see 

Fig. 193). If sash cannot be 

obtained, wooden shutters made 

to fit the opening will do very 

well, as they can be used at night 

and whenever you wish to close 

up the cabin, and when you are 

within the cabin in the summer 

^^^- ^93- you will want the windows open. 

After cutting boards of the proper length for 

The Cabin Door, fasten them together with battens 

placed at the top, bottom, and centre (see Fig. 194). 

Then hinge the door to the inside of the jamb with 

either iron strap-hinges or 

Wooden Hinges such as are shown in Fig. 194. To 
make a set of wooden hinges, first cut three blocks of 




HOW TO BUILD A LOG-CABIN 



195 



wood four or five inches long and nail them to the 

cabin wall on a line with the three door battens (see A, 

B, and C in Fig. 194). Then prepare three pieces of 

wood eighteen inches long and two inches wide, and 

bore a small hole through one end of each, as shown at 

D in Fig. 195. When 

these have been made, 

nail them to the door 

above the battens so that 

when the door is put in 

place their ends will rest 

on blocks A, B, and C W'i 

Locate the holes in the 

eighteen-inch strips upon 

A, B, and C, and bore 

holes through the blocks 

at these points, after 

which set the door in 

place and fasten the 

arms of the hinges to _ _ - ^^■.^.. 

the blocks, either with Fig. 194. — The Cabin Door. 

bolts, as shown in Fig. 194, or with hardwood pegs 
cut to fit the holes. 

You will find the old-fashioned 

Wooden Latch and latch-string a very good and ser- 
viceable fastening for a cabin door, the details for the 
making of which are shown in Figs. 194, 196, 197, 198, 
and 199. It consists of three pieces of wood, — a strip 




196 



OUTDOOR PASTIMES 



two feet long and two inches wide for the latch, with 
the ends rounded and a hole bored through it at E and 
another at F, as shown in Fig. 196; a guard cut similar 
to Fig. 197, with a slot in it about three and one-half 
inches long and one inch deep ; and a catch similar to 






■Latch -str 
on-Oi'tsLde 



CabDD-Do.or 



riG.199. 



ma 

or 



-Q 



Catch 




FiG.iaa 



Fig. 137. 



p ^hoLe-for-bolt-or-WooclenPea. 



I I 
I 1 
I I 




riG.195./ijriGE. 



G 



LJ 



riG. 196. LaTCM. 

Figs. 195-199. — Details of Cabin Door. 

Fig. 198, with its upper edge rounded so the latch will 
easily slide into the slot. With the pieces thus prepared 
you will find it an easy matter to fasten them in the 
places shown in Fig. 194. The catch is set into the 
jamb of the door as shown in Fig. 198, the latch is 



HOW TO BUILD A LOG-CABIN 197 

screwed to the door at E, and the guard is fastened over 
the latch in the position shown in Fig. 194. 

The Latch-string is fastened to the latch at F, and run 
through a hole bored in the door above the top batten. 
To the outside end of the latch-string attach a weight 
of some kind to keep it from pulling through the hole 
(see Fig. 199). To lock the door from the inside, you 
will find a wooden button screwed to the door at G 
(Fig. 194) very good, as it prevents the latch from being 
lifted, when turned against it as shown in the illustration. 
As in the case of the windows, a seven-eighths-inch stop 
should be nailed to the door head and jambs outside of 
the door, for the door to swing against, and to keep out 
the rain and wind (see Fig. 193). 

You will have need of but few pieces of furniture 
within the cabin, and those can be made very simple, 
out of material at hand. 

A Mantel-shelf out of a board five feet long should be 
fastened above the fire-place by means of three triangular 
brackets, and it is a good idea to make your 

Provision Cupboard to sit upon this, as shown in the 
drawing of the cabin interior (Fig. 192). Use a couple 
of the boxes in which you bring your camping outfit 
for this. Set them side by side, as in the illustration, 
place a shelf or two within them, and, after battening 
the cover boards together, attach them to the ends of 
the boxes with hinges cut out of leather. 

On each side of the fire-place a comfortable 



198 OUTDOOR PASTIMES 

Rustic Seat should be built in as shown in Figs. 190 
and 192. The drawings clearly show the construction 
of this. The two legs are driven well into the ground, 
and a crosspiece is nailed to their tops to support the 
sticks forming the seat. Make the top of the seat about 
eighteen inches above the ground. 

While a very comfortable bed may be made upon the 
ground out of pine boughs, it is well to have at least 

Two Bunks for guests, who are almost certain to pay 
you a visit to see what kind of a time you are having, 
and perhaps test your cooking. These bunks may be 
double-decked and placed in the corner where they will 
be pretty well out of the way (see Figs. 190 and 192). 
Two six-foot poles should be driven into the ground 
about thirty inches from the wall, and two cross poles 
notched and fitted on to them as shown in Fig. 192, one 
six inches above the ground and the other three feet 
above that. Cut a number of sound sticks about three 
feet long and drive one end of each between the logs 
of the wall and fasten the other end to the crosspiece 
opposite. These sticks should be placed about three 
inches apart. In putting up this framework make every- 
thing very strong and solid, to prevent any mishaps to 
the occupants. The bunks should now be covered with 
pine boughs, cut into small pieces and spread over the 
sticks evenly and to a depth of two inches. When these 
have been properly placed, spread a doubled quilt or 
blanket over them, and the bunks will be completed. 




Two Simple Cabins. 



HOW TO BUILD A LOG-CABIN 199 

As we decided not to use our fire-place for fires, owing 
to the danger of setting fire to the cabin through some 
defects in the workmanship, or the cracking of the clay 
lining, build your camp fire-place outside of the cabin. 
You will find it more enjoyable to also eat in the open 
when the weather permits, so build 

A Camp-table between the trees for this purpose. It 
may be made out of two eight-inch boards fastened to- 
gether on the under side with battens, and supported 
at one end on a cleat nailed across the trunk of a tree 
and at the other on two poles driven into the ground. 
The height of this table will be determined by the 
height of the boxes, stools, or whatever you use for 
seats. It is a simple matter to make a long rustic seat 
on each side of the table, and if this is done make 
them eighteen inches high and the table twelve inches 
higher. 

Those of you who have camped have probably had 
enough experience to know what utensils and provisions 
are required, but 

A Few Pointers may be profitable to the boy who has 
never been initiated into camp life. 

Utensils of the commonest kind should be taken along. 
An old frying-pan, a coffee-pot, two water pails, a tin 
pan and wash-basin, tin plates and drinking cups, some 
old spoons, knives, and forks, a can-opener, and a jack- 
knife are about all you will be in need of. Among 

Other Necessities are blankets, towels, dish-cloths, rags, 



200 OUTDOOR PASTIMES 

soap, rope, and string, matches, a lantern, and an axe, a 
saw, and nails. 

For Provisions, take as much canned food as possible, 
as it requires but little preparation, is easily carried, and 
not likely to spoil. Bacon and eggs are, of course, to be 
included in your list, as they belong to a camper's bill o' 
fare, are very satisfying to a fellow's appetite when he 
has returned to camp hungry after a day's tramp through 
the woods, and a boy will have but little trouble in cook- 
ing them. Be sure you know how to prepare whatever 
food you take along to cook, before starting for camp, 
and don't experiment upon dishes you have never at- 
tempted, or you will probably make a mess of your 
materials, as is generally the case, the result of which 
will not be fit to eat. Should there be fishing near the 
site of your camp, learn the proper preparation of fish 
for your table. 



r: \ 




CHAPTER XV 

HOW TO BUILD A CANVAS 
CANOE 




Canoeing is a most delightful outdoor sport, and one 
of the healthiest in which a boy can indulge during his 
vacation days. Its popularity can plainly be seen by 
visiting any lake or stream, and noting what a large 
percentage of the small craft dotting its surface are 
canoes of various shapes and sizes, paddled by boys 
of all ages. 

For speed and the ease with which it can be carried 
about, the birch-bark canoe has no equal, but very few 
boys own them, as they are expensive, and their con- 
struction is more difhcult than those of other material 
which will satisfy a boy fully as well. 

The canvas canoe is more widely used at the present 
time than any other form, which is no doubt due to the 
fact that it is very simple to make and keep in repair, 
and the cost of its material is small. 

In building a canvas canoe there are two important 
things to consider, — its weight and strength. These 
depend upon the material used. The framework must 
be made stiff enough to hold its shape, as the canvas 



201 



202 OUTDOOR PASTIMES 

adds but little to its strength, and at the same time the 
\vood should be as light as possible. There are a great 
variety of 

Materials from which to choose for building the 
framework, among which basswood, ash, spruce, and 
pine may be classed. The canoe described and illus- 
trated in this chapter may have its ribs, ribbands, and 
gunwales made out of lattice-strips and barrel-hoops, 
which will save the cost of having them cut to the right 
size at a mill. Pine or fir lattice-strips of good sound 
stuff are generally easy to obtain in all locations. 

SIZES OF STRIPS AND PIECES REQUIRED 

I piece of 2-inch by 8-inch plank 6 feet long for bow and stern. pieces. 
15 2-inch by f-inch lattice strips 12 feet long for ribbands, gunwales, 

keel, and bilge-keels. 
20 barrel-hoops for ribs and deck braces. 

1 strip 8 feet long, 2 inches wide, and i inch thick for keelson. 

2 strips 4 feet long, 2 inches wide, and f-inch thick for deck ridge pieces. 
2 strips 8 feet long, 4 inches wide, and ^-inch thick for cock-pit frame 

and coaming. 
Several 6-inch and 8-inch boards from which to cut deck beams, pat- 
terns, etc. 

Copper nails and brass screws should be purchased 
for fastening the framework together, and copper tacks 
for putting on the canvas. Iron nails will rust and 
break off, and therefore should not be used in any part 
of the canoe's construction. Use nails only where their 
ends can be clinched, and screws in all cases where this 
cannot be done. For coverinsf the framework, three 



HOW TO BUILD A CANVAS CANOE 



203 



I and one-half yards of canvas forty inches wide will be 
required for the lower portion, and the same amount 
thirty inches wide will be required for the deck. Boiled 
linseed-oil should be purchased for filling the canvas 
and the best grade of mixed paint for painting it. A 
drab, or cream color and white trimmings, are both 
suitable for a canoe. If the latter is used, buy white 
paint, and, after pouring out enough to cover the finishing 
strips, mix the rest with enough yellow ochre to make a 
pretty shade of cream. 

Below will be found a bill of the material required 
to build a canoe such as this chapter describes, and 
although the prices of canvas and a few of the fittings 
are likely to fluctuate somewhat, the price of the canoe 
should not exceed this amount, and there are locations 
where it may be less. 



BILL OF MATERIAL 

3 J yards No. 10 Duck, 30 inches wide, 27 cents 
3^ yards No. 10 Duck, 40 inches wide, 36 cents 
i^ pounds i-inch Copper Nails, 30 cents . 
2 pounds |-inch Copper Tacks, 35 cents . 

2 dozen f-inch Brass Screws (Flat Heads), 7 cents 
6 dozen |-inch Brass Screws (Flat Heads), 6 cents 

3 dozen f-inch Brass Screws (Round Heads), 6 cents 
^ gallon Boiled Linseed-oil .... 
^ gallon Best Quality Mixed Paint 
15 Lattice-strips, 12 feet long .... 
I Piece of 2-inch by 8-inch Plank 6 feet long . 
Miscellaneous Strips and Pieces (see page 202) 

Total cost ...... 



go.95 
1.26 

•45 
.70 
.14 
•36 
.18 

•25 

.90 

.20 

-50 

^6.64 



204 



OUTDOOR PASTIMES 




Having procured the necessary material for the canoe, 
the first things to make are 

The Bow and Stern Pieces (see Fig. 200). — The proper 
way of laying these out on the eight-inch plank is shown 

in Fig. 201. First cut the 

plank in half, and then place 

these two pieces side by side 

upon the floor or work-bench, 

as shown in the drawing, 

one piece upon which to 

draw the pattern, and the 

other upon which to locate 

the centre for drawing the 

curves. Then square the 

line AB across the planks, 

and locate the points D and E on either side of it, by 

means of the measurements given upon the drawing. 

The most satisfactory scheme for 

Drawing the Curves is with a piece of cord, to one end 
of which a pencil has been tied (see Fig. 201). With 
this as your compass, hold the end of the cord at D for a 
centre, and with a radius of ten and one-quarter inches 
strike an arc cutting the line AB as at C. C is now 
the required centre for drawing the curves. Drive a 
small nail into the plank at C, and wind the end of the 
compass cord around it until the correct length of radius 
is obtained (see drawing). Describe the arc DE with 
a radius equal to CD, or ten and one-quarter inches. 



Fig. 200. — Bow and Stern Pieces. 



HOW TO BUILD A CANVAS CANOE 



205 



Then with a ruler lay off along the line AB the dis- 
tances for the other arcs, as shown in the drawing. FG 
will be two inches from DE, HI an inch and one-half 
from FG, and JK an inch and one-quarter from HI. 
Having located these points and described the arcs, 




Fig. 201, 



draw the lines CD and CE, extending them so as to 
cut off the arcs, as in the drawing. At the upper end 
of the pattern draw the line LM one inch from and 
parallel to FD. With a radius of an inch and three- 
quarters and the centre N describe an arc as shown 



2o6 OUTDOOR PASTIMES 

in the drawing. At the lower end of the pattern draw 
the Hne OP two inches from and parallel to GK, and 
the line QR one inch from and parallel to PK. Hav- 
ing carefully drawn out this pattern, turn over the plank 
and draw the same thing upon it, locating the points 
exactly opposite one another, by squaring lines across 
the sides and edge. Prepare the other piece of plank 
similarly. To cut out the patterns, place them in the 
vise of your work-bench, one at a time, and rabbet the 
surfaces between DE and FG, and FG and HI, as 
shown in the section drawing. Fig. 202. This done 
reverse the piece and do the same to 
r'^^^f^^^X that side. When these surfaces have 

^^~V^^^S^j^^^' been trued up carefully, remove the 
Fig. 202. — Section piece from the vise and saw the pat- 
through Bow and ^^^^ f^^^ .^^ In doing this, first saw 

Stern Pieces. ^ ^ 

along the lines DJ and EK, and cut 
out the corners FLMD and PQRK, Then follow 
roughly the curves of lines DE and JP, after which 
place the work in the vise and trim them off nicely with 
a draw-knife, rounding the outer curve as shown in 
Fig. 202. The portion OQRG should be cut down to 
a plain surface as shown in Fig. 200. 

With the bow and stern pieces completed, the most 
difficult part of your work has been accomplished. 
Now pick out the eight-foot strip procured for 
The Keelson. — Square off the ends so that it is exactly 
eight feet long, and then, commencing six inches from 



HOW TO BUILD A CANVAS CANOE 



207 



one end, lay off mortises for the ribs (see Fig. 203). 
These mortises should be cut half an inch deep and the 
width of the barrel- 
hoops, and their cen- y- 
tres should be spaced \ 
twelve inches apart. ^^^- ^°3 



^ 



MOrr, ses for Pibs IZ'Apart 

To be vjtdth of Barrel hoops 
and '/2 Deep 



Z?^ 



The Keelson. 

In order to give the correct shape to the canoe in 
putting the framework together, it will be necessary to 
make 

A Mould similar to Fig. 204. Fasten together two 
boards about two feet long with battens, as shown in the 

drawing, and with 
1 a piece of cord to 
which a pencil has 
been attached de- 
scribe a semicircle 
upon it, using a 
radius of eleven 
and one-half inches. 
Saw out the mould 
carefully, and in the centre of the bottom cut a mortise 
two inches by one-half for the keelson to fit in. 
Everything should now be in readiness 
To put the Framework together. — In order to give the 
keelson the proper slope of one inch between its centre 
and ends, nail two blocks of wood one inch thick to the 
work-bench eight feet apart, and rest the ends of the 
keelson upon them. Then fasten the ends of the keel- 




FiG. 204. — The Mould. 



2o8 OUTDOOR PASTIMES 

son in the mortises cut in the bottom of the bow and 
stern pieces. Set the mould which you have prepared 
over the exact centre of the keelson, and fasten it in 
place temporarily. When this has been done take two 
lattice-strips for 

The Gunwales, and after locating the exact centre of 
each, screw them at this point to the ends of the mould 
just below the top. Drive these screws but part way in, 
as the mould is to be removed later on. Commencing 
at the bow end of the canoe, draw the end of one gun- 
wale to the bow piece, and, after marking it the correct 
length cut it off so it will fit nicely in the rabbet cut in 
the side of the bow piece. Then screw the other end to 
the stern piece, after which attach the gunwale on the op- 
posite side in the same way (see Figs. 200, 205, and 206). 

Now take the barrel-hoops which are to be used for 
ribs, and fasten them in the mortises cut for them in the 
keelson, bending their ends until they come inside of 
the gunwales. Then fasten them to the gunwales and 
trim their ends so as to be even with the top of the 
canoe (see Figs. 205 and 206). 

After fastening the ribs in place, 

The Ribbands should be put on. Pick out eight of the 
soundest lattice-strips you have, and fasten these at their 
centre to the sides of the mould, placing four on each 
side of the keelson and spacing them at equal distances. 
As the mould is only temporary, do not fasten the 
ribbands to it securely, but drive in the nails part way. 




209 



2IO 



OUTDOOR PASTIMES 




Then, beginning at the bow, draw the ends of the 

ribbands to the bow piece one at a time, and cut them 

off so they will fit neatly into the rabbet. Screw them 

in place, being careful to space them as equally as 

possible, after which attach the stern ends in the same 

way. Figure 205 shows the top view of the canoe at 

this stage of its construction. 

The Deck Beams should now be made and put in place, 

one each side of the cockpit, or fourteen inches from 

^- r.-A. *• X the centre of the 
Zj[%^ J^orti se for 

Ei^s^ canoe (see Fig. 
207). At this 
point measure 
the exact dis- 
tance between 
the gunwales, 
and lay it off 
upon a four-inch 
board (see Fig. 
208). The top of 
this piece should 
be curved as 
shown in the 
drawing, and a 
mortise two inches wide by five-eighths of an inch 
deep should be cut in the edge for the deck ridge 
pieces to fit in. As a means of preventing the gun- 
wales from spreading, it is best to dovetail the ends 



Fig. 208. — Deck Beam 
Mortise 





Fig. 209. 

Mortises for Deck braces. 






\S=^iS 



Fig. 211. — Ridge Piece. 
Figs. 208-211. — Details of Deck Beam and Ridge. 



HOW TO BUILD A CANVAS CANOE 211 

of the deck beams into them (see Fig. 207). Cut a 
tongue half an inch long and half an inch thick on each 
end of the beams, as shown in Fig. 209, undercutting 
it slightly, as in the drawing, to make it wedge-shaped. 
Then, having prepared the ends, place the beams in the 
positions they will occupy in the framework, and mark 
upon the top of the gunwales the shape of the tongues. 
Mortise the gunwales at these points (Fig. 210), so the 
tongues can be slipped into them and fastened in place. 
By examining the corners of a drawer you will see clearly 
how the dovetail joint is made. 

The Ridge Pieces are strips running from the deck 
beams to the bow and stern pieces (see Figs. 206 and 
207). For this canoe, they should be made out of a strip 
two inches wide by five-eighths of an inch thick. Cut 
them of correct length to reach from the mortises in the 
tops of the deck beams to the mortises cut in the tops of 
the bow and stern pieces. Mortises two inches wide 
and a quarter inch deep should be cut along the top 
of these ridges, as shown in Fig. 211, to receive the 
deck braces. Securely screw the ridges in place. Then 
cut twelve pieces of barrel-hoops for 

The Deck Braces, and fit them in the mortises made in 
the ridge pieces. Screw these in place and bend their 
ends until they can be fastened to the inside face of the 
gunwales. The curve of these braces should be the 
same as that of the deck beams, so it will be possible to 
put on the deck canvas neatly (see Figs. 206 and 207). 



212 OUTDOOR PASTIMES 

The space between the deck beams is left for 

The Cockpit, the frame for which we are now ready to 
prepare. First remove the mould, being careful that the 
framework does not spread in doing so. Then cut two 
two-inch strips to fit between the deck beams, and fasten 
one on each side of the cockpit two inches from the 
gunwale (see Fig. 207). When this has been done take 
the strip eight feet long, four inches wide, and one- 
quarter inch thick, procured for the cockpit frame, and 
bend it around the opening, fastening it to the sides of 
the deck beams and the side strips. The top edge of 
the frame should now be shaved off with a draw-knife, 
so that it will be on a line with the deck braces at every 
point (see Fig. 206). This is necessary in order to make 
the curve of the deck around the cockpit the same as 
elsewhere. 

The framework of the canoe is now completed, and 
should be painted and left to dry before you go on with 
the rest of the work. 

It is no easy matter to stretch 

The Canvas Covering over the framework without hav- 
ing it wrinkle, but with the help of a boy friend it can 
be stretched fairly even, and with care and patience may 
be made to look neat. ■ 

Turn the framework bottom side up and, after finding 
the centre of the forty-inch strip of canvas, lay it along 
the keelson from bow to stern. Smooth it over the 
surface with your hands, and start a few tacks along the 



I 



. HOW TO BUILD A CANVAS CANOE 213 

keelson to hold it in place. As a means of keeping 
the canvas stretched over the bottom of the framework 
while working upon it, attach several weights to the 
edges ; then, with your helper on the side opposite you, 
commence at the middle rib and stretch the canvas down 
that rib to the gunwales, starting a couple of tacks in 
the gunwales to hold it in place. Then work along 
each rib from the centre of the framework toward the 
bow, and then from the centre toward the stern, stretch- 
ing the canvas as tightly as possible, and driving tacks 
along the gunwales not farther than one inch apart. 
You will find that the only way to get the canvas on 
smoothly is by removing the tacks wherever any wrin- 
kles appear and, after restretching it, replacing the tacks. 
As the tacks will probably have to be removed a number 
of times during the operation, it is advisable to drive 
them in but a little way at first. 

It is most difficult to make a neat job at the bow and 
stern, and a few wrinkles will probably remain, no matter 
how much pains are taken in fitting the canvas, on ac- 
count of the narrowing of the canoe at these points. 
Fill the outer mortise made in the bow and stern pieces 
with paint, and, after folding the edges of the canvas, 
tack it in these mortises. Place the tacks as close 
as their heads will permit, which, together with the 
paint, will make a joint that water cannot penetrate. 
Now examine the canoe carefully, and, if you have 
smoothed out the wrinkles as much as possible, drive 



214 OUTDOOR PASTIMES 

home the tacks and trim the canvas close to the gun- 
wales. 

The Deck Is much easier to cover. Spread the piece 
of thirty-inch canvas over it from bow to stern, with the 
centre of the canvas running along the centre of the 
deck, and place a tack in it at the bow and another at 
the stern. Stretch the canvas in the same manner as 
when covering the bottom of the framework, and lap it 
over the gunwales, tacking it along the outer edge. Cut 
through the canvas at the cockpit, and trim it off so 
there will be just enough to lap around the cockpit 
frame. Trim the canvas along the gunwales so that it 
does not project more than an inch. 

After the deck has been covered, the canoe is ready 
for 

Painting. — A coat of linseed-oil should first be applied 
to the canvas, to fill the pores and make a good founda- 
tion for the paint. Then allow the canvas to dry thor- 
oughly, after which give it a coat of paint, — cream, or 
whatever color you have selected. When this has dried, 
rub it down with pumice-stone or fine emery-paper, and 
apply a second coat. 

All that now remains to complete the canoe is the 
attachment of the cockpit coaming, the keel, bilge-keels, 
and the outside gunwales. Take the strip eight feet 
long, four inches wide, and one-quarter inch thick, which 
you procured for 

The Cockpit Coaming, bend it around the frame of the 



HOW TO BUILD A CANVAS CANOE 



pit, and cut off the ends so they will join 
neatly. Then fasten it to the cockpit 
frame, allowing two inches to project 
above the deck, and shave off the top 
edge the same as you did the cockpit 
frame, so it will be two inches above 
the deck at every point. 

For a small canoe built for paddling 
only, it is unnecessary to have anything 
more than a strip fastened to the bottom 
for 

The Keel. — So cut a lattice-strip eight 
feet in length, and screw it along the 
bottom of the keelson (see Fig. 212). 

The Bilge-keels are lattice-strips fas- 
tened along the sides of the canoe as a 
protection to the canvas, and should be 
attached directly over the ribbands. One 
of these on the centre ribband of each 
side will be sufficient (see Fig. 212). 

For a finish to the upper edge of 
the canoe, 

Outside Gunwales should be attached 
outside of 'the present ones. These will 
cover the joint between the canvas of 
the deck and the lower portion of the 
framework. All of these outside strips 
should be fastened in place with the 




2i6 OUTDOOR PASTIMES 

round-headed screws, after which they should be painted. 

Figure 212 shows the canoe completed. 

A Seat is desirable for the bottom of the canoe, for 

comfort as well as to prevent your feet from wearing 

._, ^ . out the canvas. This 

— \^ seat should be movable, 

R 1 = ^ 



SO it may be taken out 
Fig. 213. — Seat. 1 • 1 

to dram the water from 

the bottom of the canoe, and may be made as shown 

in Fig. 213. Batten together two six-inch boards upon 

their under face and notch the two side edges to fit over 

the ribs of the framework (see Fig. 207). 

In order to keep your canoe in good condition, do 
not allow it to remain in the water for any length of 
time when not using it, as the canvas would soon rot by 
doing so. After a spin, pull it out of the water, and 
turn it upside down to dry ; then put it away under 
cover to remain until again wanted for use. 

With the greatest of care a boy will puncture his 
canoe once in a while, so it is a good idea for him to 
know 

How to mend Punctures. — There are several ways of 
doing this, but the best is by either sewing a piece of 
canvas over the puncture and then painting it with 
white lead, or daubing the canvas around the hole with 
varnish, and then laying a canvas patch over it and 
varnishing it. 

The making of a well-shaped paddle is no easy matter 



HOW TO BUILD A CANVAS CANOE 217 

for an amateur to accomplish, so it is advisable for a boy 
to procure 

A Hand-made Single Paddle, such as can be bought for 
a dollar and a half. This is generally made of selected 
spruce, with a copper-tipped end, and is nicely finished. 
The length of the paddle will depend upon the size of 
the boy who is going to use it, but should be between 
four feet six inches and five feet. 

It may be well to warn those who build canvas canoes 
about the ease with which they are overturned. As long 
as the boy remains seated he is perfectly safe, but the 
moment he attempts to change his position, he need not 
be surprised if he receives a ducking. Upsets are com- 
mon in canoe-racing, and especially in a close finish, 
where one paddler after another overbalances himself in 
his efforts to beat out his companions. But these only 
add to the fun of such a race, and no harm is done if the 
canoeist prepares for them beforehand by putting on his 
bathing suit. 




CHAPTER XVI 

HOME-MADE TRAPS 




Trapping and trap-making is, and probably always 
will be, a pastime which every boy enjoys. If he lives in 
the country or near the woods he is sure to grow fond 
of the wild creatures around him, and spend some time 
in following their tracks and watching their ways and 
habits. If he is a city boy he may not have these ad- 
vantages, but is probably just as much interested in the 
study of birds and animals as his country cousin is, and 
when the opportunity presents itself will slip off to the 
nearest woods to spend the day with his little friends, 
and perhaps carry one or two back home to share city 
life with him. 

When boys wish to trap animals for pets, or for eating 
while camping, or when they have become so numerous 
in a locality as to be a nuisance, it can be considered 
clean sport ; but as soon as they begin to trap and kill 
them just for the fun of it, without deriving any good 
whatever from the act, they are guilty of a great cruelty. 

The various forms and schemes for home-made traps 
that have been devised, and which are to be found in use 



HOME-MADE TRAPS 219 

by boys all over the country, are countless, but there are 
of course a number of these which are more effective 
than others, and some which have gained more favor 
among boys. Several years ago the author wrote an 
article upon traps, and has since been more than pleased 
to note the success boys have had in making and using 
them. With a few additions, the same schemes have 
been embodied in this chapter, and it is hoped that the 
several kinds of snares and traps will prove as satisfying 



Catch. 



Upright. 



Trigger. FiG. 214. — Stick for the Figure-four Trap. 

to the majority of boy trappers. They are all simple to 
make, require but the material ordinarily at hand, and 
are effective for most of the smaller species of animals, 
and many varieties of birds. 

One of the oldest forms of traps, and one of which 
every boy should understand the construction, is 

The Figure-four Trap. — It is about the simplest ex- 
ample, and its principle will be found in the schemes of 
a great many of the more complicated traps. For this 
the preparation of three sticks, such as are shown in 
Fig. 214, will be necessary. These sticks may be made 



OUTDOOR PASTIMES 



of any length you wish, but their proportion should be 
about as shown in the drawings. The illustrations show 




Fig. 215. — The Figure-four. 

clearly how the sticks should be notched, and how one 
end of the trigger should be tapered for the bait. Fig. 
215 will explain the manner in which these sticks are 
placed together in the form of a figure-four. The rest 

of the trap consists of a 
soap- or cracker-box with 
the cover hinged to it. 

To set the trap, place the 
box upon the ground, cover 
down, and rest its upper 
edge upon the top of the 
figure - four, as shown in 
Fig. 216. When putting the figure-four together, it is 
necessary to hold the sticks until the box is set upon 
them, as the weight is required to hold them in position. 




Fig. 216. — The Figure-four 
Trap set. 



HOME-MADE TRAPS 



221 



For squirrels and rabbits, for which this trap is very good, 
bait the trigger with a carrot, piece of apple, or cabbage 
leaf. It is easy to see that the slightest nibble at the 
bait will disarrange the sticks, and cause the box to drop 



over the game. 




Back of box- 



Fig. 2 1 8. — Cross Section of Trap. Fig. 217. 

Figs. 217-219. — A Box Trap. 

In Fig. 217 is show^n an invention of the writer's, a 
simplified form of the much-used 

Box Trap, having the principle of the figure-four in- 
volved in its trigger. This trap has proven exception- 
ally good for rabbits and squirrels. 

A small box about the size of a cracker- or soap-box 
should be procured for the making of this trap. Remove 
one end, and, after nailing it to the cover boards, hinge 
the latter to the end of the box, as shown in the illus- 
trations (Figs. 217 and 218). With no hinges at hand, 
the writer has found several nails driven through the 



222 OUTDOOR PASTIMES 

ends of the cover boards sufficient to hold the cover 
while opening and closing it. Bore two holes, one over 
the other, in the back of the box, and cut out the space 
between. This makes a rectangular slot (see D in Fig. 
218). When this has been done, take a stick about 
eighteen inches long, and, after tapering one end, nail it 
to the box cover, allowing the tapered end to project 
about nine inches. Then prepare a trigger twelve inches 
long, similar to Fig. 219. 

The trap is now ready to set, which is done by slipping 
the trigger into the slot at D and, after baiting it at C, 
catching the notch B on to the box at the top of the slot, 
at the same time fitting stick E into the notch at A (see 
cross section, Fig 218). The weight of the cover will 
now hold the trigger in place until "bunny," or some 
one of his neighbors, attacks the inviting bait. Then the 
trigger will loosen its hold at B, and cause the cover to 
fall over the intruder. A few holes may be bored in the 
side of the box for ventilation, but these, as well as the 
slot in the back, should be protected with tin, to prevent 
your captive from gnawing the openings large enough 
to escape. 

The Dead Fall is a trap commonly used for skunks, 
minks, muskrats, and coons, and probably cannot be 
excelled as a means of killing off destructive and annoy- 
ing animals. Figure 220 shows a form of this trap which 
has been successfully employed. 

First make a pen out of stakes driven well into the 



HOME-MADE TRAPS 



223 



ground in the form of a wigwam. This is a guard for 
the bait, and should be open on one side only^ as shown 
in the illustration. 

Place a short log in front of the opening, and at both 
ends of this drive a stake against the outer face of the 
log, as shown in the drawing. Then procure a log of 
the same diameter, and about six feet long, and slip it 
between these stakes and the wigwam, so it falls upon the 




Fig. 220. — The Dead Fall. 

first log. Cut a forked stick about twelve inches long 
for the bait-stick, notching one end and tapering the 
other, as shown in Fig. 221, and cut another stick twenty- 
four inches long and flatten it at both ends. 

To set the dead fall, raise an end of the upper log and 
slip one end of the flattened stick under it, resting it 
upon the top of the stake outside of the log. Place the 
bait-stick, point downward, inside of the pen upon a chip 



224 



OUTDOOR PASTIMES 



of wood, and set the other end of the flattened stick in 
the notch (see illustration). The bait-stick should now 
be in such a position that the log above it will fall when 
the bait is tackled, and strike its victim on the head or 
neck with sufficient force to kill it. For baiting this trap, 
use some food of which the animal is particularly fond. 

The Sieve Trap. — This is a most simple form of trap, 
consisting of a sieve and a short stick with which to 




Fig. 222. — The Coop Trap. 

prop up one side of it. Fasten a long cord to the stick, 
and, after scattering grain beneath the sieve, carry the 
end of the cord to a place of concealment to await the 
appearance of some birds. As soon as these are attracted 
by the grain, and begin feeding under the sieve, pull the 
cord and they will be your prisoners. 

The Coop Trap, shown in Fig. 222, can be used for 
trapping the larger variety of birds. This is well known 



HOME-MADE TRAPS 



225 



as an effective trap for wild turkeys. It consists of a 
number of sticks piled up in the form of a pyramid and 
tied together as shown in Fig. 222. Dig away enough 
of the ground under one side of the coop to allow a bird 
to enter, and then scatter some grain inside and a little 
in the entrance to attract the birds. 

It may seem strange to the reader, but it is neverthe- 
less a fact, that, after entering the coop, a bird will try to 



Fig 



Fig. 226. 




Fig. 224. Fig. 223. 

A Rabbit Snare and Twitch-up. 



fly out of the top, and will remain there until starved to 
death, if not released, without attempting to escape by 
the way it entered. 

A Rabbit Snare. — This can be used to the best ad- 
vantage after the first snowfall, for the footprints of a 
rabbit are then easy to follow. Bunny can be counted 



2 26 OUTDOOR PASTIMES 

upon keeping in the same path to and from his burrow, 
and a snare set in the centre of his path is pretty certain 
to catch him before very long. The snare should be 
made of a piece of soft wire about two feet long. Make 
a noose in one end about four inches in diameter, and 
fasten the other end to a branch projecting over the 
path (see Fig. 223). 

This noose is commonly attached to what is known 
as 

A Twitch-up, or a sapling bent down and held as 
shown in Fig. 224. One of a number of schemes 
employed for holding the sapling in position is here 
shown. Select a spot a few feet from a sapling, and 
there make an enclosure about twelve inches in diame- 
ter. This should be made of twelve-inch sticks driven 
into the ground in a circle, leaving an opening of about 
six inches on one side. Drive a stake into the ground 
on both sides of the entrance, and cut a notch in the 
outer face of each about six inches above the ground 
(see Fig. 225). Find a twig somewhat similar to the 
one in Fig. 226, and, after slipping it into the notches 
and baiting the prong, fasten the noose and sapling 
to it. With the trap thus set, a slight pull on the bait 
dislodges the crosspiece, and the sapling springs up, 
jerking the animal into the air, and causing its death 
almost instantly. 

Ranchers of the Western plains and mountains are 
continually experiencing severe losses from the attacks 



r 




HOME-MADE TRAPS 227 

of wolves and coyotes upon their live-stock, and to rid 
themselves from the nightly raids of these animals re- 
quires unceasing warfare against them with traps. But 
the wolf and coyote are very crafty fellows, and extremely 
keen-scented, so that even professional trappers have 
trouble in capturing them, often resorting to every 
scheme they can devise without success. Steel traps 
are generally employed by the professional, as they are 
less cumbersome and quicker to set than the home-made 
affairs. The traps are handled with gloves, as the touch 
of the bare hands would be instantly detected by the 
wary animals, and, after being placed in a circle around 
the bait, are covered over with leaves and brush. In 
order not to leave human footprints behind him, the 
trapper often sets them while mounted upon horseback. 

Not long ago, a trapper was hired by a rancher in 
New Mexico to capture some Loboe wolves which had 
been making serious raids upon the cattle, and one of 
his experiences while working there was somewhat laugh- 
able, though probably not seen in that way by all the 
parties concerned. Using a dead calf for bait, the trap- 
per dragged it to a selected spot, and there surrounded 
it by eight or ten traps, which he chained fast to stakes, 
and carefully hid from view. Setting out to visit the 
traps as usual, on the following morning, he mounted a 
knoll from which he could see the location of the bait, 
and there plainly made out that a number of his traps 
had been sprung and were occupied. But upon reaching 



228 OUTDOOR PASTIMES 

the spot, his surprise and disgust can be imagined 
when he found a dog in one trap and a bad-tempered 
Indian held fast by the clutches of three others. After 
releasing the captives, the trapper gathered from the 
Indian's half-broken English that he had been riding 
by on the previous night, and his dog had wandered 
from the trail and sprung a trap. He had then dis- 
mounted to release the animal, but had not taken more 
than half a dozen steps before his foot became clutched 
in a trap, the force of which threw him forward, and, 
in trying to break his fall with his outstretched hands, 
each became securely clutched in traps. Fortunately 
no wolves made their appearance, and the couple were 
unharmed ; but the Indian no doubt spent a sleep- 
less and uncomfortable night in the position he was 
forced to occupy. 







CHAPTER XVII 

TOY GUNS, TARGETS, AND 
BOWS AND ARROWS 




Some of the old war engines used in Europe before 
the introduction of gunpowder w^ere most ingeniously 
contrived, and were wonderfully effective, considering 
that their projective force was obtained by means of 
springs and levers. It is hard to find many good ex- 
amples, as authorities have badly confused them, but the 
writer has been fortunate in securing drawings of what 
he believes to be pure types of the most commonly used 
guns. These are reproduced on page 230, believing that 
the average boy will be interested to see the kind of 
weapons that were employed in warfare centuries ago. 
With a little study, the working of these guns will be 
clearly understood without further explanation than what 
is given upon the drawings. The catapult (Fig. 227) 
and the trebuchet (Fig. 228) were used for storming 
fortifications, and each hurled large stones. The treb- 
uchet was a much later invented machine than the cata- 
pult, and, being built on a much larger scale, was more 
powerful. It is claimed that trebuchets were often built 
large enough to hurl carcasses of horses into an enemy's 

229 



<fl 


















1 


?Si 






■♦-1 V. 




o 


s ^ 






i& 






2 


a 


O 


o 


3 


[^ 


>, 


o 




& < 



TOY GUNS, TARGETS, AND BOWS AND ARROWS 231 

fortifications. The ballista (Fig. 229) was in reality a 
large cross-bow, built to shoot long, heavy bolts or arrows. 
The illustration shows a form mounted upon wheels for 
field service. The cross-bow (Fig. 230) was a weapon 
used by the foot-soldiers of a number of European coun- 
tries. It was in use in England for some time, but, on 
account of the terrible wounds inflicted by its short 
barbed arrows, was finally forbidden and superseded by 
the long-bow. 

Some ideas for the making of toy shot-guns and pis- 
tols, worked by springs and levers much the same as the 




Details of Trigger. 
Figs. 231-233. — A Cross-bow. 

ancient guns, will be appreciated by the boy who is 
denied the use of firearms. The schemes illustrated 
and described on the following pages will be found easy 
to carry out, and such as will furnish enjoyment for many 
a day in the woods or back-yard. 
' Figure 231 shows a new idea for 

A Cross-bow. — The stock for this should be cut out of 
a tongued-and-grooved board, with the groove running 



232 OUTDOOR PASTIMES 

along the top, and a mortise should be made at A in 
which to set the trigger. This mortise should be about 
two inches long and as wide as the thickness of the 
board will permit, and is made by boring a couple of 
holes through the stock at this point, and cutting out 
the wood between with a chisel. Select a strong barrel- 
hoop for the bow, and fasten it at its centre in a hole cut 
for it at B, driving a nail into it at C. The trigger should 
be made similar to D in Fig. 232. Cut block E out of 
a piece of tongued board, leaving the tongue to fit 
the groove in the gunstock. Notch the bottom to fit 
over D (see Fig. 233). Place a tack in each side of the 
block, and run cords from them to the end of the bow. 
These cords must be of such a length that the bow will 
bend almost to its limit when block E is placed over the 
trigger. A heavy rubber band should be attached to 
the lower end of the trigger, and to a tack at F. This 

must be strong enough to 
cock the trigger. 

The cross-bow will shoot 
either pebbles or arrows, 
but the latter are the most 

Fig. 234. — Shingle Arrows for Cross-bow. , . r 

satisfactory. 
Shingle Arrows are very good, as they shoot straight, 
and are so quickly made as to be easily replaced by a 
fresh lot when lost or broken. Mark them out as shown 
in Fig. 234, with the head at the thick edge of the shingle 
arid the tail at the thin edge, and cut them out with your 




TOY GUNS, TARGETS, AND BOWS AND ARROWS 233 



jack-knife. The head and tail are made flat on one side, 
so as to He flat in the groove of the gun. 

A Toy Pistol can also be made out of a tongued-and- 
grooved board. Some such shape as shown in Fig. 235 
should first be drawn upon the board, with the groove 
extending along the top. Cut this out with your jack- 
knife, and make 



a mortise for the 
trigger. Cut the 
trio^o-er similar to 



^'Rvbh erband ^Cardbo ard. 

Fig. 237. 



Fig. 236. 



Fig. 


236, f 


asten- 


ing 


it in 


place 


with 


a brad driven 




through it 2X A. { / Fig. 235. 

It will be noticed 

. Figs. 235-237. — A Toy Pistol. 

that the trigger is 

notched at both ends. These notches are for a rubber 
band, which should be stretched from the upper notch 
of the trigger, over the muzzle, and around to the lower 
notch, as shown in the drawing. The rubber band lies 
in the groove in the top of the pistol. 

The Bullets for this pistol consist of pieces of card- 
board cut into small squares. To load the pistol, slip 
one of the squares through the rubber band as shown in 
Fig. 237, so that it rests on top of the groove, as shown 
in Fig. 235, Upon pulling the trigger the bullet will 
shoot out of its position, and though naturally one 
might think the loop of the rubber band would catch 



234 



OUTDOOR PASTIMES 




Fig. 238. 



the card, it is not the case. The card frees itself and 
travels in a straight line in the direction in which 
B the pistol is aimed. It is advisable to keep 
this pistol out of range of your companions' 
faces. 

A Shot-gun can be made on the same 
scheme as the pistol, by cutting a stock the 
size of that used for the cross-bow (Fig. 
231), and fastening several rubber bands 
together to extend around the added length. 
An Elastic Sling made with a wire frame- 
work, as shown in Fig. 238, is an improvement over the 
one made out of a tree crotch, as it is not easily broken. 
About No. 12 wire, which is the thickness of eight-penny 
nails, should be bought 
for this. With a pair of 
pincers, bend it into the 
shape shown in the drawl- 
ing, with loops at A and B. 
Wrap the handle with 
cord, and attach strong 
rubber bands to A and B^ 
with a piece of shoe 
leather or kid glove set 

in between, at C. Fig. 239. — a Barrel-hoop Target. 

A most satisfactory scheme for 

A Boy's Target is shown in Fig. 239. It consists of a 
barrel-hoop, fastened by means of staples to a wooden 



Screweyes 




TOY GUNS, TARGETS, AND BOWS AND ARROWS 235 




platform, as shown in the illustration. Pack the inside 
of the hoop with earth which has been moistened suf- 
ficiently to make it hold together, and place a piece of 
paper over it, pasting it to the edges of the hoop. The 
paper will be stretched as tight as a drumhead when 
dry. Five rings should then be painted upon it, as 
shown in the illustration. Fasten screw-eyes in the top 
of the platform, and hang the target 
by these wherever you wish to use it. 

By preparing several sheets of 
paper, a fresh piece may be pasted 
over the hoop after one has been 
filled with holes. The earth will 
prevent the paper from splitting, / 
and will be soft enough for the end ^cardboard 
of an arrow to stick into. Should 
the earth become too dry, it may 
be moistened each time a new 
paper is put in place. 

A Simpler Target, and a scheme 
which will answer a boy's purpose, 
if he does not care to go to the 
trouble of making the hoop target, 
is shown in Fig. 240. A circular 
piece of cardboard, with five rings painted upon it, is 
tacked to the end of a broom-handle, and this is stuck 
into the ground. 

Points are Scored in target shooting as follows : Bull's- 



Broom- 
HaDdle-^ 



Fig. 240. — A Simpler 
Target. 



236 



OUTDOOR PASTIMES 



yNOtCh 



eye, 9 points ; second ring, 7 points ; third ring, 5 points ; 
fourth ring, 3 points ; fifth, or outside ring, i point. 

The Bow and Arrow is always popular with boys who 
are forbidden the use of guns. Authorities claim that 
the best materials from which to make 
bows are mulberry, sassafras, Southern 
cedar, black locust, black walnut, apple, 
and slippery elm, in the order named ; but 
if a boy selects what appears to be a good 
sound piece of wood, with straight grain, 
he has something which will suit the 
purpose. 

The Length of the Bow should be about 
the height of the person using it. Figure 
241 shows a five-foot bow, with the other 
proportions such as are on makes to be 
found in the stores. Cut your piece of 
wood five feet long, and, after placing it 
in the bench-vise, shape it down with a 
draw-knife or plane until it is one inch 
wide by one-half inch thick at the handle 
and three-quarters of an inch wide by one- 
quarter inch thick at the ends. The bow 
can be made round on the inside or face toward the 
archer, and flat on the outside or face away from the 
archer, or the two faces may be made round. Cut a 
notch in the bow two inches from each end, as shown 
in the illustration, from which to attach 



pRONT Side 

Fig. 241. — A 
Boy's Bow. 




Fig. 242. 



TOY GUNS, TARGETS, AND BOWS AND ARROWS 237 

The Bow-string. — A cord with as little elasticity as 
possible should be used for this. If you care to spend 
the money for it, a good cotton string can be purchased 
from a dealer in archery goods for twenty-five cents. 
With a home-made bow-string, a loop should be made 
in one end and bound 
with thread, as shown in 
Fig. 242. Slip the loop 
over the upper notch, bend 
the bow until the centre 

of the string is about five Bow-string Ends. Fig. 243. 

inches away from the handle, and attach the loose end 
to the lower notch by means of a slip-knot similar to 
that shown in Fig. 243. The bow should be sand- 
papered until smooth, and thoroughly oiled with linseed- 
oil. A piece of velvet about three inches wide should 
be glued about the centre for a handle. 

For a five-foot bow, cut 

The Arrow-shafts twenty-four inches long and one- 
quarter inch thick. Whittle them out of straight-grained 
strips of wood, round them nicely, and cut a notch in 
the ends large enough to fit over the bow-strings. 

It is not supposed that boys would care 

To Prepare Arrow-heads of stone or bone as the Indians 
did, for there are other schemes that are simpler to carry 
out. If the wood is reasonably hard, the heads can be 
cut on the ends of the shaft, as shown in Fig. 244. For 
target practice, a wire nail driven into the end of the 



238 



OUTDOOR PASTIMES 



shaft, as shown in Fig. 245, with the head of the nail 
filed off and pointed, has proven very good, and a thick 
piece of zinc or lead, cut the shape of A (Fig. 246) and 
set into a slot cut in the end of the shaft, with cord 
bound around the shaft to hold the metal in place, 

iwwmmMM... ^^^^ ^^* 0^^ ^^ -^^^ of Zhaft- 



flMWmmmmm''^' 



Fig. 244. 

mre Nat I With ■ Head Filed of 



Fig. 



245. 



Wood- 



Cord 




Fig. 246. 
Figs. 244-246. 



^haft. 



Schemes for Arrow-heads. 



makes another excellent head. The metal points should 
be used only for target practice, and then with proper 
care, to prevent injury to yourself or companions. 

Feathering is the next operation. Turkey or goose 
feathers are generally used, but the former is considered 
the better of the two. Strip off the broader side of the 
vane of three feathers, and glue them to the shaft one 
and one-quarter inches from the notch, spacing them equi- 
distant from one another. One feather should be placed 
at right angles to the notch. This is known as the 
cock-feather, and should always point away from the 
bow when the arrow is shot. 



TOY GUNS, TARGETS, AND BOWS AND ARROWS 239 




Fig. 247. — A Quiver. 



A Quiver of some sort should be provided, large enough 
to carry a dozen or more arrows, and this should be 
three inches shorter than the arrows, so that their ends 
will project above the top. It may 
be made out of any thick cloth, as 
shown in Fig. 247. A circular 
piece of cardboard is placed in 
the bottom to which the cloth is 
sewed, and a piece of heavy wire, 
bent into a circle, fits in the top 
to keep the bag open. The quiver 
should hang on your right side, 
being suspended by means of a cloth strap long enough 
to pass over the left shoulder. 

To Shoot with the bow, take the position shown in 
Fig. 248, with both feet flat upon the ground, and the 
heels in line with the target. Hold the handle of the 
bow in the left hand and place an arrow on the left side 
of the bow, slipping the bow-string into the notch and 
letting the head of the arrow rest upon your left hand. 
Catch the bow-string with the first three fingers of your 
right hand, so that the end of the arrow comes between 
the first and second fingers, and draw the string until 
the head of the arrow rests upon the left hand ; then 
aim quickly and let go of the arrow. By always taking 
the same hold upon your bow and. arrow, you will soon 
be able to know just where the arrow is going to 
strike. 



240 



OUTDOOR PASTIMES 



The boy who has had the hobby of collecting Indian 
arrow-heads has no doubt often wondered how they 
were made, and also how the bows and arrows were 
prepared. The ways In which all uncivilized people do 
things Is Interesting, and especially when It Is remem- 
bered that they had but raw materials with which to 

work and only such tools as 
they could make out of stone. 
The Indian's Bow was made 
of different woods, and, though 
It varied In shape and size, 
was generally about forty 
Inches In length, so as to 
be conveniently carried and 
handled on horseback. The 
bow-string consisted generally 
of a deer sinew or a strand 
of deer-skin rolled or twisted, 
and this was strung very 
tightly from a notch cut on 
one end of the bow to a 
notch on the opposite end. 
Now, while an Indian gener- 
ally made the greater part of his weapons, there was 
always a warrior In the tribe who was skilled In the 
art of arrow-making, and, as the preparation required 
far more care than the bow, he was Intrusted with this 
work. The arrow-shaft was made of various woods, 



I 




Fig. 248. 



— Correct Position for 
Shooting:. 



TOY GUNS, TARGETS, AND BOWS AND ARROWS 241 

reeds being often used, as they were straight and 
required but Httle cutting. Their lengths depended 
largely upon that of the bows. 

For the feathering of the shafts, wild turkey feathers 
were considered best and used when they could be had, 
and these were attached to the shaft with deer sinews. 

A great variety of materials were used for arrow- 
heads, among which flint, obsidian, horn of deer, claws 
of eagles, and the spurs of wild turkey-cocks may be 




Fig. 249. — Some Specimens of Indian Arrow-heads. 

mentioned. Many of these are being picked up annu- 
ally in the mountains and on the plains, which were once 
the battle-fields and hunting-grounds of the redmen, and 
in excavating for building purposes they are frequently 
found. A few specimens of stone heads showing a 
variety of the shapes and sizes used will be found in 
Fig. 249. The preparation of these heads was usually 
left to the old men who were unfit for any other 
work. 



242 OUTDOOR PASTIMES 

In making the flint head, the Indian made a loop in 
a piece of buckskin which had been thoroughly wet in 
cold water, and then taking a piece of flint, heated it, 
and with the strip of buckskin chipped off what was not 
wanted until the head was of the correct shape and size. 
As hornstone is more brittle than quartz, the heads 
made from that material were broken and shaped by 
striking them against the latter. The stone heads were 
attached to the shaft by means of sinews, generally 
from deer. For hunting small birds, the Indians often 
made wooden arrow-heads, hardening the wood by fire 
after shaping it. 




CHAPTER XVIII 

AN OUTDOOR GYMNASIUM 




With a little work, and a small outlay of money 
chiefly for two-by-fours, and such boards as are specified 
in this chapter, a boy, or club of boys, can construct and 
set up all the necessary apparatus for an outdoor gymna- 
sium. It is true a great many city back-yards are much 
too small to accommodate all of the apparatus ; but there 
is generally a vacant lot in the neighborhood which you 
can obtain permission to use. Those of you boys who 
are fortunate enough to spend the summer months in 
the country have splendid opportunities for making 
I a complete gym and should not miss the chance to fit 
one up. 

A Horizontal Bar. — A well-made horizontal bar requires 
a firm standard which will not sway when swung upon. 
This is best attained by fastening at least one upright to 
the side of the barn, the fence, or some other stationary 
object. It is also very important to secure a strong bar 
free from knots and cracks. Curtain-poles are frequently 
used by boys, but at great risk, as there may be a dan- 
gerous knot lurking beneath the highly polished surface 

243 



244 



OUTDOOR PASTIMES 




1^" Diameter. rZ" Square 



that will break at a critical moment and cause them 

serious injuries. 

A four-foot hickory or ash bar can be bought from a 

dealer in sporting goods for about a dollar and a half, but 

it will cost much 
less to have a bar 
turned to the right 
shape and size at a 
planing mill. The 
diameter of the pole 
should be an inch 
and one-half, and the 
ends should be' two 
inches square (see 
Fig. 250). 

For the uprights 
procure two two-by- 
sixes nine feet long. 
Mark off a square 
equal in size to the 
end of the bar, six 
inches from one end 
of each, and cut out 
the wood with an 
aueer. With a chisel 



riG.250 



Bar 




Fig. 251. — The Horizontal Bar. 



trim the holes square and large enough for the bar 
to slip through. 

Sink the lower ends of the uprights twelve inches 



AN OUTDOOR GYMNASIUM 245 

into the ground, A against the stationary object, what- 
ever it may be, and B directly in front, at a distance 
equal to the length of the bar. Spike A to the abutting 
surface, and brace the base of B with two two-by-fours 
to make it solid (see Fig. 251). The tops of the braces 
should be mitred against B, and the bottoms spiked to 
stakes driven into the ground, as shown at C. To make 
it possible to adjust the bar to different heights, holes 
may be cut in the uprights every foot or so, in which 
case be careful to locate the holes exactly opposite one 
another. 

It is well to have an old mattress beneath the horizon- 
tal bar as a guard against injury in case of a fall. This 
also makes a splendid 

Tumbling Mat for practising rolls, hand-springs, and 
wrestling. If a mattress cannot be obtained, a few 
potato sacks stuffed with shavings or excelsior will 
answer the purpose. 

The most satisfactory scheme for making a pair of 

Parallel Bars is shown in Fig. 252. To acquire the 
necessary firmness without putting in bracing that would 
interfere with the performer, the base of the apparatus 
should be set underground, as indicated by the dotted 
lines in the illustration. 

In height the parallel bars should be about four feet 
six inches, in length seven feet six inches, and in width 
twenty inches between the bars. This makes the up- 
rights A, B, C, and D six feet long, allowing eighteen 



246 



OUTDOOR PASTIMES 



inches to project into the ground. Prepare one end of 
each as shown in Fig. 253, notching it for the bar to fit 
in and cutting off the corner. 







Fig. 252. — The Parallel Bars. 



When this has been done, cut four two-by-fours 
twenty-eight inches long. Then lay the uprights A and 
B on the ground twenty inches apart, and spike two of 



AN OUTDOOR GYMNASIUM 



247 



the two-by-fours to them at G and H (see Fig. 254). 
Uprights C and D should be similarly fastened together 
with the other two-by-fours at / and / (see Fig. 252). 
When these frames have been made, set them upon 
their bases six feet apart, and spike the two-by-fours K 



Fig. 256. — Section 
of Bar. 



/u 



J\ 



zcr 




Fig. 253. — Dress 
Ends of Uprights 
like this. 




Fig. 254. Fig. 255. — Corner Bracing. 

Figs. 253-256. — Details of Parallel Bars. 

and L to the uprights in the places shown in Fig. 252, 
with braces set between them and the pieces H and /, 
at M, N, O, P (see Figs. 252 and 255). 

The bars should be seven feet six inches in length, 
and cut out of Georgia pine two-by-fours. Figures 252 



248 OUTDOOR PASTIMES 

and 256 show how these should be dressed, the tops 
rounded to fit the hands and the ends curved. First 
roughly shape them with the draw-knife, then smooth 
up with the plane, and finally scrape and rub them down 
with sand-paper until perfectly smooth. When the bars 
have been prepared, slip them into the notches cut in the 
uprights, and spike them in place. 

With the constructive work done, it is only necessary 
to bury the base to complete the apparatus. Excavate 
a trench eighteen inches deep, and level off the bottom. 
Then lower the framework and, after determining that 
the bars are level, fill in the earth, packing it well against 
the uprights and braces. Boards E and F should be laid 
across the top of G and /, and spiked in place. 

The Punching-bag Platform, illustrated by Fig. 257, 
should be made thirty inches square and suspended 
from the shed or a wall. 

Nail a thirty-inch piece of two-by-four to the wall, two 
feet above the height at which the platform is to be 
placed, as at A in the drawing, and nail another on a 
level with the top of the platform, as shown at B. 

Fasten the platform boards together with battens, 
using nails long enough to clinch on top of the upper 
face, and nail the two boards C and D to the edges, 
mitring the edges as in the figure. Then lift the 
platform to the desired height, and fasten the ends of 
C and D to the ends of A. Also nail the bottom of 
the platform to the under side of B, 



AN OUTDOOR GYMNASIUM 249 

A swivel such as shown in Fig. 258 can be bought 
for forty or fifty cents, and one of these should be 
screwed to the bottom of the platform, from which to 
suspend the punching-bag. 




Fig. 257. — A Punching-bag Platform. 

A Pair of Jump Standards are made out of two two-by- 
fours about eight feet long. After planing them smooth 
on all sides, measure off two feet from one end of each, 
and mark off the remaining six feet in inches, as shown 
in Fig. 259. 

After squaring these divisions across the poles with 
your try-square, bore holes three-eighths of an inch in 
diameter through the poles at each division. Then, with 
a small brush and black paint, mark off each foot with 
a band extending around the pole, each half foot with a 



'■so 



OUTDOOR PASTIMES 



narrower band, and each inch with a short Hne, as shown 
in the drawings. Letter the foot divisions i, 2, 3, 4, etc. 
When both standards have been finished, bury them in 
the ground to a depth of thirteen inches, eight feet apart. 
Cut two wooden pegs similar to Fig. 261 to fit the holes, 




■Rope 



^Weight 



Fig. 262. 



Fig. 261. 




! i 



Fig. 259. — The Jump Standards completed. 
Figs. 259-262. — Details of Jump Standards. 



and procure a nine-foot pine or hickory pole one inch 
thick for a cross-bar (see Fig. 260). When the bar is 
placed upon the pegs, the distance from its top to the 
ground should correspond with the figure on the up- 



AN OUTDOOR GYMNASIUM 251 

right. If not the same, raise or lower the uprights until 
the error is corrected. 

With a pair of these standards there is no danger of 
injury by tripping over the bar, as the latter will fall off 
with the slightest knock. There is one disadvantage in 
using a stick, however, it being easily broken if jumped 
upon. Because of this, a rope with a weight attached 
to each end, as shown in Fig. 262 is often substituted. 
The ends of the rope are hung over the pegs in such a 
way that it will slip off the pegs when struck. The 
weights should be just heavy enough to prevent the rope 
from sagging in the centre. 

A Vaulting Pole should be made of a strong wood, free 
from knots and other defects. The regulation pole is 
made of selected spruce, its length varying from eight to 
fourteen feet. If you make your own pole, be careful to 
plane off all splinters and irregularities, making it round 
and smooth, and point one end so it will stick into the 
ground and prevent slipping. 

Although seldom used in an outdoor gymnasium, 

A Spring-board is excellent for practising the high and 
broad jumps, and is a piece of apparatus with which 
a great deal of fun may be had. Figure 263 shows a 
scheme for a spring-board that is easy to make. First 
cut three pieces of two-by-four two feet long, lay them 
on the ground parallel to each other eighteen inches 
apart, and construct a platform four feet long by two feet 
wide on top of them. 



252 



OUTDOOR PASTIMES 



Cut another two-by-four two feet long, taper it as 
shown in Fig. 264, making it two inches thick on one edge 
and an inch and a quarter on the other, and nail it to 




Fig. 263. — A Spring-board. 

one end of the platform. Secure a log two feet long (a 
cedar fence post will do very nicely), and fasten it across 
the centre of the platform parallel to the tw^o-by-fours. 
The upper portion of the spring-board 
should be made of elastic boards, pref- 
erably ash. Construct a second platform 
six inches longer than the first, leaving 
about one-half inch between the boards, 
and battening the pieces together at A and B (see Fig. 
263). Nail the battens securely in place, using nails of 
sufficient length to allow clinching on the under face 
of the battens. The clinching will prevent the boards 
from springing apart. 




Fig. 264. 



AN OUTDOOR GYMNASIUM 



253 



This platform should be fastened to the first, with the 
end which has not been battened secured to the two- 
by-four at C. The best method of fastening the ends of 
these boards is with bolts long enough to extend through 
the two platforms and project an inch or more below the 
bottom two-by-four (see illustration). Large washers 
should be placed under the heads of the bolts to prevent 
the latter from cutting through the boards. 

The upper platform should not be nailed to the log, 
but merely held to it by straps passed diagonally around 
the outside boards and log, as shown in the illustration. 

Set the spring-board upon the spot you wish to use 
it, and bank up the earth behind it until a gradual slope 
is made from the ground to the top. 

If any difficulty is experienced in keeping the spring- 
board in place, it may be overcome by driving stakes 
into the ground around the sides of the lower platform. 

After setting up your gymnasium apparatus, oil the 
bars of the horizontal bar and parallel bars with boiled 
linseed-oil, and paint all the rest of the wood to keep it 
in good condition. 

Hurdles should be lightly constructed, so as to be 
easily knocked over should a hurdler trip upon them. 
They are made similar to carpenter horses, directions 
for the making of which are given in Chapter I. Their 
height will depend upon the skill of the hurdler. 

If the field is large enough, 

A Running Track can be made around it, by levelling 



254 



OUTDOOR PASTIMES 



off the ground, removing all stones and irregularities in 
its path, and banking up the corners to enable the run- 
ner to turn the curves readily. 

For Short Sprints the most common method of start- 
ing is upon all fours, as illustrated in Fig. 265. Make a 




Fig. 265. 

depression in the ground for the toe of the rear foot 
to press against in starting off. 

For Broad Jumping, a block of wood two feet long 
should be sunk into the ground, as a mark from which 
to leap. 

It is a good plan to organize 

An Athletic Club among the boys of the neighborhood 
with which to raise money necessary to buy the material 
for apparatus, and 

Athletic Meets may be held among the members and 
with other clubs. 





CHAPTER XIX 

A BACK-YARD CIRCUS 




Shortly after the founding of Rome, a large building 
was built within which to hold commemorations of 
Roman victories and anniversaries, with chariot races, 
bull-fights, gladiatorial contests, and athletic games ; and 
from this building, which was called the " circus," this 
class of entertainment derived its name. 

To keep up with the times, the circus has had to profit 
by every scientific discovery, adding continuously to its 
line of attractions, until now it is necessary for a show 
to produce a new, sensational, and hair-raising feat 
each season in order to keep in the favor of the public 
and compete with others in the field. The tight-rope 
walkers, bare-back riders, and trapeze performers were 
not Ions: asfo the main attractions of a circus, but these 
do not seem nearly as remarkable now when compared 
with such daring feats as looping-the-loop or looping- 
the-gap on a bicycle, riding down an incline on a single 
wheel, or diving from the peak of the tent into a small 
tank not more than six feet square, to be seen at the 
present day. 

255 



256 OUTDOOR PASTIMES 

When a circus came to town, it seemed but natural 
for the boys of our neighborhood to club together and 
arrange a performance on a small scale, but as nearly 
Hke that of the professionals as possible. A back-yard 
was transformed into training quarters, and here we 
worked hard for several days before the show, imitating 
as best we could the stunts of the circus performers. 
Because one fellow could walk on his hands, and turn 
hand-springs, besides being the owner of a pair of tights, 
he naturally became the chief attraction ; another had a 
pair of riding boots, so he was chosen ring master ; a third 
made a bargain with his sister to cut him out a cheese- 
cloth costume, and was chosen to take the part of a clown, 
— and in this way each boy helped along the performance 
by contributing his best efforts. 

The most successful shows were those in which a 
week or more was spent in rehearsing the performance 
and getting things in shape. Tickets and programmes 
were neatly printed by one of the members who owned 
a press, and the former were distributed among the boys 
and their friends to sell. 

The first thing to do in preparing a yard for a circus, 
is to 

Mark out a Ring in the centre, with a diameter as large 
as the yard will permit. This circle may be drawn on 
the same principle as that shown in Fig. 201, Chap- 
ter XV, using a rope at either end of which a stake 
has been attached. After describino^ the circle, secure 



A BACK-YARD CIRCUS 257 

several six-inch boards sufficiently limber to enable you 
to bend them around the circle, and fasten them in place 
by means of stakes driven into the ground outside of the 
boards. The enclosed space should then be filled in with 
several inches of shavings, which you can procure from 
a carpenter if you have not enough in your own 
workshop. 

Good Circus Seats can be made out of boxes eighteen 
or twenty inches high, with planks laid across their tops. 

To give the back-yard a real circus appearance, we 
always thought it necessary not only to have a ring but 
also a tent over it and the grandstand, so we gathered 
together all the old awnings, tents, and carriage covers 
we could scrape up, and fastening these together with 
pins or heavy thread made 

A Large Tent. — A ten-foot pole was sunk into the 
ground in the centre of the ring, and ropes were run 
from the top of this to the fence, after which the tent 
was fastened to the ropes and propped with poles wher- 
ever any sagging occurred. 

Bright colored cheese-cloth was used 

In decorating the Tent, and for evening performances 
Japanese lanterns were hung about the yard. 

A Ticket Office should be built at the entrance to 
the yard. This can be made out of two boxes, one set 
on top of the other, as shown in Fig. 266. Cut an 
opening fifteen inches square in the front for a win- 
dow, round the top, and make a guard of wooden strips 



258 



OUTDOOR PASTIMES 



to fit it. Cut a slot in the counter, fastening a box be- 
neath it in which to drop tickets, and for a cash drawer 




Fig. 266. — Ticket Office and Turnstile. 

fasten strips to the under side of the counter, as shown 
in Fig. 266, so that a cigar-box will slide upon them. 



A BACK-YARD CIRCUS • 259 

To the top of the ticket office fasten a board cut the 
shape shown in the illustration, and print the word 
" Tickets " upon it. These letters may be illuminated 
for an evening performance by boring holes through 
them and placing candles behind (see Fig. 266). 

A Turnstile should be made in front of the ticket 
office, so that all are obliged to pay their admission 
fee and pass through the turnstile before entering the 
tent (see Fig. 266; also illustration opposite page 268). 
The stile is made wath two sticks about forty inches 
long fastened together at their centres, as shown in Fig. 
267. This joint, known as 

Halving, consists in cutting away one-half the thickness 
and the width of each piece so that the remaining 
portions fit together fiush. After nailing the pieces 
together, bore a quarter-inch hole through the centre, 
and screw the crosspiece at this point to the top of a 
piece of two-by-four driven into the ground in front of 
the ticket office. The crosspiece should now revolve 
with the screw as an axis. 

The turnstile should, of course, have a lock, and an 
arrangement similar to that shown in Fig. 266 answers 
the purpose. Cut a slot in the front of the lower box 
on a level with the top of the stile for the arms to run 
through (see illustration), and then prepare four blocks, 
such as A, B, C, and D in Fig. 268. Screw one end of 
B and C to the ends of A and fasten block D between 
the other ends of B and C after which nail block A to 



26o 



OUTDOOR PASTIMES 



the under side of the counter in the position shown in 
Fig. 266. Prepare a lever such as is shown in Fig. 269, 
cut a mortise in the top of the counter for it to fit in 
(see Fig. 266), and pivot it to the side of the upper box. 
Place a screw-eye in the end of the lever and another in 
D, and connect the two with a piece of cord. Figure 
266 shows an arm of the turnstile held by the lock, 

which is released by push- 



riailBlockAfoUDder 
■Side of -Counter 



r^ 



^ 



\ 



Fig. 268. — Lock. Fig. 269. — Lever. 



ing back the lever. A 
railing should be built in 
front of the turnstile to 
block the passage on that 
side. 

The Side Show should 
be placed in one corner 
of the yard. The cages 
can be made out of boxes 
with either slats or wire- 



mesh fastened over the front, and the top or side hinged 
in place for a door. The animal performers of the 
circus should occupy these cages before the show com- 
mences, and to make the menagerie as large as possible, 
a few cages may be filled with pets borrowed for the occa- 
sion. Several closed boxes should be placed alongside of 
the cages, and lettered " Lion," " Tiger," or the names of 
some such ferocious animals as these, and the public 
should be informed that for their safety the management 
thought it best not to place these specimens on exhibition. 



A BACK-YARD CIRCUS 



261 



Animated Animals generally have a place in every cir- 
cus, and help out the clowns in their end of the perform- 
ance. The animals are not difficult for handy boys to 
make, so several should be manufactured for your show. 
If you can get your mother or sister to do the necessary 
sewing, it would be well to secure her help. 

The Elephant is one of the oldest forms of animated 
animals, and is at the same time one of the most popular. 




Figs. 270-271. — The Elephant. 

Four or five yards of gray cambric should be purchased 
for its covering. 

The cloth should be cut out like the pattern shown 
in Fig. 270, the correct measurements being secured 
from two boys who have taken the position shown in 
Fig. 271. Fold the cloth along the centre and then sew 
the dotted lines AA and BB together. Paper cornu- 



262 OUTDOOR PASTIMES 

copiae form the tusks, and the ears are made of gray 
cambric cut the shape shown in Fig. 271, and lined with 
heavy wrapping-paper to make them stiff. 

Two boys are required for the elephant. These must 
bend forward, as shown in Fig. 271. The rear boy 
places one hand upon the front boy's back and wags the 
tail with the other, while the front boy runs one hand 
through the elephant's trunk and keeps it in motion. 
Fasten potato sacks on to your legs to make them as 
large as possible. 

The Giraffe is one of the rarest of animals, and very 
few are to be found in captivity. In fact, a large circus 
claims there is only one specimen in this country, outside 
of a herd in their possession. So if you make a giraffe, 
which is not difficult to do, you will have a feature in 
your show that none but the very largest combines can 
afford. The animal's head should be drawn the shape 
of Fig. 272 on a board, and then cut out with the aid of 
a saw and draw-knife. The jaw, ears, and horns should 
be cut out separately, the shape of Figs. 273, 274, and 
275. Bore two holes in the head at A, slanting them 
toward one another, and fit in them the pegs cut for 
the horns. The jaw should be pivoted with a small nail 
at B on one side of the head, and an ear should be like- 
wise fastened at C on each side of the head. When 
these portions of the giraffe's anatomy have been put in 
place, stretch a rubber band from a tack driven in the 
top of the jaw to another tack driven into the neck (see 



A BACK-YARD CIRCUS 



263 



Fig. 272), and attach another rubber band similarly to 
each of the ears. These rubber bands will act as springs, 
causing the ears to wag and the jaw to open and close 
when the giraffe moves his head. 




Fig. 273. ^ 

Fig. 276. 
Figs. 272-276. — Details of Giraife. 



Paint the head, making the features as nearly like 
those of a giraffe as possible, and, when the paint is dry, 
mount the head on the end of a six-foot pole. 



264 



OUTDOOR PASTIMES 




The covering for the body is made out of a large piece 
of tan cloth with brown spots marked upon it, as shown 

in Fig. 276. It is not necessary 
to give a pattern for this, as the 
illustration clearly shows how it 
should fit over the two boys who 
form the body, and hang from 
the headpiece. The neck should 

Fig. 277. — The Giraffe's Tail, j^^ stuffed OUt with CXCclsior. 

A short and a long stick should be nailed together, as 

shown in Fig. 277, and cloth should be sewed to the end 

of the short stick 

for the animal's tail. 

Stuff the tail with 

excelsior and fasten 

unravelled rope to 

the end, as shown in 

the drawings. The 

long stick should be 

held by the boy who 

forms the rear of the 

animal, so that by 

means of it he can 

manipulate the tail 

(see Fig. 276). As 

shown by the dotted lines in Fig. 276, the boy in the 

front portion of the animal holds the end of the pole 

supporting the animal's head. 




Fig. 278. — The Wild Man and the Wild Horse. 



A BACK-YARD CIRCUS 



265 



An animated animal very often brought into a cir- 
cus ring is the two-legged 

Wild Horse, owned by the Wild Man of Borneo. This 
breed of horse is shown in Fig. 278. A framework is 




Fig. 282 



P^iG. 279. — Framework ofWild Horse. 

necessary for the body, and this is best made as shown 

in Fig. 279. Cut two four-foot strips for the s"ide-pieces, 

fasten them two feet apart, 

with a barrel-hoop at either 

end and arch barrel-hoops 

over the back, as shown in 

the drawing. The head 

(Fig. 280) is made in the 

same manner as that of 

the giraffe, the jaws and 

the ears (Figs. 281 and 282) being cut out separately and 

pivoted in place similarly to those of the giraffe. Paint 




Fig. 281. 




Fig. 280. 



266 



OUTDOOR PASTIMES 



the face, marking the eyes and nostrils, and make a mane 
and tail of unravelled rope. Having finished the head, 
mount it upon a short stick and fasten this to a cross- 
piece set in the framework, as shown in Fig. 279, bracing 
it with an upright fastened to another crosspiece. In 

fastening the various 
pieces of the frame- 
work together, it is 
well not only to use 
long enough nails to 
clinch, but also to 
bind each joint with 
wire or cord to make 
it stiff. 

Purchase brown or 
black cambric for 
covering the frame- 
work. Tack it to 
the wooden strips, 
leaving an opening 
in the top for the 
rider to stand in, and 
allow it to hang to the ground as shown in the illustra- 
tion, so as to conceal the feet of the rider. 

The Wild Man should wear an old slouch hat and a 
hunting jacket, and should have a pair of false legs 
fastened to him, so that while his own are inside the 
framework, as shown by the dotted lines in Fig. 278, 




A BACK-YARD CIRCUS 



267 



they appear to be astride. To make the false legs, cut 
off the legs of an old pair of long trousers, stuff them 
with excelsior, and fasten a pair of shoes to the ends. 
These legs should be fastened to the hips of the rider. 
The framework should be held to the rider by means of 
ropes tied to the side strips, as shown in Fig. 279. 
These should be long enough to cross the boy's 
shoulders in the same way as a pair of suspenders. 

A Monkey's Make-up is shown in Fig. 283. The 
boy who is most apt at making a monkey of himself 
should be selected to take the part of 
this animal. In the first place he re- 
quires a red suit, which may be made 
quickly by sewing red cloth over an old 
coat and a pair of trousers. Cover the 
legs with a pair of tan stockings, and 
slip the feet into a pair of large gloves. 
The face and hands should be colored, 
and for this purpose buy some brown 
grease paint. In rubbing the paint over 
the face, leave a circle of white around the eyes and 
mouth, and make a brown mark each side of the 
mouth to give it a broadened effect. A tight-fitting 
cap should be made of cloth as nearly the shade 
of the brown paint as possible, to hide the hair. 
Figure 284 shows the monkey's hat, consisting of a 
tomato-can covered with red cloth, w^hich is fastened 
around the monkey's chin by means of an elastic cord. 




Fig. 



284. — Jocko's 
Hat. 



268 



OUTDOOR PASTIMES 



A piece of rope can be fastened beneath the coat for 
a tail. 

The Ring Master should wear a high silk hat, a stand- 
up collar, and a pair of boots, besides being supplied 
with a long whip. 

The Clown's Suit is best made out of red and yellow 
cheese-cloth, this material being about as cheap as can 

be bought for the purpose. 
The suit consists of a pair of 
baggy trousers or bloomers, with 
elastic around the waist and 
ankles, a loose coat with large 
buttons, a collar, a skullcap, 
and a hat. Make the buttons 
out of red cheese-cloth and stuff 
them with cotton. The coat 
may be made of red and the 
trousers of yellow cheese-cloth, 
or both may be made of yellow 
with red polka dots sewed on 
to them, as shown in the illus- 
tration of his costume (Fig. 285). 
The collar is made of white 
cloth, lined with paper to make 
it stiff, and should be pleated around the neck to form 
a ruffle. A skull cap should be made out of white cloth 
to hide the hair. Make a peaked hat of stiff paper, 
and cover, it with red cheese-cloth. 




Fig. 285. — The Clown's 
Make-up. 



A BACK-YARD CIRCUS 269 

When making up for a performance, the clown should 
powder his face, neck, and hands with magnesia, and 
draw expression marks upon his face with burnt cork, as 
shown in Fig. 285. 

The Attendants for the elephant and giraffe should 
wear old bath robes or gowns, and have turbans made by 
twisting a piece of red cheese-cloth about the head. 

By visiting any circus and closely watching how 
things are managed, it ought to be a simple matter to 
get enough 

Ideas for a Performance that can be carried out with the 
animals and performers described in this chapter. The 
clown should, of course, have his usual supply of jokes, 
which he can get out of the comic papers, and should do 
his best to annoy the other performers. He should 
make himself 

A Slapper, consisting of two sticks with a block slipped 
between at one end. This will produce a great deal of 
laughter among the audience, for when the slapper is 
struck against a performer the ends of the sticks strike 
together, making a loud, cracking noise, and one would 
hardly believe that a stinging blow had not been dealt. 
The clown attempts the tricks of the other performers, 
but always fails or gets them very badly mixed. 

A startling feat to be announced upon the pro- 
gramme will be 

Looping the Hoop on a Giraffe. — This stunt is per- 
formed by the elephant, who is given a number of barrel- 



270 



OUTDOOR PASTIMES 



hoops, which he tosses by means of his trunk over the 
giraffe's outstretched neck. The elephant and giraffe 
should always be entered in a race, which will prove 
exciting, inasmuch as your specimens will be evenly 
matched. 

The monkey may do almost anything and be amusing. 
Swinging upon a turning-pole, teasing the animals, box- 
ing with the clown, and climbing a rope, are all his 
specialties. Then he should have 

A Chariot within which to ride around the ring. This 
can be made out of a soap-box, as shown in Fig. 286. 




Fig. 286. — Jocko's Chariot. 



Cut down the sides, as in the illustration, attach two 
shafts to the bottom, and mount it upon a couple of 
small w^agon wheels. When this has been done 
paint the wood a bright red, and cut stars of different 
sizes out of gilt paper and glue them all over the 
outside. 

The ring master acts as manager of the performance, 



A BACK-YARD CIRCUS 



271 



and should use his whip unsparingly upon the animals, 
to force them into obedience. 

If a boy can turn upon a turning-pole, an apparatus 
such as is described in Chapter XVIII may be set up 
outside of the ring. 

Before performances, the entire circus — animals, 
acrobats, and showmen — should parade about the 
neighborhood in circus attire. We always made the 

Parades a feature of our circuses, and found them not 
only great sport, but the best kind of advertising. The 
animal cages should be placed upon wagons decorated 
with flags. Head the procession with a couple of 
drummers, and have two boys march in the rear carry- 
ing signs advertising the show. 

The Advertising Signs may be painted with bluing 
upon large pieces of manila wrapping-paper, and should 
be tacked on wooden stretchers mounted on poles. 





CHAPTER XX 

SUGGESTIONS FOR FOURTH 
OF JULY 




As most boys probably know, the first Fourth of July 
celebration took place in 1775, following the signing of 
the Declaration of Independence in Independence Hall, 
Philadelphia. When the old bell rang forth the result 
of the meeting of the Continental Congress, citizens 
gathered in the streets and displayed their great joy 
by shouting, beating drums, and firing muskets. The 
news spread very rapidly, and great rejoicing reigned 
everywhere. It soon became a custom to celebrate 
annually this famous event, and it should be every 
boy's privilege to have a rollicking good time upon this 
day, making as much noise as he pleases. 

When the average boy has bought a few sky-rockets, 
Roman-candles, and cannon-crackers, for the Fourth, 
he generally finds, to his sorrow, that he has run ' U of 
pocket money. It is then that he is very apt to want to 
try his hand at making pyrotechnics. There are many 
publications which describe how amateurs may manu- 
facture Roman-candles, sky-rockets, nigger-chasers, and 
such pieces, but it is hoped that no boy will venture to 

272 



SUGGESTIONS FOR FOURTH OF JULY 273 

carry out any such experiments, for, with the greatest 
of care, unforeseen accidents will occur which may result 
disastrously to him. At the same time, there is no 
economy in it, for the apparatus and materials will gen- 
erally cost him more than to buy the fireworks ready 
made. This is also true of colored lights, for which 
there are many simple formulae, but none of which can 
be made up as cheaply as the powders can be bought 
already prepared. 

There are, however, many things a boy can make for 
the Fourth that are perfectly harmless, such as fire- 
cracker cannons and home-made set-pieces, besides dif- 
ferent schemes for firing crackers and fireworks that he 
can carry out. The suggestions offered on the following 
pages will be found interesting, and they will probably 
suggest other ideas to the inventive boy. 

The store toy cannon and cap-pistol are exceedingly 
dangerous for boys to use, and were all cities to pass 
laws forbidding their sale, as in the case of a great many 
of the larger cities, thousands of young lives would be 
saved from the terrible accidents resulting annually from 
celebrating with these toys. 

In . r. 287 is shown 

A Fire-cracker Cannon with which a boy can have a 
great deal of fun and at the same time with no danger 
of injury. Cut the two gun-stocks similar in shape to 
Fig. 288, and the two wheels four inches in diameter 
(Fig. 289) , after which bore holes in the gun-stocks at 



2 74 



OUTDOOR PASTIMES 



A, and in the centres of the wheels, through which to 
run the axle. Procure a baking-powder can and make 
a couple of holes in the sides for the axle to run through 
(Fig. 290), and one in the bottom of the can the size of a 
fire-cracker fuse. Cut a conical piece of wood about two 




Fig. 287. 

Figs. 287-291 



A Fire-cracker Cannon. 



inches long and nail it to the outside of the can cover as 
shown in Fig. 291. 

When the various pieces have been thus prepared, 
place them together as shown in Fig. 287, and slip a 
piece of heavy wire through the holes made in them, 
and bend over the ends of the wire to hold the wheels 
in place. 

To fire the Cannon, place a cracker in the can with the 
fuse projecting through the hole in the bottom, and fit 



SUGGESTIONS FOR FOURTH OF JULY 



275 



the cover over the can. Then light the fuse. The 
exploding cracker will force off the cover, which is 
the projectile, and hurl it a considerable distance in 
the direction the cannon has been pointed. 

A Toy Mortar may be made similarly, with the excep- 
tion of the carriage or mortar-bed. Figures 292 and 293 
show the details for this, which is different from a regu- 




Y\loodenCone 



Hole for Ay te. 




Leather Hinges-^ 



Fig. 292. 

Figs. 292-293. — A Fire-cracker Mortar. 



Fig. 293. — Section through 
Mortar-bed. 



lar mortar, one end being enclosed for an ammunition 
box. Make a cover for the ammunition box to prevent 
sparks from igniting the packages of crackers, using 
pieces of leather for hinges. As shown in the section 
drawing (Fig. 293), the mortar-bed is mounted upon a 
small board, being held in place by means of a short 
screw, which makes it possible to swing the mortar 
around in any position desired. 

These cannons and mortars will furnish sport not only 



276 



OUTDOOR PASTIMES 



Open 



for the Fourth, but for any other day of the year, as 
they can be used by a crowd of boys in 

Mimic Battles, with paper soldiers. The boys should 
divide into armies, and construct their fortifications 
about twenty feet apart, planting the guns upon the 
works and placing the paper soldiers behind. All paper 
soldiers knocked over are out of the game, and the side 
first completely killing the enemy's garrison is, of course, 
the winner of the day. These battles are always very 
exciting, especially toward the end, when there are but 

a few warriors remain- 
ing. In order that the 
projectiles may fit all 
the cans, it is neces- 
sary to have them 
all of the same size. 

Another Toy Cannon 
that is simple to make 
is shown in Fig. 294. 
For this, buy a short 

Fig. 294. — Another Toy Cannon. pi^^e of glaSS tubing at 

a drug-store and have the druggist seal one end of it. 
Then secure a good-sized cork and cut a hole through 
the side large enough for the tube to run through (see A 
in Fig. 294). Cut out a pair of wooden wheels about 
three inches in diameter, and fasten them to the ends of 
the cork with a pin or small nail. Make the cannon 
shafts four inches long, point one end of each and stick 




SUGGESTIONS FOR FOURTH OF JULY 



277 



them into the cork at B and C The open end of the 
tube should be at D and the sealed end at E. 

To fire the Cannon, slip a match into the open end 



lighted 
ignites 



-cord 



of the tube with the head toward E, and hold a 
match at the closed end. As soon as the heat 
the phosphorus, the match will shoot out of 
the open end of the tube. 

Firing Fireworks from Kites presents a novel 
feature for a Fourth of July celebration, the 
aerial display making a very pretty spectacle, 
and the boy who sets off his firew^orks in this 
manner will have something different from the 
rest of the neighborhood. 

Figure 295 shows the manner in which a 
Roman-candle can be attached to a kite-string. 
A piece of punk about an inch and one-half 
long should be bound to the fuse of the candle, 
and as the fuse is rather short it is necessary 
to cut through the paper bound around it, and 
set the punk into the end of the candle, as 
shown in the drawing. Attach a piece of twine ^^^' ^95- 
two feet long to the other end of the candle, and then, 
after getting your kite up, attach the end of this string 
to the kite-string and light the punk, being very careful 
in doing so not to ignite the fuse of the Roman-candle. 
After attaching the candle and lighting the punk, let out 
the kite-string as rapidly as possible, so that by the time 
the punk has burned down to the fuse end, the Roman- 



of 
Ponk 



278 



OUTDOOR PASTIMES 



candle will be well up in the air. As soon as the 
candle begins to explode, shake the kite-string so 
as to make the balls shoot into the sky in different 
directions. 

A Pack of Fire-crackers with a piece of punk attached 
to the fuses may also be suspended from a kite-string 
and fired in mid-air. 



•Loop ID Kite String 
PinHook^ 





Lantern 
String 



Fig. 296. Fig. 297. 

Schemes for Attaching Lanterns to Kite-strings. 

Other fireworks may be set off similarly, and colored 
lights produce a fine effect. 

Nigger-chasers shot into the air by means of a cross- 
bow, such as is described in Chapter XVII, present 
another novelty. 

Japanese Lanterns hung from kite-strings are also a 
pretty sight, and, while they give somewhat the same 



SUGGESTIONS FOR FOURTH OF JULY 



279 



Fuse 



Wire, 



appearance as fire-balloons, they are lasting and can be 
saved for another year. 

After procuring a number of lanterns of different 
shapes and sizes, fasten candles securely in them so that 
there is no possibility of them igniting the paper. Fig- 
ures 296 and 297 show two ways in which the lanterns 
may be attached one below the other. The first method 
(Fig. 296) consists of pins stuck through the bottoms 
of the lanterns and bent over into hooks, while in the 
second (Fig. 297) a small hole is made in the bottom of 
one lantern and the wire handle of another 
is slipped through this hole and looped over 
a burnt match. 

Before sending up the kite with these 
lanterns, make a number of small loops in 
the kite-string where you wish to hang the 
lanterns, and provide the handle of each 
series of lanterns with a pin-hook, as shown 
in Fig. 297. Then, when everything is in 
readiness, have one of your friends hook the 
lanterns to the loops while you attend to 
letting out the kite-string. Of course the 
smaller the lanterns are the greater number you can 
hitch in place, and if you use a team of kites you will 
find that they will carry a number of strings of lanterns. 

A Shooting-torch, such as is shown in Fig. 298, is a 
scheme that is simple to carry out. It consists of a 
stick about eighteen inches lon^, with fire-crackers bound 




Fig. 298. — a 

Shooting-torch. 



28o 



OUTDOOR PASTIMES 



around it with wire, and the fuses twisted together, as 

shown in the illustration. It is fired in the same way 

as a Roman-candle. 

After firing all of your fireworks, you should have 
A Final Set-piece with which to close the exhibition. 

A good scheme for such a piece is shown in Fig. 299. 

Mark out the letters upon a board, and, with a quarter- 
inch bit, bore holes 
about one half-inch 
apart along the out- 
lines of each letter. 
Then cut enough 




Fig. 299. — A Final Set-piece. 



sticks of punk two 
inches long to fit 
all of the holes, 
and put them to 
soak in kerosene. The oil makes the punk burn much 
brighter than it would in its dry state. When the punk 
is thoroughly soaked, stick the pieces in the holes. A 
candle will be found most convenient for lighting the 
punk. 

Nail the board to a tree or post, and place several 
cannon-crackers in holes bored near the bottom of the 
board. After allowing the punk to burn for a short 
time, light the cannon-crackers and blow up the set- 
piece as a grand finish. 




CHAPTER XXI 

HALLOWEEN 




Halloween, or the eve of All Saints' Day, has been 
observed since the beginning of the Christian era. In 
very early times, ghosts, demons, and spirits were believed 
to rule the universe on this evening, and any one who 
ventured upon the streets after dark was doing so at 
the risk of his life. For companionship, as well as pro- 
tection, it was customary for large numbers of friends to 
spend the evening together ; and these gathered around 
the fire-place, and passed away the time drinking cider, 
cracking nuts, eating apples, and telling ghost stories. 

While the superstitious fears of Halloween have almost 
entirely disappeared, the evening is generally celebrated 
in the same manner as in the past. This is the only 
evening on which a boy can feel free to play pranks out- 
doors without danger of being " pinched," and it is his 
delight to scare passing pedestrians, ring door-bells, and 
carry off the neighbors' gates (after seeing that his own 
is unhinged and safely placed in the barn). Even if he 
is suspected, and the next day made to remove the rub- 
bish barricading the doors, lug back the stone carriage 

281 



282 



OUTDOOR PASTIMES 



step, and climb a tree for the front gate, the punishment 
is nothing compared with the sport the pranks have fur- 
nished him. There is, of course, such a thing as boys 
going too far with their Halloween fun and getting into 
malicious mischief, but the cautious boy is not likely to 
cause any serious trouble by his actions. 

Every boy who has used a bean-blower knows that 
the beans swell when held in the mouth, often to such 




Fig. 300. — A Section through the Bean-blower. 
A Magazine Bean-blower. 



an extent that they will not go through the opening, and 
clog the tube. Figure 300 shows a scheme for a 

Magazine Bean-blower, which does away with this diffi- 
culty, inasmuch as with it the beans are not put in the 
mouth. The drawing shows a section taken through 
the centre of one the writer has before him, which works 
admirably. This bean-blower will cost you just two 



HALLOWEEN 285 

cents, the price of two of the regular nineteen-Inch tin 
tubes sold in the stores. To these add a laro^e ribbon- 
spool, which can be had for the asking at almost any 
dry goods store, some glue, and a sheet of writing paper. 
Place the spool in your bench-vise, and bore a quarter- 
inch hole in the centre of the side of it (see A, Fig. 
300). This hole should be on a slant, and extend only 
into the hollow part of the spool, as shown in the draw- 
ing. When this has been done, take one of the tin 
tubes and cut off two sections of it, one four inches long 
and the other three and one-half inches long. This is 
easily done by filing through the tin on one side with a 
small file, and then bending the tube back and forth 
until it breaks. Place the end of the four-inch tube in 
the hole bored in the spool at A, gluing a strip of paper 
around it to make it fit tightly (see B in Fig. 300). A 
piece of paper smeared with glue should be wrapped 
around the other end of this tube in the form of a fun- 
nel, as shown in Fig. 301. Press the paper around the 
end of the tube, as shown in the section drawing. Fig. 
300, and use plenty of glue upon it to make it stiff. 
Glue a strip of paper around the short tube, and stick it 
in one end of the spool, as shown at C, Fig. 300. The 
little wooden mouthpiece that is furnished with bean- 
blowers nowadays should be slipped over the other end 
of the tube, as shown in the drawing. Now take the 
second bean-blower, and glue it in the other end of the 
spool, as shown at D. The bean-blower is now complete. 



OUTDOOR PASTIMES 



To operate it, hold the spool in one hand, 
and, after dropping a number of beans or peas 
into the magazine, place the palm of the other 
hand over the top of the paper funnel, and 
blow until the tube is emptied. It is necessary 
to close the opening in the top of the maga- 
zine, or the beans will blow out of it instead 
of from the end of tube D. Dried peas 
always work better than beans in a bean- 
blower, as they are round and never clog 
the tube. 

The loud drumming noise of a tick-tack 
rattled upon a window is enough to give any 
one the cold shivers, and if the guests of a 
Halloween party are gathered about the fire- 
place, telling weird ghost stories, this unearthly 
noise is sufficient to give even the bravest 
heart a conviction that the house is haunted 
by supernatural beings. The writer and his 
friends used to make 

A New Style of Tick-tack, such as illustrated 
in Fig. 302, which claims several advantages 
over the ordinary kind. In the first place it 
has a crank arrangement which does away with 
the long string that is everlastingly becoming 
entangled, and only one boy is necessary to 
operate it where two are required with the 
old-style affair. Again, by having the tick- 



HALLOWEEN 



28s 



tack upon the end of a long pole, second-story windows 
can easily be reached with it. For the making of 
this tick-tack, procure two large spools, some heavy 
cord, and a long pole (perhaps you can borrow your 
mother's clothes-pole for the occasion). With a knife 
cut notches in the flanges of one spool, and fasten 
it to one end of the pole, driving a large nail through 
the hole in the centre of the spool into the pole (see 
302). Place the other spool in your bench-vise 



Fig 




Fig. 304. 




Bore Hole for /Sail 



1 



Fig. 303. 



Details of Crank for Tick-tack. 



and saw it in two pieces, as shown in Figs. 303 and 304, 
so that A is one-half the size of B, or one-third of the 
length of the spool. Cut a strip of wood about six 
inches long, bore a hole near one end a little larger than 
a sixteen-penny nail, and nail the strip to the end of 
spool A so that the hole comes exactly over the one in 
the spool (see Fig. 303). Attach spool B to the other 
end of C by means of a nail driven through the hole 
into the strip. The crank is now completed, and 



286 



OUTDOOR PASTIMES 



should be fastened to the lower end of the pole by means 
of a nail driven through the hole in A. It will be seen 
that this tick-tack is a simple piece of apparatus. The 
crank at the lower end of the pole is turned and revolves 
the notched spool at the upper end. To keep the cord 
from slipping on the pole, a little resin should be rubbed 
upon it, and it might be well also to rub 
a little upon the spools. 

A Clock-work Tick-tack, such as is illus- 
trated in Fig. 305, is another good idea, 
and one that can be carried out with a 
few minutes' work. Remove the works 
from an old alarm clock, and fasten them 
with wire or cord to the end of a pole, 
as shown. Attach a cord to the striker, 
and make it long enough to reach to the 
other end of the pole. Make a loop in 
the end of the cord, and drive a nail into 
the pole over which to loop the cord to 
keep the striker in check. This tick-tack 
is worked by placing the end of the pole 
close to the window-glass, with the striker toward the 
glass, and slipping the cord off its nail. The striker is 
controlled entirely by the cord. 

The Goblin-man (Fig. 306) is easily made out of such 
material as you can most generally find about the house. 
The framework for the body of this ghostly creature is 
shown in Fig. 307, and consists of a pole about four feet 




Fig. 305. 

The Clock-work 

Tick-tack. 



HALLOWEEN 



287 



long with the centre of an eighteen-inch crosspiece 
nailed across it. In order to fasten these pieces firmly 
together, they should be halved as shown in Fig. 267, 
Chapter XIX. The 
arms consist of two 
sticks {A and B in Fig. 
307) fastened together 
at right angles with 
small iron braces, and 
screwed in place near 
the ends of the cross- 
piece, as shown in 
the illustration. Holes 
should be bored through 
the arm pieces in order 
that they may work 
freely on the screws. 
Place a small screw-eye 
in each arm at B, and 
attach a short strinor to 
it. A short stick should 

be nailed to the four- Fig. 306. - The Goblin-man. 

foot pole about eighteen inches from the lower end, so 
that the boy who carries the framework can rest it 
upon his shoulder. 

The head of the goblin is a jack-o'-lantern made out 
of a piece of cardboard, bent as shown in Fig. 308, and 
held in this shape by means of broom-wire laced back 




OUTDOOR PASTIMES 



and forth across the top. Cut a hole the shape of an 
ear in each side, and paste a piece of red tissue-paper 
over the opening. For the face, take a piece of white 
paper a Httle larger than the face is going to be, mark 
out eyes, nose, and mouth upon it, and cut the openings 

for them. Paste red tissue- 
paper over the openings 
for the eyes, and mark a 
large black pupil in the 
corner of each (Fig. 309). 
For the mouth, paste a 
piece of white tissue-paper 
over the opening, and 
mark out the teeth in 
black (Fig. 309). A piece 
of red tissue-paper should 
be pasted over the open- 
ing for the nose. After 
finishing the face, paste it 
on to the cardboard head. 
The goblin's countenance 
is lighted up from within, 
by means of a candle fastened in a baking-powder can. 
Cut down one side of the can with a pair of tin-shears or 
a can-opener, and tack it to the framework about six 
inches above the crosspiece, as shown in Fig. 307. This 
can must not be put in place, however, until the head is 
fastened to the framework, which is done by punching 




Fig. 307. — Framework of the Goblin-man. 



HALLOWEEN 289 

a hole in the cardboard large enough to admit the end 
of the pole. Get an old derby for a hat, and, after punch- 
ing a few holes in the top for the heat and smoke of 
the candle to escape, sew it to the cardboard head. 
Cover the back of the head with black cloth in such a 
way that it may be opened to light the candle. To save 
the goblin-man the embarrassment of losing his head. 




Fig. 308. ^^^- 309. 

Figs. 308-309. — The Goblin's Head. 

drive a nail through the crown of the derby-hat into the 
end of the pole. For a neck, button a cuff around the 
pole between the crosspiece and head. 

A white suit of clothes is, of course, the correct style 
for the goblin to wear. This can be found in an old 
nightshirt, lengthened with white cloth, if necessary, to 
make it reach the ground when it is placed upon him. 
The shoulders should be padded out to hide the frame- 
work. 

When the goblin-man is finished, strap the shoulder- 



290 OUTDOOR PASTIMES 

stick of the frame to your shoulder, and fasten the end 
of the pole to your waist with a belt. Your hands are 
then free to manipulate the arms, by means of the cords 
attached to their ends. Before starting out upon the 
street, have some one light the candle in the head. 

As this weird-looking creature passes along the streets, 
with glaring eyes and other features equally brilliant, 
people will have to stop to reassure themselves that they 
are not face to face with some unearthly demon. 

A trick that will furnish amusement for at least a 
portion of the evening is 

The Disappearing Rope, which is not an entirely new 
idea, but one which is always popular. Procure a num- 
ber of rubber bands and tie them together, end to end. 
Then attach one end of these to a front fence, and to 
the other end fasten several yards of string. After doing 
this, cross over the sidewalk with the string, pulling it 
tightly so the rubber bands will stretch, and hang a sign 
with the w^ord " danger " printed upon it in large letters 
over the string where it crosses the sidewalk. 

It is only natural that the person who sees this sign 
will make a grab for it, thinking you are blocking the 
sidewalk to make him walk around it. This is your 
opportunity to act quickly and let go of the string, which 
will snap back to the fence upon the contraction of the 
rubber bands, and disappear from view, leaving your 
much-astonished friend to pass on, knowing that the 
joke is upon him. 





fe^ 


\ 


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^, . , . . . 


III M 




^^ 


CHAPTER XXII 




1 1 .«^ 


// 


// 


A BACK-YARD TOBOGGAN- 


jj|P' 


^ 


—#- 


SLIDE 


zz:^S^^ 


1 1 





It is the misfortune of a great many boys to be 
deprived of one of winter's greatest sports, by living 
in a flat country where there are no hills upon which 
to coast. These boys have little use for sleds aside from 
"hitching," unless they can make an artificial slide. In 
a number of large cities, toboggan-slides on a large scale 
are erected in the parks each year, and thrown open to 
the use of the public. Although this coasting cannot 
equal that to be had on natural hills, it affords a great 
pastime to thousands of boys and girls, and is a luxurious 
treat to many who have never seen hills larger than the 
artificial park variety. 

The construction of a toboggan-slide is not difficult 
for a boy or several boys, and though it must be limited 
in size, a small slide has an advantage in that there is 
not a long walk from the end of the run back to the 
starting-point. 

It is a good idea to locate the toboggan-slide in a 
back-yard or an enclosed lot, so that the outside fellows 
cannot monopolize it ; and it is well to have some firm 

291 




292 



A BACK-YARD TOBOGGAN-SLIDE 



293 



object to which the framework can be fastened, as it 
saves a great deal of bracing, and materially lessens the 
amount of lumber needed. The work should be done in 
the early part of the fall, before the cold weather sets in. 
Figure 310 shows a slide built in the corner of a yard 
against the fence. 

The Length will be determined by the size of the yard. 
If the yard is short, the slide should be proportioned 
accordingly, to allow the sled its full run before reaching 
the end of the lot. 

A Platform should be built in the corner, six feet 
square, and about seven feet above the ground. For 
this, cut four two-by-fours six feet nine inches long, 
fasten one in the angle formed by the two fences, and 
another five feet four inches to the right of it (A and 
B in Fig. 312). The third upright (C) should be nailed 
to the fence five feet eight inches from A, and the fourth 
(D) should be fastened at an equal distance from B. 
Then cut two pieces of two-by-four each six feet long, 
and nail them across the tops of A and C, and B and D, 
respectively, as shown at B and /^ in Fig. 312. The 
uprights should now be braced with horizontal and 
diagonal bracing, as shown in Fig. 312, to give the 
platform the necessary stiffness. 

After deciding upon the length of the slide, lay off the 
distance upon the ground from the bottom of upright B, 
and drive a stake into the ground at the farther end. 
Then attach a cord to the stake and run it along the 



1 

I 

i 

1 

! 




"? 


/ 


/ 


/ 






1 


1 


h 


1 


r 


1 


U 


i 


j 




j 




1 


1 


1 




L 




1 r 




? I~l 




o/ 




/ 




/ 




/ 




/ 




Ij 




1 h 




/^ 




f 






cr: / 




■c 








































< 









294 



A BACK-YARD TOBOGGAN-SLIDE 295 

fence to a nail driven into the top of upright B. This 
cord, shown in Fig. 311, marks the pitch of the shde, and 
will give you a guide-line by which to work. When this 
has been done, cut three pieces of two-by-four about tw^o 
feet long, and spike them to the fence just below the 
guide-line (see G, H, and /, Fig. 311), spacing them 
about six feet apart on centres. When these have been 
fastened in place, take a piece of two-by-four and mark 
off upon it the distance from the ground to the top of 
block /. Then square a line across the two-by-four at 
this point, at an angle corresponding to that at which 
block / is nailed to the fence (see Fig. 313). Saw the 
two-by-four on this line, and then stand it upright in 
front of block /, thirty or thirty-two inches from the 
fence (according to whether eight- or ten-inch boards 
are used upon the slide), and spike a piece of two-by-four 
to the top of it and to the top of block /, as show^n in 
Fig. 312. Cut and set up a similar upright and cross- 
piece at G and at H, after which brace all as shown in 
the illustration (Fig. 312). 

If you are going to buy boards with which to cover 
the platform and slide, get twelve-foot lengths, eight or 
ten inches wide. By using these you will have no waste, 
and but little cutting to do. If, however, you have 
material of other dimensions on hand which you can 
use, the supports of the slide should be so spaced 
that the boards will reach from one to another. The 
boards should run lengthwise upon the slide, and be 



296 OUTDOOR PASTIMES 

nailed to the framework, leaving as small cracks as pos- 
sible between them. 

In order to prevent sleds from running off the slide, 
a guide should be nailed to the edge farthest from the 
fence, from the top to the bottom, and on the opposite 
side where it extends above the fence top (see Fig. 310). 

After nailing the platform boards in place, 

Build a Railing out of boards around three sides of it, 
to prevent any one from slipping off (see Fig. 310). 

A Ladder, made out of two two-by-fours, with two- 
inch strips nailed across them, should be set against the 
front of the platform and spiked in place, as shown in 
the illustration of the completed slide (Fig. 310). This 
will make it easier to reach the platform than by the 
way of the icy slide, and also prevents those coasting 
from colliding with those who are returning. 

Any ingenious boy will know how to make a swift 
slide by turning the hose upon it, and allowing the 
water to run over the surface until every portion is 
well covered. 

A toboggan-sled is out of proportion for a slide of 
this size, and will not be found as satisfactory as a sled 
with runners, as the steepness of the slide will not be 
sufficient to make it go. 

A Home-made Sled, such as that shown in Fig. 314, 
requires but little material, and if carefully made will 
prove stronger than the variety commonly sold in the 
shops. 



A BACK-YARD TOBOGGAN-SLIDE 



297 



Figure 315 shows the pattern for the runners, which 
should be cut out of four-inch boards, seven-eighths of an 
inch thick. Round the top edges, and cut the front 
and rear ends as shown in the drawing. Make a slot 




Fig. 314. — A Home-made Sled. 

in the place indicated for a handle, and bore a hole 
near the front end for the crosspiece to run through. 
The seat consists of a board cut twenty-two inches 
long and nine inches wide. This will not be nailed 
to the runners but to cleats, as shown in Fig. 316. Cut 




Fig. 315. — Pattern for Runners. 

three cleats nine and one-quarter inches long, two 
inches wide, and seven-eighths of an inch thick, and 
fasten these between the runners, five-eighths of an inch 
from their tops, placing one near the end of the seat, 
one at the centre, and one at the front. Four two- 
inch iron braces should be procured, and two of these 



OUTDOOR PASTIMES 



screwed to the under side of the front and rear cleats, 
and to the sides of the runners, as shown in Fig. 316. 
The seat can then be nailed in place, and a broom- 
handle fastened in the hole bored near the ends of 
the runners. 

The Best Kind of Iron Runners for a home-made sled are 
those that a boy can put on without the aid of a black- 
smith, and such a pair of runners is shown in the draw- 
ing of this sled. 
They consist of 
what are known as 
half-oval iron strips, 
and can be had 
usually at a hard- 
ware store or black- 






7s" Cleats. 



m 



2x 2" /RON Braces ■ 
Oil' 



"^/a.' 'Half-Oval Iron Strips 

Fig. 316. — A Section through the Sled. 



smith shop. A pair forty inches long and three-quarters 
of an inch wide, with five holes for countersunk screws 
drilled in each, can be bought for fifty cents. When 
they have been procured, screw them to the bottom of 
the runners, using one inch or one and one-quarter inch 
screws for the purpose. 

Although these runners are plenty heavy enough for 
light coasting, they would probably prove weak for coast- 
ing upon hills of any great size. To withstand the strain 
brought to bear upon the runners when hill coasting, 
boys generally find it necessary to make them out of two- 
inch stuff. This, however, makes the sled heavy and 
clumsy, and can be done away with by following a 



A BACK-YARD TOBOGGAN-SLIDE 299 

scheme which a friend of the writer's invented and found 
very satisfactory. It consisted of 

Reenforcing the Runners with steel bars driven into 
holes bored vertically in them. The holes were bored 
while the runners were held in a vise, and the steel bars 
were a little larger than the holes, so that they would 
fit them tightly. This scheme allows the use of seven- 
eighths inch stuff for the runners, and sixty-penny wire 
nails can be filed off to the proper length and substituted 
for steel bars if the latter cannot be obtained. 

When the sled has been completed, it should be given 
a good coat of paint. 





PARTm 

Pastimes 




CHAPTER XXIII 

A MINIATURE THEATRE 




Probably nothing can be found which will make a 
more interesting entertainment for a winter evening, 
than a miniature theatre patterned as nearly as possible 
after a large playhouse. The construction of the stage, 
and preparation of miniature scenery, properties, and 
mechanical effects, furnish good work for disagreeable 
weather when it becomes necessary to remain indoors, 
and there is plenty of it, and of great enough variety, to 
occupy the attention of a number of boys. 

Very little material is necessary, outside of what gen- 
erally can be found in the attic, cellar, and woodshed, so 
that the expense incurred by making the theatre amounts 
to almost nothing. A gilt picture-frame makes 

An Excellent Proscenium for the front of the stage, and, 
as it will not be marred in the least, you can probably 
borrow one for the occasion. 

On the opposite page is shown a miniature theatre 
completed, and in Fig. 317 will be seen the proper con- 
struction of 

The Stage Framework, which is made of narrow boards 

303 




Fig. 317. — The Stage Framework. 
304 



A MINIATURE THEATRE 305 

and built upon two horses the width of the picture- 
frame. Make the horses as shown in Fig. 317, one two 
feet six inches high and the other two feet nine inches 
high, using two-by-fours for the tops and narrow boards 
for the legs and braces. After constructing the horses, 
cut four boards seven feet long and nail two to the ends 
of each (A and B, Fig. 317), after which cut two pieces 
to reach across the tops and nail them in place as shown 
at C. Then set the horses five feet apart, with the 
lower one in front, and screw three boards to the tops 
as shown at D, E, and F, and three narrow strips to the 
top of the framework as shown at G, H, and /. Strips 
G, //, and /form what is known as 

The Gridiron, or supports from which the scenery drops 
are suspended, and should have a row of tacks driven 
into each edge, as shown in Fig. 3 1 7, upon which to hang 
the drops. By fastening the framework together with 
screws, it may be taken apart after a performance and 
packed away for another time. 

The Stage Floor rests upon boards D, E, and F, and is 
made of laths laid close together, parallel to the front of 
the stage. The laths should not be nailed in place, as it 
is necessary to have the stage floor movable. 

When the work has proceeded thus far, set the picture- 
frame between the uprights of the front frame so that 
the opening comes on a level with the stage floor, and 
fasten it to A and B with nails driven through screw- 
eyes placed in the back of the picture-frame. 



3o6 



INDOOR PASTIMES 



Gvide- 



Guide- 
Wire 



The Drop-curtain should be made of white muslin, and 
measure in width several inches wider than the opening 
in the picture-frame. Hem the two side edges of the 
cloth, and sew brass rings on to them two inches apart. 
Then tack the top and bottom to strips of wood. A 

scene may be 
painted upon this 
curtain, but you 
will find the re- 
sult probably more 
successful if you 
paste a picture of 
some sort upon 
the cloth, as sug- 
gested in the 
illustration of the 
completed theatre. 
In Fig. 318 we 
have a view from 
the stage of the 

Fig. 318. — View of Curtain from Stage. arrang^ement bv 

which the curtain is raised and lowered. Two heavy 
wires should be slipped through the rings on the curtain, 
and their ends fastened to four screw-eyes placed in 
the uprights at /, A^, Z, and M. These form the curtain 
guides. Bore two holes in uprights A and B above 
the picture-frame, and run a broom-stick through them 
for a roller, after which make a crank similar to that 




i 



A MINIATURE THEATRE 



307 





shown in Fig. 319 and fasten it to one end. Place two 

screw-eyes in the crosspiece at A^ and O (Fig. 318) and 

shp two cords through them, tying one 

end of each to the top of the curtain r-^p 

and the other end to the roller. By ^ 

turning the crank the string will now 

wind around the roller and raise the 

curtain. It will be necessary to screw 

a button on to upright A at P, as 

shown in Fig. 319, to lock the crank 

when the curtain is raised. We often ^^^- 319— Crank for 

Curtain Pole. 

had two and three drop-curtains upon 

our miniature theatres, which made it necessary to have 

additional rollers and guide-wires. 

The greatest precautions should be taken 
In lighting the Theatre, to have all wood surround- 
ing lights covered with tin, and not to use candles or 

matches around 
inflammable sub- 
stances. Figure 
320 shows a 
" satisfactory ar- 
rangement of 

The Footlights. — A piece of tin the length of the 
picture-fram^e and ten inches wide should be procured 
for these and bent into the shape shown in the illustra- 
tion. Drive tacks through the bottom of the tin about 
two inches apart, and stick a short candle upon each. 




Fig. 320. — The Footlights. 



3o8 



INDOOR PASTIMES 



^Pipe- 
straps 



■*«— Screweye. 



iltzJi 



■Cord 



Z' 



TPoLe 



^^Wooden 
Braces 



Fig. 321. 




Fig. 324. 



Ptpe-- 
Straps' 




Fig. 322. Fig. 323. 

Details of Floodlights. 

Then fasten the tin below the picture- 
frame as shown in the drawing of the 
completed theatre, and paint it black 
upon the outside. 

Floodlights, which are used to throw 
light from the wings on to the stage, 
may be made as shown in Figs. 321, 
322, 323, and 324. The case for the 
lieht is made in the same manner as 
the dark-room lantern, described in 
Chapter XI, and illustrated by Figs. 176 
D. and 177, except that the door is placed 
in the side instead of the back and no 



glass or paper is fastened over the front opening (see 
Figs. 322 and 323). Make the opening four by five 
inches, and fasten two grooves, formed by nailing two 



A MINIATURE THEATRE 309 

strips of wood together, as shown in Fig. 324, above and 
below it, in which to slide glass plates for the purpose 
of throwing 

Colored Lights upon a scene. The slides consist of 
old four-by-iive camera plates with colored tissue-paper 
pasted upon them, and are operated in the same manner 
as magic-lantern slides. The light should be mounted 
upon a standard, such as is shown in Fig. 321, consisting 
of a seven-foot pole fastened at the lower end to a board 
and braced with triangular blocks, as shown in the illus- 
tration. It should be so attached to the pole that it can 
be adjusted to any desired height, and to attain this two 
pipe-straps should be fastened to the back of the box, as 
show^n in Fig. 322. First nail two vertical strips in 
place as at A and B in the drawing, and to these screw 
the two iron pipe-straps. When the straps have been 
attached, slip the end of the pole through them, and 
place a screw-eye in the box, another in the pole 
near its upper end, and a nail in the side of the box. 
Then attach a cord to the screw-eye in the box, and, 
after running it through the screw-eye near the top 
of the pole, twist it several times around the nail in the 
side of the box, which will hold the box in that position. 
One of these lights should be made for each side of the 
stage. In addition to them, you may have occasion to use 

Spotlights to throw more light upon one portion of a 
scene than another. Bicycle lamps will be found handy 
for this purpose. 



3 TO INDOOR PASTIMES 

If your house is wired for electricity, several miniature 
incandescent lamps can be procured for the footlights, 
while larger lamps can be used for all the other necessary 
lighting. 

As the work of making scenery, properties, and 
mechanical effects is not in the same line as the con- 
struction of the stage and its framework, it has been 
treated in the fpllowing chapter. 

Before setting up the theatre for a performance, it is 
well to spread a large cloth over the carpet, to catch any- 
thing that may drop from the stage. Then, with all the 
framework fastened together, hang draperies on each side 
and above and below the proscenium arch, as shown in 
chapter heading. This will conceal everything but the 
proscenium opening. 

Admission Tickets and programmes should, of course, 
be printed with a printing-press if you have one ; other- 
wise with rubber stamps. 




CHAPTER XXIV 

SCENERY, PROPERTIES, AND 
MECHANICAL EFFECTS 




Scenery for a miniature theatre will be made in 
much the same manner as the small drops and wings a 
scenic artist prepares of each scene of a play, before he 
commences work upon the large canvasses. Any handy 
boy will find it an easy matter to prepare his scenery, as 
it does not require a knowledge of drawing so much as 
it does the knack of copying scenes from pictures, and 
the proper placing of the various wings and drops. 
Several simple suggestions for w^ater, field, street, and 
interior scenes, with sketches of the drops and wings 
necessary to complete them, have been placed on the 
following pages of this chapter with a view to help- 
ing you with your first attempts at making scenery. By 
the time you have made some of these you will have had 
enough practice in the work to devise other designs and 
work up the details more elaborately. With a little shift- 
ing of drops and wings, or substituting one for another, 
the appearance of the scene can be sufficiently changed 
to make it as good as an entirely new setting. Several 
examples of this will be found among the illustrations. 

3" 



312 



INDOOR PASTIMES 



For materials, you will require some large pieces of 
paper, several sheets of cardboard, a box of colored 
chalks, a pair of shears, and a pot of paste — add to this 
a bunch of laths with which to make the frames, and 
some nails, screws, and tacks for fastenings. The back 
of wall-paper presents an excellent surface for chalks, 




Fig. 325. — Drop for Ocean Scene. 

and several rolls will cost you but a few cents, as you 
can purchase old-style patterns. Suit and shoe boxes 
will furnish the necessary cardboard. 

The size and proportion of the scenery will depend 
entirely upon those of the proscenium, and as these are 
governed by the size of the picture frame you procure, 
no attempt will be made to give you the dimensions of 



SCENERY, PROPERTIES, AND MECHANICAL EFFECTS 313 

wings and drops ; but you will get a good idea as to 
their proper proportion from the illustrations shown of 
the scenes set up, as the line of the proscenium opening 
is dotted upon them. In the full-page illustration of the 
completed theatre preceding Chapter XXIII is shown 

An Ocean Scene in which the entire depth of the 
stage is used for the setting. Here you will notice the 




Fig. 326. — Drop (^D in Ocean Scene). 



drops have been made to extend beyond the sides and 
top of the proscenium opening, a thing which is nec- 
essary in order that those of your audience sitting close 
to the front of the theatre, or to one side of the centre of 
the stage, will not be able to see through the openings 
between the drops and wings. Figure 325 shows how the 
four drops necessary for this scene should be made. 
First sketch drop A, shading the clouds and waves with 



314 INDOOR PASTIMES 

colored chalks as shown in the drawing of the completed 
theatre. Then cut out the opening in its centre, care- 
fully following the outlines of the clouds. Lay this 
sheet upon another and mark out drop B, with a smaller 
opening in its centre, and then, after coloring and cutting 
it out in the same manner as you did drop A, lay it upon 
a third sheet and mark out drop C, with a still smaller 
opening in its centre (see Fig. 325). Drop D forms 
the background of the scene, and should be made as 
shown in Fig. 326, with a horizontal line separating the 
sky and water. With the exception of a few white caps 
in the foreground, no waves should be shown upon this 
drop. 

If wall-paper is used for the scenery, several widths 
will have to be pasted together for each drop. 

Additional waves should be made out of strips of 
paper and fastened together as shown in Fig. 327, with 



Fig. 327. — Waves for Ocean Scene. 

the crests of the waves of each strip extending a little 
above those of the strip in front. Prepare three sets of 
the waves, and, after pasting one to the bottom of each 
drop, bend out the crests so as to leave a little space 
between each strip. 

These drops should now be tacked to frames made 
out of laths similar to Fig. 328, with the corners nailed 
and braced with diagonal strips. Place a couple of tacks 



SCENERY, PROPERTIES, AND MECHANICAL EFFECTS 315 



in the top of these frames, and to these attach cords. 
The drops should now be hung by means of the cords 
to the tacks in the top strips of the stage framework. 
Space them about as shown in the illustration of the 
completed theatre, 1 , 

. ,. , Cord A 

and so adjust the [ , I 1- 

lengths of the cords 
that, from a point 
equal to where the 
centre of your au- 
dience will be lo- 
cated, the horizon 
lines of your drops 
will appear on a line 
w4th one another. 

Then having found ^^^- 328. - Frames for Drops. 

the proper lengths of the cords, make loops in them so 
the drops can be quickly hung in place without further 
adjustment. 

In the foreground of the ocean scene a stone wall has 
been shown, which should be made upon a strip of card- 




FiG. 329. — Rocks for a Seashore Scene. 

board, with the joints of the stones marked off with gray 
paint. This strip should be set against the bottom of 
the front drop. To change this setting into 

A Mid-ocean Scene, it is only necessary to substitute a 



3i6 



INDOOR PASTIMES 



strip of waves similar to Fig. 327 in place of the stone 
wall ; and 

A Seashore Scene can be had by making a strip of 
rocks similar to Fig. 329 to set against the front drop, 




Fig. 331. — Drop {G in Field and Blockhouse Scene). 

and covering the foreground with sand to form the 
beach. 

A Field Scene should be set up as shown in Fig. 330. 
Make the background drop G similar to Fig. 331, tack- 




FiG. 332. — Drop (// in Field, Blockhouse, and Street Scene). 

ing it to a frame as you did the drops of the ocean scene, 
and prepare the foreground drop H similar to Fig. 332, 




Fig. 338. A Blockhouse Scene. 



V:' 



SCENERY, PROPERTIES, AND MECHANICAL EFFECTS 317 

tacking its upper edge to a single lath from which it can 
be hung in position. Draw the leaves upon drop H 
about as shown in the illustration, and in cutting out 




Fig. 333. — Wing. Fence and Foliage Fig. 334. — Wing (/in Field and 
(/in Field Scene). Blockhouse Scene). 

the strip make a few openings between the leaves as 
shown in the drawing. Wings / and / are shown in 
Figs. 333 and 334. These should be drawn upon card- 
board, and then cut out with a sharp knife, with open- 
ings made in places between the leaves and branches. 
Tack the bottom of 

The Trees to small blocks of wood for standards (see 



3i8 



INDOOR PASTIMES 



Fig. 336), and drive brads through the blocks so they 
will stick into the stage floor and prevent the trees from 
toppling over. In setting up this scene, as in the case of 
all others, you will have to shift the pieces until all en- 
trances and exits are hidden by the wings. The places 
can then be marked upon the stage floor. This scene 




Cardboard 
FoLiaQe — . 



Bradj 



Fig. 335. — Wing (A" in Street and 
Blockhouse Scene). 



Fig. 336. — Standard 
for Trees. 



will occupy but the front part of the stage. If a greater 
depth is desired, it will be necessary to prepare addi- 
tional wings, which can be made similar to Figs. 333 
and 334, with possibly a few changes in the form of the 
branches and leaves. Figure 335 shows a tree that can 



SCENERY, PROPERTIES, AND MECHANICAL EFFECTS 319 

be used for the centre of a scene. A little earth scattered 
over the stage floor will give the appearance of ground. 

By using the same background drop, G, and the fore- 
ground drop, Z?^ (Figs. 331 and 332), trees, /and A" (Figs. 
334 and 335), and making a blockhouse and stockade 




ullJiNl^llP 



/YYYV 



/vyx /VVYN 



^ \' r- ; 



EiG. 337. — Blockhouse (Z in Blockhouse Scene), 



similar to L (Fig. 2i2il\ you will have the proper setting 
for 

A Blockhouse Scene, such as is shown in Fig '^^'i^'^. The 
blockhouse should be fastened to a strip of wood in the 
same manner as you fastened the ends of the trees (see 

Fig- ZZ^)' 

For outdoor scenery, and especially forest scenes, the 

writer remembers u sing- 
Pine Boughs for trees and shrubbery. These were cut 

into pieces of the right length for trees, with their ends 



320 INDOOR PASTIMES 

pointed so they would stick into gimlet holes made in 
the laths of the stage floor; and loose pieces were thrown 
in between for shrubbery. Mounds and hills were 
made with moss. This saved the work of making so 
many drops, and, of course, looked a little more realistic 




Fig. 340. — Drop (J/ in Street Scene). 

than paper scenery, but was not as handy to set up, and 
caused longer delays between the scenes. 

Rustic Bridges can easily be constructed with a few 
twigs, as can also rustic seats and fences. A very 
realistic 

Pond or Lake can be represented by placing a piece 
of a mirror upon the stage floor, and banking, sand or 
moss around its edge. 

Figure 339 shows a simple setting for 

A Street Scene. — The background will be made simi- 
lar to Fig. 340, and the wings N and O as shown in 



SCENERY, PROPERTIES, AND MECHANICAL EFFECTS 321 




Figs. 341 and 342, while drop H and wing A" are the 
same as used for the other scenes (see Figs. 332 and 335). 
Wing O, the house upon the right of the 
stage, will be made in one piece, with 
window openings cut in it and covered 
with tissue-paper ruled to represent the 
window-sash (see Fig. 341). Show the 
trim around the openings and also the sid- 
ing upon the building. Then fasten the 
back of the wing to a standard such as .._ . 
used for the trees (see Fig. 336). WingA^, Fig. 341 — wing 

1 ., ,. . . , . . (O in Street Scene). 

or buildmg upon the leit or the stage, 
will require a number of pieces of cardboard to show its 
perspective correctly. Make the front of the building 
as shown in Fig. 342. Then fasten a piece of cardboard 

to edge A for the side, 
three pieces at B, C, and 
D for the roof, and a strip 
across the front at E for 
the porch roof. The pieces 
can be fastened together 
best with strips of linen 
glued to their inside sur- 
faces. The porch roof will 

Fig. 342.-Wing(A^in street Scene). ^^ supported upon four 

posts made out of strips of cardboard as shown in 
Fig. 339. This building will be the village post-office, 
grocery, and hardware store combined, and should 




322 



INDOOR PASTIMES 



have a number of signs to this effect painted upon 
the front. 

To the several outdoor scenes already described, you 
should add a setting of 

An Interior, as you will probably have occasion to use 
one in any play you produce in your miniature theatre. 
Figure 343 shows a simple interior, the size of which 
will, of course, depend upon that of the stage. However, 




Fig. 343. — A Simple Interior Scene. . 

it should not be very deep. Figure 344 shows the pat- 
tern by which to cut the five pieces of cardboard, of 
which the walls are made. The edges of these pieces 
should be glued together with strips of linen. Cut the 
door openings at F, G, and H, two window openings at 
/andy, and slots in the tops of B and D at K, Z, M, 
iV, (9, and P, as shown in the drawing. Make the doors 
out of pieces of cardboard, hinging them to the openings 
with linen strips, and draw the window-sash and their 



SCENERY, PROPERTIES, AND MECHANICAL EFFECTS 323 

divisions upon tissue-paper and paste them over the 
openings I d.ndj. Oil the paper if it is not very trans- 
parent, so the audience can see the villain when he passes 
by the windows. Make a wainscoting around the walls 
to the height of the window-sills, ruling the boards with 
a lead pencil, and draw a line across wall C a little below 
the bottom of slots M and N in walls B and D, as shown. 
If you have used white cardboard for the walls, and not 
injured its calendered surface when cutting the openings, 




Fig. 344. — Pattern for Walls of Interior Scene. 



it will have a good plaster appearance. Otherwise, cover 
the cardboard with white or tinted paper. Paint the 
wainscoting and the door and window trimmings brown. 
To set up the room, bend the walls into the shape shown 
in Fig. 343. Then cut three strips of cardboard several 
inches longer than the width of the room and slip them 
into the slots you have cut in the tops of the walls B 
and D (see Q, R, and 6", Fig. 343). 7" is a drop like 6", 
but is suspended in front from the gridiron. These 
strips form the ceiling of the room, and generally have 



324 INDOOR PASTIMES 

beams or mouldings painted across their bottom edges, 
but it will simplify matters to leave them plain, as shown 
in the illustration. The line which you have drawn 
across the rear wall corresponds with these strips. Cut 
a number of illustrations from a magazine for pictures, 
and either hang them upon the walls or paste them to 
the cardboard. Doll furnishings can be used to complete 
the scene. 

There are a great variety of subjects upon which a 
boy can base his plays, but what probably will make 
the most interesting programme and one of the simplest 
to prepare is 

A War Drama. — In this you can picture a number of 
battles after the descriptions you have read in your his- 
tory, or dramatize one of your favorite war stories, bring- 
ing its young heroes before the footlights. This class of 
plays will give you an opportunity to use 

Paper Soldiers for actors. Probably you have a supply 
of these, but if not, you can get them at any toy store. 
They come upon printed sheets ready to be cut out, and 
as they cost only a penny a sheet it pays to buy rather 
than make them. 

Cavalry and infantry of about every nationality, Indi- 
ans in various positions upon horseback and on foot, 
and a large assortment of American soldiers in march- 
ing order and fighting array are now to be found in 
these sheets. For 

Marching Soldiers across the stage, tack their feet to 



SCENERY, PROPERTIES, AND MECHANICAL EFFECTS 325 

a lath as shown in Fig. 345, and then slide the lath 
across the stage, at the same time pushing out one of 
the laths forming the floor. The moving of the laths 
scarcely will be noticeable from the position of your 
audience. 

Separate Standards for soldiers you wish to set about 
the stage should have small strips of cardboard glued 
to their backs and bent out in the same manner as easel- 
backs are made. At least four or five of the soldiers 
should be jointed so they can walk about the stage and 



Fig. 345. — Scheme for Marching Soldiers. 

appear perhaps a little more graceful in their actions than 
their stiff-jointed comrades who are fastened to laths. 
Figure 346 shows 

A Jointed Figure made out of a paper soldier. Suppose 
you have a soldier in some such position as shown in 
Fig. 347. First cut off the legs along the dotted lines 
shown in the illustration, each leg in two pieces (see 
A, B, C, and D, Figs. 347 and 348). Remove also the 
hand projecting beyond the body at E, A small piece of 
cardboard of the same thickness as that upon which the 
soldiers are printed should be glued to the back of C 
and D where those pieces were cut into in cutting off 



326 



INDOOR PASTIMES 



the legs (see /% G, and //", Fig. 348). When this has 
been done, pivot A and B \.o C and D 2ii F and G, and 
then pivot the ends of C and D 2X H and / to the hips 
of the soldier (see Fig. 346). Thread should be used for 
pivoting these pieces together, with knots tied on either 
end. New arms will have to be made, as those printed 

upon the body 
cannot be cut 
out. These are 
made in twp 
pieces similar to 
J and K in Fig. 
348. You will 
find it a simple 
thing to make 
them and paint 
the hands flesh 
color and the 
sleeves to match 
Pivot J io K 2it L and the end of 




Fig. 346. Fig. 347 

Scheme for making a Jointed Figure. 



the rest of the clothes 
K to the shoulder at M. The arm printed upon the side 
of the figure should now be painted so as to blend with 
the color of the coat. The white cardboard glued to the 
joints should also be painted to correspond with the rest 
of the body. You will find this method of making a 
jointed soldier much easier than to attempt to draw, paint, 
and cut out one of your own design. Figures in other 
positions can, of course, be jointed in the same manner. 



SCENERY, PROPERTIES, AND MECHANICAL EFFECTS 327 



The movements of a jointed figure are controlled with 
pieces of silk-thread attached to the hands, feet, and 
head, as shown in Fig. 346. These threads should be 
carried through the top of the stage framework and 
loops made in their ends should slip over the fingers 
of your hands, in which position they can be operated. 
It will take a little practice beforehand to enable you 
to work the threads successfully, so you will not be 
responsible for such laughable performances as making 
him dance while delivering a farewell address, or leave 
the scene through the top of the stage during an exciting 
portion of the play. 

In an interior scene, such as Fig. 343, the jointed 
figures will have to make their entrees and exits 
through the passages between the front walls and 
the proscenium, as the 
operating cords would in- 
terfere with them going 
through the other open- 
ings. The figures which 
pass through the doors 
will have to be tacked to 
the floor laths and shoved 
across the stage. a Tent. 

All the small movable furnishings of a scene are 
known as 

Stage Properties. — These include such pieces as furni- 
ture, boats, carts, and trains. 




4t3^ 



Fig. 350. 



Fig. 349- 



328 



INDOOR PASTIMES 



Tents will be necessary properties for an encamp- 
ment scene. These should be cut out of white paper 
the pattern of Fig. 349, then folded along the dotted 
lines? and edge B pasted over the flap A. The front 
flaps will be left open. Figure 350 shows the tent 
set up. 

An Indian Teepee will also be required for Indian war- 
fare. Follow the pattern shown in Fig. 351, marking 

it off as though it were 
made up of a number of 
skins, and place a few 
figures of decoration upon 
it. Then cut three or 
four short sticks and, after 
crossing their ends as 




Fig. 352. 



Fig. 351. 
A Teepee. 

shown in Fig. 352, fasten the paper covering over them, 
bending flap A along the dotted line, and pasting B 
over it. 

The field scene (Fig. 330) and the blockhouse scene 
(Fig. 338) will be used for the settings of your battle- 
fields. For your miniature sea-fights, the mid-ocean 
scene will be used. 

Battleships should be made out of cardboard as shown 
in Fig. 353, with the masts reenforced at the back with 
strips of wood, and the rigging made with heavy thread. 
It will be well to have a number of pictures from which 
to work in drawing and painting the various ships of 
your fleet. The hull of each ship should be curved as 



SCENERY, PROPERTIES, AND MECHANICAL EFFECTS 329 




Fig. 353. — A Battleship. 



shown in the illustration, and mounted upon a cardboard 
rocker. Make a number of slashes along the curved 
edge of the hull, and bend out the little flaps alternately, 
first to one side and then to the other (see A in draw- 
ing), after which 
glue them to the 
rocker. Attach 
a cord at B, with 
which to pull 
the ship across 
the stage, and 
another cord at 
C, with which to 
guide the stern. The hull will, of course, run between 
the strips of waves, so as to be half concealed by 
them. A person cannot imagine how realistic these 
little battleships appear when tossing about upon the 
toy waves, without having seen them in operation. 

Trains and Wagons can be cut out of cardboard and 
moved across the stage by means of laths to which they 
have been attached in the same manner as the paper 
soldiers shown in Fig. 345. Toy wagons, carriages, and 
an automobile such as described in Chapter XXVI, may 
also be used in some scenes. 

Rain, wind, thunder, and such stage sounds, a moon or 
sun-rise, and lightning, as produced on the stage, are 
known as 

Mechanical Effects. — Most of these can easily be 



330 INDOOR PASTIMES 

adapted to your theatre, though the apparatus need not 
be as elaborate as that used by professionals. 

Thunder can be produced by means of a large piece of 
heavy cardboard held by one corner, as shown in the 
chapter heading, and vibrated back and forth. The 
beating of 

Rain upon the outside of a house is imitated with a 
small quantity of dried peas or beans dropped upon the 
head of a drum or into a cardboard box. Every time the 
door is opened during such a storm, the audience should 
hear the whistling of the 

Wind, which is imitated by a few low drawn-out 
whistles. The stage must, of course, be dark for 
producing 

Lightning, in order to get the best effects. The 
flashes can be made by igniting a small amount of flash- 
light powder, placed in a tin can cover. 

The Roar of Cannon and firing of smaller guns can be 
imitated to good effect upon a drum. 









m 


CHAPTER XXV 

MAKING A TOY RAILWAY 




/ 




^-fei^SII 1 1 1 1 ^ 


llH:^-^^] 







It is often thought that a toy railway is beyond a 
boy's ingenuity to construct, whereas, in reahty, it is one 
of the simplest toys he can make. This applies to the 
tracks, stations, and cars of every description, all of which 
can be made with a few strips of wood, some spools, 
nails, cardboard, and a bottle of glue, for materials. If 
you have passed the age of caring for such toys as this, 
you will, no doubt, enjoy the making of Y-^^-^ 

one for your younger brother, or for one 
of your boy relatives. 

Figure 355 shows 
and in running order, 
illustration. 

The Trolley-line, or overhead cable, 
runs around the wheels of two supports, 
one at either end of the track. Prepare 
four pieces of wood the shape and size 
of that shown in Fig. 354 for the uprights 
of these supports, and make two wheels three inches in 
diameter. The wheels may be marked out with a piece 

331 



a railway set up 
As shown in the 




332 



INDOOR PASTIMES 



of string and pencil as shown in Fig. 201, Chapter XV, 
if you haven't a compass. When the wheels have been 
cut out, place them in your bench-vise, one at a time. 




Fig. 355. — The Toy Railway 



and with a rasp make a groove around the edge as 
shown at C, Fig. 356. Bore a three-eighths inch hole 
through each upright at 7% Fig. 354, and another through 

the centre of each wheel. 



1=11 

D 



E 

Weight 



i 



Now fasten two of the 
uprights six inches apart 
upon a block of wood, as 
shown at A and B, Fig. 
356. Whittle a shaft to 
fit loosely in the holes of 
the uprights, and, after 
slipping it into them, fas- 
ten one of the wheels upon 
one end and a small spool upon the other (see C and D 
in Fig. 356). A weight of some sort should be fastened 
to the base, as shown at E, The uprights for the other 



Fig. 356. — Support for Trolley-line. 



MAKING A TOY RAILWAY 



333 



support should be similarly mounted upon another block 
of wood. Fasten the remaining wheel to an axle run 
through the holes in the uprights, and, as it is unneces- 




in Operation. 

sary to have a spool upon the other end of the axle, cut 
it off short and drive a nail through it to prevent it from 
slipping through the holes. Having thus prepared the 
supports, place them as far apart as you wish to extend the 
railway, and run a cord around the two wheels and tie it. 
Then set the supports a little farther apart, if necessary, to 
tighten the cord. Run another cord from spool D to 

A Water-motor, steam engine, or whatever power you 
can get with which to operate the railway. A bicycle 
inverted with the tire removed from its rear wheel has 
been used satisfactorily, as has also a sewing-machine 
with the belt slipped off and the cord from the spool put 
in its place. 

A good substitute for the tin tracks ordinarily sold in 
shops for toy railways will be found in those shown in 
Fig- 357- These 



334 



INDOOR PASTIMES 



Tracks consist of quarter-inch strips mounted upon 
pieces of cardboard. Make a small gimlet-hole in one 
end of each stick, and drive a short finishing nail in the 
opposite end (see Fig. 357). Cut the cardboard strips 



rHAii.. DoweL. 



Fig. 357. — The Tracks. 

the length of the sticks, and tack them to the sticks as 
shown in the illustration. If inch and one-half spools 
are used for the car wheels, the inside gauge of the tracks 
should be an inch and three-quarters. By lapping the 
cardboard strips over the ends of the sticks, and the 
sticks over the ends of the cardboard strips, and placing 
the nail dowels in the ends of the sticks as in the draw- 
ing, a strong track is formed when the pieces ai^ fitted 
together. This may be extended to any desired length 
by adding more sections to it. 

The Cars for this railway will have their trucks con- 
structed alike, and it is a simple matter to transform a 



r 



IZ" 




■e 



-^^ 



1 



-4f 



^: 






D F 

Fig. 358. — A Top View of Car Truck. 

car from one style into another. Figure 358 shows a top 
view of a truck. For the bed of this cut a three-eighths- 



MAKING A TOY RAILWAY 



335 



inch board twelve inches long by two and one-quarter 

inches wide, and, after rounding the ends as shown in the 

drawing, cut a mortise at A and B two and three-eighths 

inches from either end. Procure two 

one and one-half inch spools for wheels, 

and drive a wooden peg through the hole 

in each, cutting off the ends so they 

project a little beyond the hole, as shown 

in Fig. 359. Then bore four holes in 

the edges of the truck-bed with a gimlet 

at C, D, E, and F (see drawing), and, 

after setting the spools in mortises A 

and B, pivot them in place with small finishing nails 

driven into the wooden pegs. These nails should fit 

loosely in the gimlet holes. In order to drive them 

into the exact centres of the spools, it is best to locate 




Fig. 359. — Spool 
Wheels. 



V 



Brais Cit>^ 



^^iK 



7 



rPeg 



Fig. 361, 



Fig. 360. 

these points upon the ends of the pegs before placing 
the spools in the frame. A quarter-inch hole should 
be bored in the top of the truck-bed at G and H 
(Fig. 358) in which to fasten the two uprights /and/ 



336 INDOOR PASTIMES 

(see Fig. 360). Make the uprights four inches long and 
whittle a peg upon the lower ends to fit holes G and H 
(see Fig. 361). Bore a hole with a gimlet in the top of 
each and run a piece of heavy wire from one to the 
other, bending it as shown in Fig. 360. Fasten K be- 
tween / and /, as shown. Place a small brass ring upon 
the wire before you fasten it in place. A small hook 
should be screwed into one end of the truck and a 
screw-eye into the other end for couplings, should you 
wish to hitch two or more cars together. 

A Gondola Car, such as shown in Fig. 362, should have 
its truck made similar to Fig. 358, with the exception 




H.<&»EX.I^.R. 



|. 



Fig. 362.— a Gondola Car. 

that it should be two inches shorter, in order that cigar- 
box strips can be used for the side-pieces. Cut the 
strips an inch and one-half high and fasten them to the 
bed of the car with brads. This car may be used as a 
trailer. 

The car shown in Fig. 360 is a rather crude affair, 
but with a little more work may be transformed into a 
better-looking car — 

A Street Car such as is shown in Figs. 363 and 364 



MAKING A TOY RAILWAY 



337 



being an example of what can be made. The sides, 
ends, and roof of this car are made of cardboard, the 
patterns for the cutting of which are shown on page 339. 
Figure 365 shows a cross section taken through the centre 
of the car. The two side-pieces A should be first pre- 
pared as shown in Fig. 366. With a ruler and lead- 
pencil draw in the windows about as shown in the 
drawing, using double lines to indicate the sash. Then, 
with a sharp knife, cut out the centre of each just inside 





Fig. 363. — Side View. 



Fig. 364. — End View. 



of the inner line. These windows may be left open or 
may be covered on the inside with tissue-paper. If 
tissue-paper is used oil it to make it more transparent. 
When the two sides have been prepared, bend each 
along the dotted lines (see Fig. 366) and tack one to 
each side of your car truck as shown in Fig. 365. When 
properly bent, the distance between the upper part of 
the sides should be two and three-quarters inches. Cut 
the two inner ends of the car the shape of Fig. 367, 
using a compass with a radius of two and one-half inches 



338 INDOOR PASTIMES 

with which to describe the curve at the top. Draw in 
the panels and sash Hnes as you did those upon the 
side-pieces, being careful to get them on the same level, 
and cut out the door and window openings. Fasten 
these end-pieces between the sides with glue, and also 
tack them to the uprights of the car (/ and /, Fig. 360), 
which will come just inside of them. The roof is made 
in two sections {B and C, Fig. 365). For B cut a piece 
of cardboard twelve and one-quarter by three and three- 
quarter inches (Fig. 368), draw the curved end with a 
compass, using the radius shown on the drawing, and 
slit the corners as indicated by the dotted lines. When 
this piece has thus been prepared, remove the wire from 
the top of the truck (see Fig. 360). Bend the cardboard 
over the sides and ends of the car, and lap corners D 
and E over F and G, and H and / over_/ and K, tacking 
them with thread to hold them in place. To fasten this 
part of the roof to the top of the car, cut a number of 
small strips of linen, and glue them to the under side of 
the roof and to the inside face of the sides and ends 
of the car (see Fig. 365). The upper portion of the roof 
C should be made out of a piece of cardboard bent into 
the shape of Fig. 369 and cut at the ends so the upper 
portion of C projects a little beyond its sides. Draw the 
ventilation lights upon the sides of C as shown on the 
drawings, and then fasten the piece upon the top of B 
with strips of linen in the same manner as you fastened 
B in place. C should now have the same curve to its 




Fig. 370 



a 



^Lincr) Strips- 



< Zi: 




_^ 


< 8" ^ > 




~ 


[ A "3? 




^bend Here^ 



Fig. 365. 



BOYVfLLE 



Fig. 366. 



f 



Fig. 2>7Z' 



Fig. 372. 




T 



of© 



J HS 



Fig. 371. pjc ^5^ 

Figs. 365-373- - Details of Toy Street Car. 
339 



340 INDOOR PASTIMES 

top as B. Cut and glue a piece of cardboard in each end 
of C to complete the roof. The shape of this piece is 
shown in Fig. 370. The outer ends of the car should be 
made as shown in Fig. 371 and tacked around the ends 
of the wooden truck platform, and also fastened to the 
under side of the roof with strips of linen. The window 
openings may be cut in the ends, but it will make a 
stronger car if they are simply drawn upon it. Cut four 
cardboard steps similar to Fig. 372 and tack them to 
the sides of the front and rear platforms. When the 
car has been put together, replace the wire in the tops of 
uprights / and / (Fig. 360), running the ends through 
the roof (see Fig. 363). Paint the sides and ends 
of the car yellow with brown trimmings, and paint the 
roof a light gray. Water colors can be used for the pur- 
pose. Letter the name of your car-line upon the sides 
and the number of the car upon each end and side. 
The route should be lettered upon strips of cardboard 
with pins run through them as shown in Fig. 373, these 
strips to stick in the roof of the car (see Figs. 363 
and 364). 

Having seen how the car is made, you will find it a 
simple matter to make designs for 

Other Cars, using the same scheme for the trucks, and 
altering the patterns for the sides, ends, and roof, to suit 
the design. 

Nothing has, as yet, been said about the 

Operation of the Railway, and though Fig. 355 prob- 



MAKING A TOY RAILWAY 



341 



ably shows sufficiently clearly how it is run, a few words 
may be helpful. The car or cars are placed between the 
wooden tracks, and the trolley (or cord attached to the 
ring on top of the car) is tied to the trolley-line as in 
the illustration. Upon starting your engine, water- 
motor, or whatever motive-power you have, the car will 
run from one end of the track to the other. When it 
has reached the support of the trolley-line, it will stop 
long enough for the cord trolley to pass around the 
wooden wheel, and then run in the opposite direction 




Fig. 374. — The Railway Depot. 

until the other support is reached. It will thus be seen 
that the trolley hangs to the upper part of the cable, or 
trolley-line, in running one way, and to the lower part on 
the return run. In changing the direction of the run, 
the ring to which the trolley is attached slides to the 
other end of the car. 

A Station such as is illustrated in Fig. 374 is made 
out of cardboard and mounted upon a seven-eighths-inch 
board large enough to form a railway platform. After 
cutting out the side- and end-pieces, with door and win- 
dow openings placed as shown in the illustration, fasten 



342 INDOOR PASTIMES 

them together with strips of linen glued in the corners. 
Make the roof low and extend it over the platform upon 
each side and over the gable-ends, as shown in the 
illustration. Paint the sides of the depot the regulation 
depot red, and the roof a shingle or slate color. Paint 
the door and window-sash black, letter the name of the 
station upon the gable-ends, and with a ruler and lead- 
pencil rule off the boards upon the sides, and the slate 
or shingles upon the roof. As this is a typical railway 
station, two may be made of the same pattern, one for 
either end of your car line. 




CHAPTER XXVI 

CLOCKWORK AUTOMOBILES 




It is generally easy for a boy to get hold of a set 
of old clockworks, for a discarded clock of some sort is 
almost certain to be found in the household storeroom. 
If the main-spring is intact, it is highly probable that a 
little tinkering and cleaning will be sufficient to put the 
mechanism in working order, at least so that it can be 
used for running small engines, automobiles, and other 
mechanical toys that most interest boys. 

Before taking a set of works apart, it is well to 
examine it carefully and note the positions of the vari- 
ous springs and wheels, so it will be possible to put 
them together again properly should you wish to do so. 
Without taking notice of this, you are likely to have a 
handful of wheels as a result, with which you can do 
nothing except perhaps convert them into tops. 

The adaption of a set of works to 

An Automobile Touring-car is shown in Figs. 375 and 
376, the former showing the little machine completed 
and the latter its frame with the clockworks fastened 
in place. The same scheme as that used for the cars 

343 



344 



INDOOR PASTIMES 



of the toy railway described in the preceding chapter 
will be followed in making 

The Frame of the automobile, as that is about the 
simplest way, and makes a light, easy-running vehicle. 
The bed will be cut of a different pattern, however, as 
will be seen in Fig. 377. Lay out the piece to the 
dimensions shown upon this drawing, and then cut it 
out, making a mortise in each end for the wheels to 
fit in. The spool wheels should be mounted in the 




Fig. 377-— Top View of Wooden Frame. 



same manner as those of the railway cars, for which see 
Fig. 359, Chapter XXV, and the directions upon page 335. 
One end of spool A should be pivoted with a longer 
finishing nail than those used for the other pivots, so 
that when driven in place about half an inch will pro- 
ject beyond the frame. A small silk spool should be 
fastened upon this for a belt- wheel (see B, Fig. 2^^"]). 
The hole in one of these spools is about three-sixteenths 
of an inch in diameter, so, in order to make it fit tightly 
upon the nail, it is necessary to fill in around the nail 




Fig. 375. Thk Cak Completed. 




Fig 376. The Framework. 



CLOCKWORK AUTOMOBILES 345 

with sealing-wax. To do this, turn the wooden frame 
upon its edge and place the spool over the nail, being 
careful to get the nail in the exact centre of the hole. 
Then hold a stick of sealing-wax over the spool, and 
with a lighted match melt the end and allow it to 
drip into the hole. When the hole has been partially 
filled, allow the wax to harden a little, and then press 
it down around the nail with the end of a match, 
being careful not to throw the spool out of centre by 
doing so. The hole should then be filled to the top. 
We are now ready to prepare the clockworks for 
mounting upon the wooden frame. The works shown 
in Fig. 376 are from an alarm clock, but if you have 
a striking clock, or one with works a little different 
from those shown in the illustration, it does not make 
a bit of difference in the scheme for attaching the 
works. The three parts shown in the foreground of 
Fig. 376 must first be removed from the works. These 
will be recognized readily in any clock, as they are 
pivoted close together, and regulate the speed of the 
other wheels. When they have been removed, the main- 
spring will unwind rapidly. The frame of the works 
shown in the illustration is held together with nuts, 
so that in removing the wheels it was necessary to un- 
screw two of them, spring the frame open enough to let 
the wheels drop out, and then replace the nuts again 
in their former positions. If the frame of your clock- 
works is riveted together, the wheels will have to be 



346 INDOOR PASTIMES 

broken out. A small silk spool, such as B (Fig. 2)ll\ 
should be fastened upon the small pivot which originally 
operated the clock's hands, for a belt-wheel. Lay the 
works upon a table with the face-side down, and, after 
centring the hole of the spool upon the pivot, fasten 
it in place with sealing-w^ax in the same manner as 
you attached spool B. 

The works should now be attached to the wooden 
frame. Place them with the striker uppermost, near the 
edofe of the frame, so that the small belt-wheels are in 
line with one another. Then bore a number of gimlet 
holes in the wooden frame and run copper wire through 
them, passing it around the posts of the clock-frame 
and twisting its ends until the works are firmly fastened 
in place. 

A rubber band about an eighth of an inch wide and 
long enough to reach from one belt-wheel to the other 
should be procured for 

The Belt. — This should stretch just enough to cling 
upon the spools, as more than that would cause too 
much friction. 

Before going any further with the construction of the 
automobile 

Test the Machine, to be sure that it is in perfect run- 
ning order. Wind up the main-spring, pressing a finger 
against one of the wheels to hold it in check until 
you are ready to start the machine. When properly 
made, the clockwork automobile should run a distance 




347 



348 INDOOR PASTIMES 

of from twenty to twenty-five feet upon a wooden floor, 
while about three-quarters of that distance should be 
covered upon a floor with a fairly smooth carpet. 

The Cardboard Sides and other details of the auto- 
mobile should now be made. The pattern for these 
have been so shown in Figs. 37S-;^8^ that they can 
easily be laid out to the proper shape and size by 
means of the process of enlarging by squares described 
on page no, Chapter VIII. White 
cardboard should be used upon which 
to draw these pieces, and the thinner it 
is the easier you will find it to work 
with. 

First prepare the two sides, cutting 
them out by the pattern of Fig. T,yS. 
Then glue the bottom edge of each 
side to the edge of the wooden frame, 

HAMMER . . 

ON cuttmg: holes m the left side for the 

Clockworks ^ 

belt-wheels and projecting posts to run 
Fig. 386. through (see Fig. 375 and A, B, C, D, 

and E, Fig. 387). The top to the front of the car 
should now be cut as shown in Fig. 388, the distance 
between the sides being measured to get the piece of 
proper dimensions. Bend the edges as in Fig. 388, 
and glue them to the inner surfaces of the side-pieces 
as shown by the dotted lines in Fig. 387. In the same 
way cut and glue a piece of cardboard between the 
side-pieces at G and H (Fig. -i^?)"]) for the seat-backs. 




CLOCKWORK AUTOMOBILES 



349 



The bent edges of these pieces are shown by dotted 
lines in the illustration. Draw four 

Wheels as shown in Fig. 379, using a compass with 
which to describe the circles, and cut them out with a 




Fig. 387. — Cardboard Side of Automobile. 

sharp knife. You can cut out between the spokes, if 
you wish, or leave them solid. Glue the wheels to the 
cardboard, placing their centres about as located at / 
and /, Fig. 387. Four 

Mud-guards should be cut like Fig. 380, with flaps 
made along one edge. Then bend these guards around 
the tops of the wheels, and, after applying glue to the 
flaps, press them against the cardboard side, holding 
your fingers upon the flaps until the glue has dried 
(see Fig. 375). The guards should be placed a little 
above the tops of the wheels. Cut four 

Lamps like Fig. 381, and glue end K of two upon 
the front of the automobile at L (Fig. 387) and one of 
the other two upon each side at M. These lamps are 



350 



INDOOR PASTIMES 




Fig. 388. 



shown in position in the illustration of the completed 
automobile (Fig. 375). Draw and cut 

The Steering-wheel similarly to Fig. 382, and, after 
pivoting it to the end of a strip of cardboard with a 

pin, as shown In Fig. 389, 
bend the lower end and 
glue it to the under side 
of the cardboard top F at 
N (see Fig. i^i'], also Fig. 
375). Make a 

Horn like Fig. 383, and 
glue it to the steering-wheel 
as shown in Fig. 389. A 
strip of cardboard about the size of that used for the 
upright of the steering-wheel should be cut for 

The Brake, and glued to the inside sur- 
face of the right side of the car at O 

(Fig. 387)- 

The- Chauffeur should now be made. Cut 

his head and body the shape and size of 

Fig. 384, drawing the face upon each side 

with goggles over the eyes. Cut the arms 

In two pieces the shape of P and Q (Fig. 

385), and then pivot P io Q ^,i R and the 

end of Q to the shoulder of the body 

at S, using thread for fastening the pieces 

together. Paint the hat, coat, sleeves, and 
^ > 5 , Fig. 389.— The 

gloves a leather color, and the face flesh steerincr-wheel. 




CLOCKWORK AUTOMOBILES 351 

color. The body should then be fastened to the 
hammer of the clockworks with sealing-wax, as shown 
in Fig. 386, while the left hand should be glued to 
the edge of the steering-wheel and the right to the end 
of the brake (see Fig. 375). By thus attaching the 
body to the end of the hammer, and winding up the 
small spring, the chauffeur will shake violently when 
the auto runs across the floor, showing the vibrations 
of the machine in a greatly exaggerated and amusing 
manner. 

It is now only necessary to 

Paint the Machine to complete it. The photograph 
(Fig. 375) indicates the different colors used. The 
lamps, and top, ends, and sides of the front portion 
of the car should be painted the color of brass, and 
the rest of the sides, with the exception of a strip 
along the bottom and the edge of the arms, should 
be painted vermilion. Paint the inside of the car 
and the edges of the seat-arms tan color, to represent 
leather upholstering. With black paint, or ink, stripe 
off the door and trimmings upon the sides and top of 
the machine, as shown in Figs. 375, 387, and 388. 
Blacken the brake and steering-wheel and the spokes 
and rims of the wheels. Along the bottom of each side 
roughly indicate some machinery with black paint, about 
as it is drawn in Fig. 387. 

When you have tired of your touring-car, you can 
easily convert it into 



352 



INDOOR PASTIMES 



An Automobile Delivery Wagon, such as illustrated in 
Fig. 390. To make this you will require the same 
frame as that used for the touring-car, with the clock- 
works and belt-wheels attached in the same manner. If 
you have made the touring-car, remove the cardboard 

8" 




Fig. 390. — An Automobile Delivery Wagon. 

sides from its wooden frame, separating the cardboard 
from the wood carefully, so you can put the machine 
together again when you wish. If you haven't made 
this automobile, you will find the details for the con- 
struction of the frame in Figs. 376 and ^i^^"], and the 
manner of performing the work described on pages 343 
to 346. 



CLOCKWORK AUTOMOBILES 353 

The Cardboard Sides are much easier to prepare than 
those for the touring-car, as they are straight and re- 
quire but httle cutting. The outHne for these is shown 
in Fig. 390, surrounding the drawing of the completed 
wagon. Lay out one side upon a piece of cardboard, 
using the dimensions given upon the drawing, and then 
place it upon a board and cut it out with your knife. 
Using this as a pattern, place it upon another piece of 
cardboard and run a pencil around its edges, thus 
marking out the second side. In cutting out the latter 
piece, run your knife a little inside of the line in order 
to allow for the increase in size caused by marking it 
out with the first cardboard side. Having prepared the 
two sides, draw panels upon them in some such form 
as shown in the illustration, separating them with three 
lines. Draw a small window, with its top slightly 
arched, near the front edge of each side, and cut an 
opening for it (see illustration). 

Glue the sides to the edges of the truck in the same 
manner as those of the touring-car were done, piercing 
holes for the posts of the clockworks to fit in, and 
openings for the belt-wheels to project through, in the 
left side. Cut a piece of cardboard for the back of 
the wagon, fit it between the sides, and fasten it in place 
by gluing a number of linen strips to it and the sides 
upon the inner or unexposed surfaces. Then cut a 
piece of cardboard for the roof, making it about two 
inches longer than the sides, to give it the proper 



354 INDOOR PASTIMES 

projection over the front of the wagon. Fasten this 
piece in position in the same manner as you fastened 
the back of the wagon. 

Make the floor and footboard for the wagon out of 
a piece of cardboard bent as shown in Fig. 390, and 
fasten it across the top edges of the projecting portions 
of the sides with hnen strips. Cut a strip for a seat, 
and fit it between the sides an inch and one-half above 
the floor. 

The Wheels of an automobile wagon contain fourteen 
spokes, but as you have the pattern for the touring-car 
wheels of twelve spokes, you can just as well use it in 
making the wagon wheels. They should be mounted 
upon the sides of the wagon, a trifle above the bottoms 
of the spool wheels, as shown in the illustration, so 
they will not touch the carpet wdien the machine is 
operated. 

All Other Portions of the wagon should be made of 
the same patterns given for the touring-car, viz. the 
chauffeur (Figs. 384 and 385), the steering-wheel (Figs. 
382 and 389), the brake (Fig. 375), and the lamps 
(Fig. 381). As the legs of the chauffeur will show, it 
will be necessary to cut a pair out of cardboard (the 
drawing shows the shape clearly enough to work by) 
and fasten them to his body. Fasten the chauffeur 
upon the seat and glue his left hand to the steering- 
wheel, placing the latter in front of him, as shown in 
the drawing. Stick the lower end of the cardboard 



CLOCKWORK AUTOMOBILES 355 

upright of the steenng-wheel upon a pin run through 
the wagon floor from the under side. Glue the upper 
end of the brake to the chauffeur's hand and the lower 
end to the side of the wagon. 

Paint the Wagon with water colors, making the sides, 
end, and roof olive green, the steering-wheel, brake, and 
spokes of wheels black, and the lamps yellow or the 
color of brass. In painting the sides show the battery 
compartments upon them below what would properly be 
the bottom of the wagon (see illustration). Leave the 
cardboard white below this box, as it represents no por- 
tion of the machine, but is necessarily brought down 
so far to conceal the wooden frame. It will give the 
machine a more finished appearance if, after painting, 
you go over it with black paint and a fine brush and 
stripe the panels upon the sides, following the lines 
which you drew upon them with a pencil. Letter the 
word " Delivery " upon the centre panel of each side, 
and the firm name in the small panel between the lamp 
and window. 

By attaching a set of clockworks in the same manner 
as described for the automobiles, you can make 

A Clockwork Railway, constructing the cars similarly 
to the street car shown in Fig. 363, Chapter XXV, and 
using the schemes in the same chapter for the tracks 
and depots. 




CHAPTER XXVII 

WORK TO DO WITH A KNIFE 




A NUMBER of years ago a friend of the writer paid a 
visit to a large penitentiary where the prisoners were 
engaged in the manufacture of boots and shoes. Among 
the workers he became particularly interested in a small 
German boy who was industriously marking the backs 
of boots with the lot numbers always to be found upon 
these goods. The boy didn't have an ink bottle near 
him, and yet, with what appeared to be a wooden stick, 
was marking the numbers in ink. A closer inspection 
disclosed the fact that the pointed stick held by the lad 
was nothing more or less than 

A Home-made Fountain Pen. — Upon seeing that the 
visitor was struck with the novelty of the affair, the 
superintendent presented him with one of the pens and 
told him of its origin. The pen was the invention of a 
forger who was placed in this department of the prison, 
and when its good qualities were seen it was very quickly 
adopted by all of the prisoners in place of the pointed 
stick and ink-bottle they had been using. 

The pen is shown in Fig. 391. It is made out of a 

356 



WORK TO DO WITH A KNIFE 357 

piece of elderberry wood about five inches long, a small 
glass vial, and a piece of sponge. First push out the 
pith of the piece of elderberry wood (this you will find 
easily removed), and then point one end pen-shape, as 
shown in the illustration, and split it back from the point 




Fig. 391. — A Home-made Fountain Pen. 

about an inch in the same manner as a writing pen is 
made. Whittle the other end of the stick so it will fit 
tightly in the neck of the glass vial. This bottle, or 
reservoir, should be filled with ink, and a small piece of 
the sponge you have procured should be pushed into 
the hollow of the pen above the point (see illustration), 
as a means of preventing the ink from flowing too freely 
upon the point. 

Although the pen was originally made with a coarse 
point for marking heavy figures, you will find that it can 



t 



4 



Fig. 392. — The Magic Pin-wheel. 

be made to write to a reasonable degree of fineness by 
whittling a fine point upon it. 

The Magic Pin-wheel represented by Fig. 392 can be 
made with a few minutes' work, and is something en- 
tirely new in the line of magic toys. There are prob- 



358 



INDOOR PASTIMES 



ably few persons who will understand this simple yet 
mysterious toy when they see it properly operated, until 
the secret is disclosed to them. As you will see by look- 
ing at the drawing, the pin-wheel consists of nothing 
more than a stick notched along one edge, and a thin 
piece of wood about an inch in length fastened through 
its centre to the end of the stick by means of a pin. In 
cutting the notches it is important to make them of the 
same length and depth. Locate the exact centre of the 
chip of wood before pivoting it to the end of the stick, 

and with your 
knife make a 
small hole for 
the pin to run 
through at this 
point. Be care- 
ful to drive the 
pin in straight. 
To Operate 
the pin- wheel, 
hold the stick 
in the left hand 

FIG. 393— How to operate the Pin-wheel. ^^ illustrated in 

Fig. 393, and then, taking a coin in the right hand, rub 
it vigorously across the notches. The vibration pro- 
duced by rubbing the stick causes the small pin-wheel 
to revolve about its pin axis. The funny part of the 
performance is the fact that you can have perfect 




WORK TO DO WITH A KNIFE 359 

control over the wheel, and change the direction of 
its course at will, if you but master one little trick 
performed with the first and second fingers of the right 
hand. In holding the coin between the thumb and first 
finger of the right hand, allow the end of the first finger 
to extend over the top of the stick and bring the second 
finger close to the side of it, as shown in the illustration 
(Fig. 393). To make the wheel revolve from left to 
right, allow the end of the first finger to rub along the 
top edge of the notches ; then, to reverse the direction, 
relieve the pressure of this finger, and press the second 
finger against the other edge of the notches. 

At first you may not be able to make the wheel obey 
your commands, but with a little practice you will find 
it a simple matter to make it change its direction without 
any one noticing how you perform the magical trick. 

A Brass Tack driven into the stick a little below the 
notches, about the point where the thumb of your left 
hand will strike, will add to the mystic appearance of 
the pin-wheel. A person invariably notices this the first 
thing when he sees you operate the wheel (you can make 
it a point to press your left thumb against the tack), and 
thinks he has solved the trick. But when you let him 
have the toy, he will soon find out that all his pressing 
and pulling upon the tack will have no effect upon the 
wheel, and beg you to "put him on " to the trick. 

A Wooden Chain and Rattle has long been one of the 
most interesting pieces of work a boy can make with his 



360 



INDOOR PASTIMES 



jack-knife, and, inasmuch as the making of one requires 
careful cutting, the exercise is a good test of a boy's 
skill with this handy tool. 

In making the first chain and rattle, you had better 
use a pine block, as hard wood is not so easy for a be- 



-H 



f 




M 



WW 




/ 



Fig. 394. Fig. 395. Fig. 396. 

Details of a Wooden Chain and Rattle. 



ginner to handle. Therefore, for a first attempt, select 
a piece of sound pine free from blemishes, and plane it 
down to the dimensions, seventeen inches long, twr 
inches wide, and two inches thick. With a lead-pencil 
mark off ten divisions one inch apart, running the lines 



WORK TO DO WITH A KNIFE 361 

around the four sides of the block (see Fig. 394). Then 
draw two lines lengthwise on each side of the block, as 
shown at AB and CD, making them one-half inch apart 
and three-quarters of an inch from each edge. With a 
chisel, cut out the four corners of the block down to the 
tenth line, as represented by the shading in Fig. 394. 

The Chain is to be cut out of the remaining core, one 
link out of every two divisions. Commencing at the 
top of the block, remove the shaded portions T and U 
(Fig. 395), as those would form only half links; then 
notch out the shaded corners marked X in the drawing, 
and gradually cut the core into circular links. Having 
finished this operation, draw a circle inside of each link, 
and cut out the wood inside of it. Round the edges 
of the links as shown in the drawing of the finished 
chain (Fig. 396). 

Your success in making a good chain will depend 
largely upon a good, sharp knife and careful cutting. 
With a dull knife you are almost certain to split the 
links when separating one from another. 

The Rattle is to be made from the lower portion of the 
block. This part of the figure is more difficult to cut 
than the chain. First draw the two lines marked HI 
and JK in Fig. 394 one-half inch from the edges ; then 
draw the cross lines LM, NO, PQ, and RS, as shown 
ia the illustration. These lines should be similarly 
drawn upon the other three sides of the block. Remove 
the wood from the spaces shaded in the drawing, and 



362 INDOOR PASTIMES 

you will then have left a centre solid block from which to 
cut the ball. Gently round the corners of this, and then 
gradually separate it from the surrounding framework. 
When this has been accomplished, the centre block will 
slip up and down. Now continue cutting the block 
until it is a perfect round ball, but be careful not to make 
it small enough to fall out of the frame, for that would 
spoil the entire piece of work. 

After completing the cutting, sand-paper the links 
and rattle until they are perfectly smooth. Then oil 
the wood or give it a coat of varnish. 




CHAPTER XXVIII 

CORK TOYS 




It Is surprising the number of small toys that can be 
made out of corks of different shapes and sizes with the 
aid of glue, pins, burnt matches, worsted, and cardboard. 
Even though a boy has passed the kindergarten age, 
he will find this work entertaining for days when the 
weather is disagreeable without ; and though he may 
not care to play with them himself, his work will not 
have been wasted, for a younger brother will surely be 
glad 'to have some cork animals and birds to add to his 
menagerie, and a sister no less delighted with a small 
log-cabin and set of cork furniture. 

Flat and tapered corks can probably be found about 
the house on old jars and bottles, while the straight 
variety can be procured at any drug-store. In buying 
the latter ask for No. 9, inch and one-half, straight, com- 
mon corks, half a gross of which will cost about twenty- 
five cents. 

Cork Animals are peculiar-looking beasts of abnormal 
proportions, but all sorts of magical feats are performed 
by toy makers, and such wonders as 

363 



3^4 



INDOOR PASTIMES 




Fig. 397. — The Pig. 



A Pig that can boast of a body as large as that of an 

elephant is commonly found among the so-called Noah's 

ark animals. To make a pig, first draw its head, as in 

the drawing of Fig. 397, 
upon a piece of cardboard, 
and then, after cutting it 
out, select a straight cork 
and make a slit in one 
end of it in which to stick 
the head. A little glue 

applied to the cardboard will hold the head in place. 

The pig's feet consist of four pieces of burnt matches 

pointed at the ends and stuck into the cork as shown 

in Fig. 397, while the tail 

is formed of a piece of 

copper wire curled at one 

end and stuck into the 

cork. When the pig has 

been made, paint its head 

and feet to match its body. 
A Horse requires a cork 

of the same shape as that 

used for the pig. Cut the 

head out of cardboard and 

p^lue it in a slit made in 




Fig. 398. — The Horse. 



the end of the cork (see Fig. 398). Dip the ends of 
four burnt matches in glue and stick them in the cork 
for legs, and fasten a few pieces of worsted in a hole 



CORK TOYS 



365 



made in the end of the cork for the tail. A piece of thread 
should be fastened about the animal's neck for reins. 

After making the horse, take another straight cork for 

The Elephant, and cut 
the head, trunk, ears, and 
tusks out of a piece of 
cardboard as shown in the 
illustration (Fig. 399). Cut 
the tail out of another 
piece of cardboard, and 
elue it in a slit made in 




Fig. 399. — The Elephant. 



the end of the cork. The legs are, of course, larger 
around than those of the horse, and, as matches will be 
too slender, whittle four short wooden pegs for them. 

Point these pegs at one end, and, 
after dipping them in glue, stick 
them into the cork. 

The Giraffe is just as simple to 
make as any of the animals, for 
he is put together in the same 
manner, except that a tapered 
cork is used for the body. The 
head and neck are made in one 
piece of cardboard (see illustra- 
tion), and a piece of worsted forms 
the tail. When you have painted 
the head and neck a tan color to 
Fig. 400. — The Giraffe. match the cork, and marked a 




366 



INDOOR PASTIMES 



number of brown spots upon the body, this tall and 
most graceful of animals will appear very life-like. 

A Porcupine is simple to make out of a long, straight 
cork with toothpicks cut into small pieces for quills, and 
stuck into the cork as close as you can place them. The 
head and other portions of this animal can easily be 
made with the aid of a natural history, and it will be a 
simple matter to devise 

Other Animals upon the same schemes as those just 
described, by consulting the pictures in one of these 

books. It is not neces- 
sary to always copy a real 
animal. Use your inge- 
nuity and see what queer- 
looking creatures you can 
make. Figure 401 gives 
a suggestion for one of 
these, which we will call 

The Korka-bird. — You 
will see by looking at the 
drawing that the two legs 
are made of matches, the 
lower ends of which are 
stuck into a piece of cork for a standard ; and the neck 
consists of a burnt match stuck into the end of the cork 
with its upper end split to receive the cardboard head. 
A small chicken-feather stuck into the top of the head 
(the cardboard being split enough to receive it), two 




Fig. 401. — The Korka-bird. 



CORK TOYS 



367 




others in the back, and a fourth in the end of the cork 
compose all the plumage this wonderful bird can boast 
of, but this lack of feathers is more than made up by 
a beautiful head, neck, body, and legs, which are gilded. 

As a suggestion of what can be made in the way of 
water toys, 

A Duck is shown in Fig. 402. The body for this con- 
sists of a cork split in half, the head is cut out of a piece 
of cigar-box, and a small 
tin keel is fastened to the 
centre of the under side of 
the body. A few chicken 
feathers will form the tail. 
Glue, of course, cannot be 
used upon the duck, as it 
would soften in water, so the pieces composing it will 
have to be fastened together by means of pins. Other 
water toys, such as 

Canoes, consisting of a cork split in half, lengthwise, 
with the inside scooped out by means of your knife, are 
made with a few minutes' work, and these can be trans- 
formed into 

Small Sail-boats by sticking a toothpick in the bow 
for a mast and rigging a tiny sail upon it. 

Cork Furniture is not a new idea for toys, but, inas- 
much as many have never heard of them, a few examples 
of what can be made in this line have been introduced 
in this chapter. For 



Fig. 402. — The Duck. 



368 



INDOOR PASTIMES 




A Chair, such as shown in Fig. 403, find a flat cork, 
and stick four pins in one side for legs, and five pins 

fairly close together in the other 
side for the chair-back (see illustra- 
tion). When the pins have been 
properly placed, take some worsted 
and wind it around each of the 
four legs, crossing from one to 
another as shown in the drawing, 
thus forming the chair-rounds. 
Also weave the worsted in and out 
around the pins forming the chair- 
FiG. 403. -Chair. ^^^y. ^g -j^ ^Yie drawing, so that 

all but the heads of the pins are covered when the 
operation is completed. 

The Sofa, illustrated in Fig. 404, is made after the same 
manner. Split a straight cork lengthwise for the seat, 
placing it flat-side up, and 
stick pins around three 
edges of it upon which 
to wind the worsted. 

A Small Tabouret is 
shown in Fig. 405. Select 
a straight cork for the 
base of this, and, after 
seeing that a good sharp Fig. 404. — Sofa. 

edge is upon your knife, slice the cork lengthwise, 
making it hexagonal in shape. Then stick six pins 




CORK TOYS 



369 



in the cork near the upper edge, placing one in each 
of the six edges (see illustration). When this has been 
done, weave worsted upon the pins in the 
same manner as the chair-back was formed. 
A Toy Log-cabin, or slab-hut, as it would 
properly be called, as the building is first 
put up and then covered with corks split 
in half for slabs, is illustrated in Fig. 406. 
A cardboard box should be procured out 
of w^hich to make this little building, the proportion of 
which will determine the shape and size. Turn the 
box bottom side up, and on it construct a gable-roof. 
Cut two pieces of cardboard large enough to make a 




Fig. 405. 
Tabouret. 




Fig. 406. — A Cork Log-cabin. 

good projection over the ends of the building, and fasten 
them to the bottom of the box as shown in the drawing, 
gluing a number of linen strips to the pieces to hold 
them securely in place. Two pieces of cardboard should 
be cut to fit the gable-ends, and glued in place with linen 



370 INDOOR PASTIMES 

strips. Cut windows in each side of the box and a door 
in each end. Having completed the httle cardboard 
cabin, split enough straight corks in half lengthwise to 
cover the walls. Sharpen your knife well before com- 
mencing this work, so the corks will cut evenly and 
without breaking. Begin gluing these half corks along 
the bottom of the walls, fitting them end to end as shown 
in the drawing, and placing one row above another. Fit 
them neatly around the windows and door openings, and 
if they do not space out as evenly as shown in the illus- 
tration, cut some shorter pieces to fill in. The corks 
will quickly adhere to the cardboard if you press your 
finger against each for a second or two after placing 
it in position. 

The roof may be painted to represent boards or 
shingles, and a cork stuck in it as shown in the illustra- 
tion wdll form the chimney. Cover the window openings 
with paper. Tissue-paper will admit more light than 
ordinary writing-paper, so probably will be the better 
material. Hinge a piece of cardboard to the jamb of 
each door opening, using small pieces of linen for hinges. 
Rule a few vertical lines upon the doors to represent the 
boards. All that now remains to be done to complete 
the cabin is the mounting, for which a seven-eighths-inch 
board should be procured. Use linen strips to fasten 
the cabin upon this board, placing them upon the inside 
surfaces of the walls, which can be reached by running 
your hand through the door openings. 




CHAPTER XXIX 

DEFINITIONS OF TERMS AND 
PHRASES 




The terms and phrases used in describing the work included 
in this book have been arranged alphabetically in this chapter, 
together with their definitions. This has been done for the 
purpose of furnishing a boy with a handy reference, with defi- 
nitions in a clear and simple form, covering only such points as 
apply to his particular kind of work. 

Abbreviations 

d stands for ''penny." E.G. i6d stands for sixteenpenny 
nails (see page 36). 

I.e. or i.e. stands for "that is." 

E. G. or e.g. stands for "for example." 

Viz. or viz. stands for "namely, to wit." 

^^ stands for "inch" or "inches." E.G. 2" means two 
inches. 

' stands for "foot" or "feet." E. G. 2' means two feet. 

etc. stands for " and so forth." 

Abutting Surface. — Next or adjoining. 

Animated Animals. — Animals (such as those used in the back- 
yard circus) which are constructed and then given life. In 
the case of the circus animals, the boys who enclose them- 
selves in the bodies furnish the animals with life. 



2,V 



37^ INDOOR PASTIMES 

Bait-stick. — A stick in a trap, upon which the bait is placed. 

It is also known as the trigger. 
Baluster. See Balustrade. 
Balustrade. — A series of small spindles or posts (Balusters), 

to the tops of which a bar (Hand Rail) is attached, placed 

along the sides of stairs and around stair openings. The 

hand rail is supported at either end by a post (Newel Post). 

E. G. See Figs. 71 and 75. Also applied to a solid wall 

built up the sides of a stairway and around the stair openings. 
Batten Door. — A door formed by joining the boards together 

with battens. 
Battens. — Strips of wood, or cleats, fastened across two or 

more boards to hold them together, as in making a cover 

or door. E. G. See Figs. 15, 189, and 194. 
Bevel. — Formed by cutting off the sharp edge of a board or 

any piece of work. E. G. See Fig. 28. 

A tool used for laying out bevels (see Fig. 42). 
Bird's Mouth. — A notch, V-shaped, or the form of a bird's 

mouth, cut in a piece of work. E. G. See Fig. 8. 
Blind-nailing. See page 34. 
Brace. — A strip, board, or heavier piece fastened across two or 

more pieces to strengthen and steady them ; a diagonal strip. 
Bracket. — A support, generally triangular in shape, screwed or 

nailed to a wall or object to hold up such things as shelves 

and cabinets. 
Broom-wire. — The fine wire which is bound around brooms to 

hold the straw to the end of the broom-stick. 
Bull's Eye. — The centre ring of a target. 
Butt-joint. — When the square end of one piece of wood butts 

or sets against another piece, the joint formed is known as 

a butt-joint. The pieces are not cut into as in the case of 

making other joints. 

Casings. — The finishing strips placed around door and window 



DEFINITIONS OF TERMS AND PHRASES 373 

openings. E. G. See Figs. 85, 8S, and 89. They are also 

known as Trim. 
Chair Rail. — A narrow board fastened around the walls of a 

room at a height equal to that of an ordinary chair-back. 
Chamfer. — Formed by cutting off the sharp edge of a board. 

It is much the same as a bevel (see Fig. 28), but the term 

is more often applied to cases where the bevel is stopped, 

instead of running the entire length of the edge, and its 

ends rounded up to meet the square edge of the board. 

This form of chamfer is used for ornamental purposes, and 

is known as a Stop Chamfer, Figure 29 shows a form 

of chamfer used in planing end-wood. 
Cleats. — Strips of wood fastened to others to strengthen them; 

or strips secured to an object for the purpose of supporting 

a shelf or drawers. E. G. See Figs. 15 and 148; also 

descriptions relating to same. 
Clinching Nails. See page 34. 
Corbelled Brick. — Several courses (layers) of brick so laid that 

each projects a little beyond, or comes a little within, the 

course below. E. G. See corbelled chimney for doll-house, 

Fig. 103, Chapter VI. 
Corner Stone. — A stone placed in the corner of a foundation. 
Cornucopiae. — The plural for cornucopia; made by rolling paper 

or other material into the shape of cones or funnels. 
Countersunk. See Screws on page 36. 
Cross-piece. — A piece that crosses another; a piece fastened in 

a horizontal or oblique position, and extended from one 

piece to another. 
Cross Section. See Section. 

Details. — The parts of which a thing consists ; a Detailed Draw- 
ing is usually a working drawing, showing all the parts 
of a piece of work, with dimensions marked upon them. 

Diagonal. — A strip, board, or heavier piece fastened in an 



374 INDOOR PASTIMES 

oblique, or slanted, position — used in bracing (see Bracing 
of Toboggan Platform Framework, Fig. 310); also a line 
drawn obliquely to another line, several lines, or an object. 

Diagonally. — In a diagonal direction. 

Diameter. — The distance equal to a straight line passing through 
the centre of a circle or a circular object, terminated at both 
ends by the circumference, or the curved surface. 

Door Frame. — The wooden frame built in a door opening for 
the door \o swing in. For definition of Jambs, Sill, and 
Head, see Window Frame. 

Door-stops. — Wooden strips nailed around the Jambs and Head 
of a door frame, for the door to swing against, and to make 
a tight joint between the door and frame. 

Dovetail- joint. — A tongue, undercut so as to make it wedge- 
shaped (somewhat the shape of a dove's tail), is prepared 
upon one piece, and a mortise, the shape and size of this 
tongue, is cut in the other piece for it to set into. E. G. See 
Figs. 209 and 210, and text on page 210, Chapter XV. 

Dowelling. — A process of securing together two edges or faces 
of a piece of work with pins of wood or metal. Holes are 
bored in the edges or faces of the pieces, and wooden pegs 
are cut to fit them. These pegs are coated with glue and 
then driven into place. The edges or faces of the pieces 
are also covered with glue, and if the pieces have been 
properly planed so as to fit together perfectly, a tight joint 
will be obtained when the glue has dried. The work 
should be clamped until the glue has dried. E. G. See 
Fig. 54. For nails used as dowels, see Fig. 357. 

Dowels. — The pegs or pins used in dowelHng. 

Dressed. — After lumber has been planed at a mill, it is known 
as ''dressed stuff." A board may be dressed to the proper 
dimensions, that is, prepared either by sawing, planing, 
paring, or scraping. 

Driving Home a Nail. — The act of applying the finishing strokes 



DEFINITIONS OF TERMS AND PHRASES 375 

of a hammer upon the head of a nail in driving it into 
wood (see Driving Nails, page 32). 
Drop. — A piece of scenery hung from the Gridiron above the 
stage. E. G. See Figs. 331, 332, and 340. 

Elevation. — A straight Side or End view of an object. E.G. 

See Fig. 206. 
Em. — A square type. Used as a unit in measuring type. The 

letter " m " in type originally had a square end. 
En. — A type half an " em " in width. 
End-plate. — A timber, such as a two-by-four or two-by-six, placed 

across the tops of the studs in the end of a framework, for 

the roof rafters or the floor joists above to rest upon. 

E. G. See Fig. 184. When placed across the studs in the 

side of a framework it is known as a Side-plate. 
End- wood. — Wood which has been cut across the grain and 

shows the ends of the grain upon its surface. E. G. The 

end of a stick. 
Equidistant. — Equally distant. 

Finishing Nail. — A nail with a small head used on surfaces to 
be exposed, where it is desirable to make as small nail 
holes as possible. The finishing nail is very handy for all 
kinds of small work. 

Fishing. — An operation where two or more pieces are joined 
together, end to end, by means of strips (known as Fish- 
plates) nailed or screwed across the joints. It is also 
known as a Fish-joint, and is a common form of splice. 
E. G. See Fig. 183. 

Flange. — A projecting rim such as the edge of a spool. 

Flush. — • A surface of a board is said to be flush with the 
surface of another when those boards are so placed to- 
gether that the two surfaces are even, or extend along the 
same line or plane. 

Font. — An assortment of type of one size and style, including 



376 INDOOR PASTIMES 

a certain number of each letter in the alphabet (large and 
small), punctuation marks, and such characters as are neces- 
sary in printing. Spaces and Quads are sold separately. 
Foundation. — The base upon which a building rests. Usually 
made of stone, brick, or posts, and placed below the surface 
of the ground. 

Gable-end. — That portion of a wall which extends into the 

angle formed by a gable or gambrel roof. E. G. See 

Figs. 64, "JJ, 96, and 109. 
Gauge of Tracks. — The distance between the tracks. 
Grease Paint. — A paint for the purpose of making-up the face 

in preparation for a circus or entertainment of some sort. 

Prepared of a composition easily removed, and free from 

injurious substances. 
Gridiron. — The framework above the stage from which the 

scenery drops are suspended. The framework consists of 

a series of parallel bars resembling a gridiron. 
Groove. — A channel or hollow cut in a piece of wood. In a 

tongued-and-grooved board it is the hollow in which the 

tongue fits. 

Halving. See Fig. 267; also description on page 259. This 

joint is also known as a Halved-joint. 
Hand Rail. See Balustrade. 
Hem. — The edge of a piece of cloth doubled over and sewed, 

to strengthen it and prevent the threads from ravelling. 
Hexagonal. — Six-sided. 
Horizontal. — Parallel to the horizon. 
Hornstone. — A variety of quartz having the appearance of 

flint, but more brittle. 

Kerf. — The opening, or narrow slot, made in sawing. 

Latch-pocket. See Spring-catch. 

Lath. — A strip approximately one and one-half inches wide. 



DEFINITIONS OF TERMS AND PHRASES 377 

three-eighths of an inch thick, and four feet long. Nailed 

across the walls and ceiling of a room upon which to place 

plaster. 
Locking-up. — The process of tightening a form of type so as 

to hold it together (see description, page 136). 
Longitudinal Section. See Section. 

Making-up. — Painting the face as a disguise or to show ex- 
pression marks. 

Mitre. — The end of a board is mitred when cut off at an angle 
of forty-five degrees. Although applied to other angles, 
the term mitre is understood to mean a forty-five degree cut, 
unless otherwise stated (see Bench-hook, F'ig. 1 1, and Mitre- 
box, Fig. 12, Chapter I; also descriptions of their use). 

Mitred Try-square. — Used for laying off mitres (see Figs. 38 
and 39, Chapter II). 

Mortise. — A slot or cavity made in a piece of wood to receive 
the end of another piece. E. G. See Figs. 208, 210, 211, 
Chapter XV. Bevelled Mortise. — A mortise with its bot- 
tom or sides bevelled. E. G. See Fig. 10, Chapter I. 

Mould. — Something which serves to give the proper form to an 
object. E. G. The mould for shaping a canvas canoe. 
Fig. 204, Chapter XV. 

Newel Post. See Balustrade. 

Notch. — A hollow cut in anything; a nick; an indentation. 

To Notch. — To cut in small hollows, as to notch a stick. 

E. G. See Fig. 191, Chapter XIV, and Fig. 392, Chapter 

XXVII. 

Obsidian. — A form of lava. 

On Centres. — In spacing studs or strips of any kind, they are 
spoken of as being placed a certain number of inches on 
centres. E. G. Twelve inches on centres means that the 
distance from the centre of one piece to the centre of an- 
other is twelve inches. 



378 INDOOR PASTIMES 

Out of Plumb. — Not vertical ; not perpendicular to the horizon. 
Out of Square. — Askew ; oblique ; not true. 

Parallel. — Lines or objects are parallel to one another when 
they have the same direction, and all corresponding points 
are equidistant from one another. 

Perpendicular. — Vertical; plumb; in an upright position. 

Perspective. — A perspective is a drawing showing an object in 
the form in which it appears to the eye. The lines converge, 
or approach nearer together, as they go away from the eye, 
until they finally meet at a point on the horizon, or a line 
drawn to represent the horizon. E. G. In looking down a 
railway track the telegraph poles and tracks appear to run 
together on the line of the horizon. 

Pica. — The standard of measurement in printing. A name 
given to a size of type which measures one-sixth of an 
inch high (measured from the nicked side to the side 
opposite); and seventy-two ems (see Em) measure one 
foot. 

Pie. — A mixed assortment of type. See page 135, Chap- 
ter IX. 

Pieing Type or Making Pie. — Spilling or mixing up type. 

Pipe-straps. — Iron straps used mostly by pipe-fitters to fasten 
gas-piping in place. E. G. See Figs. 321 and 322. 

Pitch. — The pitch of a board is the degree to which it has been 
tilted. 

Plan. — A drawing showing a view of an object, looking down 
upon it, either on top of it (e. g. see Figs. 205 and 207), 
or with the upper portion sliced off (e.g. see Fig. 190. 
This shows a plan of the log-cabin at a level of the door and 
windows, with the upper portion removed). 

Plank. — Lumber two inches or more in thickness is known as 
planks or planking. Anything of less thickness is known 
as boards. 



DEFINITIONS OF TERMS AND PHRASES 379 

Plumb. — Perpendicular ; vertical ; true. 

An instrument for determining whether or not an object is 
plumb (see Fig. 14, Chapter I). 

Proscenium. — The front portion of a stage. The Proscenium 
Arch is the arch or frame extending around the front of the 
stage of a theatre. 

Pumice Stone. — A porous rock, of extreme lightness, used for 
polishing metals ; for smoothing the surface of wood ; and 
for smoothing the surface of a coat of paint before apply- 
ing a second coat (see Painting of Canvas Canoe, page 214). 

Pyrotechnics. — The art of making fireworks; fireworks; the 
composition and use of fireworks. 

Quad. — An abbreviation for quadrat. A block of type-metal 
lower than the type, used for filling out lines, and for spac- 
ing between lines. A 2-em quad is two "ems" in width, 
and a 3-em quad three "ems " in width. 

Quartz. — Glassy crystals, having the form of a six-sided prism, 
terminated at each end by a pyramid. It is colorless, or 
transparent, when pure, and more or less opaque and in 
various colors when impure. 

Quoins. — The wedges used to tighten or lock-up a form of type. 
E.G. See Figs. 155 and 156. 

Rabbet. — A groove or hollow cut in a piece of work, generally 
for the purpose of joining it with some other material. E. G. 
The sides of the bow and stern pieces of the Canvas Canoe 
described in Chapter XV are rabbeted so the ribbands and 
the edge of the canvas will fit in them (see Figs. 200 and 
202, Chapter XV). 

Radius. — The distance from the centre of a circle to any point 
upon its circumference. It equals one-half of the length 
of the diameter. 

Rasp. — A file with coarse teeth, used for working upon wood. 



38o INDOOR PASTIMES 

Recess. — A niche in a wall ; a space or opening formed by the 
wall setting in a little way. 

Reenforce. — To strengthen; to supply additional strength with 
strips or braces. 

Ridge. — An edge of a roof formed by the meeting of two slop- 
ing surfaces. The top edge of a peaked roof. E. G. See 
Fig. 192, Chapter XIV. 

Ridge-boards. — The boards fastened along the ridge of a roof 
to cover the joint. E. G. See Fig. 192, Chapter XIV. 

Right Angle. — An angle of ninety degrees. At Right An- 
gles. — So as to form a right angle. 

Rubbing Down. — Bringing to a smooth surface by rubbing with 
sand-paper, emery-paper, or pumice stone. 

Rustic. — Made of limbs of trees in their natural form. 

Sagging. — The bending of a body by its own weight, or by a 

load placed upon it. 
Sapling. — A young tree. 
Sash. — The frame which holds the glass of a window. Also 

applied to the frame with the glass in place. 
Scraping. — A piece of glass or the blade removed from a plane 

is used for scraping a piece of work to give it a smoother 

surface than can be obtained by using a plane upon it. 
Section. — A part. 
Section Drawing. — A drawing made of an object, showing it as 

it would look if you were to cut it open or split it in two. 

The portions which would have to be cut through, in such 

an operation, are shaded in a drawing of this kind. E. G. 

See Fig. 218, Chapter XV; Fig. 300, Chapter XXI; and 

Fig. 316, Chapter XXII. 

A Cross Section is a section taken through the short way 

of an object. 

A Longitudinal Section is a section taken through the 

long way of an object. 



DEFINITIONS OF TERMS AND PHRASES 381 

Selvage. — The selvage of cloth or wire-mesh is the edge which 

has been so woven as to prevent ravelUng. 
Semicircle. — Half a circle. 
Set of a Saw's Teeth. See page 21, Chapter II. 
Setting Nails. See page 34, Chapter II. 
Shape it Down. — A term used to imply that the board or piece 

of work shall be gradually cut down until it approaches its 

finished form and size. 
Shooting Stick. — An iron or wooden tool with a head on one 

end, used to lock-up the Quoins in a form of type. E. G. 

See Fig. 155, Chapter IX. 
Sills. — The lowest horizontal timbers in a building of any kind 

on which the structure rests. See also Window Frame. 
Sleepers. — The timbers supporting the lower floor of a building, 

distinguished from joists by being filled in between with 

cinders or concrete. E. G. See Fig. 186, Chapter XIII. 
Slip-knot. — A noose which slips along the line or rope around 

which it is tied. E. G. See Fig. 243, Chapter XVII. 
Slot. — A mortise, or hole, with sides square or nearly so. Made 

by boring several holes, and then connecting and squaring 

them up with a chisel. 
Space. — A thin piece of type-metal, lower than the type, used 

between words, and for spacing out lines. A 3-em space is 

a third of an '* em " in width, a 4-em a quarter of an *' em " 

in width, a 5-em a fifth of an "em," and an 8-em (known 

as a hair space) is an eighth of an " em." 
Spike. — A twentypenny nail (four inches long) and all 

lengths greater. See list of sizes on page 36, Chapter II. 

To Spike a board in place is to fasten it with spikes. 
Spliced. — Two pieces are spliced when joined together, generally 

end to end, in such a way that they are held together and 

act as one piece. E.G. See Fig. 183, Chapter XIII, and 

Fishing. 
Spring-catch. — A small lock, such as shown in Figs. 96, 114, 



382 INDOOR PASTIMES 

and 187. The latch is operated by a small knob, and is 
thrown into position by a small spring. The metal socket 
which is screwed in place for the latch to spring into is 
known as the Latch-pocket. 

Sprint. — A short race run at full speed. 

Squaring Lines. — By squaring lines across a board is meant the 
operation of drawing lines across a board with a try-square, 
the head of the try-square being placed against the tried- 
edge of the board so those lines will be at right angles to 
that tried-edge. E. G. See Fig. 38, Chapter II. 

Staple. — A U-shaped piece of metal, with two sharp points 
which are driven into wood in the same way as a nail. 

Stock. — Material ; supplies. 

The brace which holds the bit for boring ; the block which 
holds the blade of a plane (see Fig. 24, Chapter II); the 
portion of a gun which contains the barrel and trigger. 

Stops. See Door-stops and Window-stops. 

Strap-hinge. — A hinge with long arms, or flaps, which extend 
over a larger area than those of an ordinary hinge, and 
give it the power of withstanding greater strains. 

Studs. — The smaller pieces of timber used in the framework of 
a building, to which the siding is attached, or to which the 
laths are nailed. Known also as Studding. 

Stuff. — In carpenter work this term is applied to the different 
sizes of lumber. E. G. Seven-eighths-inch stuff means 
boards seven-eighths of an inch thick ; two-inch-stuff is 
lumber two inches thick. 

Stunt. — Originally a slang word used to denote a trick or feat 
of some sort. It is now generally recognized as a legiti- 
mate word. 

Swivel. — A fastening with a pivot which allows the object 
attached to it to revolve without twisting the cord, wire, 
or chain, by which that object is suspended. E. G. See 
Fig. 258, Chapter XVIII ; and page 249. 



DEFINITIONS OF TERMS AND PHRASES 383 

Taper. — To make gradually smaller in diameter toward one 
end ; to gradually diminish toward a point. 

Temper. — Steel and iron tools are given their necessary degree 
of hardness by a process of heating and cooling, known as 
Tempering. Too much friction obtained while grinding 
a tool will destroy this temper, making it necessary to re- 
temper it. 

Toe-nailing. See page 33. 

Tongue. — The projecting edge of a tongued-and-grooved board. 
A projecting pin cut on a piece of wood to fit a mortise of 
the same shape cut in another piece of wood. Used in 
making Dovetail-joints. E. G. See Figs. 208 and 209, 
Chapter XV. 

Tongued-and-grooved Boards. — Boards with a groove along one 
edge and a tongue along the opposite edge, so that the 
tongue of one board will fit in the groove of another, thus 
forming a fairly tight joint. These boards are known also 
as Matched Boards. 

Trench. — A ditch ; a long channel. 

Tried-edge of Work. See Testing Work, page 28. 

Trim. — The wooden Casings placed around door and window 
openings (see Figs. 85, S8, and 89, Chapter V). 
To dress a piece of work ; to cut ; to make smooth. 

Turnstile. — A post upon the top of which four horizontal arms 
are pivoted to revolve, so as to allow but one person to 
pass at a time (see Fig. 266, Chapter XIX, and description 
of construction on page 259). 

Two-by-four. — A piece two inches thick by four inches wide 
used for supports and the construction of frameworks. 
Pieces of other dimensions are also known and spoken 
of by their sizes in inches. E. G. Two-by-sixes, two-by- 
eights, and two-by-tens. 

Typographical. — Relating or pertaining to typography. 

Typography. — The art of setting type. 



384 INDOOR PASTIMES 

Undercutting. — As the term implies, the wood is undercut, or 
cut under, thus making it wedge- or V-shaped. E. G. See 
Fig. 209, Chapter XV; also text on page 211. 

Upright. — An upright is a piece of timber which is perpen- 
dicular when in place. 

Valance. — A drapery for a couch or bed. E. G. See Couch in 

illustration of a Boy's Room, Chapter V. 
Vertical. — Perpendicular to the horizon ; upright ; plumb ; 

straight up and down. 

Wainscot. — A lining placed upon the inside walls of a building. 
It was originally made of oak timbers, known as wainscot, 
but the term is now applied to any kind of wood, burlap, 
tapestry, or other material applied in the same manner. 
As a rule, it extends but part way up a wall, starting at 
the floor line. 

Warped. — Twisted out of shape. 

Washer. — A ring placed beneath the head of a bolt to give 
it a broader bearing surface, and thus prevent it from 
cutting into the surface of the piece of work. It is also 
placed under a nut to prevent it from working loose. 

Wedge-shaped. — V-shaped. 

Window Frame. — The wooden frame built in the window open- 
ing for the sash to fit into. The Jambs are the sides of 
this frame, the Sill the bottom piece upon which the Jambs 
rest, and the Head the top piece of the frame. E. G. See 
Figs. 187 and 188, Chapter XIII, and Fig. 193, Chapter 
XIV. 

Window-stops. — Wooden strips nailed around the Jambs, Head, 
and Sill of a window frame to prevent rain and wind from 
entering between the sash and its frame. 

Wing. — A piece of scenery placed at the side of the stage. 
E. G. See Figs. 333, 334, 335, 34i, and 342, Chapter XXIV. 



INDEX 



Advertisements for amateur paper, 152; 
dummy for, 152. 

Advertisers' dummy, 152. 

Advertising signs for circus, 271. 

Amateur journalism, 142. 

Amateur papers, methods of printing, 145 ; 
specimens of, 143, 146, 147, 148, 149, 
and group opposite 142 ; character of, 
148 ; naming of, 149 ; frequency of 
publication of, 149 ; size of page 
of, 150; heading for, 150; choice of 
type for, 150 ; cover for, 15 1 ; bind- 
ing, 151; advertisements for, 152; 
second-class rates for, 152. 

Andirons for doll-house fire-place, 88. 

Animals, animated, 261 ; cork, see Cork 
animals. 

Animated animals, 261. 

Archery, scoring of points in, 235 ; posi- 
tion for shooting in, 239. 

Arrow-heads, 237 ; Indian, 241. 

Arrow-shafts, 237 ; feathering of, 238 ; 
Indian, 240, 

Arrows, shingle, 232. 

Ash-sifter, an, 53. 

Athletic club, organizing an, 254. 

Athletic meets, 254. 

Attendants, circus, 269. 

Automatic-drill, use of an, 31. 

Automobiles, clockwork, 343 ; touring- 
car, 343 ; delivery- wagon, 352. 

B 

Back -saw, use of the, 24. 
Back-yard circus, a, see Circus. 
Back-yard club-house, a, see Club-house. 



Back-yard toboggan-slide, see Toboggan- 
slide. 

Bailey plane, the, 26. 

Ballista, the ancient, 231. 

Balustrades, doll-house, 78, lOO. 

Barrel-hoop target, 234. 

Bath-room as a dark-room, a, 155. 

Batten door, a, for club-house, 184. 

Battles, mimic, with paper soldiers, 276. 

Battleships, cardboard, 328. 

Beams, deck, for canvas canoe, 210. 

Bean-blower, a magazine, 282. 

Bedroom as a dark-room, a, 154. 

Beds, doll-house, 118; pine-bough, 198. 

Bench-hook, how to make a, 9; use of a, 
24, 29. 

Bench-screw, iron and wooden, 5. 

Bench-stops, 7. 

Bench-vise, how to make the, 5. 

Bevel, how to use the, 45. 

Bevelling, 30. 

Bilge-keels for canvas canoe, 215. 

Binding of amateur papers, 151. 

" Bird's mouth " cut, 8. 

Bits, a rack for, 16; use of, 31. 

Bit-stock, use of, 31 ; selection of, 31, 

Blacking-case, a, 68. 

Blind-nailing, 34. 

Blockhouse scene, a, 319. 

Book-shelves, 67. 

Boring, 30. 

Bow and arrow, the, 236. 

Bow, length of, 236 ; the Indian's, 240. 

Bow piece for canvas canoe, 204, 

Bow-string, the, 237. 

Box trap, the, 221. 

Boy about the house, the, 47. 

Boy's dark-room, a, 153. 



385 



386 



INDEX 



Boy's printing-shop, a, 126. 
Boy's room, suggestions for a, 57 ; suit- 
able furnishings for a, 57. 
Boy's workshop, a, 3, 
Braces, deck, for canvas canoe, 211. 
Bread-board, how to make a, 54. 
Broom and dust-pan rack, a handy, 50. 
Bullets, cardboard, 233, 
Bunks for log-cabin, 198. 
Butt-joint, a, 59. 
Button-locks for club-house, 184. 



Cabinet, a tool-, 14; a special tool-, 16; 
a curio-, 65. 

Cabin, log-, see Log-cabin. 

Cages for side show, 260. 

Calking cracks, 184. 

Camera, profitable work with a, 153. 

Camping, pointers for, 199; utensils for, 
199; other necessary articles for, 199; 
provisions for, 200. 

Camp-table, a, 199. 

Cannon, danger of store, 273 ; a fire- 
cracker, 273 ; another toy, 276. 

Canoe, how to build a canvas, 201 ; ma- 
terials for, 202 ; putting together 
framework of, 207; canvas covering 
for framework of, 212; painting of, 
214. 

Canvas canoe, see Canoe. 

Canvas covering for canoe, 212. 

Car for toy railway, a simple, 334 ; a gon- 
dola, 336 ; a street, 336 ; other cars, 
340. 

Carpenter's carrying-box, a, 17. 

Carpenter's horses, 9. 

Carpenter work, advantages of under- 
standing, 3. 

Carpets for doll-house, 106. 

Carrying-box, a carpenter's, 17. 

Case, a blacking-, 68 ; upper and lower 
type-, 129; scheme for laying type-, 
129; the Yankee job-, 130; a nega- 
tive-, 167. 

Castors for doll-house, 84. 



Catapult, the ancient, 229. 

Catch, spring-, for doll-house, 98 ; for sta- 
ble, 102; for club-house, 183. 

Chain and rattle, a wooden, 359. 

Chairs, miniature mission, 113. 

Chamfering, 30. 

Chariot, a circus, 270. 

Chase, the type, 136. 

Chemistry Nezvs, the, 143, 146. 

Chimney, doll-house, 85, 94 ; log-cabin, 
192. 

Chisels, racks for, 16 ; forms of, 28 ; how 
to use the firmer-, 28 ; framing-, 
29 ; paring with, 29 ; grinding of, 
38. 

Cigar-boxes, preparation of, 1 10. 

Cigar-box furniture, see Furniture. 

Circus, a back-yard, 255 ; the ancient 
Roman, 255 ; the modern, 255 ; how 
several boys gave a, 256 ; preparing a 
back-yard for a, 256 ; ideas for per- 
formance of, 256 ; parades, 271. 

Classifying negatives, 165 ; manila enve- 
lopes for, 165. 

Clinching nails, 34. 

Clock, a miniature grandfather's, 1 1 7. 

Clockwork automobiles, 343. 

Clockwork railway, 355. 

Clockwork tick-tack, a, 286. 

Clothes, workshop, 18; hooks for work- 
shop, 19. 

Clothes-line reel, a handy, 48. 

Clown, suit for, 268 ; stunts for, 269 ; 
slapper for the, 269. 

Club, organizing an athletic, 254. 

Club-house, a back-yard, 175; drawing 
plan of, 178 ; staking out, 179 ; mate- 
rial for, 178. 

Coaming for cock-pit, 214. 

Cock-pit, 212; coaming for, 214. 

Colored hghts for miniature theatre, 309. 

Compass-saw, use of the, 21. 

Composing-rule, a, 134 ; how to use a, 135. 

Composing-stick, how to use the, 134. 

Composing type, 134. 

Coop trap, the, 224. 



INDEX 



387 



Cork animals, 363 ; a pig, 364 ; a horse, 
364 ; the elephant, 365 ; the giraffe, 
365 ; a porcupine, 366 ; other animals, 
366. 

Cork toys, 363 ; animals, 363 ; the korka- 
bird, 366 ; a duck, 367 ; boats, 367 ; 
furniture, 367 ; a toy log-cabin, 369. 

Corner, how to tit up a cosey-, 58. 

Cosey-corner, how to fit up a, 58 ; a doll- 
house, 107. 

Couch, a, 63 ; covering of, 64. 

Countersink, use of the, 37. 

Cracks, calking, 184. 

Cross-bar for jump standards, 250. 

Cross-bow, the ancient, 231 ; new idea 
for a, 231. 

Cross-cut saw, use of the, 21. 

Cupboard, provision, 197. 

Curio-cabinet, a, 65 ; finishing of, 67 ; 
catalogue for, 67. 

Curtain, drop-, 306. 

Curtains for doll-house, 106. 

Curves, drawing, 204. 

D 

Dark-lantern, a home-made, 163. 

Dark-room, a boy's, 153 ; a bedroom as a, 
154; a bath-room as a, 155 ; another 
scheme for a, 156. 

Dead fall trap, the, 222. 

Deck beams for canvas canoe, 210. 

Deck braces for canvas canoe, 211. 

Definitions of terms and phrases, 371. 

Delivery-wagon, a clockwork automobile, 
352 ; frame for, 352 ; cardboard sides 
for, 353 ; the wheels, 354 ; other por- 
tions of, 354 ; painting, 355. 

Desk, how to make a writing-, 59 ; another 
style of, 62 ; finishing of, 61. 

Disappearing rope, the, 290. 

Distribution of type, 137. 

Divide a board, to, 45. 

Doll furniture, 109, 

Doll-house, how to make a, 71 ; the store, 
71 ; painting the, 90 ; another style of, 
91 ; furnishing the, 105. 



Door, batten, for club-house, 184; log- 
cabin, 194. 

Doors, doll-house, 80, 84 ; trim for, 84 ; 
stable, 104. 

Dovvelling, 60. 

Drawing, parallel lines, 43 ; enlarging by 
squares, iio; curves, 204. 

Draw-knife, use of a, 30 ; how to grind 
the, 39. 

Dresser, a doll's, 120; a cigar-box, 124. 

Drill, an automatic-, 31. 

Driving nails, 32. 

Drop-curtain, 306. 

Drops for miniature theatre, 316, 320. 

Drying-rack, a, 161 ; another scheme for 
a, 161. 

Duck, a cork, 367. 

Dummy, the advertisers', 152. 

Dust-pan and broom rack, a handy, 50. 



Elastic sling, an, 234. 

Elephant, a circus, 261 ; tricks for the, 
269 ; a cork, 365. 

Elevator, a doll-house, 94 ; shaft for, 92 ; 
car of, 96 ; guide-wires for, 96 ; pul- 
leys, chain, and weight for, 97. 

Enlarging by squares, no. 

Enterprise, a winter, 169. 

Equipment of workshop, 4 ; of printing- 
shop, 128 ; of dark-room, 154. 



Feathering arrow-shafts, 238. 
Feed-hoist for stable, 104. 
Feed-troughs for stable, 103. 
Field scene, a, 316. 
Figure-four trap, the, 219. 
Filter for dark-room tank, 158. 
Fire-cracker cannon, a, 273. 
Fire-cracker mortar, a, 275. 
Fire-crackers, firing, from kites, 278. 
Fire-place, doll-house, 86 ; log-cabin, 190, 
192. 



388 



INDEX 



Fireworks, danger and cost of making, 
272 ; harmless and inexpensive, 273. 

Firing Roman-candles from kites, 277 ; 
fire-crackers from kites, 278 ; nigger- 
chasers with cross-bow, 278. 

Firmer-chisels, use of, 28. 

Fishing studs, 178. 

Fish-plates, 178. 

Floodlights, 308. 

Floor, back-yard clubhouse, l8l ; mud, 
for log-cabin, 193. 

Floors, doll-house, 74, 76, 91 ; finishing 
of hardwood, 106. 

Fly-killer, a simple, 51 ; use of the, 52. 

Folding-bed, a cigar-box, 123. 

Footlights, 307. 

Fore-plane, use of the, 25. 

Form, locking up a, 136 ; overlaying the, 
138 ; underlaying the, 138. 

Fountain pen, a home-made, 356. 

Fourth of July, suggestions for, 272 ; the 
first, 272. 

Frames for scenery drops, 314. 

Frames, picture-, for a boy's room, 59. 

Framing-chisels, use of, 29. 

Franklin, Benjamin, 142. 

Furniture, cork, 367 ; a chair, 368 ; the 
sofa, 368 ; a tabouret, 368. 

Furniture, mission, 109; chairs, 113; 
settee, 114; tables, 114; another de- 
sign for tables, 115 ; sideboard, 115; 
a mirror, 117; grandfather's clock, 
117; kitchen furniture, 118; beds, 
118; dresser, 120 ; washstand, 121 ; 
finishing of, 121. 

Furniture, suitable for a boy's room, 57; 
selection of doll-house, 107 ; doll-, 
109 ; metal, 109 ; other cigar-box, 
122 ; printer's metal and wooden, 136. 



Gable-ends, the doll-house, 79, 97 ; the 

stable, 102. 
Gable roof for doll-house, 92 ; for stable, 

lOI. 



Galley, a home-made, 135. 

Gambrel roof for doll-house, 79. 

Gauge-pins, 139. 

Gauging with rule and pencil, 43 ; with 

the marking-gauge, 43. 
Gig-saw, use of the, 24. 
Giraffe, a circus, 262 ; looping the hoop 

on a, 269 ; tricks for the, 270 ; a 

cork, 365. 
Goblin-man, the, 286. 
Gondola car, a, 336. 
Gouge, use of the, 30 ; how to grind 

the, 39. 
Grandfather's clock, a miniature, 117. 
Gratz Park Neius, the, 148. 
Grinding, the proper method of, 37. 
Grind-stone, use of the, 37. 
Gun, a shot-, 234. 
Guns, ancient, 229. 
Gunwales for canvas canoe, 208 ; outside, 

215. 
Gymnasium, an outdoor, 243 ; location 

of, 243. 

H 

Halloween, 281 ; ancient superstitions of, 

281 ; origin of, 281. 
Halving, 259. 
Hammer, selection of, 32. 
Handling of tools, the proper, 20. 
Hatchet, paring with a, 32 ; how to grind 

a, 40. 
Hinge-lock, the, 48. 
Hinges, strap-, 184; wooden, 194. 
Hook, how to make a bench-, 9. 
Hooks, hat and coat, 19. 
Hoop, looping the, on a giraffe, 269. 
Horizontal bar, a, 243. 
Horse, the circus wild, 265 ; the cork, 

364. 

Horses, carpenter's, 9. 

House, the boy about the, 47 ; how 
to make a doll-, 71 ; another doll-, 
91 ; a back-yard club-, see Club- 
house. 

Hurdles, 253. 



INDEX 



389 



Ideas for a circus performance, 269. 
Imposing-stone, the, 136. 
Indian, story of a trapped, 227. 
Inking the press, 140. 
Ink-stand and pen-tray, an, 63. 
Interior scene, an, 322. 



Jack-plane, use of the, 25. 
Japanese lanterns, for decorating circus 
tent, 257 ; hung from kite-string, 278. 
Jobbing, 47 ; outtit for, 47. 
Jocko, 267. 

Johnstone, Mary Jane, 176. 
Jointed figures, 325 ; operation of, 327. 
Journalism, amateur, 142. 
Jump standards, a pair of, 249. 
Justifying, 135. 

K 

Keel for canvas canoe, 215 ; bilge-, 215. 
Keelson for canvas canoe, 206. 
Kerf, definition of, 25. 
Kitchen furniture for doll-house, 1 18. 
Kites, firing fireworks from, 277. 
Knife, work to do with a, 356. 
Knives, how to grind, 40. 
Korka-bird, the, 366. 



Ladder, stable hay-loft, 103 ; toboggan- 
shde, 296. 

Lake High School Daily, the, 146. 

Lantern, a home-made dark-, 163. 

Lanterns, Japanese, for circus tent, 257; 
hung from kite-string, 278. 

Latch, wooden, for club-house, 184 ; for 
log-cabin, 195. 

Laying out work, 42 ; tools for, 42. 

Ledger, The, 149. 

Letter, a mysterious, 176. 

Lightning, how to imitate, 330. 

Lock, workshop door, 19 ; a hinge-, 48 ; 
spring-catch for doll-house, 98; spring- 
catch for stable, 102 ; club-house, 183 ; 



button for club-house, 184; for turn- 
stile, 259. 

Locking up a form, 136 ; quoins, shooting- 
stick, and key for, 136. 

Lock-joint, the, 189. 

Log-cabin, how to build a, 186; the 
pioneer, 186; the modern, 186; site 
for, 188; design and size of, 188; 
material for, 188; staking out, 189; 
furnishings for, 197 ; a toy, 369. 

Looping the hoop on a giraffe, 269. 

M 

Magazine bean-blower, a, 282. 

Magic pin-wheel, the, 357. 

Mantel and fire-place, a doll-house, 86. 

Mantel-shelf for log-cabin, 197. 

Mark for broad jumping, 254. 

Marking-gauge, a, 43 ; how to operate a, 

44. 
Materials, receptacles for printing, 140 ; 

cabinet for dark-room, 161, 
Mechanical effects for miniature theatre, 

329. 
Mid-ocean scene, a, 315. 
Mimic battles with paper soldiers, 276. 
Miniature theatre, a, see Theatre. 
Mirror, The, 146, 147. 
Mirror for doll-house, 117. 
Mission furniture, doll, see Furniture. 
Mitre-box, how to make a, 10. 
Monkey, make-up for, 267 ; tricks for, 

270; chariot for, 270. 
Mortar, a fire-cracker, 275. 
Mould for canvas canoe, 207. 
Mysterious letter, a, 176. 

N 
Nail-box, how to make a, 18. 
Nailing, toe-, 2>3 ; blind-, 34. 
Nails, driving, 32 ; withdrawing, T,Z 5 

clinching, 34 ; forms of, 35 ; sizes of, 

36. 
Nail-set, the, 34. 

Negative-case, 167 ; finishing of, 168. 
Nigger-chasers, firing, with cross-bow, 278. 



390 



INDEX 



O 

Ocean scene, an, 313. 

Office, ticket, 257. 

Oil-stone, selection of, 40 ; the Washita, 

40. 
Oily rags and waste, care of, 19, 141. 
Outdoor gymnasium, an, 243. 
Overlaying a form, 138. 



Packing-cases for doll-house, 72, 91. 

Paddle, a single, 217. 

Papering the doll-house, 105. 

Papers, amateur, see Amateur papers. 

Parades, circus, 271. 

Parallel bars, 245. 

Parallel lines, to draw, 43. 

Paring, 29. 

Partitions, doll-house, 74, 91 ; stable stall, 

102. 
Pen, a home-made fountain, 356. 
Penants, college, for cosey-corner, 58. 
Pen-tray, an ink-stand and, 63. 
Picture-frame, a proscenium, 303. 
Picture-frames for a boy's room, 59. 
Pictures, suitable, for a doll-house, 107. 
"Pieing," 135. 
Pig, a cork, 364. 
Pin-wheel, the magic, 3571^ 
Pistol, a toy, 233 ; cardboard bullets for, 

233. 
Plan, drawing, for club-house, 178. 
Plane, use of the jack-, the fore-, and the 

smoothing-, 25 ; the Stanley, 25 ; the 

Bailey, 26 ; printer's, 137. 
Plane-iron, how to grind a, 39 ; how to 

whet a, 41. 
Planes, choice of, 25. 
Planing, position for, 26 ; wood with 

crooked grain, 27 ; end-wood, 27. 
Plate-lifter, a, 165. 
Plate-rack, a, 54 ; staining of, 56. 
Platform for punching-bag, 248. 
Platform for toboggan-slide, 293. 
Plough, a snow, 169. 



Plumb, how to make a, 12 ; how to use a, 

13. 

Points, scoring of, in archery, 235. 

Pole, a vaulting, 251. 

Pond, for miniature theatre, 320. 

Porcupine, a cork, 366. 

Portieres for doll-house, 106. 

Posters for a boy's room, 58. 

Preserving negatives, 165 ; manila en- 
velopes for, i65' 

Press Association, the National Amateur, 
143; the United Amateur, 143; the 
Interstate Amateur, 144 ; the West- 
ern Amateur, 144 ; local amateur, 
144 ; advantages of membership in 
a, 144. 

Presswork, pointers for, 138. 

Printing, 126; neatness in, 140. 

Printing-press, starting with a small, 126 ; 
inking the, 140. 

Printing-shop, a boy's, 126; location of, 
126; the author's, 128; equipment 
of, 128. 

Proofs, striking, 136; correcting, 136; 
disposing of waste, 141. 

Proper handling of tools, the, 20. 

Properties for miniature theatre, 327. 

Proscenium, a picture-frame, 303. 

Provision cupboard, 197. 

Provisions for camping, 200. 

Punching-bag platform, 248. 

Punctures in a canvas canoe, to mend, 
216. 

Purchasing tools, advice about, 13. 



Quiver, 239. 
Quoins, 136. 



R 



Rabbit snare, 225. 

Rack, steel-square, 16 ; a broom and 

dust-pan, 50 ; a plate-, 54 ; a towel-, 

70; type-case, 131 ; a washing-, 159 ; 

a drying-, 161 ; another scheme for a 

drying-, 161. 



INDEX 



391 



Racks, bit and chisel, 16 ; other tool, 16. 

Railing for toboggan-slide, 296. 

Railway, making a toy, 331 ; materials 
for,. 331 ; trolley-line for, 331 ; power 
for operating, ^^2i ; tracks for, 334 ; 
cars for, 334 ; operation of, 340 ; 
station for, 341 ; a clockwork, 355. 

Rain, how to imitate, 330. 

Reel, a clothes-line, 48. 

Reenforcing runners of sled, 299. 

Ribbands for canvas canoe, 208. 

Ridge boards, 192. 

Ridge pieces for canvas canoe, 211. 

Ring for a back-yard circus, 256. 

Ring master, costume for, 268 ; duties of 
the, 270. 

Rip-saw, use of the, 21. 

Roar of cannon, how to imitate, 330. 

Rocks for seashore scene, 315. 

Rollers, the proper care of printing, 140. 

Roman candles, firing, from kites, 277. 

Roman circus, the, 255. 

Roof, the gambrel, 79 ; the gable, 92, 
loi ; tar-paper for back-yard club- 
house, 181 ; log-cabin, 191 ; covering 
of cabin, 192. 

Room, suggestions for a boy's, 57 ; suit- 
able furnishings for a boy's, 57. 

Rope, the disappearing, 290. 

Rope bar for jump standards, 251. 

Ruby lantern for dark-room, a home- 
made, 163. 

Ruby-light, a, 162. 

Rule, a composing, 134. 

Runners for sled, 298 ; reenforcing, 299. 

Running track, a, 253. 

Running water for dark-room, 156. 

Rustic bridges for miniature theatre, 320. 

Rustic seats, 198, 199. 



Sail-boats, toy cork, 367. 
Sand-paper block, a, 12. 
Sash for workshop, 4 ; for back-yard club- 
house, 182; for log-cabin, 194. 



Saw, use of cross-cut, 21 ; use of rip-, 21 ; 
difference in teeth of cross-cut and 
rip-, 21 ; the back-, 24 ; the compass- 
and gig-, 24. 

Sawing, the proper manner of, 22. 

Saws, choice of, 21 ; sharpening of, 41. 

Scene, an ocean, 313; a mid-ocean, 315; 
a seashore, 316; afield, 316; a block- 
house, 319; a street, 320; an inte- 
rior, 322. 

Scenery, material for, 312; frames for, 
314; drops, 316, 320; wings, 317, 



318. 319* 



trees, 317, 318 ; rustic 



bridges, 320; pond or lake, 320. 

Scenery, properties, and mechanical ef- 
fects, 311. 

Scoring of points in archery, 235. 

Scraper, a snow, 1 70. 

Screw, iron and wooden bench-, 5. 

Screw-driver, a desirable, 36. 

Screws, forms of, 36. 

Seashore scene, a, 316. 

Seat, a window-, 65 ; rustic, 198, 199; 
canvas canoe, 216. 

Seats for a back-yard circus, 257. 

Second-class matter, 152. 

Set-piece, a final, 280. 

Settee, a miniature mission, 114. 

Sharpening tools, 37. 

Shelves, workshop, 18; book-, 67. 

Shingle arrows, 232. 

Shingles for log-cabin, 192. 

Shooting in archery, position for, 239. 

Shooting-stick, a printer's, 137. 

Shooting-torch, a, 279. 

Shot-gun, a, 234. 

Shovel, a snow, 171. 

Side-board, a miniature mission, 115. 

Side show, the circus, 260. 

Sieve trap, the, 224. 

Sifter for ashes, 53. 

Signs, advertising, for circus, 271. 

Sink for dark-room, 158. 

Slapper, the clown's, 269. 

Sled, a home-made, 296; iron runners 
for, 298 ; reenforcing runners of, 299. 



392 



INDEX 



Sling, an elastic, 234. 

Smith, collection of Mr. E. H., 142. 

Smoothing-plane, use of the, 25. 

Snare, a rabbit, 225. 

Snow plough, a, 169. 

Snow scraper, a, 170. 

Snow shovel, a, 171. 

Soldiers for miniature theatre, 324 ; 

standards for, 324, 325 ; jointed, 325. 
Specimens of amateur papers, 143, 146, 

147, 148, 149, and group opposite 142. 
Spotlights, 309. 
Spring-board, a, 251. 
Spring-catch, see Catch. 
Sprints, method of starting, 254. 
Stable, how to build a, 100; painting the, 

104. 
Stage, construction of, see Theatre. 
Stairways, doll-house, 76, 98. 
Stall partitions for stable, 102. 
Standards, a pair of jump, 249. 
Stanley plane, the, 25. 
Station for toy railway, 341. 
Steel-square, rack for, 16; laying out 

work with the, 42. 
Steps, front, 78 ; rear, 79. 
Stern piece for canvas canoe, 204. 
Stick, composing-, 134; the shooting-, 137. 
Stops, bench-, 7. 
Street car, a, 336. 
Street scene, a, 320. 
Strop, how to make a, 12 ; how to use a, 

41. 
Stropping, 41. 

Studs, fishing, 178; placing of, for club- 
house, 179. 
Supplies, receptacles for workshop, 18; 

cabinet for dark-room, 161. 
Swivel for punching-bag, a, 249. 



Table, a miniature mission, 114; another 
design of, 115; a camp-, 199. 

Tank, water, for dark-room, 156. 

Target, a barrel-hoop, 234 ; a simpler, 
235- 



Tar-paper for club-house roof, 181. 

Teepee, a paper, 328. 

Tent for back-yard circus, 257; decorat- 
ing, 257. 

Tents, paper, 328. 

Testing work, ways of, 28. 

Theatre, a miniature, 303; framework 
for, 303 ; the gridiron, 305 ; the stage 
floor, 305 ; drop-curtain, 306 ; setting 
up, 310; tickets for, 310; a war 
drama for, 324. 

Thunder, how to imitate, 330. 

Ticket office, 257. 

Tickets for circus, 256 ; for miniature 
theatre, 310. 

Tick-tack, a new style of, 284; a clock- 
work, 286. 

Toboggan-slide, a back-yard, 291 ; location 
of, 291; length of, 293; material for, 

295- 
Toe-nailing, 33. 

Tool-cabinet, a, 14; for special tools, 16. 
Tools, purchasing of, 13 ; list from which 

to select, 14 ; proper handling of, 20 ; 

lending, 20 ; sharpening, 37. 
Torch, a shooting-, 279. 
Touring-car, a clockwork automobile, 343 ; 

frame for, 344 ; belt for, 346 ; testing 

the machine, 346 ; cardboard sides of, 

348 ; wheels for, 349 ; mud-guards for, 

349 ; lamps for, 349 ; steering-wheel 
for, 350; brake for, 350; chauffeur 
for, 350; painting, 351. 

Towel-rack, a, 70, 

Toy guns, targets, and bows and arrows, 

229. 
Toy railway, making a, see Railway. 
Toys, cork, 363. 
Track, a running, 253. 
Tracks for toy railway, 334. 
Trains, cardboard, 329. 
Trap, the figure-four, 219 ; the box, 221 ; 

the dead fall, 222 ; the sieve, 224 ; the 

coop, 224 ; a rabbit snare, 225 ; a 

twitch-up, 226. 
Traps, home-made, 218. 



INDEX 



393 



Trebuchets, ancient, 229. 

Trees, 317, 318 ; standards for, 317 ; pine 

boughs for, 319. 
Tried-edge, the, 28. 

Trimmings, of doll-house, outside, 84 ; in- 
terior, 89 ; stable, 104. 
Trolley-line for toy railway, 331. 
Try-square, testing work with the, 28 ; 

laying out work with the, 42 ; a mitred- 

handle, 45. 
Tumbling-mat, a, 245. 
Turnstile, a, 259 ; lock for, 259. 
Twitch-up, a, 226. 
Tympan, the printing-press, 138. 
Tympan-sheets, 138. 
Type, selection of, 1 29 ; composition of, 

134; pieing, 135; distribution of, 

137 ; washing, 140. 
Type-cases, upper and lower, 129 ; scheme 

for laying, 129 ; the Yankee job, 130 ; 

rack for, 1 31. 
Typesetting, 134. 



U 



Underlaying a form, 138. 
Utensils for camping, 1.99. 



V 

Vaulting, pole for, 251. 
Vise, how to make a, 5. 



W 



Wagons, cardboard, 329. 

Walls, doll-house, 74, 79, 92 ; stable, loi, 

104; club-house, 181. 
Wardrobe, a cigar-box, 125. 



Washing-box, a, 15S ; rack of, 159 : box 

of, 160; how to use the, 161. 
Wash-stand, a doll's, 121. 
Waste and oily rags, care of, 19, 141. 
Water, running, for dark-room, 156 ; filter 

for, 158. 
Water-tank for dark-room, 156, 
Waves for ocean scene, 314. 
Weapons, ancient, 229. 
Whetstone, selection of, 40 ; the Washita, 

40. 
Whetting, the proper way of, 41. 
Wicks, book by Mr. W. S., 188. 
Wild horse, the circus, 265. 
Wild man of Borneo, the, 265, 266. 
Wind, how to imitate, 330. 
Window, for workshop, 4 ; for back-yard 

club-house, 182. 
Windows, doll-house, 80, 92 ; dormer, 80; 

glass for, 82 ; casement, 82 ; divided 

glass for, 84 ; stable, 103 ; log-cabin, 

190, 194. 
Window-seat, a, 65. 
Wings for miniature theatre, 317, 318, 

319, 321. 
Winter enterprise, a, 169; contracting 

work for, 169. 
Withdrawing nails, ^^. 
Wooden chain and rattle, 359. 
Work, laying out, 42. 
Work to do with a knife, 356. 
Work-bench, a solid, 4. 
Workshop, a boy's, 3 ; location of, 4 ; 

clothes for, 18. 
Work-table for dark-room, 155. 
Writing-desk, how to make a, 59 ; another 

style of, 62 ; finishing of, 61. 



Yankee job-case, the, 130. 



s7 






Lb D 'i9 



^ 



i^ri^ 



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